semislickR32

Hi, the edfc has all cables and motors, but they are physically attached to the coilovers so I'd rather sell the whole lot as a kit (although i recognise this is SAU not NS so the S15 coils will not be of huge interest here). Cheers

Airbox, Exhaust, Gauge and Boost-T all gone! S15 Tail lights, Rims and Coilovers still available. Open to reasonable offers

on second thoughts - bare set probably isn't worth it for me as will just need to get newies within a couple of months. But let me know if the 60/70% set sale falls through and I will pick these up. Cheers

hi, very interested in the re55s, both sets depending on visual inspection and whether the better set sale goes through. can you pm me your mobile number so I can drop around and check them out? Cheers.

b-b-b-b-barmp

G'day, Finally got around to clearing out my garage, lots of bits for S15s as well as stuff that will fit other models. Feel free to drop me a PM if you've got any questions. All items are much preferred to be picked up in Adelaide (~5kms north of the CBD) but smaller items can be posted at buyers cost. Tein Control Master Type Flex Coilovers + EDFC to suit S15 - $2500 Features: * 16 level damper adjustment (combined bump-rebound), soft is a bit firmer than stock, full-hard is * full length and height adjustment, anywhere between slammed to the ground up to near-stock * independant height and spring preload adjustment, so lowering doesn't stuff up your spring rates or travel * pillow ball upper mounts with camber adjustment on fronts - dial up the the neg camber to fit your massive rims or corner hard on the track These are in as-new condition and have done less than 1000kms on the car. These not only will make your car look fully sick, but handle brilliantly on the track too. The EDFC in cabin controller allows you to adjust the ront and rear damper settings from the drivers seat, and is also guaranteed to impressed the ladies with your high-tech 'quipment (YMMV ) Price is firm and includes coilovers, EDFC, c-spanners and all full-length EDFC cabling, box and manuals. Factory S15 tail-lights - $150 Mint condition. Good for compliance, crash-repair or for backup when you trash your old ones trying to smoke them with sick matt-black spraypaint Factory S15 airbox - $75 Original condition, complete with near-new factory-spec air filter. Not harcore in any way, but legal Factory S15 exhaust (cat-back ) - $100 In good condition as did only 30000kms on the car. It's oh so quiet… (and oh so legal). Only got pic of the muffler but the rest of the piping is in the shed. Splitfire mechanical boost gauge - $30 Slightly orange backlight but can be changed by replacing bulb, or get the ultimate night-time stealth look by removing the bulb altogether! Fits perfectly in an S15 aircon vent. Turbosmart boost controller $30 Manual bleed valve. Make the needle on your new splitfire boostgauge go nuts! ROH Adrenalin 17" wheels - $350 Set of 4 17"x7" ROH Adrenalin wheels to suit S15 (no tyres). 2 are in good condition with a few minor nicks. The other two have enough gutter-rash to make your blind granny blush, but she will look fully sick chucking burnouts with these rims S15 Factory 16" Alloys - $250 Set of 4 16"x6.5" S15 factory alloy wheels with no tyres. They are in reasonable nick but aren't mint - a few scrapes and scratches on one as you can see in the pics. Also note they are the real-man's original alloy, not the later playboy-bling chromed GT-spec items.

Can I please get a bit of clarification about which turbo people are talking about when they refer to the "-9" that is the 'same' as the HKS GT-SS? Is it the GT2859R - 707160-9 or the GT2860R - 739548-9? I note the GT2859R has the same part number as the other -5 and -7 GT2860's (GT2860R - 707160-5/GT2860R - 707160-7) and am a bit confused... Cheers

pm sent last night - don't want to miss out on one of the last two spaces!

as long as it's not too close to the MSCA supersprint round (ie day after/before) I will definitely be in.

Then I would think that you either do know the answers to your questions, or you should. vspecs got the brembo brakes I understand. R32 with genuine 40k would be pretty rare and I would think $20k would be a good price.

All-time favourite pics of the old wagon (RIP). I know it's not a skyline but at least it's got GTR rims Haven't got any great shots of the replacement yet, unfortunately its the one in the foreground

yep that's where I've got the PSI reading too. so I take it you didn't use the MAP sensor lines or the FPR lines for the solenoid pressure source... but in theory could you? I guess the only post-throttle-body source would be off the balance tube anyway, My understanding is that the best place for getting the signal for the solenoid is pre-throttle and pre-intercooler if possible, but I assume that would require drilling into the hotpipe - not my preference by a long shot.

did you have any issues with the 255s fitting width-wise? Are your guards standard or have you lipped/flared them? If they're a good fit, how much for shipping to adelaide?

