Nic_A31

Current: Connector has room for 6 but only uses 4 New loom: Room for 5, only uses 4 MAFS has like, 5 pins? or 6? Guess I'll just have to re-wire

Exhaust leak almost fixed. I bought a new manifold, I thought it was just a shinny AM one, but a few mates reckon its all ported and nifty shit. Cost me $330, its on eBay for about $250 (doh!) So when taking the old manifold off, I was taking the bolts off and got to the end where the leak was, went to take the bolt off and it just fell out of the block. f**k-Nuts, half the stud was still inside the block, and its the close to the firewall, seing as I couldnt fit a drill in there, a fellow SAUWA member came round with compressor/right angle air drill, we drilled the whole way through the studd (accidentally, I was hoping to only go 80-90% through, so not to damage anything inside the block), tried a regular extractor with no luck, but a sqaure/wedge type extractor did the job perfectly, came out in under 2 minutes. So, there was no exhaust leak, just no stud, but it had 4 gaskets there to minimize the noise. Thats one more dodgey fixed. Can't wait for new studs to arrive and get that new manifold in, hear what it sounds like without the leak, with cleaned pipes and the BOV reconnected properly. --------------- Can anybody clear this up for me? I bought another ECU loom, to eliminate the dodgey wiring at the ignition, but I found that the new RB20 loom doesnt connect to my MAFS. Apparently the connectin is the same, both in the clip and the wiring pin order. Can anybody tell me what I have fitted on previous loom, current loom, and where the MAFS is from ?? I cant find any re-wiring in the current loom for the MAFS at all, it appears to be an RB20 loom, as every other connector matches the new loom I bought. Were the Mass Air Flow Sensors different between early and late model RB20s ?

+1 for what MLCrisis said above, read through the documents before you believe "40'000KMS - super low KMS!!". They write words in Jap but usually numbers are in English, so you can identify KMs, '100'000km' service tags, etc On Friday I was driving through Maddington/Kenwick and for the first time noticed a particular yard hard a shitload of Skylines...like, all I could see out the front was Skylines. Didnt catch a name or number, but its where Albany Highway / Kelvin Road (Had a look on Google Street/Maps, can't see anything, but it was definately there), it was on the same side, and around about where that Yank dealer is with all the Corvette's n shit. Somewhere around 1800-1900.

The bird at Repco (only place I could get them on a Sunday) noted the square set is chepaer because apparently lower quality and rarely work.....hmmmm

Got the f**ker out with Adam's help (Living Legend that bloke is) Dispenced about half a small can of WD40, drilled the whole way through the stud, then tried a screw extractor (the round windey type), which didnt work, I had a small set of different type of extractors that are like a square set, you hammer them in and twist. Worked like a charm. The drill ended up being off centre. The regular extractors were slipping at both ends, so advice for anyone follwoing, or anyone who ends up in this thread in the future (searching, google, whatever) is to use the squarred wedge in type.

The white car looked like a Laurel? No pillars from what i remember watching last night (cant re-watch now, at work )

Like WRXs and EVO's, except they look like a girl's ride with girly ricey sneezies. Do agree though, that fully hektik sound doesnt match the VLs. Something you'dexpect from Jap imports?

f**k yeah!!

Buy I say

Does it have to be a Skyline ? There are other Nissan vehicles around, if you want something different. Think 4 doors Laurels, 2 door Leopards, 2 seater 300ZXs

Isnt Angr33 an S2 GTS-T? or is it a S1 ?? Thats for sale for like, $14k last time I checked? or less now?

...... LOL If you do find someone, let me know. I need to replace all mine on the Ceffy and I'm thinking the stealership is the only option for such an uncommon import. I imagine you'd have a better chance finding one with a windshield mob for an R33 since theyre about as common as slappers in Northbridge on a Saturday night.

Torrent it, or I can burn and send you a copy. PM me if so.

I agree on the "put money aside and do it properly" thing, but there are motoring enthusiasts on low wages, like apprentices, that can't afford to pay that kind of money on top of their vehicle and personal expenses. Younger people will always make their own fun, not just with cars. By the time they're on good wages and can afford to do it legally, they've grown out of that stage. Thats why I think the cost of this sport needs attention. - Does Collie require CAMS? and can you take passengers at Collie? I know Barbs don't allow it, but I've heard Collie is pretty laid back ?? - +1, if the cops arent on the roundabout with a handheld, those roads can get pretty messy sometimes. Everyone is hell pumped up from watching burnouts and then "OK, 10 o'clock, f**k off now".

Got a multimeter ? If not, run the engine with only 5 connected at a time (turn the engine off between connecting and disconnecting, obviously), and see if disconnecting any makes a different. Same as an injector test.

