GT-Ricer

Thanks Martin, I jumped the gun a bit by wanting to pass on the goods news to my mate, 09GTR. The car is good again and whether I sell it or keep it I wanted to make sure that it is perfect and I am not passing on any lingering issues to the next guy. This is quite the opposite to what some knockers acused me of. Unbelievable!

Correct, not bad, but it took time, money and effort on everybody's part. Relative to big budgets run by major car manufactures anything else done by aftermarket tuners no matter how good they are or how ambitious, will always be classified as "shoe string budget". It is not an insult but a fact and in this case a compliment Thank you for pointing it out.

We swapped the TF to Willall Victory Specification ( yes, the "chocolate milk" I mocked needed shaking for 5 minutes LOL) ; clutch settings TP A =0, TP B = +3, CC A =0, CC B =0. My car again feels pretty much stock , maybe with smoother gear changes, up 1-2-3-4-5-6 and down-5-4-3-2-1. Launch from stand-still is very good, nice wheelspin, maybe a little bog, but at gentle traffic light take-off, about 80% without a second step, 20% of the time in two short steps. To refresh my memory I also tested a stock car with stock TF back to back, and my car was smoother. My buddy did too and he agrees. When cold, say down to 17C overnight, it still kicks like a mule first thing in reverse or first gear, but by the time the tranny warms up a bit, say 30C+ its OK and smooth. As far as the sale is concerned, I am still testing the water and have not quite decided what I want to do yet. I am not what you might call a "motivated seller" and that's why my price is fairly non-negotiable and not a give-away bargain to tempt tyre-kickers. I am looking at the 911 Turbo or GT3, but to tell you the truth, after washing my GT-R yesterday and taking it for a spin to dry the brakes, I thought I must be raving mad to even think of getting rid of it! I might need counselling... PM me if you want more info.

Ouch..that hurt...not How dare I? How dare you ? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and nobody will buy this car without inspecting it and checking it's history. This topic was about wrong transmission oil which affected a great car. There was never anything wrong with the car itself! Are you confused? Have a lie down, you won't buy my car and I would not sell it to you. It is so sad to see the tall poppy syndrome alive and well and at it's worst.

Wow..you have outed me! What mechanical woes? The problem has been resolved and there were never any mechanical woes with the actual car, just wrong transmission oil which has been swapped. Before you cast aspersions on others, learn to read English carefully: I wrote "Never raced Bridgestone Tyres..." I have not claimed the car was never on the track. I have a second set of wheels and tyres for that very purpose and the ones I am selling the car with have never been raced or on the track and only saw street use! The car was never raced indeed but has been to two Burrows Drive days, which I am pretty confident the likes of you will never get invited to. What is your point? Are you suggesting that I am dishonest? Shame on you.

If you read my previous posts you would see that Martin and I are already working on a solution together with the "installer". There is no secrecy between me and Martin, Thank you for your concerns. As soon as we work out the best settings we will post.

If you drove my car earlier, you would not say I was being sensationalist. My tech said it was the worst he had experienced. As far as the complexity is concerned, that is a fair comment. However, why should any customer provide the manufacturer of mods with free R&D? I already swapped the oil twice, plus spent the time with the tech playing with his computer while I drove my car around. So did 09GTR and others. The techs charge me, not the TF supplier, $300 per hour +GST every time they touch my car. Add the cost of the TF and we are coming close to $1600. And that is not counting my time...I work too! Swapping the TF grade at no charge or providing free advice on the phone is appreciated but in the end I have to pay for all those experiments to find the correct balance between viscosity and tranny/ clutch settings. Still, hang the expense, as long as I get my car back to a reasonably smooth launch, I will be happy. That's the kind of guy I am, "Mr Reasonable"... Martin certainly tries hard to please his customers. Some things are just beyond his control.

And it would smell like a serving of fries at the Golden Arches too...what a treat!

I am not your mate, mate! If you are looking for a forum where only uncritical praise by a society of mutual admiration is lavished on every mod offered on the market, look elsewhere. Nobody is bad mouthing anybody here. If sometihing does not work as advertised, and it cost over $1200 to make a perfectly good car drive like a dog, nobody is going to keep quiet. Going back to the manufacturer would not solve anything and help anybody else with the same problem. Martin is a big boy and does not need apologists like you to prop him up. As it turns out, I am working with Willall on a solution and will post results when the trial is finished and a final conclusion can be reached on what TF is best for the R35. You can fill your R33 with canola oil for all I care.

If your speedo indicated 250kph on 630mm wheels, it is actually only 221kph on 712 mm stock wheels for which the speedo is calibrated. My totally stock car does 243kph at 100m mark before Turn1 at EC. Your car should be good for 250kph+ on stock 20" tyres or 285kph on those 18" skateboard wheels...LOL

Because they're round...?

WR35TMVS has a label... this is truly fascinating but what does it have to do with the WR35TM jerking my car around?

WHAT WARNINGS? What am I missing here, is there some outer wrap on these cans that the dealer has removed?

Are you certain you put "WARNING" on all your Transmission Fluid cans? Here are two cans we used recently. There is only one label on both of them, no warnings what so ever, as is plain to see, so I am a little confused. The cans were emptied, without a thick lump of precious solid left at the bottom, so let's not clutch at straws, shall we? Clutch, hm....that's seems to be the operative word.

You are kidding, right? It's not chocolate milk, you know! By now the chocolate would have got churned thoroughly inside the tranny, don't you think? My car jerks so bad now that I am too scared to drive it in the traffic... and I am a brave man!

