Dorigecko

f**k that's even the first one. yeesus...

coventrys are f**ked man. DVGs in midland are alright. then you got Giant Nissan in osborne park on scarborough beach road who are kinda rude but good for parts, total nissan on albany highway near where it meets leach. aaaand last but not least magic nissan in melville on leach highway genuine is the shit, else ACL.

3" kermit-spec turbo-back, straight through to what is going to be twin 3" straight pipes. 4" cannon is not loud enough...

just did a quick search on this topic, found some good information you might like to read. http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar1192.htm have a read buddeh.

Yeah it would. just means valves either warped so it doesn't really seat, or it's actually fully burnt and has failed, letting compressed air and fuel out before it can be burnt. your plugs will still fire, your injectors will still function, but basically it will sound like shit, go even worse, and yeah... basically just do not drive it because there's a serious problem. replacing the valve won't solve the cause of the burnt valve though. hot spots in the engine, exhaust gas temperature, shitloads of possibilities. tell us a little bit about the engine? edit: is the injector still working in cylinder 2 though?

Benedictine. f**k yeah. Also - lemon, lime and bitters with a shot of benedictine.

I've gone PFR6G-11, to learn for myself how long plats will last. costly decision, but hey wtf. for 90 bucks a set, i'm cool with it. I pulled BCPR6ES's out of it, checked the gap and they were .9s, standard gap. 1.1 i'm happy with, as i've just discovered i've got splitfire coil packs. f**kYEAH! erm, so yeah I'm hoping my ignition system can support the gap. it's not missing at all, but the old plugs i pulled out showed signs of a slight detonation. hoping it's just due to worn plugs, so i'm gonna listen out for it, and might rip them out after 1000km see how they look.

Cult following may be due to the fact it was the weapon of choice in initial D. Realistically, they are a friggin brilliant engine. sound good, go hard, easy to work on, makes decent power, and paired up with an AE82, AE92 be it hatch or seca, or the levins from year dot to year line. I reckon either a quick little runabout like the ae92 corolla secaSX with the 4age powerplant, or something cool. like this: newer Cressiddaaaaaaa!!

If I may... to use a cable from the speedo to the gearbox, what exactly is required in terms of parts and mounting? i can get speedo cables made up to have whatever ends they need.

i see. no worries. might go iridiums. same price as plats. i'll try standard plugs to choose between 5 and 6 heat range. car makes 250hp atw.

Hey dudes. Time to change plugs in my RB25DET, but have some questions before I go buy plugs. Speaking in NGK p/n's, what is supposed to be used is a PFR5G-11. One thing i can see wrong with that: They're a very, very hot plug to run. no expert, but with a turbocharged car wouldn't it be better to run a colder plug, like a 6 or 7? and is there any real benefits from running the platinum plug? or even iridiums? IFR6G11 i can obtain. not popular but are easy enough to source. would that be better? or would like bpr6es-11 be alright? if someone has an NGK catalogue handy, can you confirm that bpr6es-11 is correct projection length matched to pfr5g-11s please? cheers for any help. also, has anyone experimented with plugs and found what they think to be perfect match? Engine is RB25DET series 1, standard turbo, 9psi through medium FMIC, standard intake manifold, isn't burning quite as much fuel as it should but may be due to just overfuelling on account of my... ehem... "race" cat. *decat cough cough* and manifold suchlike. fuel isn't issue though. it has just developed a very slight miss under 900rpm, sporadically coming and going.

LOL, +1. Get an NA elwyn....

Like i say - probably not exact but it looks VERY VERY similar to the R32 GT-R front grill. I had one on mine, and it looked almost exact to that. So, ya

Nic is in hospital atm so I'll take this over. The suspension is to be used for drift, and it will need to be hard, as well as have some form of give. adjustment is necessary to get the right setups. I know for a fact that damper adjustment works. Going to let this thread die now. You've given a bunch of information that wasn't really necessary... the answer wasn't found because no one has an opinion from use of K-sports - which I won't believe are the same as D2 or G4 suspension. because we haven't seen evidence of this. Every thread in SAU changes to "dunno, get these instead".

www.ipravic.com.au improved production man. best way to get into fast racing. you can start with an ae82 corolla if you wanted man... doesn't matter so long as it has a CAMS-approved cage and other awesome race-spec shit. hit up the site and see how you can get into it.

Sweet man!! always wanted to know how a ceffy would look with watanabes. evidently, hot. 32GT-R grille if i'm not mistaken?

double post *headsmack*

1 - they're cool 2 - they've got a wide range of dampening adjustment, which does actually work 3 - they've got adjustable ride height 4 - they've got adjustable camber tops 5 - they're good value for money 6 - the stockists will have availability for parts and ability to service them 7 - they don't require some juice-queen to adjust them for you 8 - they're easy to play with 9 - you don't have to live with the same severe stiffness all the time. 10 - they've been proven to work exceptionally well in drift. Now that I think about it nic.. it's only like 300 more for teins right? if you find super-sports that haven't been changed by fulcrum, they'll be stiffer than normal super sports but softer than my super drifts.

first car is cool - if it's first car material. such as yours. not if it's a crazy thing. and rule? more like an investment. either way, be careful whatever car you decide. very sensible choosing non-turbo though. good sensible. R32 or R33 GTS Sedan is the go i reckon. can always turbo it later. and RB20DET conversion for 32 is cheap as chips really, if you wanted to head down that route.

You're not helping, ryan.

seconded. 12kg is pretty sturdy there nic, and with your back i wouldn't reccomend it. but, i mean what's the problem even if he does want 12kg/cm springs? doesn't look like anyone have opinions on them... best call wilkos and ask if they've ever had any fail, or if they've had anyone who've had any problems with them. naturally - being distributors they would be able to get the parts to repair should things go horribly wrong.

compression test AND pressure test. to be honest it actually sounds like a burnt valve. which means time for top-end rebuild.

My daddy didn't buy it for me, however. N/A R34 = win. for 10k though, maybe around the time you're looking to buy. they're still fairly new for an import.

I f**king love yellow fever. you must come drifting though dood. i shall help you. when're you getting coil-overs? k-sports man. for reals, adjustable height, 36 levels of dampening adjustment, anodized orange body, cambered tops. i say go for it man.

Use search, kent. Wtf are k-sports lol where are the distributors? Ha. I'm also keen on this thread, just in case one of my teins decide they're too old for this shit, and go pop.