Jay95R33

Hmmmm, +4 and -6 seems a bit aggressive to me. As you said, most people with the basic mods seem to find +1 on the inlet and -4 on the exhaust the go. But it does depend on your car. I'd start at +1 and -4 and fiddle with them on the dyno from there. J

I might as well add one too Silver 93/94 R33 GTS-t with nice mags and a Elite sticker going south bound on Tuggers parkway on Tuesday at about 5.20ish.. I was the other silver R33 right next to you that tried waving at you to say g'day but you didn't look over I got brushed like a bad haircut J

Cool, well if you see a sliver R33 flashing it's lights at you you'll know it's me

G'day Leech, Good to see another Skyliner' coming soon BTW: I think I've seen you around Tuggers a few times. Does your SSS have crome mags?? J

I agree 100% with Benm. Driver skill is more of a factor than most people know. Even if car A is a full second quicker too 100km/h than car B. And if car A has an inexperianced driver then car B will always win... One thing for sure though, and that is that the R33 GTS-t's respond very well to a 3 inch exhaust and 10-12psi of boost. J

G'day Jon, Would you take $100 for the ECU and I'll pay for COD postage ?? Cheers Jayson

Yepp, same here. Boost gauge cause the factory one is slow and not in bar or psi Oil pressue cause the factory one is slow and the sender can be dodgy. Oil temp cause it give's you an indication on how the motor is and also can monitor it when cooling the motor down. Water temp would also be a go'er if your doing some track work. J

Just a quick question, how much on an improvement is the CGC highflow over the stock turbo?? Did you notice any more lag, came on boost stronger etc... Thanks J

3rd pulls really good on mine too. A few little flat spots due to the ECU crapping itself though.. I find that when giving other cars a run, and if it's a close call in 1st and 2nd, I'll get into 3rd and pull away from them. I think it's cause the ratio from 2nd to 3rd is close. Eg. 2nd goes to around 100km/h (if you push it) and 3rd only get's you too 140km/h. DriveBai - once you get a 3inch exhaust and up the boost you'll notice a big improvement J

Yepp, that sounds right about spinning up the one wheel with a broken axle I find the 2 way is so much more perdictable and stable, and in most cases faster. You can get mini spools and full spools although I don't know excatly how these work. The other option is a tight LSD. UAS have these for sale on their web site for ~$1200 exchange. I can't comment on them though as I've never tried one. Tight slow corners take a bit to get used to. But you eventually learn how to drive to minimise the inside wheel skipping. Where ever possible just get the car moving in a straight line first, then turn the wheel (if that makes sence ! ) I remember driving past two police officers one day as i was turning at a set of lights, and it was skipping madly around the corner. The officers had a confused and slightly worried look on thier faces !! So just remember that fully locked diffs are illegal. And to tell you the truth, I'm not sure what the legal standing is on 2 ways etc... My car passed the rego inspection with the 2 way though. Can anyone give any info on the legallity of 2 ways? J

Also - what type of BOV are you running? Is it an after market one that vents into the air?? If it is, it could be adjusted too soft and is leaking... J

In theory it should still drive straight....ish... If an axle snaps, the diff will think that your going to spin up one wheel, so it'll lock the diff and drive the other wheel too. Mind you, I wouldn't like to drive it like that.... And it would be so easy to bag up the one wheel that isn't snapped !! LOL J

I'm not exactly sure what brand it is, although all the mechanics that have driven it have said straight away that it's a 2 way. The speed of lock up is very oil temp dependant too. First run in the morning (cold oil) and the diff is like a LSD and hasn't got much of lock-up. But once the oil is up to temp it doesn't take too much to lock it up. Yepp, it's great for daily driving, just ploding around it's almost normal. But give it a bit of throttle and you can have some fun. J

Only 2 sets left out of this batch - can be posted out ASAP. I will be making more though. J

Not all locker diffs are like that. I've got a 2 way in mine, and I can make a tight slow turn and the diff doesn't make a sound. But give it a bit of throttle while your doing a tight slow turn and then it'll lock up and start skipping. J

Jack up the back of the car, throw it in neutral and spin one wheel. If the other wheel spins the same direction then you've got a 1.5 or 2 way, or a welded diff. If the other wheel spins the opposite way then you've got a normal diff. Best to do this when the oil in the diff is hot (after a 30+ min drive). Other than that, pull the cover off it and have a squizz J

Good stuff Paul Thanks J

Damn, no good. Seeing the smoke wouldn't be a good thing !! Hopefully it's just the stalk thingy crapping out. J

Here's a link to the one that I've made up. http://hyperwa.com/sau/cai/ Heaps of people have used it and are happy with it. Also, do a search, there is a massive thread on this subject in which all the info you need is in it together with heaps of pictures of other peoples cold air boxes. J

DAMN, Three questions.. 1. Do they come in black? 2. Do they come in manual transmission? 3. How much ?

I 'think' the front grill isn't factory. From that pic I can't tell if it has the ignitor module on the back of the motor. But there's a good chance that it's a 1.5. Not sure what they are worth these days. J

My god.. Shell is still alive How's it going Shell? My old car did the same thing with the indicators. Give your alarm a good bash, that used to fix it on my old one J

It's a series 1. You can also see that it doesn't have ABS (the ABS unit usually sits at the top righthand side - looking at the pic), and it's possible that it's got aftermarket suspension as the strut tops don't look like the factory ones. Bit hard to tell, but it looks like there's a white plastic T off of the fuel pressure reg too. Might mean there was/is a after market boost gauge. Oh - last one (LOL), also looks like the factory boost solinoid has been taken out or has been moved. J

That is a picture of a RB25det (turbo'd motor) for sure. You can tell by the cross over pipe, you can see the factory BOV as well as an after market BOV further towards the front of the car. Looks like it may have a pod filter too. J

Cat converter sold. Spot light sold. Spear gun back for sale as the last sale fell through. J