Kinkstaah

All 5 fuses in the system are fine. Wire hunting fun!

I often wonder how effective other appliances in life would be with 300KW of power.

To add on to that - by 'slow leak' we are talking it'll drop 1psi every 3-4 seconds and otherwise hold air from an air compressor fine... an air compressor which is switched off once boost was reached. (so not constantly being fed, and leaking) I showed trent on the dyno, this happens in Vacuum as well. You can be sitting at say, -10mmhg at a constant speed, and shift from 1-2-3-4 and the pressure in the manifold will change according to gear, regardless of anything else. When testing with springs on the wastegate (no boost controller) the wastegate will OPEN at say, 15psi in 2nd, then open at 20psi in 3rd. f**k me if anyone can explain how this is happening, all assumptions now assume it's an auto transmission thing, as opposed to anything turbo related.

So, went to start car today, fuel pump refuses to prime. sigh

I'm a terrible driver, I openly admit this. The amount of hilarious errors in all aspects of my life I share to bring the lols. Fun fact, the spare wheel that wasn't mine... was on because I hit a gutter with my own wheel like a retard, and split the sidewall a couple days earlier.

Totally because Greg. Probably a better driver may have managed to countersteer and avoid the kerb, but man, panic braking means very little went through my head. Still better than putting someone else' head through my front bar. +1 funnies because its a borrowed rim, which means mine is fine... I think it's repairable. Just looks like a lot of gutter rash. I do mean a *lot*. It isn't buckled, so I mean hey that's good.. I guess.. Guess whos' booking an alignment, though! Any pro tips re: Wheel fixers? I asked Alvin as he got my wheels I sold to him repaired and fixed and repainted but no reply because reasons.

Get tune, million of comical errors happen. Then lucky, Osaka imports open, and have the part I need that I spent many hours yesterday trying to get around. Ace! Drive there, obtain parts, two infact. Correct issue with MAP sensor, so car actually running on flex fuel. So good! Test traction control, as it's wet outside. Working so well. So effective. Listening to new album from favourite band, rocking out hard. Life is good. Great start to the day! Then suddenly, kids run out infront of car. 1m (or what seemed like it) away. Panic-brake, pull wheel in direction of "not someone's f**king kids", rear end loses it, end up mounting the kerb and parking on the nature strip in a very uncontrolled fashion. Get out, yell at kids until they're crying because f**k SAKE. not even my wheel ffs

They literally have the same ECU as mentioned above. I'd be checking ABS, mainly cause TC was your issue, and you didn't have (either!) TC light on. So maybe your ABS light is also mysteriously on. Would have been interesting to see if this whole thread would have happened if the light bulbs were in the dash to begin with, hehe. Leave the sensors and stuff connected, just remove the plate. When when you can confirm everything is working right, everything is where you need it to be, and you know what's going on with it all... then pull the light out

Tcs switch is a button... Not a switch After looking at the entire system due to installing aftermarket traction control..... TCS is entirely its own thing... It should have happened with either ECU surely... As GTSBoy says... Check your ABS actually works. It uses the same speed sensors the Traction control does.... Which has a fault.

+1 for more story

I really really want to know the hard numbers on how many people are actually intolerant to fructose, gluten, this and that, breathing unfiltered air, other peoples opinions or the colour green. Seriously, its starting to feel like an epidemic of people allergic to all sorts of stupid shit. I mean go back five years, had anyone even heard of being allergic or intolerant to fruit? fruit????

I read the above and honestly thought the whole ultra fancy proposal was more schnookish than being a regular joe. But hey, that's just me. I can't stand people who are impressed by such things. Especially women. Man, that discussion about 15K rings had my actually chuckling at work. I didn't think people were actually interested in that kind of thing, like, not really

If I could have my time again, I would get the R34 GTT plugin from Haltech. It is literally as simple as unplugging the old ECU and plugging in the Haltech ECU. 0 wiring and all the benefits of a Haltech. -PS2000 user

I'd say that'd be more enraging and/or heartbreaking than "frustrating" depending on your definition of 'scathed'

Nothing in cars is more frustrating than almost getting something working.

But it was never really designed to 'pay itself off' it was designed to stop us running out of water to live with This costs money, just like insurance costs money

Until it becomes harder when it's not sold at a local pump

what that's the definition of mandatory

Victoria.

Re: Water temp, it really is 65. ECU and gauge which are independent of one another, both say the same thing. I suspect I got given the Nismo thermostat, which is 65C (despite asking for the 82C neo thermostat) ... twice... and replacing it twice. In any case I've asked Tuners and engine builders whether tuning it/running it at 65C is going to cause issues and I've been told its fine as long as the engine is tuned with that in mind, in other words, not running enrichment at that point, which it isn't. Concerned about engine life by running it too cold, was told this isn't a problem. ...dunno if right In any case this is why I was after oil temp. 100% certain it's not sitting at 70C after ample use of the loud pedal. Going back to sandwich plates, is there a downside to using the $30 china special sandwich plate over the $300 Greddy/HPI/Other Brand name item? Are they prone to leaking and such? I see it as adding an additional item which could break, or more accurately mysteriously do something unknown which is pretty standard fare for anything I touch, ever.

The idea was just to get the gauge going in a simple fashion. Then see if a cooler is needed, I have a feeling oil temp won't be the first thing to get into the "danger will robinson" category on the track. My water temp didn't see above 70 doing a drift day, so who knows what oil temp is, or not. I went to check, and found my standard oil/water/heat/exchanger is a N/A one, which has a welch plug instead of a bung for a sensor. fffffuuu So now I can choose T piece (inaccurate, cheap), sandwich plate (expensive, accurate), or replace the heat exchanger with the correct unit. (cheap, messy, accurate) Waaah.

a genuine tragedy

What about the original suggestion in the thread? By using the factory position my means of a small adaptor, seemed simple and easy as well. Easier, even. Or is it much the same as using a T piece? I opted to simply get that small adaptor and re-use a factory sensor location that's currently doing nothing. Just to make use of a gauge that was pre-installed when I picked up the car. (in my case I don't suspect oil temp to be the first 'point of failure' in terms of things getting too hot).

Looks like here -> http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438407-fitting-an-oil-temp-sensor-without-sandwich-plate/ Which I've read many times, but only now actually seem to understand it that its been done a couple ways. One was the way I mentioned before which supposedly is 2-3 seconds lag which aint so bad. Also in that thread is a link to an adaptor for the factory oil temp sensor plug, which seems like as good/better idea, for the same cost of a T piece anyway. At least it's in the location a Nissan Engineer decided was the best place to get oil temp from. Just incase googlers end up here ;-)

I am hijacking this because, well, I have a oil temp related gauge query. I have to replace the stock oil pressure sender which screws into the block. I have an oil temp gauge not connected to anything. I want to use a brass t piece between the block and the factory oil pressure sensor, and put a oil TEMPERATURE sender into this T piece, and wire the gauge to that. Is this a terrible plan, or is a simple 'fix' by means of a small adapter while I am down there going to literally ruin everything?