Kinkstaah

I also realised after I wrote Nistune a lot, that the person asking has a 33 Auto, to which I have NFI if Nistuning will work as they typically change the ECU to a Z32 or RB20 ECU to boot. Unsure if that even applies to Autos, actually.

Nistune, Nistune, Nistune, Nistune, Nistune, Nistune, Nistune with a side of Nistune. Just Nistune. Nistune is what you want. Nistune is what everyone should want.

My car originally was a N/A. So it was the N/A transmission that got sent. I was under the impression from reading (here) that the N/A R34 transmission is much the same, before it gets built anyway. I have since learned this is not true, and MV didn't mention this to me either before they built what I sent them. I sent the entire transmission to MV for a stage 2 build. Everything bar going completely full manual, because as a Triptronic I had the ability to select gears already, so that feature wasn't needed (for a 33 I would have gone full manual, or actually just manual) It was put in the car (220-250rwkw at the time) Lasted about 10,000kms then every gear was neutral. The entire transmission was binned, I have never ever heard anyone give a more scathing review of another workshop's work before, the only part that was re-used was the billet servo piston and the trans cooler. I couldn't get much more detail than "every single component is ruined". He did list the components that were ruined, and showed them to me when I went there, but I couldn't really make sense of them other than "The reason every gear was neutral is the filter is full of broken transmission pieces" Given no-one else has reported a MV shift kit actually dying, I suspect this is more to do with it not getting enough line pressure from the stock R34 N/A TCU, or a lesser design in the N/A transmission as opposed to MV's actual work.

I have a PCS2000 TCM on my car, I don't really know of anyone else who has it. I got it, because I mauled a MV shift kit in about 10,000kms. The R34 has triptronic, if you were R33 I wouldn't be using this as you don't have both 'modes' to play with. Obviously picking the RPM you want is better than tinkering with things. It lets you control every variable. So not just TCM lockup, but the amount of line pressure you want, shift points, on a 3D table with input (either MAP sensor or TPS) (tps in my case) In short, in "d" mode I have a car which uses very bugger all pressure down low, and you can adjust the behaviour of when you want it to shift. Essentially you have taxi mode. In triptronic mode, you get full manual control with spinebreaking shifts at the literal press of a button. In triptronic mode, at low throttle and low speed (say, changing from 1st to 2nd, to 3rd, to 4th) under 40kph, you feel nothing at all. Try it at 3k at half throttle from 1-2 and you will feel it. Try it at 3k RPM at full throttle and you will feel it more. Try it at 7k RPM, full throttle and you will REALLY feel it. (well, I have no grip here but I assume I'd definitely feel it) I was told this behaviour isn't possible without a computer, that the harder shifting you want up top of the rev range, you get twice as hard shifts down lower in the rev range. No way to get smooth shifts down low and massively tight shifts up top without a computer. This is what I have been told, seems to line up with peoples experiences with shift kits. The item cost about 1k (shipping from US) cost about another 1k to tune. I have spent more on my transmission than most.. and honestly I understand why people do not do this. I don't really have enough of a reference point driving anyone else's car to really compare as to whether it's worth it, though. Maybe one person will say "Man, this is better than a manual" and then instantly it will be worth all the pain and suffering this thing has caused me.

I believe you can do exactly that. It is also possible to have a completely standalone computer (at least for the R34) for the automatic side of things. This is probably 'better' than going full manual, because you can configure absolutely everything that a transmission can do.

This really needs to be tested on a dyno. Do one run with it fully off. Another run with it on. Switch it when they bisect, basically. Seems to vary a little with every setup.

The cheapest and easiest and best and most little dramariffic way to get an AWD ~300hp Nissan Skyline is to get a GTR and leave it stock

The problem with the above idea is that even though Stao may say this, if it fails, or doesn't perform, most people don't typically go: "Oh well, I was told this would happen" Well they say the above, but are still angry/resentful and don't feel happy about the product or service that they just paid for. Stao is very, very, very, very mindful of people who have a bad time, and wants everyone to have a good time, and as a business owner it just makes sense to have that kind of policy. Especially in a field like aftermarket car upgrades, where everyone is extremely happy to point fingers and lay blame on anything they can.

