RBceffy25

No. As far as i am aware the combustion chamber in the head of the neo is smaller cc's than S1&2 25's. Talk to an engine builder for options. For this particular info I would reccomend Lewis Engines. They have pretty good knowledge when it comes to NEO's

Makes some sense but assuming everything else is up to scratch the stock solenoid should still be governing boost shouldn’t it? Makes sense but assuming everything else is up to scratch the stock solenoid should still be governing boost shouldn’t it? I would also assume (assumptions, ; ) the mother of all f**k-ups) that if your solenoid was faulty you would be getting inconsistent boost or free boosting or some sort of inconsistency

some dickheads attach an extra spring to the outside of the actuator which puts physical tension on the outside of the actuator arm and poppet which in turn keeps the poppet closed for longer, making it build more boost before the poppet actually opens. For example, It’s like having a 700gram spring actuator than changing it to 1kg spring without having to actually change the wastgate itself. Obviously this hasn’t been done as you can see from the photo. However there is another trick by shortening the length of the arm/rod on the actuator which doesn't allow the poppet to fully open which in turn makes the turbine spin faster, making more boost. Check to see if the rod has been cut and reattached by re-drilling and re-attaching it or it may have been cut and welded. As far as your vac lines go don't wait, just stick your ear up nice and close, with engine running and give all your vac lines (and I mean all of 'em not just the ones from the turbo) a wriggle and listen for hissing. They split very easily with the heat cycles they go through not to mention their age. Even if they appear to be in good condition, give them a flex and you may see slight cracks/splits in them. It’s almost like they become porous and spongy. Friends, family and I have all had dramas with dodgy vac lines causing boost control issues.

The stock stuff is absolutely not enough to cut it. I have just been through this with a Walbro, which shit itself then replaced it with Bosch 040 running at 13.3-13.45 volts @ Idle. FAAARRKEN NOISY! but it does its job : ) Standard voltage was something like 11.0 volts @ idle. You have to remember that these aftermarket pumps 'alleged' power rating (e.g. Walbro is claimed to be 255lph, 500hp pump) is only relevant when running at full volts/potential. So when it runs at below this, like mine was, I think from memory the rating for the walbro dropped to something like 190lph. Pathetic. So regardless of what everyone else states, including some manufacturers/distributers etc, You must re-wire, as stated above. On a sides note, I am certain this all has something to do with nissan having it wired like this as to reduce pump noise but this may only apply to GTR's. Please, anyone, correct me if im wrong here.

Check to see if the actuator has been modified. Only other thing i can think of is closely inspect and or replace all your vacume lines.

Pics of the front side indicator? I'll take it if it good.

Its an aftermarket gauge holder man. Google image search it. As for this cage its not a ceffy cage. its a laurel cage. I have fit a ceffy cage in a laurel and it fit (just) but pushed up the roof in the center. pulled it out for my ceffy. i have seen this cage with my own eyes and a can tell you its a laurel cage as its a loose fit through-out the whole cabin. I is no where near the roof or pillars. I have measured the dimensions in the cabins of both cars and they vary slightly. And yes I realize it has sold. Just some info for Ya'll!

My brother has a C33 and I, an A31 both in our possesion. I just tried fitting my AUTECH skirts to the C33 and no they do not fit as the rear wheel arch is a different shape BUT other that that it is a good fit at the front end. If you cut/modify the rear section they may work. However his WONDER kit fits my A31 nearly perfect. Honestly i would just keep hunting around on various forums and try contacting parts importers around the country to see if they can source you something if they don't have anything in stock. I will try to organise some pics if you want.

I use an 040 and its awsome. As far as I know it is well capable of over 300kw. As far as external goes forget about a bosch. You want to use a Pierburg push/pull external pump. These are an in-line style pump so no need for surge tank/swirl pot, no lines in boot, no fuel smell in cabin etc, etc. For more info contact EFI Performance.

2nd that!

C'mon people! WTF! We need more events up this way! Lets get this happening eh! Please can we organise some sort of nissan cruise for south-east qld? (or something of the like) I know im not the only one.....C'MON!

oh yeah... by the way, I have ABS and i use one.

yep yep yep.

Absolutely! However on a dickhead-technicle point of view painting your core can add a layer of insulation possibly impeding the coolers efficiency and depending on how much you hide it may defeat much of its purpose all together. Eg. my cefiro front bar is all hacked up in order for it to fit an get some reasonable flow but as a result it does, admittedly, look a bit ricer. My genuine AUTECH kit will fix this (I have removed air-con but my front end is all pushed back and out of whack. Fences will do this). But for the most part I absolutely agree! All depends on the individual i guess.

go tha bosch. headroom pays! as long as you dont mind some noise... Not to mentionm its peace of mind as its brand new.

Not to mention XR6T's and Evo's all use em as standard. I realize however it has more to do with modifying from the original SMIC set-up but as you said how will they police it?

let us know how you go.

Regardless, he did it and we all saw it. Of course this wasnt the actual tune he finished with. It was to see what the limits were of the stock gear and as i said everything was at there absolute limit. Yes, there are many variables but on that particular day, on that dyno blah blah blah thats what that particular enging achieved.

You may have installed it wrong. http://www.naikontuning.com/det_tec/wp-con...-sbc-spec-s.pdf That s the link for the install manual. It says the top port is to be left open as it needs to bleed of boost in order to control it. Makes sense to me. Also have you left your standard solenoid plugged in? Also make sure you have the head unit switched to WG for external wastegate. Hope this helps.

I second that! your popping exhaust might also be a leaking gasket.

pics Rb, left SR, right

I would do it as more of a security precaution rather than for performance if you intend to run 10psi or more. You really don't want detonation wich can occure very easily with 25's due to ther higer compression ration over most other turbo enginges that are commonly around these days (i think it around 9.0:1). Keep intake temps down at all costs I say! I have just fitted a HDi cooler kit to my ceffy and i can honestly say that it feels as if there has been more gains in performance than anything else. Throttle response has maybe slightly improved (hard to tell honestly) if anything. Actually the only problem i've had is R&R on cold nights. other than that she goes like a shower of shit. I think its also worth noting that (yes I am going by 'seat of the pants' feel) the car definately feels faster around factory boost (7-8psi), about as fast as it did with the stock side-mount on 10psi. However i will mention I was using the shitty little ceffy cooler. Think about the physics of it. Cooler air=more dense air=more fuel=more power. Thats my understanding anyway. Please, anyone correct me if i'm wrong in any way. Cheers.

Very interesting as my ceffy came from japan rev limited not speed limited. Can anyone shed some light on this?

What makes you say that? Have you tried? I havnt done this personally but I know a guy who has. form memory He made 302rwhp on S1 RB25DET maxing the shit out of the injectors and running 16-17psi. I'm not saying its a good thing but yes as it has been stated multiple time, it can be done.

sound like coil packs mate. Are they still the standard items?