Kinkstaah

+1 for actually trying the various fixes for the card the fact that its intel is a good thing, means its been explored before and fixed

Hi Folks, I have some R34 Standard bits and pieces that I do not need. I was going to post up more, but some of it (not listed) is still stuck on the car because the engine blew up and it's in a workshop. So please buy some of it so I can afford to get it fixed thanks. Note: I am unsure on some pricing. If you see it elsewhere listed for less, sold for less in the past etc, just PM me and I will adjust to suit. THE PANELS ARE IN KV2 PAINT COLOR Left and Right Front Guards $300 Bonnet+ Latches etc $180 Front Plastic Guards for infront of Wheels (pair) $90 Reo Bar 200 (just the actual bar, not the headlight supports, unless you want free S2 headlight supports) Front Bar (series 2, headlight supports can be thrown in to fit it) 100 Headlights (pair) $300 Front Wipers $40 4x Stock Wheels (brand new tyres, literally 5km on them) $400 Window Switches FOR A SEDAN - All 4 doors. $60 Head Unit (Clarion, its blue.. it works... etc) $40 R34 Auto Transmission $150 - This is in retardedly un-farked condition. Believe me, I'm from the internet. Radiator 80 Radiator Shroud 50 (please take them both) STD Front Sway Bar 40 Front Indicators (series 1) 40 Sedan Rear Lights 150 R34 Stock Turbo Triple gauges + plug $100? R34 Indicator Stalk $40 R34 AUTO clock spring $100 R34 Front Strut Brace $40? VDO Digital Oil temperature gauge. 52mm. Works perfectly. $60 I'd really, really, really, really, really, really prefer pickup over sending them. Unless you want like, the entire front end in which case i'll lop the price off and send it.

Sorry for future searchers (thought I updated this) None of this is available. I ended up getting it put into a new body.

It isn't one of those fancy laptops with a 3g card in it? As in, not actually on your wifi?

Really goes to show how much 'boost' is really a measure of restriction as opposed to flow there. lol 3.8 psi.

holy shit someone benefitted from my various miseries karma come at me any time now

This was my exact experience. I have heard other people run into walls at ~330-370kw with mysterious fuel problems on R34's when everything else seems ok, replace the filter. At least on E85. I upgraded to 1400's thinking my 1000's had maxxed out but found out that wasn't the case. 1000's on e85 seem to really get hairy at 400, though some people reckon they've done 450+ on them? Can never really have too much injector headroom nowadays anyway. Good enough excuse to upgrade

What fuel filter are you using? I'm not joking. I upgraded the injectors in your situation and had a limitation at that exact point. Mind you, this is 372rwkw. It's getting 'up there' for 1000s. If your AFR's start OK then start to leeeean out to about 12-13 as you really get into it.... seriously try something else instead of a Ryco filter. Try a dyno run without one.

Don't get me wrong, I understand as good as anyone how subjective value is still value. And cars beyond your basic corolla are really all subjective value. Noone 'needs' a high performance anything. What do you get for a R34 over a R33, really. A bodykit? How much time do you spend looking at that bodykit when you're driving the car around? What's the ratio looking at it vs utilizing it as a vehicle? Personally I have no subjective view of either. But if you could give me one or the other, as an objective choice, for what you have specified you want the car for, it's kind of a no brainer man. The cars really shouldn't be similar prices, and most of the time they aren't. A nice clean (actually clean) R34 GTR for 45K vs a brand new R35 for 180K there's obviously a different scenario. But if they're both similar price, then, well. Objectively there's no decision to make. Subjectively, it's all on you, man. You probably won't be upset with either, which is a good thing!

Anything decent in the front half of the car should be moved into the front half of whatever car replaces this one.

Tbh really you're paying for function or form. The R35 is better in every way. It is. Value for money speaking, the R34 is really quite a joke when seen through non-nostalgic eyes, there's absolutely no way they should ever be considered close in price to a R35. The R33 GTR is priced appropriately. The R35 GTR is priced "appropriately". People paying 70+ for a R34 GTR need their head checked, no matter how clean it is. It has at that point left the realm of logical thought and no amount of logical discussion will sway such a person, because logic is no longer applying Would you pay 70k+ for the cleanest R33 GTR? It's almost what you're doing. 40k premium for a facelift? The R35 is a facelift with a lot of extras over the 34. You said it's mainly for the street. One of them (not the 34) is going to be noticeably better for the street. All of the objective reasons in the world are pointing directly in the 35's favour.

