Kinkstaah

Thing is, everyone seems "ok" with the gearbox "constantly" failing. Is it not a big deal to get it rebuilt? Is it worth going for smaller turbos (-9/GTSS) to specifically avoid this weak point?

As someone considering going GTR this thread concerns me. 380/450kw on e85 is a lot more common and smahed gearboxes appear to be a very constant issue. Is it as bad as this thread suggests? With so many failures over so much time, has anyone 'fixed' this pre-emptively?

Hook an ECU to it From what I gathered from speaking to the guys that built my trans was that there's no real way to know without some sensor or ECU reading pressure inside the box, it wasn't alterable unless there's a computer to alter it. I once had the same sensation after going rather hard through the hills, figured it was heat related at the time. There's not much you can really do though, if its not right.. Add fluid. If you have enough fluid.. Well... It has to come out At least that's what I gathered from long conversations with guys who breathe AT systems all day.

Well, to be honest the chassis was the only part I hadn't replaced yet....

Stao's invisible highflow service could pick up some popularity though...

Cheers for the info re: gtst and gtr, hence my question as to how different they really are when fully set up Which seems hard. For what its worth I wenT WOT from 0kmh with 375rwkw and had traction in first which was rather suprising. Howvever around a corner is considerably less likely. Scotty would know how much of a stickler I am for the stealth look. If someone was just looking to buy a rb28 neo I'd sell them mine. As for r33 colours, go get House of Kolor's Galaxy Grey. Someone did a drag r33 with this colour and it is fantastic. I asked about it for my r34 before the convo subject changed to 'prepare for write off'

Box does have its own speed sensor, but if the AT light is on AT ALL you are locked in 3rd. As far as I know, you can drive it in 3rd all day, as you can't really exactly drive it hard in that state

That's what's doing my head in. Suppose I'll have to take a passenger ride in someone's gtr to see if they're all they are cracked up to be In this day and age it seems a well sorted gtt/gtst and a well sorted gtr are much of a muchness as far as actual speed is concerned, unless I'm wildly incorrect

I appreciate the offer, but my wreck is fully fruited out, I'd instantly sell every single component that isn't a panel or the shell Which I may still do, incl the rb28 if a forged GTR is a better option in the real world.. My car (was) covered enough to pay the 26 to 29 that 'complete' 33 gtrs are going for in the sale section

I don't think the price is the issue - what people would like to see is more photos, how the engine bay looks, and a dyno printout to see what a twin turbo 3.5L v6 looks like on paper.

+1 for speed sensor, as to where that is or how to check that.... Uh

On the subject of converting to AWD Should I buy a gtr with my write off money or is the ol gtt/gtst considered on par around the track nowadays when set up well?

Specifically, don't test them in water, find that they work, then put them in a box for months. You will find they do not work when you take them out again Scottys picture is NOT an example of one of these pumps being used correctly in E85.

IBTL (also the Ryco fuel fitler for a R34 is quite bad, or at least mine was. Deffo recommend the earls variant!)

As someone who has bought injectors three times, listen to the post immediately above this one.

The above is really the best advise. Unless you are pushing 430kw+... you do not need a 2nd pump and the farking around that is involved with it.

For what its worth, I have type B's and a haltech (on a rb28). After a tune, I have idles which can be described as uh, REAL LUMPY. I mean, car-shakingly lumpy. In every instance it was actually due to it simply running very lean on idle (~17:1 AFR). I was able to add a little to get this to 14.7-15:1 and the lumpiness effectively disappeared. If all that happened was you got your tune, it may simply be a bit lean at idle.

+1 for not doing a Greg Especially at 'normal car' levels cause that's what I did Repeat Do not do a Greg Also, turbo size looks matched pretty well with the engine, great result, and I am 100% sure and would bet my life Scotty actually said "SEE MATE I TOLD YOU WOULD MAKE MORE THAN 100KW haw haw haw"

Y'all motherf**kers should buy my Xspurts! Selling the stuff Scotty took out of my car to other people who frequent his garage is the way things are supposed to happen!

Ah right. Sorry, I thought the CAR was written off so you moved your working engine/driveline into a new chassis. Kind of the opposite, you bought the wreck back.. and then got a new engine and put it into your old/original chassis. This makes sense to me now. Mine is insured for 27k, which is the same cost as that GTR. There's not many things a neo with an auto transmission, suspension setup for a 4DR, diff and driveshaft for a 4 door, exhaust for a 4 door will really fit into easily other than well, a 4 door. Or maybe a S15.. they had the same auto originally...

Hey its valid to ask! Doing just an engine swap not always as easy as a more complicated (shit) swap/setup/changeover/random problem. Re: Tony, meant who did the whole engine swap job itself. Though if you bought your car back for 3k, why did you get another engine for the car you were transplanting it into? huh.

Were you with shannons? How much did it cost, relative to what the agreed value was? Some people have suggested this actually ends up 'making' money. Who did the job? Did you just do the engine, or the entire driveline, suspension, etc? Mine is auto, there'd be a lot of wiring and random junk to do to. Most/all of which is undocumented and highly shit.

Yeah.. there's many options on the table.. some are 'easier' than others. It's going on a hoist at Micolour today. Will have to physically have a look under there and see just how destroyed it all actually is. The whole write off, buy back wreck is an option too, lots of messing around though. Engine swaps are not always that simple either. Only thing more Victoria proof than a boring auto R34 sedan, is something that is actually EPA proof but.. 330kw @ 3500.. hmmmmmhmhmhmmmmhmhmhrrrrmmhmrmhmmaremarmamfgdFFS

Talk of writing car off 2 days after lovely result Sadness Desire to do it and buy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/439783-r33-gtr-vspec-forged-engine/?hl=gtr#entry7289108 extremely high especially as its Victoria proof dilemma+

R34 GT ... with a RB28DET Neo in it? Not really sure which thread this belongs in, but it's a RB25 block initially, so we'll go with that. GTX3076 .082 rear Turbosmart Hypergate 45MM on the housing 3IN Turbo back exhaust a 5in Cat body, with 2 mufflers and a twin tip end. Brian Crower 2.9L Stroker kit - Actual displacement is 2.785cc, due to less oversized pistons, so basically just the rods and crank. Custom JE Pistons for a NEO (comp ratio apparently 8.2:10) Cometic 1.8mm head gasket JUN Oil pump Tomei Type B 260 degree Cams Metal 3in intake between AFM and the Turbo intake. There's been some kind of porting/polishing of the exhaust side of the head. Exactly what is unknown.. 1400cc Xspurt E85 Injectors 460LPH Fuel pump Fuel Pressure Regular doing nothing but sitting in the engine bay now Splitfire Coilpacks Haltech PS2000 Other funny stuff: stock exhaust manifold stock airbox/snorkel stock intake plenum automatic transmission (the R34 one) Blitz SE return flow fmic (620x266x76) Trent actually couldn't go WOT on the dyno until about 4500 RPM, as it was causing the dyno to give big warnings and shut down. 375RWKW @ 28 psi 330RWKW @ 3500 RPM (350 at 4000)