Hanaldo

Pretty sure you're not allowed to post as an auction, need to post a set price. If you're selling for $300 then I'll take it

Stainless or mild steel?

Just make sure you get an ECU that can control timing and ignition as well as fuel maps

My definition of being chased up ^

Lol, yeh I doubt it because the government isn't going to know that you are fixing them up unless you are registered with them as a business or trader. They are just going to see you buy said vehicle, then sell said vehicle for profit further down the track. Once or twice they might let that go, but you keep doing it then I bet they are going to chase you up for it. James, that is probably why you got a letter... Haven't you sold every car you have ever bought for a profit lol?

Also going to say don't bother with the 20E, it will seriously be a torque-less shitter, even at low power. But if you're really set on it, would not a standard RB20/25DET manifold fit? Never seen an RB20E so I don't know what they look like, but I would have though they are the same engine externally?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/tu...N-A-t33407.html

Hahaha yeh, if anyone is going to know, it will be James How long until you sell the M3 you reckon James? Hehe

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...be-t144131.html

Solved ^

Great stuff, good to hear other people know the effects of silicon on paint So where do you buy this stuff from? Seeing your car, I'm definitely keen to spend a bit extra to really look after my car. Do you buy it online?

You did all of that before getting an ECU? Nistune. Nuff said.

Lol, you haven't read many of Rowan's posts before have you? Anyway, wouldn't be much point Rowan, you would be better off just buying some more stock injectors, some that aren't absoluteFUCKERSTHATNEEDTOBURNIN ETERNAL HELL FUCK

Yeh, exactly what I have. Then I've got the ARK MFD to give me readings on injector duty, exhaust temperature, and other vitals

Don't let thinners dry on the fibreglass, will cause the problem all over again. You gotta make sure you really clean all the thinners off. Plenty of water, and a fairly good rub down with 600 grit will get rid of it all. Yes, should all be pretty much one process if possible, don't sand between coats unless you get a run and you need to let the paint dry to sand it off. If you get the layer perfect, move onto the next layer before it dries. So you spray the primer, will probably take about 5 coats before it stops soaking in, and then spray the black, then the clear. You want to let the layer underneath set a little bit but not go dry before you spray the next layer, if you get that lol? Probably won't even take 5 minutes. A good way of doing it is if you are spraying the eyelids on some newspaper, use the oversprayed paint on the newspaper as an indicator of when to do the next coat. When it is a little bit sticky still, but not wet, that is when you want to spray the next coat. Just before touch dry.

Yeh you should be spraying the base coat paint before the primer actually dries. The thing with primer is it soaks into the material, so you have to put quite a lot of primer on until you can clearly see that it isn't being absorbed anymore. And then you want to spray the base coat before the primer dries so that they chemically bond. You shouldn't need to sand unless you are fixing something like a run, or the layer has gone completely hard and the layers need to be physically bonded rather than chemically. Your problem sounds like either silicon or the paints are attacking each other which is pretty common when you use wax & grease remover. I advise you start again. Completely remove everything with paint thinner, get rid of everything on it until you can see the base layer. Now do a REALLY good job of cleaning it, and even lightly scuff it with 600 grit sand paper. You need to make sure there is absolutely no thinners left on it. Now spray the primer again, doing what I said so you can see that it is no longer being absorbed into the eyelids. Primer is pretty forgiving, you can use a lot of it. Once you are happy with your primer coats, apply the base coat paint just before the primer is touch dry. This will allow the primer and the paint to chemically bond to each other. Do the same thing with your clear coat if you are using any. Feel free to check out my album of things I have painted http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/al...d16373c642972e1

Do you know if that Final Inspections Sealant Range is silicon based? ^^ Being a hobby spray painter, I've seen what silicon based waxes and polishes can do to your paint, don't wanna use it on my car. But if that stuff isn't silicon based then it looks great!

My park lights are pretty blue, I'm pretty sure they aren't blinding any oncoming traffic... And they look fkn awesome. Nothing like neons

Lol yeh, I recommend not painting on days as cold as this. Really ruins your coat. A good way of stopping a lot of dust is to make your whole garage damp. You don't need to soak the place, just lightly damp so that all the dust is weighed down and won't go flying around. Careful with this method though because moisture really isn't good for paint either... Also use your spray gun to spray some air around to blow off the majority of the dust from the bumper, and then use a clean cloth and lightly spray it with paint (not much, just so the cloth is sticky), and rub the bumper down with that. Should get rid of most of the dust. Post some pictures up when you're done mate, keen to see how you go

Lol, yehhhhh Rhys, punish the tyres!

Can't be bothered reading all of that if you can't be bothered structuring or spelling properly... Anyway, first I was referring to your comment about Holden and Ford drivers, that is a huge generalization that is in no way correct. You probably made it in jest, I wasn't really having a go, but it is an incorrect generalization none the less. And secondly, to say that you will not get pulled over is also blatant ignorance. Read the comments in this thread alone, if that isn't enough for you then feel free to have a harder look throughout the forums. There are plenty of occasions where people have been pulled over for 'RBTs' or when they were not doing anything wrong. Like me personally, I have been pulled over for no reason twice... I didn't say you were wrong about being pulled over if you drive like a dickhead, obviously that highly increases your chances of being pulled over. I was talking about the generalizations that you made that express outright ignorance. And finally, I believe freedom of speech goes both ways, you are allowed to express your opinion and I am allowed to tell you that you are wrong. Hence free. So maybe chill out a little bit, I didn't attack you like you attacked me. I simply pointed out that your statement was incorrect.

Yeh I sort of though that would be the case. But I would probably replace the steel wool (or at least clean it off) every now and then anyway, I'm a bit pedantic about the maintenance of my car

Ah ok, gotchya

Thanks for that Phil, clarifies a few things for me. But even still, wouldn't air filter do a better job of providing a surface area than the steel wool?

I have no idea what that means, but I like your signature picture