BASHO

I'm useing the same and I just changed it after 4 months and about 2500ks all short journeys and it seemed a bit shagged which surprised me , may have just been appearance though the oil pressure and general running still seemed good how is yours on changing ? I noticed the price has gone up a bit as well I paid $48.00 for it 3 months ago and it was $63.00 at Autobarn a week ago. (5lt) FFFFFFFFFAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRkit.

Thanks for this. WO=with out ? If your NEO engine cover W/O RED wording...that's S2 or S3 If so mines red so I guess that me resin and ceramic'd .

Brand New Blitz Dual SBC Spec R Electronic Boost Controller (Nengun Price $ 591.49) Im Asking $400 Still got this ? Still in box complete ? English install instructions ? got a link you could post ?

What turbo am I running in a stock R34GTT ? and ceramic wheel or what ? I seem to be getting mixed opinions rather than facts, and what would be a good upgrade option fast spool for street not bothered about huge top end , high flow existing or what ?

Thanks, helped mighty, bottom line is that synchromesh gears dont like Hypoid oil hence the syncro drag, for want of a better term, that I am experiancing though as I understand it hypoid oil would actualy be a stronger option wieght for wieght than non Hypoid , also interesting is the fact that GL4 is now considered obselete. After running around all the local Autobarns, Suercheeps, Repco's etc I found that GL4 75w-90 non hypoid oil is rarer than rocking horse shit, in point of fact I found none. This may explain why no oil manufacturer specifys 75w-90 , they just don't have it , so they spec 75w-85 or whatever they have thats sorta nearest--how encouraging Except good ole Mobil who do 75w-90 GL4-------- in 20ltr drums , go to Kingdom OZ to actualy get even that, although I was told somewhere in Burliegh may have it. I was offered Redline light at $160 3.85ltr bottle by Bursons but have been told that this has a habit of turning to cheese and requires a gearbox rebuild to actualy get the stuff out . I now have even less of an idea what the best oil for this gearbox woud be than when I started.

Thanks for that, I actualy found out from Nulon that the spec is GL4 75w-90 , Nissan wouldn't tell me and had no oil to sell me iether, made me feel a bit like Oliver Twist. -More Mr Beadle please sir ? A bit of perhaps useless infi on gaerbox oil specs according to Oil Mfrs for the R34GTT. CASTROL--------VMX 80 OR VMX-M 75w-85 MOBILUBE-------XHP 75w-90 NULON----------75-85 full syntnetic SMOOTH SHIFT. I'm now puzzled why my gearshifting was so heavy if I use 75w-90 was it because I used oil with Hypoids in it ? WTF are hypoids anyway, everyone I ask looks sheepish and changes the topic. This is of course is intended in the style of Clarkson , Hypoid what is Hypoid is that an oily steroid ? etc

Yikes Caltex cnr Brisbane Rd and Olsen Ave Labrador QLD today ULP $1.09c Vortex 98 $1.29 , 20c per litre smac my ass diff AAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRGHH .

OK , the SIN 75 feels way to heavy for the gearbox in my R34GTT the gearchange is sluggish and the selectors work way to hard going from the snick to a clurk noise when changing gear noise , I've hoyed it out and have gone with a straight Nulon 80 smooth shift on the basis that Castrol recomend VMX 80 or VMX 75/85 and I couldn't find any on the shelf on Sunday, this again is a Hypoid which is probably another wrong'n. I'm going to phone Nissan and see if I can find out what wieght of oil they would put in if they were servicing it , which they won't. wish me luck

Whats the difference between oils with Hypoid whatever and non hypoid ? I know I should know but I just dont

$50+p&p to QLD 4215 ?

Love the methodoligy. I have absolutely no idea what the OE spec for the R34GTT gearbox is if you could post it up it would be of great help as after huge searching on here many others don't seem to know either. After refering to this post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...ts-t205993.html I then phoned Penrite and asked them what thier equivalent to Syntrax 75-90 was as I had used Penrite 10/10 which they no longer make and was happy with it , thier advice was SIN 75. Penrite also didn't have an oil spec'd specificly for an R34GTT manual gearbox as such.

Hmm, not acording to Penrite when I phoned them, unless of course I misunderstood which is not beyond the realms of possibility given that I'm an ole fart. Not doubting you on this but the oil that came out was a deal heavier than 70 grade and its a 5 speed box. Penrite sez:- SIN GEAR OIL 75 Synthetic gear oils engineered for maximum protection, life and performance. Use for transmissions and differentials for all types of high performance cars. SIN Gear Oil 75 has been specifically enhanced to survive the extremes of V8 operations. Exceed API GL-5 and GL-6. Package and Code: 2.5LSING750025 20LSING75020 AND MANUAL GEAR OIL 70 A great synthetic performance gear oil featuring new generation technology. Suitable for many modern 6 speed manual gearboxes where originally a synthetic or mineral automatic transmission fluid was specified. Ideal for T-56 manual transmissions and VW/Land Rover gear boxes. SAE 70W-75, API GL-4 Plus, BOT338 Package and Code: 2.5L MGO70750025 20L MGO7075020

I'm interested in doing this , I live in Labrador QLD who would be my nearest tuner for this and would I need to to purchase/install a separate boost controler or any other supporting mods. I already have a 3' into 2.5" turbo back exy.