Yes I would like it swapped and I will contact you directly this week, thank you. BTW, my post on NAGTROC attracted so far 1406 views, 41 posts, including 5 OEM and 7 Willall jerky starts, so I am not making it all up. First you advised me to induce more creep ie + TP and then reversed it to less creep ie -2TP and it has not worked. This is clearly not the strongest point of your TF and you have no warning on your web site or product that it might/will happen. I am fully aware that this is not a cruiser but it may surprise you that it does not do any of the weird things you've described. Your TF performs well by all acounts and that's why I bought it, but it just does not give a smooth enough drive on the streets, so if you have a different grade Oil that will offer the same protection but no jerky starts, great. You cannot blame me, though, for wanting to hear other owners' experiences and this is a public forum just for that.

That would be excellent, Martin. I was quite happy before with the OEM TF. Will you pay the workshop to have the TF drained and refilled with WR35TML? If it still does not work to my satisfaction, will you then do it again and re-fill with OEM TF? Or can we just get a full refund and forget future experiments? I am in Sydney, not Adelaide.

Ha, ha, ha,...now you tell me! You should have posted earlier to let everyone know as soon as you discovered how crap it was on the streets, like I did, both here and on NAGTROC. Almost eveyone is now coming out of the woodwork to tell their stories. I think most people feel reluctant to admit they just spent a couple of grand on mods which are less than what they'd expected. As they say in America, "If you see something, say something" BTW, I only bought the Willall fluids after I saw all those cans lined up in Stewart's office ready to go into you car! And my car wasn't even due for a new TF or DF. I think we all deserve what we get if we continue to get sucked in by under-researched and underdeveloped "mods" done by tuners on a shoe-string budget (relatively speaking, as compared to the budgets of major auto makers' , of course). They focus on one performance aspect, which interests the tuner, but neglect the rest and the overall balance is never as good as OEM. It's like choosing slick tyres to drive on the streets. Sure they are great, but where can you use them in daily driving? I don't do enough track days in a season to use up this TF so it will be a total waste draining it out now.

We did the exact settings you gave me: TP: A -2 / B -2, CC: A +2/ B+2. I didn't have an actual appointment so after waiting for half an hour the tech agreed to give me just a few minutes it took to put in these exact settings. Now that it did not work, we will have to come back and spend some quality time together, with both of us in the car dialing-in different values until it suits me. Why does the GT-R stab the clutch repeatedly in 1st but does it in a smooth, linear fashion in Reverse? Is it so that we do not burn it with launches and in stop-start traffic?

We adjusted my clutches today as you suggested. Stock set up was: Touch Points A = 0, B= 0 and Clutch Capacity A= 0, B= 0 My car still hops three times on slow take off, maybe 10% less harshly than before, so it has not been successful. Changes between gears, up or down, are smooth and firm, oddly, less harsh than at 0/0 setting, despite increased pressure. What I cannot understand is why my car is silky smooth in reverse, no different to a full automatic torque converter feel, but cannot be smooth in 1st? Does it use a different clutch for reversing?

Thanks Martin, that's great - we will start off with these values. If we get a different outcome in my 09 ADM, we will have to spend more time fine tuning it. Let's hope your settings work first time. You are right about the clutch in the Evo X. It was very slack before but now it bites like a pitbull and we get good wheel spin. Our Evo bolts off the mark like a scolded cat!

I knew you would say that You could be right to a degree. Most guys in the US did not notice any gains in the acceleration times no matter how extreme or mild the upgraded clutch settings (TP and CC) On the other hand, our Evo X went from 5.2 sec to 4.6 sec 0-100kph only with cat back HKS exhaust ,no tune, and Willall TF. Evo X clutches were very slippery before the changeover, so the gains are very dramatic. I don't expect to shave off 0.6 sec of 3.7 sec my car did before the changeover to Willall TF.

I stand corrected, our EVO X has Willall TF only, which is what prompted my interest. My son loves it in his Evo so I thought, why not try it in the GT-R? I have not experienced any issues with my diffs, before or after the changeover. It could be the placebo effect, but my diffs seem to sound a little less noisy when I hear them driving down my driveway with the driver's window open. There is also a little less shunting noise coming from the tranny under the rear seats, but I have installed heavy duty sound proofing so it's hard to tell. I will get my Nissan tech to come for a ride with me and adjust the clutch TF this week. I hope it's all good and the new settings don't dull the performance too much. I use the GT-R mainly when I am alone and on the track. My wife prefers to be driven in the comfort of a bigger car, but I still want a sports car that is driveable in the city traffic, and not a dedicated "white knuckle" track-only machine. I will post the outcome of the TP adjustment. Watch this space!

The source of the product is immaterial, it came from your can ...LOL. Suffice to say it was drained and re-filled by a trained professional. Today I asked my son who has the equivalent TF and DF Willall fluids in his EVO X to drive it and he was shocked by how jerky my car has beacome. He still tried to convince me that I want my car a bit more edgy...I don't think so! It is now almost impossible to drive it in the marning or afternoon rush hour, stop starting at 25-35 kph. You almost feel you're going to hit someone in front of you any second. I am wondering what will happen to my launches if we dial in more creep and the clutch is full engaged at 700RPM even before I touch the throttle. Will my car stall, long before reaching 3000RPM against the brake if the clutch is fully engaged sooner or will pressing the brake disengage it? I would have thought, from my manual days, that you would want more slip in the clutch before full engagement to achieve a gradual take off. Surely,if you step off the manual clutch with light throttle, that is when you get the "learner driver's bounce". Isn't the GT-R clutch designed to increase the pressure gradually rather than on-off-on-off at light throttle take off? That is how it feels now.

It's all very well but I don't have COBB AP and my car creeps at idle already. Do we have to induce some slippage into the clutch setting? How will this slippage affect all other gear changes, other than engaging 1st for take off?