mosoto

I may be wrong but thought I read the V8 supercars switched to E85 and had a world of issues until they got the tune right. I don't think the RON value is the issue, maybe it's the way the fuel burns which requires the vehicle to be tuned accordingly. I've also heard you will use a third more fuel if tuned correctly thus burning the cost advantage. So ultimately the only advantage to E85 on a standard vehicle would be your conscience effort to support the environment.

No suprise given that it's an abrasive compound. 3M do a lense repair kit I think

Not sure a higher RON value is going to make for a better or cleaner fuel. You can take a shit fuel and add octane booster and it still will be a shit fuel. I used Vortex for a while because it was close and easy but t.b.h. it's not that great. I've had better economy and much better performance from BP Ultimate. If I use anything else after ½ tank the difference becomes noticable.

Ah right. Sorry troops. I joined SAUWA via online payment last Thursday. So too late to have known the event was on.

I thought that was what I said................

BP ultimate, because it works.

DOH.........Joined SAUWA too late to receive notification. It was certainly a good day (weather) for it.

Not having experienced with legalities of mods, the only advice I can give you is fix / stamp a reference numbers to the parts requiring certification by an engineer. The Engineer should be able to advise which parts depending on the engineer you choose here: http://www.transport.wa.gov.au/mediaFiles/lic_IB-102M.pdf It has become apparant that Engineers certification means nadda unless you can prove the certificate refers to the specific part it was intended for. I'd get the engineer to cross reference his certification with the part number you have fixed / stamped to the mods. This will save the headache of argueing with "the plod" that the parts on the car are those that the engineer certified.

FWIW my local Autopro stocks the Jap BANDO belts 6PK1175 & 4PK940. I have Power Enterprise kevlar belts on their way.

Those part# are for standard belts yeah? Interesting, no listing here for the micro V Performance belts: http://www.gates.com/australia/downloads/d...folder=brochure If anyone is after performance belts : http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/products...timing_belt.htm you'll note the Z33 shares the same AC belt as the BNR34 as well as others.

I just might do that, My lads collection of HPI mags is gettin bigger than mine

There is no listing for an Australian part for the V35/350Z, hence the offshore link. Best call them and double check but failing that you'll have to order it from the US if you want the gates racing accesories belts

Hmmm that could be do-able on my part as I have a worn stock set. PM me the details as to what needs to be done.

In most cases you would undo the upper most bolt and fold the caliper forward exposing the pads for removal. Then compress the pistons back into the caliper. This may or may not be the case with yours depending on the mounting type

LOL even more reason to upgrade I don't have factory speakers so can't pass judgement on them but at 1ohm the sound quality would have to suffer immensely. I'd normally assume the midbass & tweeters have HP/LP caps and are wired in series to present a 4ohm load to the amp, If not then the factory amp is an impressive little kit to be able to load down to 1ohm

Is there a V35 Skyline coupe option on the cards?

So its 300watt RMS then, bridged 2 x 150watt using the passive crossovers will be plenty of power. Forget the rears, your daughter would be better running headphones off a dedicated rear screen, then you can still listen to music in the front.

I can guarantee almost any small form factor amp that has a substantial amount of genuine output is class D.

Alpine PDX: http://www.alpine.com.au/products/index.as...p;subsection=24 JL Audio: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps_pa...php?page_id=250 there are a host more but i CBF finding them for you.

I'm keen, send me some info pls Bird.

If thats 600w RMS (4 x 150w) then you won't have a problem. It's unlikely you will ever use it to it's fullest potential so you will have plenty of power on tap. If it were me I'd disconnect the rears and bridge the amp to run the fronts. Alternatevely you could keep it 4Ch and run the front active (without crossovers) if the head unit has the capabilities

P.P.S. and for gods sake stay away from anything labelled BOSS !!!!!!!!!

P.S. The speakers you've linked to are coax. In laymans terms the tweeter is mounted WITH the midbass driver. You want a component set where the midbass and tweeter are separate items. If the 250GT is the same as the 350GT then the factory locations are Midbass in the door and tweeter in the sail panel (behind the door mirror).

Home audio is 8Ohm, Generally car audio speakers are 4Ohm, I don't know where you guys got the idea it's 2Ohm. Some subs, in particular dual voice coils, are 2ohm so can be wired in series to make 4 Ohm or wired parallel to make 1Ohm. There are benefits and drawbacks for each, lower Ohmage draws more power output from the amplifier if the amp is capable of running lower ohmage. The downside is sound quality is reduced. Some would say that is not so crucial at lower frequencies BUT I certainly wouldn't be going less than 4ohm on your component ( front) speakers.

LOL was going to suggest that too.