Thanks mate, I think you might find that the 75-85 is a synthetic blend, the labeling is a bit deceptive. The sin 75 is a fully synthetic product and carries 75-90 printed in smallish letters on the lower left side front here's a link http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/gear...sin_gear_oil_75 the SIN 75 is about $55.95 for a 2.5lt bottle the 75-85 blend is around $28-32 for 2.5ltr, I think , I know I nearly bought the 75-85 just on bucks but decided to bite the bullet as I'd only change the gearbox oil evry 12-15 months as I do bugger all klms. I changed all my oils today, motor/gearbox/diff and I used the penrite SIN 75 in the gearbox so I'll post if it goes crook. I've got a 98 R34GTT with 80000ks on it which I think are genuine. I've got a fat exhaust but wont be going beyond a Nistune motherboard and tune when it comes to more mods so it won't be working that hard. Farkin bad news on the box, what gearset are you using with that much kws ?

How absolutely on the nail, I think they compete with the RACQ in the race to se who can jam thier tongues up the collective govt asses fastest and the spokesperson always seems to be a tweedy bearded clown to whom article 303 should be applied immediatly. And whilst off topic, but on motor fluids--I just changed engine oil and filter 5LT Nulon 10/40 full syn (4.1 used)=$58.95. gearbox 5lt Penrite SIN 75 (4lt used) $111.98 and Diff 2lt Castrol SAF XA (1.6lt used)$58.96. Thats a total of 12ltrs of fluids at a cost of $228.91 = $19.0758c per litre with wastage of 2.3litres thus rendering a real cost of $23.598c per litre. And fark me I forgot to include the $10.00 for the Nissan oil filter If anyone wants the left over bits (1lt nulon 10 40 sin Hi flow. 1lt penrite sin 75. 1/2LT Castrol SAF XE). you can have them if you want to pick them up, I'm in Labrador but best PM quickly before I slap them on Fleebay and make my fortune. FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrkit

Anybody used Penrite SIN 75 (75x90) gearbox oil or have any comments on it ? There is also SIN 80 (80x140) which may ? be a goer for summer--or not ? I'm thinking of using it in my R34GTT as I used Penrite 10/10 SIN in a WRX gearbox a fair while ago and it worked well but for a Skyline well , I know nothing

I was amazed to. We do.

Because they can and the fact that the government is never going to shoot what is arguably its best tax collector.

I'm thinking of getting a Nistune G-up installed and the nearest tuners are K-Tune at Varsity Lakes has anyone used them and how did they perform ? Please PM me if you reckon it's inapropriate to post. Not on a dirt digging excercise here just cautious. I know no-one localy as I'm a southern blow-in so any help would be much appreciated.

Jeez, someone must have one please don't tell me I'm gonna have to get a newby aaaaaaaarrggh.

Hi Mate, money ($45.00 cash) put in NAB Runaway Bay branch at 9.50 AM this morning the I.D is BASHO. Cheers, Al.

Thanks mate, I'd do this in a heartbeat if I were in Sydney , but unfortunately I'm in Surfers.

Thanks for that, where would I find Nistune ? is that the one with an additional/ replacement motherboard ? If it's the Nissan equivalant of ECUtech that could be just the thing I'm after, I'll try a google but any link you could post would be much appreciated. I'm running stock boost, I haven't put a gauge on it and there appear to be no leaks so whatever OE is, it is, the car ain't what you'd call slow by any stretch of the imagination it could just be a tad sharper if you know what I mean. The exhaust is a 3" jap dump, a new highflow 3" cat, a 3.5" cat back to a 3.5" jap mid muffler and a new 3.5" Varex rear muffler set to 60% apperture, the muffler also has an internal 1" permanent bypass, it's disgustingly street legal even when at 100% apperture. I didn't know you could get aftermarket sidemounts do you know who does them ? I'm a bit off frontmounts as I always associate them with lag (rightly or wrongly) and the kind of power levels I'm just not after + I think it would nean a plenum change and all the turtling around that goes along with that. Thanks again, Al.

doubled up aaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrgh

I know nothing about oils and have no mechanical qualifications outside of , I hope , common sense and 45 years of driving experiance and DIY servicing . After reading a shit load of posts it would seem to me the problem is one that is inherant with the RB engines and that is that the pump shoves all the oil into the top of the block/head and as the oil can't drain back fast enough so the bottom end 'can' starve resulting in spun bearings and all sorts of mischief. Basicly what this would seem to mean in a practical sense is that an engine that should be good on 15x50 in summer and 10x40 in winter (never mind the syn v dino atm) actualy has a manufacturers spec of 7.5 x 30 so that it's thin enough to actualy drain back and not cause bottom end starvation , what a crock, 7.5 x 30 what were they thinking ? Living in SE Qld I am lucky enough to not to have to worry to much about wildly excesive high/low temperatures,sure we get a couple of chilly ones and a few hot ones so good ole common sense says to me no floggy when too hot/cold. As the average ambient temp is consistantly higher here that the manufacturers would have likely planned for in most of these cars I have gone for 10 x 40 Nulon Hi Flow Full Synthetic (as I posted previously) . The price is good, the oil specification seems on the money and the results seem fine with a good hot/cold oil pressure, smooth running engine and a fuel consumption of 13.3ltr 100klms.(98 R34GTT) I now wait with baited breath for someone to shoot down my methodoligy