semislickR32

Yeah that is fair, although "light" track work doesn't really happen on circuits. Motorkhana/autocross/hillclimbs are fine as there's generally little high-speed braking, but any day at a circuit track that includes 2+ laps with braking from faster than 150km/h is probably more than "light" unless you take it really easy - and who does!?

pm sent

pm sent

lol after all that banter

My experience with the A1RMs has been pretty average - bedded in with the basic 10x 100km/h-0 stops then took them up to Mallala. Mallala is notoriously hard on brakes with hairpins at the end of two straights. First lap fine. lap two stopping from 180 into the hairpin brakes faded to zero whilst still going 80+, so ended up deep into the gravel. Perhaps they needed more bedding, as during the rest of the day they **just** held up but still got really soft and felt very unreliable after lap 2. Having run the Ferodo DS2500 before they are (in my limited and personal opinion) *not* comparable - I've never had any problems with the ferodos even with much less bedding in. Second trip to Mallala same thing happened - first outing into the gravel with on lap 2 zero brakes. Same barely adequate but not catastrophic performance for the rest of the day. by the end of that day (so after ~40 laps) they had 0.1% left. I've now put Project Mu HC16-03s on which stop it like a brick wall, but are not drivable on the street at all due to noise. Once they're gone will try the HC+ and see if they're a good middle ground. I still have them on the rears and have easily 80% left. I also feel there's a bit of spin around the A1RMs, but then a) they're half the price of the DS2500 for a couple of reasons, including perhaps better value but also lower level of performance b) no-one on an internet really knows your specific application and what you're going to be doing with them, so really it's buyer beware. Cheers,

where in adelaide are you located?

thanks for that. so do they die because they're old/baked/both? I assume that if I get newer ones out of an R34 I'll get more life out of them? just looked at the price difference between 2nd hand R33/34s vs the Nismo items - its a bit steep for a stock-engined car like mine...

hi, is the apexi intake kit for BNR32 or 33/34? Don't know myself but noticed that on nengun there are different part numbers for the different series. Product Model 507-N001 Nissan BNR32 RB26DETT Skyline - R32 GTR - BNR32 507-N011 Nissan BCN33/BNR34 RB26DETT Skyline - R33 GTR - BCNR33 Skyline - R34 GTR - BNR34 Cheers

Hi, Can someone please confirm whether all GTR AFMs are the same - ie can I fit the AFMs from an R33 or R34 to my R32? Mine are on the way out and need fixing/replacing - I know they can probably be fixed, but as there's a few floating around for sale on the forums for reasonable prices I am more inclined to replace. Some people have said they are a direct swap, but today I noticed that the (possibly related) apexi power intake kits have different part numbers for the 32 vs the 33/34, which made me question whether the AFMs might be different between the cars. Authoritative answers from people who've done it themselves will be very much appreciated. Cheers

pm sent re afms

Hi, Do you know if the AFMs are direct fit into an R32 GTR? Cheers

i've also got them from autosportdirect.com.au are here in adelaide but can post as well if you just want a sanity-check comparison. At the time prices were much the same as from unique. Cheers

Hi, I ordered ds2500s over the web from Unique Autosports: http://uniqueautosports.com/ - arrived within a couple of days. gtr brake prices including pads: http://uniqueautosports.com/pricelists/pri...t_gtrbrakes.htm Unit 1/20 Tucks Rd Seven Hills NSW Australia 2147

Hi, Re the cage, does it meet CAMS Schedule J specifications? was is custom made to fit a gts-t and happens to also fit GTR, or the other way around? re the harnesses how wide are the straps? do you know if is it possible to use them with stock GTR seats or do you nee aftermarket items? Would also be interested in reason for sale, or is that implied in your sig? thanks

Good point. The car is a stock 1994 R32 GTR with the factory ECU unmodifed, only engine mods are 3" exhaust and splitfires coilpacks. As mentioned above fuel pump *may* be aftermarket but really don't know.

yeah it does feel like a fuel delivery problem, but if so would it be ok on boost? Must say the fuel pump is pretty loud when pre-priming - it sounds like my walboro in-tank one I had in the S15 so I thought it might be an aftermarket item installed by a previous owner. I guess it's impossible to tell without pulling it out... Is it likely to be any other part of the fuel delivery system, eg filter, injectors? Cheers

Hi, I know this is impossible to diagnose from the comfort of your PC, and it will shortly be going to the workshop to figure out, but I have a stalling problem with my R32 GTR and was hoping someone could say "ah that's the XYZ thing they all do that just do X and it'll be fine" Symptoms are: On cold start, idles mostly fine but drops every 2-5 seconds (sounds like a lost sheep: baaaaaaaaaaaaaaa baaaaaaaaaaa baaaaaa baa baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa ) Never misses a beat on 20%+ throttle - smooth and still pulls hard on full throttle When it gets warm (ie 70deg+) it starts occasionally losing power and stalling when idling (eg when clutch-in upon stop). Pumping accelerator before it actually stalls revives it and it keeps on running until the next time Once it starts, it will quite often do the same on low throttle (eg cruising at 50km/h @ 3000rpm). If throttle position is maintained it will revive itself after 1-2 seconds. Related info I've just had new splitfire coils & plugs put in last week as 5 out of the 6 oem ones were cracked. Mate has suggested possible cracked head gasket with a cylinder sucking in water. Radiator shows no signs of oil though. When I bought it 5 months ago all cylinders were compression tested and all were exactly 150psi Since purchase I have done a couple of supersprints and a couple of hillclimbs so any components that were about to fail due to be 15 years old have now been stressed Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

no it wasn't $20 feels & looks great and with racing gloves the grip is awesome.

and it looks great

success thanks again and yes, it was too easy!

ok cheers I admit I am ashamed to have to resort to the forum & the manual but have smashed & ruined stuff in the past trying to guess at how to pull stuff apart.

and this is the page of the manual I'm looking at:

from your description, that may be what is in the diagram, but here's pics of mine which sounds different - the horn assembly is a cylindrical assembly in the centre of a solid formed wheel:

Hi, I'm trying to remove the steering wheel on my R32 GTR to fit my new sparco number, but have fallen at the first hurdle of getting the horn-button out . I've searched and read the factory manual. The pics in the manual tell me to "Press horn button notch from hole under steering wheel with screwdriver and remove horn button as shown in figure." But either I'm retarded (possible) or there is no such "horn button notch" (much more likely). The diagram of the steering wheel in the manual does look different to mine so maybe refers to a different model? Can someone please give me a detailed description? Once I've figured it out I'll post some pics to the tutorial section. Cheers

From the pics I assume these don't come with adapter brackets to fit to an r32 gtr? If not is there anything else that would be needed to fit these up? Cheers