badhairdave

Price drop 250 exhaust 275 eboost 200 bovs 140 oil cooler 100 pod filter 90 front pipes I think that's everything.

Also have a set of rb26 front pipes. Pretty ugly mild steel hks pipes. 2.5" in, 3" out. Bit scraped up, $100 ono

Forgot to include the old hks filters. Look to have fairly new elements in them. Includes mounting brackets. $120 ono

It has a couple of ports in the remote housing for sensors.

I have a few parts that have come off the car that are no longer needed. In no rush to sell. I am negotiable on price to some extent. All parts in S/W sydney, will post smaller items only. Some shitty camera phone pics included for now, will get some better ones when the light improves. R32 GTR HKS Silent Hi Power cat back exhaust, previous owner has added a mid resonator. Average condition, some dents and scrapes $300 ono Eboost street 40, working when removed from car, includes wiring and solenoid $300 ono Pair of blitz bovs, came out of a 32gtr, $250 ono JJR oil cooler with remote filter, $150 ono

Cool, thanks. Confirms i got a 94

Can i please get a check on my new nugget? BNR32-307318 Thanks

If you're looking for a lifted front end then yes, you just need to swap the tops. The r32 front into s13 rear swap is if you want a silly low car.

Just jam a bit of coat hanger in the end until you get through the muck and then pump some water through the engine with the hose to flush it out properly before connecting to anything. Better to get rid of it now. It's not a big issue, i had to do the same when going back to a water cooled turbo.

Agreed. I thought the same originally when the designs were released. Just does not suit the rest of the track. How green is the new bit! He noticably backs off and it's still moving about a bit.

So get a 3071? Anyway, i was at a track day recently and another s13 was out there with a .64 6758. Basic built red top, 260/12mm camtechs, greddy intake manifold maybe and a high mount manifold. The thing was making a touch over 300rwkw at 21psi all in by 3500. Cheating with E85 but still very impressive. I certainly wouldn't discount them.

Old thread is old, e85 didn't exist.

db1170 = front pads db1220 = rear pads

I've only ever seen 1 legit 2871 result come close to this in terms of response and outright power. It was all in in the low 3's, peaked around 270 and rolled off after 5500. Pretty sure it was running 50/50 98/e85 or something with the cams cranked way over to get response. Anyway. The potential is obviously there. For a baby "bolt on" to have that sort of power with mid 3's response is extremely impressive. If you aren't out of injector already you will be once the leak is fixed. ID2000 time.

To be honest your 143rwkw@11psi is on the low side. The stock turbo's don't do anything special power wise past 12psi anyway so i'd say you were already 20rwkw down. Cant say if it's the dyno or the car. From what you've said the car is currently running like a bag of crap, which i'd expect with half an hour to play with. It shouldn't have much done beyond a bit of light load tuning and maybe a run up to check that it's safe. Plenty more in it. Also, re the 200@16 comment. Unless someone has had it on an RB20 i'd be doubtful. On an sr20 yeah, on an rb25 yeah, maybe less boost, on an rb20 no, they just seem to need a bit more boost to make the same numbers.

so much fkn win! Rocket switch, potentiometer, and powered off the ciggie lighter! What if you want to light a smoke and have high boost at the same time?

Unless you plan on going for more power then the stock bottom end is fine. That said, if you are going for a little bit more power then keep it simple, pistons, rods, rod bolts, head studs. Replace valve springs while it's apart. Stock everything else, maybe a sump if you are rally concerned but in general rb25s are happy on the track with a bit of extra oil in the sump. Oil control problems start when you upgrade the oil pump. Keep that in mind.

It was a cost thing. The results that were around indicated they were good things but the premium paid for trust gear was unpalatable when you could get a new gen Garrett for half the price. That and majority rules when you're dealing with sheeple

Do you guys do a risk analysis before you take a dump? Sorry, should go back a step; Do you guys do a risk analysis before you eat something spicy? Nah, sorry mate, can't put it on the dyno, not safe to drive it onto the rollers.... Idle issues; check vac lines, afm may be a bit touchy if you have a short metal intake pipe or an atmo BOV so the tune it may need a touch up in that area possibly combined with adjusting the idle screw.

They are Stern's. Don't know what model, either they don't put stickers on them or they fall off easily. I have a set on my silvia in 17x9 +25ish (based on tape measure as no stickers) Yours look to have been painted recently, they are generally silver painted centres.

TA45 rings a bell. Pretty sure that's what came with the rb26 kit. Though the turbo could have been changed any time in the last 20 years as it's unlikely the one that originally came with the kit is still alive.

GTSBoy does make a fair point if legality is an issue. I actually just locked up the factory rack in mine with some home made 5mm thick washers and unpluged one plug on the hicas controller in the boot. It looked stock and didn't stuff the steering weight. I removed everything else later. That was only because lock bars weren't commonly available at that time though.

my understanding is that all after market adjustable valves are adjusting the knee point. So 1:1 pre knee and then fixed ratio post knee. by moving the knee point you effectively reduce the rear pressure. Seems to work. I'm positive i have seen a wilwood graph but buggered if i can find one now. Generic one:

ha! Who needs fast....

Just spend $150 on a hicas lock bar and remove the redundant lines from under the car. Leave the power steering pump alone and just loop the lines so it feeds the cooler section of the circuit. Plenty of info on how to do it on this forum. If you are going to go to the bother of changing subframes then you may as well get one with better geometry. S14 would be my choice, offset bushes are readily available through drift part suppliers so it can be mounted. You'll need to get an s14/15/r33/34 back cover for the diff. As for your initial question; Your easiest option is to manualise (it's not really a word) your current rack. Basically it involves pulling it apart, removing the internal seals, greasing it up and blocking a few holes up. There are write ups on a few silvia forums on how to do it. With an RB up front i wouldn't recommend it. I have no power steering in my s13 track car and it's okish. It was better when the car was NA with less weight over the front end, it's a bit too heavy now that it's a turbo with intercooler, bigger radiator, oil cooler, ducting, etc adding weight up front.