mosoto

LOL says he with the rapidly depreciating asset with every V35/V36 imported. Anyway, age in relation to vehicle is largely dependant on value. When the V35 was first being imported you would be hard pressed to find a good one for under $50k. Not a Uni-Students first pick but certainly in the league of older gents or those in the mid 20's lucky enough to be earning good wedge. Now that the market is flooded with 03-05 models and prices have dropped considerably, so the demographic has widened / shifted and younger people are now able to afford these. The Shape of the car is also quite timeless, an example of this is so many people ask it's year of Manufacture and are often quite suprised when they learn it's 7yrs old. I personally chose the V35 for it's looks & practicality, I needed more than the two seats the 350Z had to offer and with the plethora of bolt ons available now, should I want additional performance then it's not too hard to source.

I suggest you have a read and get advice that may save you from a costly mistake: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html http://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-suspens...-w-updates.html

post #25

A case of GW shooting themselves in the foot. As Birds mentioned earlier, their lack of advertising & the GP's general attitude toward their lower end product did nothing to promote the high end group V product that we have recently come to respect, unfortunately all too late. The End is nigh, there is just not enough of us to float S6000 and keep it in production. We must face facts and buy up as much remaining stock for ourselves as possible

It just means that the importers over there haven't worked out how to wind the odometer back Mine has done 42,000kms..................apparently.

Carbon fibre can't stretch so I'm not sure how you arrived at your conclusion. The fact that there IS stretch around edges would give away it's vinyl. From a distance it doesn't look so bad but still no fan.

As long as you are aware the Nulon is not a full synthetic, they are actually false advertising. Like I said earlier, there is a thread on Oils here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...80#entry5234530

Any Gnu's

Gulf Western Sougi S6000. It's a classV fully Synthetic oil @ $80 for 5litres. There's a thread on oils worth reading

Awesome thanks Chris. PM the details if you wish.

Will have a look, thanks.

Needing the following trim pieces to suit 03/04 coupe, apologies if the descriptions are off: a) Centre console radio bezel (Blank - minus vents, stereo & A/C controls). b) Centre console Gearstick bezel (minus shifter boot) c) Footwell Kick panels L & R d) A pillar trim L & R. please PM what you have available. None of the above needs to be pristine condition as long as tabs / mounting points are intact. Thanks

Sway bars are without doubt the biggest improvement you can make on the V35's handling/cornering.

Bilstein is not standard

A fresh Oil change isn't so bad as completely drained you know how much has to go back in. It's between changes that makes it difficult to judge what the level is.

Not taking away from what's been said already BUT you should have a talk to Sydneykid. He will give you the most informed & experience backed response. If you want a superb ride for the V35 look into the Bilstien PSS9 or 10. Not a track coilover out of the box but I'm led to believe as good if not better than stock ride comfort wise. These as well as the cusco coilovers use the stock rubber upper mounts which avoids the "clunking" of pillowball setups along with contributing to the smoother ride. I'm using Ohlins (Japan) coilovers and the pillowball mounts started clunking within a month of having them installed. I'm rolling on 20's and ride wise the Ohlins are more firm than stock on softest setting but not uncomfortable or bouncy.

This has been my biggest bugbear with the VQ. Checking the oil is a major PITA. The dipstick is awkward to remove/instal and it's so difficult to get a consitant reading. You are not alone here cra-z-boy. daisu has the right method. Remove the dipstick, clean & WAIT for the oil in the tube to drain back. Also take a few readings and work on an average.

A little paranoia over the whole damage your paintwork trip. This process has been around for a while and is widely used on very expensive sports cars to protect the paintwork on track days. Emphasis here on getting the best quality product and having it proffesionally installed. http://www.decentlyexposed.com.au/home/aut...CFYsvpAodHSArEw

Not defending the stealership bUT If you look closer at the centre console and tops of the door cards the colour schemes are quite different. Not to say the dealer didn't change these but then why would he? Does look to have had a knock on the left rear quarter, paint matching seems a bit off unless it's the poor quality video.

Wouldn't matter with the insane amount of preservatives the japanese use.

I've got Yokohama Advan sport V103 all round. Very high grip & low wear factor but pretty quite on tarmac. I selected them out of the available "performance" tyres due to reports of their low noise. The Michelin PS2 are without doubt the winner for low road noise but are also one of the most expensive, V103 cost me $2800 for all 4 & that's as low as I could get them. If I can afford to I'd get them again. If not I'll look at some Nitto, Vredestein or Khumo.

Here's what it will cost you from Nissan Au Get one from Riverside Infinity in the states.

I found this the only inacuracy if replacing the window motor is included in that statement. I was quoted over $600AUD from Nissan australia. Part only, no installation!!!!! PS nice DIY btw

If it were me, Fast Intentions w/- Quad outlet.

As birds has stated, The cheap GW oil is what it is and is priced accordingly. The GW Sougi on the other hand is every bit the same as Motul but considerably cheaper. I will certainly use it again.