Kinkstaah

What I meant was... You don't want 2 pumps and have one die on you.... It's far better to only have 1 pump.. If that pump were to die.. For what birds is doing, the 040 is fine... My point about it dying is my ones died and they looked clean as from the outside. One that looked that clogged but still worked is pretty amazing to me. They didn't need 'much' gunk to die... For me, and I went through 3 of them before I switched to pumps which had external filters (daetschwerks then a 460 when I needed dat flow)

Birds it doesnt look the same though. I have had pumps look much healthier than that one and be completely dead due to far less sediment. Ive also seen my Walbro after some time as it tends to come in and out of my tank a bit.. If you are gonna go 1 pump (which is always better than 2 pumps) then pay the $40 extra and get a pump that will flow 450rwkw on E85.

I just find it suprising it supports the power you're making, i.e 270ish on E85. Would have thought itd be close to running out. If it meets your needs its worth doing it again, but the 040 certainly certainly clogs up more than your average bear.

Birds 040s get f**king loud when they start dying Source: killed multiple Get a 460 pump and for gods sake redo all the wiring in one hit Yes it is annoying But better than doing it 9 times and WAY better than having your car die because you have a powerFC that wont save your engine by cutting all your fuel when you hit 18:1 AFR on 20psi.

Is it really? Why is there the perception that real estate is massive dollars for minimal work Or is this just the case for all kinds of sales?

I also will get this in my RB, but we're talking literally 100% of the tank driven on a highway doing 100kmh... in an auto (which is worse than manual)

Birds, get Nistune and flex. Done. Last time I spoke to Trent he said 86's make something like 110 kw stock, and 145ish on E85 with nothing else done. He also said they were pretty terrible car, widly not worth the money. 1:51 at PI doe...

An intercooler cools the air before it gets to the injector at all As to whether E85 can simply ignore heat soak, nfi. It does a lot of wonderful other things so why not try!

Truthfully, all tuning (other than power tuning) takes a lot of time, a lot of logging, a lot of driving around, cruising, half throttle, DIY'ing the cold start and making little corrections here and there. And then on most ECU's, get ready for corrections for 98, and just a lot of little tweaks here and there. Having someone have it overnight for just a flex tune is just near impossible to get fully right, so I'm not surprised people have e85 cold start issues or boggy spots on the fuel that they don't use 95% of the time - The time it takes to get it spot on is WAY more than what you spend going WOT on the dyno, but people aren't going to spend $3000 on labor to get a tune 100% spot on..... until you change... anything.

This is a bad tune (or at least worse than mine). To be fair, it can be tricky to get right. But it can be made to be right. My car (of all cars!) will crank over 3-4 times and start at any temp on E85, through one attempt of turning the key and I'm on my way, ready for my car to break something else. It can be done, hence my confusion on the subject. 6 turns of the key is quite different to 6 turns of the starter motor to get up and going on the way to work.

A few minutes, yeah, that's annoying, but 6 cranks... We are speaking 6 cranks right? Not 6 full on attempts to start it and the car failing to start/stalling before being able to successfully leave the driveway, yeah? 6 cranks (which is literally 2 seconds) is quite different to 5 full minutes of general swearing about how shit E85 is in winter.

I guess it boils down to what I said before... 5-6 crank to start on E85 is not a problem, as that takes approximately 2 seconds of your life.

But... I also have none of dem e85 problems... ... going by Birds' comment, he's saving not a great deal by being on 98, for less performance. It used to be CHEAPER than running 98, it's now marginally more expensive. Is more inconvienient though. Just sayin, if you have the means to alter and do your cold start yourself, E85 is a non issue to get going in the morning.

