badhairdave

This kit? -20 cart is not a GTX

Double check the contents, r32's don't use rear toe rods, kit should come with a hicas lock bar.

keep looking, something better will turn up. r33 guards can swallow 9's and 10's and still look sunken.

Roy, you need to come back to NSW where the silvias are fast and the skylines are slow to prove your point about rb20's being quicker than sr's Anyway, kinda on topic: I've been wondering lately about the merits of a solid head rb20 as i contemplate buying another r32. s/h rb26 cams and lfters, probably need some new shims to get the clearences set up, some new double valve springs and rev it to 9k. leave the bottom end stock, replace as necessary. Run big f**k off turbo that doesn't come on until 5k, 1.6ish bar by 6 and still a reasonable rev range. It'll do better than 320rwkw. Need some of those rare as rocking horse shit 4.6 diff gears to go with it.

With hons in climatology you are more of an expert than the founders of the Galileo movement. A hygienist who did a BSc in an unrelated field 45 years ago and an air conditioning installer..... When over 90% of climatologists are saying humans are having an effect on the climate, i listen. I give no f**k for what the rest of the scientific community (or some random retiree's) are saying because they are not experts in the field.

gt35 turbine exducer is only 2.5. Newer GT garrets have the flare up to 3 inch on the outlet but the older T series turbos just had a straight outlet off the turbine, the flare had to be made in the first part of the dump.

yeah, i posted a similar question in the race car trailer thread in motorsport. General feeling was you'd be ok if the car you were towing was registered. Potential for rape by cops if it is unregistered as no means of proving the car is roadworthy considering it's wheels are in use.... Bit hard to find solid info on something oddball like that.

In draw through you can run what ever you want. Just need to size it correctly and play with the jets. The limitation will be what carb you can get cheap and what adapters you can find/bodge together for cheap. A single side draught weber will work, ditto dellortos or any other side draught type carb. I think the old Werritt special sigma turbos ran a single 1.5SU. Those kits pop up occasionally for cheap. I've seen holleys used but it's ugly as the carb is designed to sit flat so you need this 90 degree bend/adapter thing. Plus the holley premium... I reckon it'd be cheaper trying to find an old analogue microtech fuel only comp (ah the memories) and run the original injectors.

R888's get up to temp really quickly, that wasn't the issue. I wasn't overly thrilled with mine either but eventually found how to make the most out of them. In my case, lots of camber and fairly low pressures (low 30's hot). Even then outright grip was still less than i have now with the same alignment and re55s running a little more pressure. Keep in mind that the FZ's are only available in medium at the moment

The short answer is maybe The long answer is: If they are offering multiple tapers on the front ball joints then yes. The problem is that s13 does not run the same taper on the ball joint as s14 or 15. S13 ball joints are very similar to r32, i think the length was different but the angle was the same (or something like that, it's been a while). On the rear an s14/15 ball joint should work on an r32 as the knuckles are the same.

^^^ Yeah, that sounds like Yavuz.

Same as above. Old semis are faster (assuming they aren't 50c pieces) than new streets 2 of my pb's were done on 8+ day old semis

The first set would be my pick. They seem to have a bit more tread depth. 2 tyres are a bit excessively worn on the outside edge, probably due to lack of camber, but nothing i'd be worried about. Particularly when they are only 500 bucks. The old rubber is a good indicator that they have only been used on the track and then wheels swapped for the trip home. Chuck them on the rear, run them into the ground. RE55's still provide good grip well past the indicators. The second set have been driven on the street. Way too clean, possibly past their best as far as heat cycles go. I would leave them alone.

collapsed cat would still make boost, just not do anything with it. Can you hear the turbo spool up? Have you confirmed that it definitely isn't making boost and that the issue isn't with the boost gauge? Stupid question i know but i have seen it happen. Put it on a dyno. you'd be suprised what you can see when you look at the engine under load.

Subframe risers are a common mod these days. Drifters love them. powered by max make them (off the top of my head) along with plenty of others. 2 issues with running an s14 subframe. 1) the subframe mounting points are slightly different (can be overcome with offset drilled subframe risers which are less common but i have seen them around) and 2) the r32 arm's don't fit the later subframe.

