Nic_A31

Isnt the rule of thumb you have to be able to deflate all tyres and nothing be touching the ground + atleast 100mm clearance on anything under the car, including body kits, wires, etc ??

BEFORE you buy it, not alot of options. RAC Reports are pretty useless, but better than nothing, You could ask the seller to take it to a RAWS and have a report done up, unlikely they'd comply though. Get the VIN and engine number and run a REVS check, ask any mates you've got to have a look with you, some members on here might even offer you some help depending on your location??

Assessors are like police, every one has their different morales, get them chatting and they'll like you enough (or just be too distracted) to notice your flaws Morley, FAILED: someone stepped onto the road, assessor beat me to the brakes FAILED: doing 55 in 60 zone in left lane, "holding up traffic" + parked in middle of empty car park, unmarked bay, "disabled bay!!!" Both times are Morley I was nervous like a mofo, despite the first assessor trying to make conversation I was quiet, didnt help at all Midland: PASSED: Auto, missed multiple blind spots, didnt leave gap between cars at lights, Made conversation and showed courtesy (leaving gap in left lane stalled traffic for oncoming lane traffic to exit main road), etc PASSED; Manual, stalled and grinded gears repeatedly, rolling backwards and fowards in traffic, missed blind spots, Made conversation, and again showed courtesy and common sense behind the wheel.

Indicators - FIXED, that stupid mofo connection was playing up again, flashing the bulb, but somehow was the reason for quick flashing. Still no Auto on the headlights. One more thing noticed. I have two of the highbeam symbols on my gauge cluster, one points left, illuminates blue when the high beams are turned on, the other faces right, and ONLY WHEN THE CAR IS COLD, illuminates red when the brake pedal is pressed, once the car is warmed, it stops. The colder the car, the more pressure is required to illuminate the car, before its fully warmed up, it comes on exactly the same time as the brake lights. Does anyone dare to suggest ANYTHING at all? Doesnt matter how far-fetched your idea is... I'm getting my ass handed to me by a 21 year old Japanese sedan...

OK, so my battery died the other day, I re-charged it and the auto headlights don't work. Turning the headlights to on works just fine, as do high beams and parkers, so no drama's. Soon after that, my indicators are acting strange, I searched, but not much help. Left side is fine, right side flashes super quick on it's own, and hazards flashes both equally. I walked around the car with both sides on independantly, and with the hazards, all bulbs are working fine. Checked every fuse (need to print me up one of those English stickers), and they all appear intact (I've learnt from experience that a fuse can "look" fine but still be f**ked), so I'll have to go through and replace fuses, one at a time to see if any difference is made. The only reason I can think one side would flash faster is to do with a dead bulb. If as fuse is dead, they should all be out, all the bulbs are fine, so resistance should be fine, therfor the flash rate should match ?? Are the indicators in ANYway linked to auto lights ?? Any advice on either or both problems? Cheers guys

+1 on this. It's all sweet and dandy until you hurt someone, the DPI throws the ball back to you and whoever you injured gets to take your ass to court for as much money as they see fit.

You dont exactly buy em off eBay and just chuck them on....search for fabricators instead

Midland, big guy with the beard, the friendly looking one. You lose your license or something ??

I've heard of different fines from different people, ranging from being let off, to copping a fine close enough to driving without a license. Tell your mate to get his manual license, problem solved. I had my auto and needed my manual for work, assessor told me I suck at manual, couldnt shift for shit and counted how many times I stalled, he told me I could have it because he knew I'd get practice driving for work.

Anyone tried re-soldering ? I know you think its not the board, but I've fixed alot of "shorting" by resoldering boards on my Nissans. The factory mass produced stuff was all done by machine, any human hand can do a better job.

VQ40DE+T

It ended up being ONE orange plastic clip that holds the weather seal to the door, it was on the driver's door, just below the strut. i've got one or two left over, but pretty sure Im missing a few more than just the two. I suppose Nissan want $3.00 each for them ??

Bump. WTF is "Phone"

Stealerships will offer you a third of what they will try to sell the car for, You and the next owner both get ripped off, and they laugh all the way to the bank. Put it for sale on forums, it'll go to a better home, and you'll get what you want for it.

Connections. Mine were playing up. Fuses good, bulbs were good, wiring was good. Unplug the connection, blow it out, and reconnect it, push as hard together as you can, I found on mine, just because it "clicks" in, doesnt mean its in properly. I had to push it in a tad further, havent had drama's since. Stupid wiring connectors.

Alot easier than people tell you it will be, but easier said that done. Plan it Apply The app comes back, telling you exactly what you need to do, take it to any fabricators if neccesary, or go ahead with the work, take it over the pits, and yeah, you should go all good hopefully. With the application, dont be scared of "out there" idea's, they dont judge it by "thats going to be an idiots car" or "yes thats fine", if they can see you know your shit and you put safety before moron performance, they'll give you a green light. Alot of people told me applying for a J30 Maxima RWD conversion would never be approved by the DPI, but hey, I proved that to be wrong, not that I've taken that idea any further. Try for an RB30 if you want, just focus on making it afe, reliable, and do a proper job and take your time, then the DPI guys should be easy on ya.

