badhairdave

I'd hate to be cleaning the seat in the lancer after that last move. The guy is a danger to every one around him.

yeah, the ikeya formula tie rods have a lot of adjustment built into them and not too badly priced either.

yeah, not that interested. Maybe a small increase in power from the gt to the gtx but you are still limited by the turbine/housing combo as you are with 2871's.

I'd say the problem's 2 fold. You're over revving the water pump and it's causing cavitation rather than moving water, get an under drive pulley on there, or consider an electric water pump. You put an rb in a silvia Tight engine bay and all the cooling issues that come with it. The factory oil cooler/water heater mentioned above is a fair point but i didn't think that was carried over onto the neo rb25, just the r33 rb25's.

Nice high horse you have there. Attachment... Yes i know it's from an SR manual, it's all i have available on the work computer. RB one will say something similar. If you don't have the gear to measure it then replace them. They do not necessarily need to replaced. Pages from em.pdf

you aren't running low boost....and it's fluttering now so it's not like you aren't used to it.

^ what he said, plus 10mm longer manifold studs too, they are 1.25 pitch long bit and 1.5 pitch short bit. And up the trans cooler size as mentioned by simon. Do you have a line kit for the turbo? It will simplify things a lot. 90 degree 2-2.5 inch silicone bend for the compressor outlet and, depending on how you want to do the intake (3 inch or 4 inch) a 3-4 reducer and either an 80mm or 100mm straight joiner. The spanner work to install it is pretty basic, mod the hot pipe by extending it about 100mm with a bit of straight 2.5 inch pipe, intake pipe, dump is the most time consuming if you do it yourself.

nah, rb25 manual box.

It's doable. 2 of mine when i was trying to get it right on the rb25, unfortunately not showing 20 by 3k in either of these as we were battling boost control issues. On road it would crack 20psi by 3k in 4th on a flat road easily. Same basic setup as Mick's but with a .63 and a set of drop in cams. I heard you might be looking for a turbo, liz, I'll pm you the sr results edit: the bottom one was boost control via the right foot so not even wide open throttle, hence the really bad curve.

Ah, that explains it. original talk was of a .63IW, i must have missed where it was changed

*cough* I near sprayed my computer with coffee, my gt3071 sr20 curve is nearly identical, even peak power. I won't post it as i don't want to take away from micks results as that is awesome for a .63 IW on a stock manifold. No boost control issues either which is a relief. Out of interest, what boost controller do you run mick as i would have thought it would hit full boost a lot sooner (under 3k) based on my old rb25 results.

If you are buying after market arms then in order of preference get r32gtst (if they are available) followed by S13 due to the taper on the ball joint being the same. All of those front LCA's i listed fit r32's, hence why i said they all fit. I personally had stock s14 LCA's in mine but ran an r32 ball joint in them. No offence Zeb, but i don't see anything particularly difficult about fitting up the arms in the thread you linked. Plus the megan racing arms remove the caster rod bolt issue. the sway bar should be sitting above the LCA anyway if the spacers on the outer end are fitted so no need to cut tabs off.

yep, the cable is binding as it rotates. first step is to check there are no sharp bends in it after the install. If there aren't then put up with it or buy a new one.

Buy one already done. If money, time, and alternate transport aren't issues then build it yourself so it's how you want it as nothing you buy will be exactly what you want.

I wouldn't say waste of time. You will have learned about the 1 really significant difference between r33 and r34 calipers before you finished swapping them over.

It's fine until the engine dies, they'll learn the hard way eventually.

All the s13 arms fit the rear in the r32 except toe arms. With the Rear LCA (if you are going to swap it) check the width of the bush first as there are a few r32's out there running different sized bushes, mine was one of them...The taper on the ball joint is the same s13/r32. On the front, s13, 14, 15, r33, r34gtst LCA's all fit, the later ones are a bit longer so you gain some camber. But you need to swap in your ball joint as the tapers are different in the later models, s13 taper is the same, but s13 arm is the same length as r32 so no gain. You need the r32 adjustable upper arm, but again be careful during install as i found that my 32gtst used a smaller diameter bolt at the outer end compared to the inner where as the arm i bought was set up for the larger bolt at both ends meaning i had the enlarge the hole in the upright and get 2 new bolts. leave the factory tie rods and tie rod ends alone, no need to change them.

Heat. Turbo silvias have a big vent for the intercooler on the front left and no vent on the right so your right inner pad is probably getting hotter than the inner left. The pad is still wearing fairly evenly though it's a bit hard to say for certain when they are that low because they tend to fall apart...

Have to see what i can find on my work laptop and photobucket 1st, My old 32gtst at the Oran Park Skidpan 2nd, Another skidpan at OP again, me doing much better this time OPGP coming out of the esses (way off the racing line and out of shape) More OPGP in the NA shit box silvia Funnily, all my photos seem to be at OP, when most of my circuit driving is at Wakefield....

To be honest i'd just grab another 2nd hand one. No point spending big dollars for such a tiny gain. I'd only go custom if i had to and even then i'd probably stick with a plain old steel front half to keep the cost down.

i want one now. Even at 18psi it's an animal to make so much power as early as it does. I wonder how an rb25 would go trying to spool it....

Low for a US dyno, inline with local results for us though as it's a Mustang and not dynojet. For the uninformed, dynojets will typically give a higher peak power with a later peak torque when compared to a mustang or dyno dynamics read out.

nismo injector spray patterns are fine. They are just a rebranded denso injector. It's actually the sards that are a bit ordinary as they are (or used to be) single pintle. Nothing wrong with the PE injectors and they'd be my pick for e85 in an rb25 with your target power. ID1000 and 2000 injectors are good things, just a bit of extra work (and cost) getting them in an rb25

Uncontrollable boost through the midrange and top end with the .63 housing Enlarged the wastegate port and flap as much as possible to try and bypass more. It was partially successful in that it could now limit boost to 1.2bar through the midrange but would actually blow open up top. I concluded that the fairly large area of the flap and highish manifold prssure was simply able to apply too much force to the flap for the small actuator. So next was going to be a big can actuator to replace the small garrett one but instead i crashed the car into the tyres at a race track...pretty confident that it would have done the job, but spending an extra 500 to mod the housing on a brand new turbo and buy a new actuator is a bit much. Was going to upload a photo of the modded housing by photobucket is being a bitch

Good price then, GTX's are typically going for a few hundred more than their GT cousins Edit, while i'm in the thread: As another rb25/3071 owner who had a hell of a lot of trouble with boost control in a Garrett IW .63 housing i would strongly recommend a .82 with a GTX if you are staying internal gate. I would probably still go a .63 if i was doing an external gate setup in either GT or GTX 3071