mosoto

It's a buyers market. I would suggest you head over to Mobile Electronics Australia and look in the 4sale section. There are some bargains on very good gear going. While you're there get some good advice to suit your needs. Only advice I can give you: 1) STAY AWAY FROM JB OR STRATHIES FOR INSTALLATION 2) speakers - Audition them, no one can tell you what will sound good to your ears !!!!!!Decide on a price point and look at models in that bracket. 3) If your determined to keep the HU for easthetics then a simple LOC ( line out convertor ) will connect the Head Unit to your new Amp/s. Dave Navone models are the best and quitest. 4) Don't get suckered into the hype with "brand name" interconnects and cable. 5) Unless it's a name brand, avoid gear that boasts rediculous amounts of power output or handling, they usually fail at everything !!!!!!!!!

$ posted to 6155 ?

not sure about midland, Cannington are a Forum sponsor (Mobile Electonics Australia) and they do an excellent job without ripping you off. I guess you could call Midland (as it's closer) and ask if they do a discount for MEA members. AND FOR GODS SAKE DON"T GO TO JB OR STRATHFEILD. Sooooo many horror stories from those places. Oh and don't trust Forum mates named Bubba ....................jkn Bubba, I'd suggest strapping that sub down if you can m8, they make a nasty mess when they let go in an emergency braking situation. P.S. Gunns, if you've got a decent sub, lose the 6x9's you won't need them, they'll only drag your sound stage backward, unless of course your into that!!!!!!!

Simon or Pete at Alberts Cannington. Join up at MEA ( http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums...Reg&CODE=00 ) and you'll get a 10% discount off the bat

I have one of these supercheap buffs and was wondering if you'd use one on a good paint finish, over the Megs one linked by R31H above. I've used mine twice and successfully removed swirls and light scratches.

Found these on the G35 forums for late model skyline: Nissan_V35_Paint_Codes.doc

Soz m8, yeah was havin a larf.............. If you went dedicated the fuel tank becomes redundant and removed, hence where the new gas tank/s will go. It's a pricey system tho. Dedicated LGI for my V8 was going to cost 8K . Would take a l....o....n.....g time to pay for itself.

Um.........put on the spare!!!!!! Seriously tho, there are a few tank options. If I was looking at going liquid injection gas I'd be considering dedicated as well.

the best option if you want to maintain safety, improve performance & economy is Liquid injection http://www.australianlpgwarehouse.com.au/P...-Injection.aspx

Can't beat Pi-Thon, If you can find them........... http://www.pi-thondesigninc.com/inductionlocks.htm

found this whilst surfing: That car has brembo brakes so the space saver must fit !!!!!!

nup, me neither.

I've been driving for 25yrs and not needed the spare tyre once.................touch wood

If it's a buggered tyre wall it'll be an RAC flat bed to your nearest tyre shop. Free within 50Km isn't it? http://blogs.drive.com.au/2008/10/the_end_..._tyre_is_a.html an interesting read

:LOL:

De-value? I'm still amazed at current pricing trends given Redbook has the same value for Man/Auto and it's currently a buyers market. Best idea is buy a newer model in an auto. 03MT = 05AT in value going by carsales( give or take a few bob) Spit, what is your reason for needing an auto? Convenience in peak hour commuting etc? Or a better option for the ¼ either way get a front cut and just sell the motor on

pw350gt has his paddles installed reverse to the photo showing the end of the steering column (TTG pic). Do you find the location better like this pw350gt?

You can't lay gear on top of a sub for obvious reasons but as frequencies below 250Hz are somewhat omni-directional, provided you have "space" between that gear and the sub face then you should be able to hear it quite well. Having said that I'd consider a different layout eg: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-...llow-diyer.html http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-...-g35-coupe.html http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-...e-buildlog.html http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-...th-install.html

Go speak to Marty @ FHRX Studios (Sydney). He's a forum sponser @ Mobile Electronics Australia and does a pretty thorough instal. http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp...udios/index.asp

Subwoofer

Sorry m8 I meant workshop = Home garage/personal use, just like I use it for. Not to say it couldn't be used for pro workshop, it's pretty sturdy.

Good Jack: https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=J041 It's actually a tradequip jack. Double pump too not "super low" profile or light so best for the workshop (it's bigger than it looks) The SPI never made it to production if anyone bothered to contact the Oz Dist. I would also be dubious about supercheap Ally jacks as they've had so many recalls................. Also a true ally "racing" jack will only be rated to about 900kg. I found if the car was just a smidge too low for the jack, i'd just drive onto a peice of wood or wide paving brick under each wheel and that would gain enough height to get the jack under.

Cool no probs. It doesn't matter what you paid for it, + shipping and compliance. On the transfer papers there is a box for what you paid and one for market value. You pay stamp duty on the market value. That can be obtained from Redbook or a signed individual appraisal from a valuer. This will help you calc duty to be paid: http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/licensing/yourvehicle/1382.asp

9/10 the rear is the tyre that will get puntured, the front flicks the screw / nail etc and it punctures the rear. I would check to see if it fits the rear, On the rare occasion you get a front flat put a rear on the front and the spare on the rear, unless of course you have a staggered fitment then yer fooked . On a side note I know a lot of guys in the Car Audio Scene use "Tyre weld" the spare tyre in a can !!!!!