mosoto

Buy the best you can afford.

From what I've read on G35Driver, the VQ35DE can produce up to 450hp (335 kilowasps) when going F.I. before it bends conrods. Thats not so bad. I'd still build a stronger block with F.I. for P.O.M. and reliability.

I've said this before and in this case may be quite pertinent. IIRC Japan cars that are used for daily commuting are subjected to extremes of traffic congestion. They travel relatively short distances (by our standards) but take exceptional amounts of time to do so, hence the odometer reads low but the engine has seen a lot more running hours over it's lifetime.

Saw a Carribean Blue coupe stopped at the lights on the corner of Morley Drive & Tonkin Hwy heading North. About 3pm today.

Why bother with sourcing aftermarket, just get the Infinity option!!!!!

Just a quicky. About to get tyres and was wondering if my 03 V35 has TPMS or is this an infinity G35 optional thang? It pops up frequently on the G35driver site but no mention of it here, So I assume not a V35 option!!!!????

MICHELIN PS2 VREDESTEIN ULTRAC SESSANTA NITTO INVO FALKEN 452 Falken seem to be readily available but not the pick of the bunch. If you want a super quite HP tyre then any of the 1st 3 from what I can gather. I must admit this is not from experience but purely from researching the subject as I'm in the market for a good 20" tyre.

Looks Sweet xscape. What size & Brand tyres on those WORK wheels? Happy with that rubber?

http://www.splparts.com/main4/index.htm second item on page

May I suggest you just get a larger 16:9 screen and rotate it 90º. Your PC will have a dvd player, you dont need the JVC. you can also get A/C controllers for the PC, if you want to venture that far, but not necessary if you instal as per your mock up.

Not being a smartass just curious as to how that formula works? If 12kg/mm X 1.1 = 10.9kg/mm then 8kg/mm X 2.0 does not = 2kg/mm have I assumed that incorrectly?

May I suggest getting them installed with a switch. i've got the mirror dip on mine and its a major PITA. When you want to do a normal reverse and actually see where you are going you have to crank your head down to the door sill level just to see rearward. I don't park near kerbs and certainly wont with $7k worth of rims & tyres so it would be nice to be able to turn the feature OFF !!!!!!!. Now the auto window wind up would be useful. The times I've turned off the car, got out and realised the window is down........................

Understatement of the decade . $20k average higher than anyone else and you'd have to ask what warranty is worth that premium!!!!!!!! And the vehicles are not "pristine" to warrant the premium costs!!!! A work colleague knows the DP thru' motorsports and let's just say it was no "glowing" report.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html put in your stock tyre size on the left and the new size on the right starting with the rim size.

b.t.w guys there's two separate forum threads for Strut bars & Sway bars on G35 Driver that compares models from different manufacturers. Some strut bars will foul your bonnet whilst others may not give access to damper adjustable coilovers, worth doing some research.

If you order WORK wheels, be prepared for a wait. I ordered my GS1 at the end of April and they're on the docks and being delivered by courier this week. That's over 8wks.

Sooo..........There's a V series People mover? Oops sorry my bad, it's the name of the yard................

spring rates mean nadda unless combined with the damping of the shock. How the two work together determines the ride quality.

From what I've read so far (not experienced) cheaper coilovers will generally have poor and inconsistant valving/damping and spring rates which usually adds up to either a bouncy or harsh ride. Due to inconsistancies one corner of the car will react differently to the other, most of us wouldn't tell the difference but why compromise with a vehicle we are all paying good money for!!!!

As for the HD setup, they are cheap twin tube which generally means poor performing. Aim for monotube unless you are prepared to pay big bucks for a quality twin tube design.

Firstly what is it you want out of the coilovers? So far my research has led me to believe: If you're after the height adjustability and a Dailly Driver only (no track) then you can't go past Bilstein PSS10 If you are going to track the vehicle and have it as a DD as well then Cusco zero 2 or HKS Hipermax III (non sport) If you want to track the vehicle with the least amount of compromise between track and road then Ohlins DFV as the best (and most expensive) option. Of course there are options like Moton & Penske but they are usually out of the league of most mortals and overkill for a daily driver. a good read, check out the "to buy" list: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html some outdated info but a good reference: http://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-suspens...-w-updates.html Some reasons why these vehicles should maintain the OEM rear setup when purchasing kits: http://splparts.com/main4/parts/Z33/Suspen...CoiloverFAQ.htm

If you are replacing it no point in being gentle getting it off !!!! If it breaks atleast you'll know how to get the other off

I've not taken mine off but at a guess: Indent tab at the bottom is for a flat head screwdriver or sim tool to pry it away from the door panel. The studs all look interference fit into ferules. The tab at the base may be for a screw fixing and if so you'll likely need a long shank philips head screwdriver.

I've also decided to turn off the automatic mirror fold and save it for when I "may" park it in a tight space or parking lot. Apart from the novelty wearing thin, I've noticed when the side mirrors fold out the actual mirrors themselves don't always return to the preset position and I often have to re-adjust incar. Same applies with the "reverse tilt" on the mirrors, can that be turned off?

No drivers seat too. I find the drivers seat up & down or yaw adjustments don't always work.