Dorigecko

Get an R31 - all the awesomeness of a skyline - none of the pansiness and you'll look tough.

^^ Strut specialists charged me 77 inc for a pair, ML4371 (monroe part number for same ones) are around hundred bucks i believe. beauty of strut specialists is, you get exactly what you need - not more, not less. and they take f**k all to make, take em in the morning you'll have em by the end of the day. those dudes rock.

Check fuel pump and lines. if you gotta feed it to get the revs back so it doesn't die, and it's backfiring (usually a sound associated with not getting fuel - bare in mind it IS an rb25det with standard computer), then it sounds to be a fuel issue. fuel pump, lines, AFM could also be outta whack.

take it back to the mechanic. what's it like under load? noticed any lack of power? what transmission fluid did he use?

That's it kane. TF898 would be truflow p/n, but industry number still the same. we don't get much call for RB25 water pumps out in the sticks but my listings all say 898 is correct and 890 is rb26dett. better brands do make a difference. difference between nu-line pulleys and gates pulleys. same number - different size sometimes. aftermarket will never be 100% exact, but if it doesn't fit, it doesn't fit. glenn, if it doesn't turn over, then yeah.. sorry.. you've f**ked it. Stop spending money when you don't know what the issue is. go through your entire system and rule out EVERYTHING, if not get a mechanic to look at it. and stop driving it!

So.. are you going VQ or not? I've been chatting to steve at maytech. reckons they need a bit of work to be reliable as a performance engine. like, valve spring shims, head gaskets, head bolts, basically top end shit. so, basically... money. more money. haha.

run an s2 afm? why do you have a s2 afm on a s1 engine can i ask curiously? as for struts, take it to strut specialists in ozzy park, 54 guthrie street i think it is. blue and yellow sign. they'll work out a) what ends you need, b) what lifting force they require, and c) what length. laughing then. splash guards are for pansies!!! but yeah, wreckers or genuine (evil... evil shit going genuine). clips, if you have ONE then take it to an autopro or something, and get them to match it up.

^^ Seconded. Don't drive it. Check your oil too. If it's frothy, you got problems man.

Sure dude? They're the same part number listing. Perhaps they're different for series 2 RB25's.

I'm not sure if you guys are joking or if you really don't know what a f**king air flow metre is... So I'm going to back away from this thread.

RB30, RB20, RB25 water pumps all the same. Sounds like you're not getting a seal because he didn't blue-maxx the shit right whoever did the work, and hasn't tightened it enough. drain the coolant, rip off the cover again, undo the belt and pulley, unbolt the water pump, clean off the old silicone shit, replace with new Loctite Blue-Maxx silicone around all of the stud and bolt holes and around the entire sealing surface. not too much, but enough to seal the entire thing. pop it back on, tighten it up until it's juuuuust tight. then nip it up. replace all your bits, tension your belt via alternator. open the bleed screw on top of your manifold, take it out but don't lose it. fill the radiator with coolant (red if you're running red, green if you're running green). leave the cap off and start the car. let it run, and keep on topping it. run it until the thermostat opens, and keep topping it up until you can't fit anymore into the radiator. then tighten the screw back on (easier when the car is off) and pop on your rad cap. fill up your overflow to half way and job's done. truflow is a good brand, and better than powermax. but no substitute for an N1 GT-R water pump, genuine. GT-R Water Pumps are anti-cavitation water pumps, but still fit the entire RB range of engines.

Yeah you got a point there. They should make some sort of metre that detects air flow in relation to the amount of fuel it needs, then it talks to the computer somehow via magical electronics and sends the right amount of fuel to the amount of air the engine gets. That'd be awesome. It can't be cold air though. Else that's bad for the engine.

you can always chrome-plate your plastic

better way to bleed system. leave your cap and cock on the top of your manifold off, run the car up to op temp and let all air in the system bleed out thoroughly. making sure your overflow is half full?

If all else fails mate, there's a blackun on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/A31-Nissan-Cefiro-F...=item19b182b5f4

seconded with badges but goddamn that IS f**king hot! brilliant looking, would go alright with the s/c too i bet.

Northam is a bigger sea of farm machinery and bogans. population wise, and farm machinery dealer wise. haha. yes I am competitive.

was more of a history lesson for me, less of a 'how can i build one' lesson, but equally useful. last couple posts i very much appreciate, thank you. mate's RB20 should make 300hp with standard internals, but flow work will be on the cards. else i'll smash his nuts with a rock, caveman style. thanks guys. mods if you like, delete all posts that are shit. for future reference and whatnot.

Num Lock? Is that like some sort of loctite for your... nums?

intelligence? nismoid, homologation engines aren't what i was really asking about. i was asking about one specific race engine, skaife's. so how about I just ask what the difference is between Skaife's RB20 and a regular RB20 you would have found in a street GTS-R. does that make it easier? reiterate some shit dude. "Race RB20's have different blocks what you can't get - anywhere. so forget it. buy a good manifold, boost the f**k out of an engine and disable the rev limit. problem solved" - i'd be cool with a reply like that. stupid, but would save a lot of confusion.

try this one perhaps. this is ex-skaife, and it sounds HORN. and dude you're not funny. go'way please. don't care how fully sik powerfulz your car is, i want history and you're giving me pretty much nothing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2jbS3t77Fw...feature=related this is ultimately a sound I want to achieve - or rather would like to make nic achieve.

sounds familiar: fully JDM right there hey.

what, a massive cannon and a sticker saying jdm-spec? get outta my thread because you clearly don't know a goddamn thing about its content.

nismoid, tone down the arrogance dude. it's discussion time, not 'i'm right you're wrong shutup' time. chill the f**k out. so, i've gathered now - RB20DET-R was in race-spec vehicles, with race-spec external modifications. 800 units were made, some of which used and built as group A race engines here in oz, some used in japan for race, rest kept as standard red-top eccs in GTS-Rs. yeah? Skaife's was f**king boss. The hard-revving sound isn't actually hard revving.