badhairdave

The work around is a patrol/navara BMC with external prop valve. It can be engineered in a road car provided the prop valve is mounted in the engine bay and inaccessible/locked once setup. Not really the information you are after but it is a solution.

Aren't they already offering an HTA 3071 as well? I haven't seen any garret HTA results but the mitsu based results are impressive and i agree that the 73mm HTA wheel would go well with the gt30 turbine.

It's a mystery bag. The wheels don't appear to be much bigger then stock. It's a plain bearing cartridge It's not an rb20 or 25 cartridge so no point looking for rb specific line kits. Different oil feed needed. The link above doesn't have the right oil feed adapter either. Honestly, don't waste your time on it.

lol just jokes.

Can someone change the title to "Roy's story time thread?"

Straight bellhousing swap, bolt up with rb pressure plate. rb/sr friction plates are interchangeable. sr and rb20 use the same slave cylinder dunno why you'd want to though as sr boxes cost more than rb. Shifter will sit 50mm further back than an rb box.

I really hope it's worth it scandy. Remember back to the early release blurbs about how the integrated bov, boost control solenoid and IW housing options were supposed to make it easier and cheaper to fit one!

The undertray on the mazda will only be telling half the story. He'd have to have some pretty extensive vents in the bonnet to let trapped air/heat out.

Faltimadores for all! Can't find any solid info on engines regs. I've found a few articles basically stating that the current gen nissan V8's don't comply with COTF regs but can't find the source. Also the current Chev and Ford donks will be carried forward with the possibility of a spec engine. Example: Has any one else seen anything more promising? I'm going to take benm's aussie car idea one step further. Aussie race car chassis made a bit wider and longer, one of those boutique bike based V8's out of the Atom, fibreglass body, COTF! Fails on the safety aspect though....

Spec engine with spec chassis. They really will be falcodores from next year. Stick them on an oval! I'd be interested to see engine regs. Could nissan (or ford for that matter) run an OHC V8 and gain an advantage or are they going to be penalised for moving away from the push rod donks?

Out of interest Dale; Are you running a tube and fin or bar and plate intercooler?

The plan is to eventually run a splitter/undertray extending to the engine cross member. That's more for aero than cooling though. Nothing right now. The skyline under trays that i've seen start at the radiator support which IMHO is less important that ducting from the front of the car. One of my first ever posts on this forum (when i was still BHDave so 03/04ish) was asking whether i was missing the front half of mine as it didn't make sense to me to start at that point. The factory intercooler had a nice plastic duct running to it but the tiny single core radiator got no help....

Yeah they run a guard underneath from factory, but i have never seen one....or at least never noticed one before. The mounts for it look the same as the r32 so it'll be pretty similar, starting at the bottom radiator support and running to around the swaybar/front of sump somewhere

Thought they went under. I remember reading Maximum Boost by Corky Bell and he wrote a fair bit about them. I did some searching at the time and they were no longer available. Plenty of people trying to figure out what to replace them with though... I'd be more interested in one of these. Is porsche, is good.

Obviously not an R33, and not a road car so no reo in the way of air. This one shows the guides for the intercooler extending all the way forward and the top guide for the radiator. The radiator guide extends to the front of (what used to be) the radiator support to give it a cleaner run at the core. When i originally made the top guide i measured it to run to the headlights, but it just doesn't fit as the bonnet drops down in front of the radiator support so i figured it would do a good enough job of guiding the air at that point. I don't know if you can see it in the photo but the guide for the intercooler is wider at the front to make the most of the gap between the headlights. This one just gives a view of how i have everything laid out. I have a gap between the intercooler and radiator of about an inch due to the oil cooler being in there. There's about 10 rows of the oil cooler hidden behind the IC. It's up high to minimise the area with 3 cores, couldn't go higher and close the bonnet. Still no side guides in it, i ran out of time before it's first track day and it seemed to do ok without them even on a 35 degree day. They are on the to do list. Here's a work in progress of building the bottom guide. The centre bit was eventually shortened and is bolted to the lower opening on the front bar. You can see the 2 bolts in the top pic if you look closely.

Do you have pictures of your current ducting? Does it extend to the front of the car, or just between the 2 cores? On the low pressure area behind the intercooler; I think you are looking at an extreme but your thinking is correct. I'd be inclined to think you would have some interaction at he boundary of the air coming through the intercooler with the stuff coming over the top but it's all still going through the radiator as the pressure of the air behind it will force it through. Sticking a guide in there should help but by how much i couldn't say. But i tend to think it's more important to get the guides as far forward as is practical to direct/channel as much air towards the cores as possible. Guides from the front of the cooler to the hole in the front bar, guides up the sides between the radiator and the grille. Maybe angle the guide between the top of the intercooler and the radiator down slightly so more of the radiator is getting cooler air?

Don't waste your time mick, all you'll be doing is increasing the length of pipe for no noticeable reduction in intake temps. The air is moving too quickly to pick up much radiant heat off the rocker covers as mentioned above. As for your leak; if you have any unreinforced rubber joiners then get rid of them. They stretch and allow the air to squeeze out under the hose clamp at high pressure.

Dark blue or light blue? Light blue = noltec, dark blue = superpro. Noltec are a lower duro than most of the other aftermarket ones, they may have just flexed a bit much seeing as it's a pretty big bush. I'm running mostly noltec in the back of my s13 atm so might check them when i swap the rear brakes over in the next couple of weeks.

Agreed, it made mine look a lot better. Just black heat proof paint and i used some stainless allen key bolts because i'm a ricer. Work in progress shot when i was fitting the 3071

Wrong thread, i think you need the 270-284.99rwkw thread.... Or more boost.

Add boost until it stops making more power, then a couple more psi so you don't lose power on a hot day, then add some more to account for lower pressure at high altitude in case you drive to the snow next winter.

ha! Going back a few years 288rwkw HKS T300s, hks cast manifold and 38mm gate HKS 256/264 cams injectors/afm/3.5 inch exhaust/blah blah I'm going to blame the lack of E85 at the time

Is it QR that's really touchy about noise? Wouldn't want to trailer it 1000km to get booted off during the first session.

Interesting, I've also run r34gtt brakes on a 32 with factory master with no issue. I always ran a better front pad as its the one doing the bulk of the work, rears got whatever was on the shelf when i needed new ones.... non abs, no rear lock up issues unless i cocked up a 3-2 shift approaching a tight corner and even then it would only chirp the rears. Mostly track work with semi slicks.

^ What wolverine said. If it's driving fine then a few bumps and dips in the curve don't mean much. It could have spun the wheels coming on boost It could have overshot target boost as it ramped up It could have a bit of a misfire becasue the plugs are a bit old.