If listed all the go fast bits on my car, people would think AMAGAD BUILD THREAD??? but it performs rather.. averagely. Not bad, just averagely. It has Tomei type B's in it (engine is 2.8L), adjustable cam gears, and I'm not 100% certain that it's all the way it should be. It probably isn't actually wrong, but I doubt it's completely right so it'll bug me until it's checked. I've also read many places on SAU that having an adjustable exhaust cam gear is of benefit. So I got one, with my cams, and no one has ever actually adjusted it to see if it does anything. Just a "she'll be right mate its designed to be on +0" in which case why even make the item?

Can't outrage/outoffended fury dat calm logic.

Worked at a religious organization for awhile (am atheist) Wasn't actually that bad. Some raging internal emails about what people should do about X, or Y, or Z or view A were hilarious to witness though. Like watching two five year olds argue when they're both hilariously wrong.

It is, but its not 'hard' and there's no mystery to any of it. You'd think my money was as good as anyone else's.

It's niggly things that require welding, (sender units for gauges), and wiring etc. Map sensor, Wideband controllers, maybe some dyno time to see the differences in a manifold and gate (assuming these help, typically they should), crap like changing a wheel hub/bearing etc, cam timing, cam gears, valve adjustments. Simple stuff, just annoying/time consuming, basic but stuff you want to know is done right, because I can't be confident it was right in the past. I had actually planned to do this initially, at least the welding parts! But I was told "they can do everything" by the shop, so I said here's a big well detailed list with info, let me know. If all else fails I will actually park it outside Scotty's and just ask him to let it get stolen.

Yeah, I won't be a troublesome customer, I typically am not and pretty chill given experiences in the past. (all nightmarish) Just annoying if you call a month in advance, deliberately holding off until someone will be available to work on it

Drop car off somewhere for some simple stuff done, wait a week, call to see how its going, get epically disinterested response. Gotta love Melbourne mechanics.

This is exactly what I plan on doing if I melt anything again, bypassing the plug itself. The wire inside the tank running to the pump itself seems to be rather thick and 'beefy', if it melts I'll get really ragey again and just wire directly to it. If I go to that extent, I may replace the wire inside of the tank because I'll be in the vicinity anyway.. CAN CONFIRM 7.5 AMP WIRE WILL MELT SHIT IN YOUR FUEL SYSTEM WITH A 460LPH PUMP. (this is bad) I would have taken a photo of the remains of the fuse, but it crumbled to pieces like dust when I touched it.

Changing the pump should do absolutely nothing if you're upgrading pumps. Keep in mind you'd want to check your wiring when using a 460L - I've had wires melt twice due to some shoddy worksmanship on mine.

They are termed GT and GTS and GTST and GTT for a reason after all

dat cool change.

I have had an 040 die, and yes it buzzed loudly before it did it. The filter is kind of crap - It is NOT removable. You can clean it out a bit with brake cleaner and the like and put it back in. It's really very thin and there isn't much space behind it. I removed it (after cleaning it 2-3 times) and the damn thing died about 1km away. The difference between completely clogged and completely clean is very very VERY minimal (visually) I never noticed my car do anything other than run until the pump flat out died. If you're way down on power, and banging and popping and backfiring, well I have a pump I can sell you

The truth is if they do it right, you can't tell anyway.

I'd wager the theory is intake heat causing pinging.. the issue is crazy pinging when it shouldn't be, I believe a few people on page 1 were mentioning IAT as well as a likely potential cause. Seeing the two dyno sheets with different turbos almost being exactly the same, for the same reason (ping city) would also encourage something intakey.. and the intake hasn't changed and neither has the problem

So to summarize - It won't take timing, but WILL hold boost but refuses to take timing as the revs climb? Does it take less timing the higher the RPM it's getting? Is it simply not making power because feeding the appropriate amount of timing into it will result in ping city? How much power does 8-10 degrees of timing get you anyway?

Can confirm - RB25/26 Pistons will result in a HIGH compression ratio on a neo. Source: my rb29 stroker kit with compatible pistons. (they aren't) Also good to see the results of the ATR, given I was going to try something almost identical, (or a SS4-5 compressor) and 30psi. If my car stops exploding.

Yes, the previous owners of this car and my daily are both dead. There is a running joke that the cars ARE cursed and they break until you sell them, then they kill you after and it continues. I've had it 6 and a half years, and done 25,000ish kms. Its supposed to be a daily doing ~40km a day Also the tow cost $532.