Some interesting stuff in hear. My contributions I agree with not using any gear ratio higher than 1.0 (O/D / 5th gear) to accelerate. Maybe when cruising, but to increase speed with a higher gear ratio puts a lot of strain on a few places in the drivetrain. Rolling - roll with the trucks, notice how they take 100m to stop before a light? because moving an already rolling vehicle is alot easier than moving a stationary vehicle. Keep the car moving and time for your green light, avoid stopping where possible, even at lights. This saves a LOT of fuel, because of how the ECU monitors driving habbits. Keeping your car in tune - I havent had my Cef long enough to experinment with this, but my example would be my daily, 1994 Maxima, its a VG30E Auto. Untuned, due for service, regular fuel and having learnt bad driving habbits, gets about 450km (65l tank), retune it, service it, 98 octane fuel, and let it learn better driving habits, and it pulls about 750-800km (65l) - not bad for a 94' V6 auto in peak hour driving, hey? - Yeah, its pretty hard to save fuel in high performance cars Almost impossible, you can drive nicely to work, the ECU gets half way to adjusting to that, then on the way to a mates house, you put your foot down and take off realy awesome-like, the ECU is going to think, "wtf is this bi-polar mo'fo doing???"

Sometimes when I let one rip, its really loud, people stop and look. Want details on the noise? No, you probably dont. But we'll need more info on what this noise is to help you

Never tape anything back together, either replace, or rewire properly. My entire ignition system from the loom to the sparks is all cooked because my previous owner figured eletrical tape was just as good as solder. Open up your loom from the ignitor to the coils, and check them, maybe they got water damaged as well and werent sparking.

Its not sitting straight with the headlights and grill ?? Fix that up, and run a brace from one side to the other, underneath the intercooler, then they shouldnt look at it twice ?? Just my $0.02

Yeah but I couldnt see anyone that could come do it in my driveway. The car is in a thousand pieces and isnt rego'd, so I can't move it unless I somehow re-assemble it with a really bad exhaust leak, and try for a temporary movement permit. Just as hard as pulling the whole engine out and doing it myself, but I'd rather just pay someone $100 to come do it for me in 2 minutes flat. Stupid Ceffy.

I just read the sticky myself, apparently they clip straight in but I beg to differ as my new loom doesnt connect to my AFM, which doesnt seem to be re-wired, unless it was done properly. The only true RB24 is the RB24S (carby, not EFI), from the LHD Ceffy sold in some parts of Asia), so either bore out a 20 and I dunno what pistons you'd use, or get a 25. RB30DETTs are cool, you can see how theyre made on the WikiPedia article for RB Engines My ignition system is all cooked due to previous owner taping together ignitor pack wires, not soldering properly. Exhaust stud closest to the firewall snapped 5mm inside the block today, can't get it out with my current tools. Got some fuel issues and a ton of eletrical problems, both inside and in the engine bay. Finding problems faster than Im fixing them, on what is meant to be a 91'000km RB20 w/ 100k service already done. Might as well take my new clutch and polished n ported extractors, and sell the engine and box in favor of a 25 half cut, all problems solved. Bigger horizon for power, more mods, more support, generally better technology.

Power steering cooler is pointless and overkill. Dunno how much boost you can push, especially with aftermarket turbo, someone else can give you than answer. I've read in a few places, about 300hp is the limits of the RB20 before it'll start getting upset, alot of people do push over 200rwkw, but keep in mind it's still only a 2000cc engine. Generally, if you want that much power, dropping in the RB25 or bigger is the way to go. Some lines of the later model A31s had the RB25DE, dunno if the crossmembers are different though. I know some modifying is needed for 26s and 30s. Look in the parts list sticky in thos forum, there is a link to doing the 25 swap. After this weekend's nightmares, I'm highly considering upgrading to a 25, less troubles and alot more support + mods for them.

I've got 2 sets of screw extractors which will do the job, its just I cant drill a hole to start them, I dont have an air compressor or right angle air drill to get inside the gap.

Sounds like its already drift capable. I dunno if pushing 300+hp in an RB20DET is going to be reliable. * RBs have a slightly smaller 4 pin clip, Z32s have a larger, 5 pin? clip. I'll take a pic later if you want. * 2 way diff's do that under full lock * Check out your PS fluid first * How's the life of the box been? Some boxes are easier than others to force into neutral, depending on how they've been treated and their age. Maybe get a rebuild, re-do the syncro's ?

G'day guys, I need some help with removing a broken exhaust stud. Top row - closest to the firewall, I don't have a drill small enough to fit between the block and those 2 air con pipes, so I need someone with a right angle drill, apparently there are people who drive around and do this professionally. Anybody in Perth able to help me out? Vehicle is sitting in my driveway in Swan View, not moving. Here's a pic of the thing. Stud is snapped off approx. 5+mm inside the block. -Nic