Ron, I'm just going to say this. My car when running had perfect AFR's, and I mean wideband, wideband controllers, everything. I'm talking it'd sit between 14.5 to 15.1 AFR the entire time, on cruise, all day, every day. Cold starts were lovely. It'd be a nice curve from 14.7 to 13.0 on boost and 11.9 on full throttle. It was lovely. My fuel economy wasn't much better than yours. I'm talking 250L from a tank on E85 (55liter fill up). Better on 98, but still very much in the ballpark of what you're experiencing. If your AFR's are fine on the dyno, then it's done. Your fuel is what it is. That's it. There is nothing to be fixed there, unless you want to play with a wideband and see the cell that is 20% throttle and 3PSI of boost is actually got an AFR of 9.0 or something in it. If it doesn't, then that's it. That's your economy. You find this out in about thirty seconds upon having a wideband, btw.

At least the money in your pocket beats this scenario "Such a nice day, might take the Skyline for a dr..." "I'm onto my 5th engine in 25,000kms in the course of 7 years"

-9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9. In all seriousness, its basically an actual high flow for Garrett designed specifically for the RB26. Holy -9 batman.

I was able to get my car in with shannons for 30k without them sighting it... I was curious to what i'd be able to wager if they saw the thing. Probably less. Especially if they ask me to start it right now.... R34 ineligible for RACV classic. Too new. Does feel kind of dirty seeing a R33 GTST eligible but a R34 not.

Before my engine met its fourth untimely demise, I was going to ask a boost related query. Mind you this is a 4 speed auto that's been built a lot. 1st gear would see 22psi at about 4k and bleed off to about 21. 2nd gear would see 25psi and then bleed off to about 24. 3rd gear would see 29 psi and bleed off to about 25. 4th gear (lol) would see 30psi and crack the wastegate which is what the boost controller was set to. There were no boost leaks in the system that were obvious. There were concerns about the FMIC not liking it and maybe not flowing boost through, but it certainly made no audible sound when an air compressor was attached to the intake. On the dyno, it made 30PSI at about 3200 RPM, in 3rd gear. The on-road experience was different. Is this load related? The vibe I always got was that "boost is later with less load" which makes sense, but I also got that it was a few RPM difference between first gear and top gear, not multiple PSI. Just curious to hear what others experience in 'the real world'

I'd do many kinds of illegal things to get my engine up and non-f**ked sooner. Yes, many.

I tried that, but it exploded before it left the dyno (before I took receipt of the engine that was put in to do just that) So I got it forged and stroked to 2.8-9L via Mr Brian Crower. It did not hard stall the 2nd time. It'll actually start and run on what seems to be 5 cylinders, but yeah obviously I'm not wanting to press my luck by continuing to do that.

Originally, this happened: This was apparently fixed. I suspect it's become un-fixed. It's entirely possible it's not that, and an entirely different cylinder, or gasket, etc. All I can go on is that it behaved itself perfectly on the dyno, so no one really suspected a thing. Can't really know what damage has been done till it's all pulled apart, the bottom end may not have survived the second time. That said, the second death was certainly less explosive than the first, which was a good ol fashioned hard stall at 7000 RPM at undisclosed speed.

I entirely understand it makes me lol too unsure why - serenity now

It's currently still all in the car, and I'm not on speaking terms with it right now. The head did get ported and polished, then it exploded, then "fixed" and now I suspect it exploded again simply due to the fact that my entire radiators contents appears to have exited through the exhaust. So that's nice. Last time (can't believe I'm typing this really) the bottom end turned out to be completely straight. Really hoping it'd be a case of "put a standard head on" and move the cams from the dead one to the new standard one. However things typically rarely go as planned and/or end up being best case scenario so I'm sure it will cost $100,000 and take approximately seventeen years to get running again.

The dynamite has in fact, gone boom. So, whos the go-to guy for re-assembling an engine with a minimum amount of fuss, quick turnaround and/or a minimum amount of utter bullshit? Is there even anyone anymore?

but.... it didn't det on the dyno... I was wearing knock ears... so was trent.. it .. IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN GOOD GOD DAMNIT GOD DAMNIT

Dat E85! Never pings, never fouls Destroy a plug with evidence of pinging and fouling.

Testing boost. (cant seem to crack gate... ever) Developed misfire. Shit.