thanks for the tip, that makes sense from looking at the diagram which shows that bleed. Do you happen to know whether the take-off from the intake manifold was from the fuel pressure reg signal line, or is there a better safer place to T in? Thanks again...

i'm using a turbosmart eBoost2 controller gauge, which should be relatively accurate I guess. And just in case you're wondering "why don't you just use the eBoost2 to control the boost instead of removing the restrictor?", it's because I haven't figured out how to hook it up yet - it was much easier on my old S15 with one turbo, non-cram-packed engine bay and an easy-to-understand vacuum diagram. The R32GTR diagram in the manual is difficult to interpret to figure out where to get the boost signal from and how to get the solenoid control signal to the actuators... and previous forum searches and questions haven't been answered - poor me

point taken. I do have $10k but would rather spend it on a build rather than a rebuild Another question: Can anyone explain the theoretical function of the boost restrictor to me? I've been studying the vacuum diagram, and it looks like the restrictor is in the line that goes to the wastegate actuators. To me it seems counter-intuitive that removing the restrictor works the way it does, my brain says: restrictor in => actuator sees pressure lower/later => wastegate opens later => more/earlier boost restrictor out => actuator sees pressure higher/earlier => wastegate opens earlier => less/later boost but the car says restrictor in => ...? => less/later boost restrictor out => ...? => more/earlier boost

You obviously need to make sure whatever kit you buy is going to fit, but just for reference I've got 4-pot calipers with 345mm rotors under my 17" rims - they *just* fit (Project Mu 4-pot billet calipers, Nismo LMGT4 17"x9")

Hi, Although I am usually cautious, the other day I experimented with removing the boost restrictor on my R32 GTR to see what would happen. Car is mostly stock engine-wise, with only apexi pods and a 3.5" full exhaust (and perhaps what sounds suspiciously like an after-market fuel pump). Some observations: With the restrictor in, boost was peaking at 12.5psi With the restrictor out, boost came on much quicker () but peaked at just over 15psi () Some questions: 12.5psi with the restrictor in seems pretty high compared to what I thought stock was (ie around 10?). Presume that this is just due to the free-er flowing exhaust? I know people tend to be conservative with advising people against overboosting 15-year-old-ceramic-wheeled gtr turbos, but does anyone have insight as to what the safe limit is and whether peaking over 15psi is just stupid? Rather than smash the old turbs, I am considering doing a full upgrade, but reckon that once I factor in turbos (~3k 2nd hand), a PFC (~$1k), injectors (~$0.7k) and a decent oil cooler (~$0.7k) I'm looking at around $6k plus $1k of labour. Is that the ballpark? Cheers

dude if I had a lime green seat I would want to see it gone too! bump for kermit's favourite colour.

I only just found this thread - I'm booked into the Wednesday public one so will miss out on a great set of skylines I'll have to be more proactive next time... Enjoy the day chaps!

Hi, So as per other thread I successfully removed the airbox & old AFMs. Once this was done I noticed that in the intake piping for the rear turbo there was a fair bit of oil coating the inside of the pipe. The intake for the front turbo was nice and clean. Now I'm pretty new to the whole GTR-Money-Pit-Thing, but I'm guessing this may mean the turbo seals are gone/on their way out? There's no other symptoms like blowing white/blue/grean/pink smoke out the exhaust nor other problems I've noticed. As an aside, the new (second-hand) AFMs seem to have gotten rid of the dropping on light throttle, so that's nice Cheers.

job done. It was easy to get it all off without budging the TT pipe - as said I can't believe the manual even suggests it.

cool thanks - that makes more sense. any tips on getting a socket onto the bolts holding the bottom afm in? looks pretty snug in there

Hi, Hoping for some help - I'm about to replace the AFMs on the GTR and at the same time install an apexi pod kit. Looking at the factory manual it says you have to remove the twin-turbo pipe first, *even when replacing the air filter*! So if I have to that's fine, but would rather undo the minimum number of things so as to minimise chance of stuffing something up. I am pretty surprised that a major component like the tt pipe needs to be unbolted from the turbos just to replace the filter - can anyone confirm or deny this needs to be done? Also if it does are there any gaskets needed for the turbos->tt-pipe flanges? Thanks

I understand this is a for sale thread and therefore the vendor has every right to include favourable testimonials from happy clients. However prospective purchasers should be aware that how you define "light track work" may influence how satisfied you will be with the A1RM pads. Another discussion is here for those who are interested: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ov...1r-t294727.html in fairness I have heard good things from people who have raced on QFM track compounds, and everyone who uses the A1RM on the street seems happy too, so just make sure you are getting the right advice for your application.