Kinkstaah

That last sentence makes me actually worried, just reading it on page 17 of this thread.. One does not simply add 6 degrees to the map and mess with the CAS

No, you need one of these -> http://store.haltech.com/default/can-devices/can-wideband-kits.html Whether you want 1 or two sensors is up to you Keep in in mind Mr Haltech says the sensor should be 1 metre from the turbo exhaust housing to avoid it dying too quickly. The stock one is clearly not 1 metre from the housing. Mine is mounted in my cat. Also note, haltech are out of gauges. So if you buy the set with the gauge expect them to say "shit we don't have a gauge" However the CAN controller has nicely labelled wiring for a gauge. Anything that reads 0v as 10 AFR and 5v as 20AFR will do. Playing with idle AFR and cruise AFR is fun. Btw, the PS2000 does everything in Lambda (you can change it to show "AFR" if you want). Which means the flex sensor does its shit, so you know 1.0 lambda will show as 14.7 AFR, regardless of if you have 20% E85 in the tank or 47% or 100%. So no need to wonder if 11.7 AFR is rich, or lean, or perfect if you're on 3psi at 67% E85 in the tank.

It isn't just that though Gearbox IS different (inside, had an auto guy literally laugh at the GT gearbox (after being built up by MV autos) whereas the GTT one he said "this is a muuuch better design and is quite nice" Driveshaft, diff is different. Bracing for everything is different. Have to ask why Nissan beefed it all up. So you could do what I did, which is a) replace GT engine with GTT engine b) replace GT transmission with GTT transmission c) replace GT brakes with GTST/356mm BBK d) replace entire suspension setup e) replace exhaust (the GTT one aint great but lol better than the GT surely) f) replace fuel pump/entire fuel pump wiring (its terrible in GT) g) replace diff Its not just the engine, if you want to put a GTT engine into a GT, and want it to work just like a GTT, you will end up replacing every major component with GTT spec (or better). Which means you end up replacing the entire car anyway. If you're going to do that, there's a simple, easy way to swap it all at once, which is buy a GTT.

I have this exact setup. it is excellent and takes a grand total of about ten minutes to set up and configure. The PS2000 handles it stupidly easily. Get their CAN kit and it's literally plug and play, select the AFR you want and you're golden. Plus you can set a million engine safety variables based on AFR and load. It apparently disables itself if anything goes a little odd or it doesn't update 200 times a second (lol). Configuring it right is hilariously easy. And if you're really paranoid, you can set the % of enrichment you want the controller to do, or set it if you only want to let it add fuel (i.e never pull fuel to hit a target AFR) plus you can do fun shit like tune your own car, and idle and shit. just buy it i do not work for haltech

its taken scotty a month to do mine It can be done, but... just... gah. Enough little differences in my GT shell that scotty has shown me over the GTT one to make me jump on the 'don't do it' bandwagon. It is legal to do so, at least in VIC, as I have done it. You will need to at least have R33 GTST/R32 GTR brakes up front.

My ride quality in the Bilsteins vs 'whats on there' was pretty similar, enough that people were saying 'dude just leave these in there and save the trouble!' Except you could drift the car around quite easily with stock power. Which is great, it was consistent and smooth, but stock power, vs having CONSIDERABLY more actual grip under power... with near on 400rwkw. Honestly, you have to have your suspension fit your need. If you are only ever going to have 260rwkw in a punchy setup, you prob don't need or want to spend 4k on getting it to hold onto the road, because you don't need it. See housemate's shockworks S15, with 250rwkw it juuussst loses grip on power, but add 100RWKW on it and it'd be undrivable in a straight line. Srsly the best cars no matter what level they are, are the ones where everything is matched up properly to what you're doing with it.

I recently bought a GTT which had some kind of hard jap coilover on them. Nfi what they are, never heard of them. They are hard. My previous car has Bilsteins which is the "I WANT EVERY OPTION POSSIBLE" from Sydneykid which I spent over $4000 on for everything. Pretty much best mod I've made. After driving the standard GTT with these (conceivably cheap?) hard coils on them, I can immediately feel the difference in trying to drive from what was probably the 'best' (or at least better?) setup vs a cheap set of hard coils. It's just night and day. I can also attest Shockworks stuff is good too - Housemate has a S15 with a set and the attention they put in for valving and drivability and most importantly the real question which is 'what do you want the car to be good for?' 'what are you planning to do with the car, please provide percentages' Which really is the answer as to how good your 'budget' suspension will be. IMO, save up and buy it once, properly, and you won't regret doing so (PS, N/A R34's have eyelet rears. Turbos have fork rears)

I had a na (not my choice) that I turned into a fully built auto everything in short, buy gtt Simply looking at the stuff on a GT, vs whats REALLY on the GTT you will buy a GTT. There's differences in little things all over the place. Sell NA to a P plater. Buy GTT. It is the smartest thing you will ever do.

