Dorigecko

that's a ryco oil filter number. not sure of the distribution of ryco in the uk? anyway, here is the genuine filter number: 1520855Y00 In a cold country, i'd probably run a semi-synthetic 15w50. i've heard motul is good. but, i'm using united oil atm

from a legal point of view , my car is 1988. RB30 ran til 89. any chance i could just run the RB30 loom along the 25 turbo loom? legally?

No no. I'm not doing anything flash, just wanting to bust in an engine I can destroy and do it fairly simply, while building my RB25DET to factory standards (yes, that's right. no forged internals) The idea is to drop in an RB30E or RB25DE while retaining the RB25 loom and all that, so it's a simple conversion back to the 25. but in the mean time, i'm wondering exactly what needs to be changed to run the RB30E. I gather that i'll need to run the RB30 computer, but is there any similarity that I can utilize between the 25 and 30 which would allow me to retain the 25 loom? elsewise, it shall be a bigger job than anticipated.

Hey guys, I'm wanting to rebuild my RB25DET, but seeing as how a) it'll take some time and b) it's a daily driver. What needs to be changed over in a conversion like that? I've got a standard computer and loom, RB20 gearbox, and a 3" exhaust *gulp* and am wanting to go a bog-stock RB30. I've had a soft-spot for NA for a while.. so yeah. Any help would be awesome, thanks.

Hey guys. My RB25 is coming up on needing a good and awesome rebuild. I want to keep the 25 in it, but make it so it will live forever. So, I thought instead of being without my daily for a month (I'll be rebuilding the bottom end, sending the head off to get done), I thought in a weekend I'd rip out my 25, get it on a stand, and chuck in an RB30E while I had the 25 built. My question is, would I come into any issues with taking the 25 out and dropping the 30 straight in? only thing I'm worrying about is computer and g/box. Easier question is, what is involved in this particular Turbo to NA ENGINE conversion? Car is a cefiro.

Matty will eat Dan's wedding-vegies, whilst Ceiling-Cat's watching

What kind of car is it going into? What class will you be running? What do you want out of it?

Dan will grope Mike's wedding-vegies, whilst Dan's asleep.

Do you expect anything less of a nissan purist? for reals, be original. Go an L26 Hahaha. Now THERE'S a challenge.

Correction. I need bonnet, windscreen, and the bit that surrounds the rear view mirror (where it bolts up to the roof panel). 0447 188 408 please call me!

Patty can't shmashmorshion hairy mike, because dan's jealous.

To find out for absolutely certain, fill one of these out: http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/mediaFiles/lic_modform_prodveh.pdf take it to licencing centre, see what happens. From what I remember, if it is legal, the brakes need to be modified, as with drivetrain and suspension and tyres etc. However, usually the problem is with displacement. legally you can put in an engine with a displacement no more than 25% increase over standard. You're talking about putting a forced-induction engine of almost 240% increase. That being said, I've seen 510s with 2.4L datsun rally engines, a 1200 with an RB26, cortinas legally rocking 347s. so there has to be a way around it. Can I ask, why a s/c buick in a datto? stick it in a VK mang.

That's f**ked!.... Did this cruise by chance head out through the hills on kalamunda road?

Patty must pleasure hairy skyryan, because dan approves

you can pleasure a Dan, desperate Dan does...

*you dont add a word, you dans one......* Is this not the way to shake'n'bake?

Dan had busting Obama's penis soaker pumping elephants

I've got an Rb20 turbo 5spd in my ceffy, and i can tell you that if i had a twin-plate, i'd be on the side of the road still. a single plate heavy duty organic is the go for that particular gearbox.

i'd take your bonnet if you could get it freighted to 6401.

NO DEAL!!

going to buy you all some hot chocolate now...

He had bananarama Obama's super soaker pumping

don't warm up your car in the morning. bad for your engine. wears your plugs, allows unburnt fuel to condense and drip down past your rings into your oil diluting it. more relative to what you're talking about, if you warm it up for like three to ten minutes it will take MUCH longer to get rid of the water vapour. Doesn't hurt your engine... it's what it's designed to do. Warming up for 5 minutes is an old wives tale. or husbands. either way, it's lame and misguided. best way to warm up your car in the morning and get rid of the water vapour is to nanna it until it reaches just under operating temperature (a safe temp is about 70-75°, suitable op temp being between 80° and 95°C). Try it out, the lot of you. If there's one thing you can trust, it's a dude on the internet. (That dude is Doctor Karl, bitches.)

hey guys. am in the process of shopping around for a second engine to build for my ceffy, and would like to know all of the torque settings for the essential bits? Also, what clearances on the crank am i looking for when i get to that part? Sorry to make a new thread but i couldn't quite find what i needed to find. a manual for the engine for the R33 is like 300 bucks... plebs don't make that much..

Don't have a dyno sheet on here, but it's sitting in my glovebox. SAFCII Stock turbo, 9psi 98 Ultimate GT-R fuel pump 250.3hp.