BASHO

4-7 kw gain, what was that that just flew past my window --why it was a pig--honest . It'll look good if you get the anodised ones and red will deffinately give the biggest gains, ah-hem .

Never thought of that -stupid me--AFAIK stock and I'll be bettin that that they aint been trimmed either, I'll check tomorrow when it's getting the wheel alignment. How hard are these to remove and trim and of course by how much considering I'm presuming I'm running stocky shockys ? I'm say 35 lower front and 25 lower rear. Is there a tutorial anywhere on this one I wonder? Cheers, Al.

Thanks mighty for that.

Well bushes in, all good, wheel align tomorrow, I'm thinking that its probably just me with the harshness, the bumps that cause concern would cause concern in nearly anything , I don't have anything to compare it with, my only worry is possible damage to other components if these springs are to harsh. Cheers again for the info , Al.

Can anyone tell me the Camber-castor-toe 98 R34GT-t or give me a link where I can find it can't do search as searchy function seems to be a bit orf .

Thanks Garry, reason I asked is that I have aftermarket springs in , probably Kings judging from the yellow colour which have the vehicle at 350mm front and rear , the ride though OK seems a little harsh however Kings tell me the set is aprox 3.3/3.1 kg/mm so I was wondering if the drop had been excessive and thus encouraged some harshness and now knowing what it is I doubt that a lowering F30-35 & R20-25 would be resposible so perhaps it's just me. It remains of some concern however as tomorrow both castor rod bushes are being replace with Nylex jobbys as one of the OE ones has popped and the silicone lubricant is buisey leaking out, I have no way of knowing if this is just a normal thing in this model or if I need to be quickly thinking of a spring change before more damage is done. Cheers , Al.

I'm just wondering what the stock hight wheel centre to wheel arch lip of a 98 R34GT-t is I've searched and come up with nix , probably just looking in the wrong place.

Thanks for that, I did a quick check of NGKs site so it's interesting to note that both the Iridium (BKR6EIX-11) and the Platinum (PFR6G-11) for A 98 R34GT-t have the 1.1 gap specified.

You wouldn't have the part No for those plugs by any chance ?

Of course they are, I knew that, ah hem-- ---------------------------------------not. Thanks Gary.

I'm not sure what these are called if you look just behind and forward of the front wheel theres a connecting rod with a large-ish bush on the right which when crook leaks a clear silicon grease , and has to be replaced , = $ . I'm planning on having both sides replaced (even though only one is squirting) on Friday with Nylex bushes, = a bit less than OE $, and wonder if anyone has any comments on the possible sillyness -or not of this course of action. I'd do a search as I'm sure others have been there before me but I'm not sure what the friken things called.

Thought this topic was over, but have to add Mondays experiance, went to the local dealers to book in for an idle adjust and enquire about the cost of an 80k service (98 R34GT-t) which is imminent , why did I go in? well, cause thier phones weren't working, that should have told me something. Niether jobs going to happen , reason-dealer policy, no worky on imports. Frik My Ole Boots what a crock, this is the same Co, -Nissan -that posted a $16.3bil 1st half loss, pure genius at work , like I will ever rush to buy another Nissan product ? yer sure They did however give me a contact who would do it-Gavin Woods--Auto Tech, who happens to be just around the corner from my home so happy ending and still have my fi dola.

Ah Ha , that explains it, I knew I'd seen something about the group buy , it must have been your post, I've just ordered a greeny direct as there should be some available next week, it's a shame about the group buy not flying though.

Thanks for the help guys I think the ECUTalk ver 2 reader will be the go , that'll about strech my technical expertise to the max and doubtless be a lot safer for the car than a flaptop given my incurable propensity for fiddling. Only one problem, they seem to be out of stock and the group buy I thought was goin aint, or I can't find it if it is, is there just the one or are others out there ? That are any good that is. If it aint broke, mod it till it is .