It could be an ECU thing, but honestly man... starting the car on E75, or E21, or E0, or E84.9 (or whatever maximum ethanol content you ever see is) is... just not a thing. Starting in summer, winter, I dunno. I read it all the time but it's not like it takes more than 2-3 seconds to have the car started, even with all the numbers wrong. I have this feeling I just have much more tolerance for the car not starting. If I'm up and going in under 10s I consider that as good as perfect, but in all seriousness I just fired my car up 5 minutes ago and it's coolant temperature is 4C and it was ready to go without stalling or being retarded. I'd only go back to 98 if I did drive it daily, or had a small turbo where the difference between E85 and 98 was like ~20kw. E85 is still 20c or something cheaper than 98, say, 1.40 to 1.65, or 117% the cost, for what, 125% of the fuel use? For free powers?

Get a proper tune/flex if you must. Or tune it yourself, when my fuel pump actually decides to f**king pump fuel, my car will start in 1-2 cranks in 4C mornings on pure E85. Honestly the difference between starting on 98 and E85 is literally zero. E85 is quite pricy though, and tbh I considered also just running around on 98 if I literally dailied the car because about 250RWKW of power never actuallyresults in any forward momentum. But the cold start thing is a pretty huge myth.

Why?

You could uh, bridge the power to the pump with an alternate power source (i.e your battery) and take the line off? Or just run through terrible fuel. .... I did it..... and I survived.. how bad could it be?

I reckon I could kill a Daytona machine. Also car now working. A wire connector from the factory died. It also controls all injector pulses.

Well lets go over a few points here 1) I keep additional breakages on the down low 2) it's not daily driven, mainly due to fear.. and the fact I work 6 minutes from where I live, so it isn't even up to temp when getting here, and also fear ..it broke down about 1km from my house btw.. after doing 300+kms on the weekend.. Also the issue itself deserves mentioning... How does one relay work but every other relay not work, when they share the exact same pins? Car primes crank car, got fuel pressure start car, no fuel... until it runs for ~10 seconds then its fine sure ok Wire up a button to force the pump to pump, in the idea of holding it down until the car stops being retartded this works, cool, but we're using a 30A supercheap relay Put 70 back in. Same pins. Problem different. Car won't run unless button is held in. f**k it, whatever, use the normally closed option on the 70 relay to make the pump actually f**king pump all of the time even if the car is off, plug it in in the boot to go for a drive. Cool. Until of course, that doesn't work anymore either Car turns over Fuel pump primes and is pumping, just stalled and refuses to start No fuses blown best idea so far is I've somehow blown a fuel line inside the fuel tank Side note: I didn't need your tank Simon as, well, the issue was with the tank lid itself.

Days since Greg's car died requiring a tow in peak hour traffic: 0

Absolutely. Finding that milk with 1 extra day of expiry is vital to survival especially given it's usually finished 4 days before the initial expiry date.

That is a recipe for a boring night, Birds

I distinctly recall my parents buying a 5 bedroom house (in Seaford) for 105K. Without looking (because houses are for people who don't waste money on broken cars) I'm confident it's way more than that now, accounting for inflation for sure. For absolute sure the average wage has not tripled/quadrupled/qintupled since 1990. Also, housemate owns five properties? Biggest plot twist ever. I'd be coming down like a hammer asking for more contribution when hearing that information.

It initially made the same power (375kw) at 7-8 less boost but after fixing boost leaks and hunting everything down (and Trent upgrading his dyno so it can actually run WOT) for a full pull... It made about 365ke, but peak power is at like 3900 rpm now.. Which it holds until about 6k then falls away and gets wavy and valve floaty. So the limiter is now lower and as mentioned, going a larger hot side. The peculiarities of boost in gears remains in any case, nothing has changed in so far as the original post on the topic..

nah man Ultimately he does make the rules, and if he wanted, he could make wildly unreasonable, unfair rules if he wanted to as well, he could make mandatory blowjobs daily instead of rent. Of course, if he actually had them sign a lease then uh, there are rules that need to be followed because the law can get involved, too. Patrick and I were just suggesting a measured, well thought out response is likely better than a knee jerk reaction.