Upgradding a R33 to R33 GTR is easier, because that counts as installing "optional engine", "optional transmission", etc, bascially its the same car with all the fruit, but again, go the whole nine yards and be safe. An RB30 is a different story, the power to weight ratio will be different on your R33, and R31 brakes wont pass over the pits, so you'll need something bad-ass, ring the guys at the DPI for more info on that. Crossmembers can be fabricated for about $500 each w/ certs, at the most (no, anyone who tells you otherwise is a tosser who can't do homework) and just have them made to use the stock mounts so you dont need to use customs. The rest should be all sweet, rims have their limits, and unless you want a huge 40 inch Suburu style bonnet, you're fine. VSB 1 through 14 http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/veh...etin/index.aspx Modification Application (Light (Production) Vehicles) http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/mediaFiles/lic_modform_prodveh.pdf

More info? What kind of mods? Basic mods, just download an app form off the DPI website or ring up/go into centre and get one. Bigger mods require a Light (Commercial) Vehicle Modification Application or whatever they're called, which needs approval before mods can begin, from there, you need to download additional 'VSB14' sheets, and fill out appropriate forms relevant to the modifications, taking them with you to the pits along with engineering documents to get them passed. (This only applies for big shit like engine swaps, chassis/body modifications, etc). Once you get your mods passed, thats it, cops don't really have ground for a sticker. VSB14 also covers what IS and ISNT legal, nothing specific, but it denotes legal power-to-weight ratio's, types of swaps you can do, outlines the limits of chassis mods, defines what brakes, suspension, steering, etc are required when modifying, etc.

Checked all the seals quickly and did some laps, the thunder sounds a little different, not as loud but a little more frequent, steering wheel is giving some feedback when driving, is kind of pulling a little bit, but usually not much unless the diff wants to jump around. Guess its time to check wheel allignment + tire pressure, and if that atleast sort of helps, get my suspension out of the way first ?? Cefiro + Wet Roads = Awesome

Got it from Queensland, and no paint at the moment. The story of my car goes a little something like this: Low KMs, so I would assume imported recently, rego'd in NSW in 2006, it ended up in QLD sometime, I found this link: https://cars2.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Cefiro-Tur...emZ130300698767 (click no to the prompt to view page properly) Althought it sold for $1500, that Seller has a bad rating for "didnt sell at listed price and relisted item at higher price" or something, so i dont know how much it sold for, in those photo's, it appears the same condition as the photo's from the page I bought it from http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Cefiro-rb20-...%3A1%7C294%3A50 Although it is now listed as having a HD Clutch, and unlike the first sale, doesnt state that the car "starts first time", "just needs a service", but now has an exhaust leak. Car runs fine, the exhaust leak is throwing hot air right into the filter, so combustion is shithouse, but it runs, it struggles to start, almost like its cold or the battery isnt big enough, but yeah, starts and runs. My compliance plate cert's an RB20DE and Auto, but its got a turbo and 5 speed, the first sale listed these. The conversion looks pretty clean and overall well done, but another problem Ive run into, need a new compliance plate, or bigger brakes to match the turbo 5 speed models to pass pits. EDIT: First sale ended April 27, sold for lack of stage space Second sale to me was on May 14, again, lack of stage, needed money for upcoming 30th and was moving house when I let him know the car arrived here in WA Im hoping this car hasnt been thrashed too badly. What do you guys reckon ? I'm just about to go and check all the door seals I fitted the other night before I noticed the sound for the first time, hopefully my paranoia ends at that, will updated in a few hours. -Nic

I was going to suggest Torque Fabrication in Midland/Midvale, but up your way, better luck around Welshpool, Kewdale, Canningvale, etc

Havent looked during daylight, but it all appears ok under the work light. VIN number is still on the car, so good sign....I guess. The front suspension is low and stiff (cant fit 2 fingers between wheel and fender), the rear is...well, stock height if I ever saw it, and pretty loose, factory or slightly lower I guess, can't really tell if its uneven on one side, but the car drives pretty straight, doesnt sway away unless the diff is skipping, and even then, it co-operates. Sound isnt audible at -60, havent tested it at 80-100+ yet, dont fancy pushing my luck that far with the thing until it's properly rego'd. Sounds like that thunder sound when you're driving with the sunroof open all the way back, but since resealing all the doors and making sure the sunroof is closed, the sound is still present. Will jack it up and have a look for any welds/ghetto repair attempts Cheers Dude

A few fabricators around that could do it for sure. Where in Perth are you?

I know the "service manual" question has been covered before more than once, but before I go buying any off the internet, do any of these manuals have chassis alignment diagrams in them? I've got some vibration somewhere above 60, and the car was sold stupidly cheap to the guy that sold it to me, so I've got a bad feeling about it. On top of that, anyone know if there is anywhere I can check to see if the car has been "structurally" written off by any insurance companies? Can I ring the DPI and check for that kind of info ?? Even if there are diagrams out there in Japanese, that'll do, numbers are easy to translate. Anyone? Cheers -Nic

Is the seal available from Nissan seperately? Ive seen in other Nissan forums people have had to buy all new glass just to get a new seal because theyre stuck on there real good.