Those spring rates combined with the bars is really way too high for any skyline, even if you were running slicks. I had the same combo in my 32, handled brilliantly in the right circumstances, just became unsettled way too easily with ripple strips, bumps, etc on the road and track. 6/4 would work reasonably well, i would be half way inclined to go a bit softer if it's a streeter but the pitching under brakes would become a bit excessive.

It's called the handling pack...

Selling my project NA S13 Recently tuned by unigroup to make 109rwkw with quiet exhaust. Rego til Nov11 2011 85,000 odd km showing on the odo which is likely bullshit, but considering there's very little original driveline left in the car it doesn't matter too much Located in Campbelltown NSW, Contact via PM Engine and drive line S14DE engine S15 6 Speed box ORC super single clutch Braided clutch line Tomei 270 12.5 cams Tomei valve springs S15 440cc injectors Walbro intank fuel pump Custom 4-2-1 Extractors Custom 2.5 exhaust with Apexi ECV and kakimoto mid muffler Shortened intake RB25 AFM Modified factory air box R32GTSt viscous diff R32GTSt 5 bolt drive shafts S13 DET loom S13 Nistune Jaycar VCT controller Steering and suspension S13 SR20DE Brakes HEL Braided front brake lines Alloy subframe collars Tune agent adjustable toe arms Tune agent strengthened tie rods with extra lock Tune agent tie rod ends Unknown brand adjustable caster rods S13 front shocks with tein S tech Med Spings (3.7kg/mm from memory) Koni adjustable rear shocks with tein S tech springs (3.2kg/m from memory) 30mm front sway bar 24mm rear sway bar Nismo rear upper arms Wheels and tyres Sparco Viper 17x8 +32 front wheels with near new kumho tyres Sparco viper 17x9 +38 rear wheels with near new nankangs Interior Nismo gear knob Drift Button Auto technica wheel and boss Factory Grey interior Cracked dash Body Resprayed silver at some point. Paint is fair Blue bonnet minor dings in doors and front guards damaged lower rear quarters mismatched handles (black) and minor damage below the handle where someone has tried to break in. Speedo currently doesn't work, I will supply an s15 wheel speed sensor which you will need to mount somewhere and wire in and you'll need to get an electronic adjuster to get the speedo accurate which cost about 100 bucks. Pretty simple and I can explain it to prospective buyers in a bit more detail. Looking for $8,500 ono as it sits Cheers Dave

The 10cm2 is the A in A/R If you can measure the R or find a diagram you can work it out.

1 ways are ok for street/track. A mates track silvia has one and i quite liked it when i used it for a day. personally i'd be looking at the s/h nismo 1.5 though, seeing as thats what i have and really like how it works. As simon said, the difference between a 1.5 and 2 way isn't that big of a deal. I've found a tight 1.5 way behaves pretty much exactly the same as a 2 way. Once they loosen up a bit or have friction modifier added to the oil it's a bit more noticeable.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Silicone-90-degree-Elbow-Reducer-Hose-64-51mm-2-5-2-/280646950261?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4157dc9d75 And extend your factory hot pipe by about 100mm by welding on a bit of 2.5 pipe

As long as the counterweights don't hit the steering rack you're on a winner.

Can't find the thread now but str8e180 has posted photos in the past of a modified set of rb25 runners with flanges to suit the 26 itb's. So i'd guess powertune could do something for you too.

looks like a bargain to me. If you think it's too powerful turn down the boost. Definitely worth considering. I wouldn't expect it to be particularly unreliable, no more so that any other car that regularly sees the track.

But it's already got your name on it! I'm probably biased but i'd be looking at s13/14 for a few reasons. S13 is a cheaper buy in, but on the flip side it needs more spent on it to bring it up to a decent level for track work. It's also more likely to have worn out components that need replacing and budget spec drift mods. It is lighter than an s14 though. The s14 will cost a bit more but it comes with better brakes has the (arguably) better VCT SR, has better suspension geometry and brakes. It can fit more rubber under the stock guards too. Both are cheap to mod, particularly brakes as r33/r34gtst ones are cheap and more than ample on the lighter s chassis, both are proven performers on the track with minimal money spent Plenty of common parts between S and R chassis too if you have old bits from the skyline lying around already. As for learning, you'll learn more in a rwd with no driver aid's than you will in something like an emo where the drivers have aids Lap timing stuff, there's plenty available. I have an XT racing timer, but there's AIM and a few others about as well in a similar price bracket. If it was a crossover street/track car i'd have another r32gtst, thanks.