I am yet to see a travel blogger who does it to show off, or say how awesome or cultured they are. The travellers you see and meet out there doing things are almost always the most genuine, friendly people who believe the best in humanity, they're doing it because someone asked them to, or because they want to share the fun and experiences they have experienced. These people are more often that not just curious explorers going out there to find things/lifestyle/people that are different from they are and wanting to learn, gain more experience, just say hello and generally be nice people. I personally took notes on my (short) trips mainly because a) I can refer people who ask SO MAN HOW WAS YOUR TRIP and just point them to it and they can read if they cbf b) So I personally remember the things that happened, i.e for my own sake because my memory is poor. Not saying you shouldn't drink beer in Germany, you should. Get all in on any local food and drink you can, wherever you go. More so the people 'you know' who go to somewhere like Thailand specifically and exclusively for cheap drink/binge/party session then act as though they're cultured and awesome travellers. They may or may not own jetski's and malloo utes I'm all for people doing it because they want a cheap party trip, as long as they admit that's why they went there, but I have to admit to pure rage any time I see some non-western town with a 'tourist' area of westernized sales gaudy shit in it. Selling out their own culture for the $ makes me really angry at the party dickheads who go there because WHOOOO $2 COCKTAILS f**k YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAH

If you've travelled to the middle of nowhere and get welcomed into a strangers home and drink local whatever drink and can't speak the language and everyone is laughing and having a great time AND you don't die ... then yes you're doing it right edit: globatrol.com is absolutely doing it right

Having done a bit of travel I can attest the best travel is going to places no one goes to. If the highlight of your trip is beer and/or party whoa you have wasted your time and don't even know it .... unashamed travel hipster

$500! Can you buy 4 new tyres for $500? Ordinarily I'd say no But now you can, they even come on wheels!

+1 for the 'not actually stock turbos' Given -7's and -9's and -5's look identical from the outside to stock turbos, I'm going to say they aren't ...they are also what Hypergear are up against in terms of 'bolt on 100% legal high flow-looking' turbo options, curious to see if Stao can get turbos to respond that well and make 375rwkw on E85 and look entirely standard which is what a -9 will do Or more than 500+rwkw which is what gtx2863 fronts will do in standard housings

Yep, I was told the "pads for k-sport/d2" should fit but you may need to modify/grind the pad a bit to fit, which meant it didn't fit. Either that or buy the actual pads from the JJ site. So will these fit without modifications? Also Simon, the green pads that come with them are baaaaad. I mean they're good for street, and by 'good for street' I actually mean I had a fair amount of brake fade in the hills with a 356mm set vs the standard brakes which had none. hence the research into pads

Simon if you can ever find brake pads for that kit I'd love to know, as I have the same Kit and Just Jap have no idea which pads actually fit it which was fantastic

Unless you leave it in the engine bay Go Nistune, unless you absolutely need a feature that Nistune cannot provide. Then again, given the setup (high mount and FFP).. looking stock is not high on the list of priorities

Yep, one that needs an engineering cert to clear, to boot. Put it in a 33 or a 32 lol. It would have been considerably easy to just stockify the R33 it came out vs pulling the engine out and putting it into another car. Or just nistune/highflow its stock officeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

With all due respect to the esteemed Mr Birds, trolling or not, this statement must be mocked for being incorrect.

Yep. BB works as well. Puts it in plain text format, but it works enough. I am using the Pulse theme

Howdy y'all Came off a R34 I bought which needed 4 new tyres for a RWC. Great for, uh... RWC. Or selling your own car and keeping wheels, and/or any reason you may want them, I won't judge. Use them as tables or something. Tyres cost more than $150ea, selling all 4 for $600 with appopriate discounts for boobs.

This drives me absolutely insane at home using IE (yeah yeah) Happens on IE11 and 10 (don't have any other versions). Happens in normal and 'full' editor mode. Have yet to try it in BB code mode but will do so and try this.

The real smart option is sell the un-built-up yet car and buy someone else's finished project car then change the styling/bits to suit what your end goal is. This saves you monstrous amounts of time and money in the long run.

If its a major rebuilt R33 engine, I would simply put it into a R33 GTST shell which could be had very not very much at all, lol.

I was going to jokingly refer scotty nm35 as above, as I am sure he is very much over currently wiring approximately everything in my car. Putting a R33 RB25 into a R34 is just like argh man, why! I would wager it would be simpler to pay someone to remove the R33 RB25 and put a R34 RB25DET Neo in there, vs trying to find someone to get all that wiring to work.

The plates do kind of beg for it. As do (in that photo) the tyres that sit wildly outside the guards? Also burwood/knox What was the defect actually for?