I would like to be able to read & clear error codes and make minor adjustments such as idle speed on a 1998 R34GT-t Skyline .I would prefer to have a hand held unit to do this with along the lines of an OBD II style reader. I am as electronically adept as a newt.I'm not after a major tuning tool as I aint got a clue, I go to someone who knows wtf they're doing for that stuff. Can anyone advise me what I'm actualy looking for ?

I see what you mean, I took these steps to be all progressive , I'll give it a go and post the result.

OK guys looks like unless anyone knows a way of manualy getting in and out of the "IACV-AAC ADJ" program in the ECU we're screwed and orf to find a dealer/tuner who can perform this rather simple adjustment. Here is the relevant page from the workshop manual you will need to clik the frigin thing a few times to get it up to full size once you've opened it. And just to make our life a bit more fun heres a bit from the service manual :- "Air/Fuel Ratio Inspection CAUTION: RB25DET A/T model uses exhaust pressure-sensative control muffler. Therfore,insert probeof the CO/HC meter into the left exhaust pipe. (under no-load condition,exhaust gas is emitted from the left exhaust pipe only.)" Another possible reason for the overidle in the first place ? FRAKIT, it's hard to remember when you're up to your as in crocodiles you only came to drain the swamp!

Mine sits at 5kgcm and a bit cold @1100rpm and 2kgcm hot@ 800rpm and everywhere between 2kgcm and 6ish dependent on RPM and engine temp. I'm using 10-40 Nulon full syn fast flow?-quick flow? whatever and Nissan OE oil filter. I'm not to happy with the in between slow rev chugging around pressure which is showing between 2kgcm and 3.5kgcm (hot) in the 1000-2500rpm range, this is only 28.8 to 51psi in the good ole imperial measure. I did however have a Ford Maverick -AKA Nissan GQ Patrol- which had a very similar looking oil pressure sending unit and which told a similar story, until it died after which it showed nothing til it was replaced , so I'm thinking (and hopeing) a lazy sending unit.

It's 650rpm to set the timing and between 650 and 700rpm idle at normal running temp.

Cleaned mine yesterday, hardly needed doing, (98 R34 GT-t 79000ks) same prob as you with the idle, I can set it to a perfect 650rpm when the ACC sensor is disco'd as soon as I plug it back in bingo back to just over 800rpm have phoned a couple of service/tuning people and the only answer I been offered that at least gives a possible reason is that they put on a few RPM at idle if they have a bigger aftermarket exhaust, as mine has a 3" dump and a 3 1/2" cat back I'm guessing I qualify there, but it still doesn't get to an idle adjustment solution. I can get it down to 750 if I screw the idle adjust screw hard down but I'm not realy comfortable with that as it's obviously not a correct solution. I've set the idle, sensor disconected, at 600rpm and it's giving me 800rpm sensor connected, the search for a solution continues.

OK, I cleaned the AAC valve on my 98 R34GT-t (79000ks) not (after taking it off) that it appeared to need cleaning, reasembled the thing, took it for a drive to get everything warmed up, unpluged the sensor, set the idle to 650rpm gave the engine a couple of mild revs waited for it to settle, pluged the sensor back in --WAP-- back up to 800rpm WTF is it with this fricken thing. I've reset the idle with the sensor pluged in but cant get better than 750rpm with the adjuster near closed. I'm obviously missing something. Any ideas anyone ?

OK, I cleaned the AAC valve on my 98 R34GT-t (79000ks) not (after taking it off) that it appeared to need cleaning, reasembled the thing, took it for a drive to get everything warmed up, unpluged the sensor, set the idle to 650rpm gave the engine a couple of mild revs waited for it to settle, pluged the sensor back in WAP back up to 800rpm WTF is it with this fricken thing. I've reset the idle with the sensor pluged in but cant get better than 750rpm with the adjuster near closed. I'm obviously missing something. Any ideas anyone ?

Sorry for the ignorance but will these fit a 1998 R34 GT-t ?

Just an thought, why not go to http://www.carsales.com.au/car-research/ you'll probably find the actual differences here,-with a bit of luck .