Kinkstaah

Sorry, I meant it from the perspective of someone who has spend 8k+ on his auto in his R34 through various means, shift kits, standalone ECUs, coolers, etc. Its great, when it works. When it doesn't, manual time. If you never go above 300rwkw, sure, I suppose it can work, but for how long? I imagine I will break mine again in short order if my car is ever back on the road again, and when that happens, yeah, people typically don't go "Well I will down grade from 380rwkw to 240rwkw" they just go manual

As someone who has done it once, and done it right..... "doing it right" = Manual conversion

It matters, a lot. Not as much as you'd get this result though, there's more than just that at play.. I also vote there's some massive boost leak somewhere too, for bonus points

The reo bar (big metal bit in the middle) is the same. The black headlight support things (can't think of a better name) are what's different between series 1 and 2 fitment. They are literally the only difference. Forgive my paint skills. Red parts are what you need, but the middle bar above the reo is a different part but will fit.

A certain well reputed workshop I would never go back to, which is I guess why threads like this exist because I'm not the only one. The truth is, if you want a quick car, just look at f**kin Richo's car. Stock engine, hiflow. Spend everything else in learning to drive and having something that stops and goes around a corner. Cheaper, way more fun, way less time invested in f**king around and so on. That is where the smart money goes, absolutely what I'd do if I could go back in time.

I think this should be noted as an achievement

Oop.. for some reason I didn't read the thread properly and thought OP was trying to get a manual nistune working on an Auto R34, not a stagea, which seems to have a similar setup to a R34 N/A (seperate TCM) You could just get an external TCU entirely, but lol don't. Just put a manual in. If it's out of the question, wait until it is part of the question. As before, NISTune would know, but I wouldn't beleive them until I got your own, original, factory intended ECU to be NISTuned' or you could confirm 100% that the ECU you had was from an Auto Stagea. Source: Painful, painful, painful auto experiences with my own car

The R34 Auto ECU actually has 22 extra pins on it compared to the manual one. If the manual ECU literally doesn't have these pins going to sensors and solenoids that the auto ECU needs, then,um, I can't see it working? UNLESS the difference really is just on the plug, and the R34 manual LOOM doesn't have wires coming out of the other end of the plug. I don't know. Never seen a manual ECU/loom But there's definitely extra pins in the workshop manual!

I carry 2 myki's on me at all times

I figure someone will find it amusing

Engine build complete. Putting engine back into car "hey greg, um, this is your GTX3076R compressor wheel"

I'm so oldschool I laugh and scoff at all CS players being n00bs who couldn't play a real shooter so they played one that made them miss and make you unable to move or shoot accurately anyway. .....and then there were no more arena FPS's QQ WTF BBQ

I won't be too worried about the fuel, it has a wideband controller and a gauge and I'm familiar enough with the Haltech that I can change fuel maps on the fly to get it happy. Main problem was as GTSboy has mentioned, the time it takes to get the timing right.... is critical time to make sure the engine is being run in at all. It's on E85, so pinging was never a problem. I don't know how 'much' timing to pull to accompany 8.2 to 9 CR. I can easily just pull -X degrees everywhere and then go for a drive, my main concern was pulling too much, could affect how the run in is actually done. Can confirm I don't care about power during the run in. The 'problem' is the previous engine kind of made 350RWKW at 4000rpm. If you're trying to "Load it up" in a high gear at medium RPM then there's a good chance that uh, it's kind of party time in those cells..... with a different CR. The characteristics of the engine meant 5-10 psi happened quite a lot while just cruising around at 30-50% throttle at 2-3k rpm. You could argue that that's pretty ideal for running an engine in. If E85 isn't a big deal, or doesn't cause any crazy problems for bedding an engine in, then that's a great piece of news for me, because it may only need 'minimal' adjustment to account for the extra CR, which isn't that much, I'm not going from 8.2 to 13.5 or anything of that nature.

I have read that in the past... Fuel won't be an issue as the car has a (correctly working) wideband. Timing obviously need a dyno. I'll obviously at least check things on the dyno. I don't know how much difference 8.2 to 9.0 CR will result in. Does anyone? That link almost insinuates first turn of the key is on a Dyno then immediately do a 400RWKW power pull. But I've also read people build engines and then "run them in" on the way to the drag strip in the morning and then go do passes at 175mph. I'm just looking for some info. The tuner may very well say "Hmmm, I'm not sure either?" therefore I was curious if anyone had done it and their results of doing so.. if available.

Hi Folks, and especially those in the know. Dumb question time About to have yet another freshly rebuilt engine to do a run in on. However, before it felt the need to be rebuilt, it was an 8.2:1 CR running E85 (but has flex capability) It will now be 9.01:1. My questions are: 1) Conventional wisdom (google) says that washing bores down is usually due to too much fuel and rah rah rah. Given E85 is using 30% more fuel pretty much all the time, would be swapping back to 98 pretty much vital or does E85 do magic to ensure this is a non issue? 2) With the CR increase, would I need to be dropping timing in the area that is OFF boost. If so, how much? Can I just drop a blanket -X degrees and "she'll be right mate" or is this epically stupid? I've been advised that the way to do the run in (by the guys building engine) is 500 or so kms of easy, off boost, varied driving but not too much load (i.e, pretty much off boost) just to get it all rotating. Then dump oil, and 500kms or so on 'some' load. In this case, sort of half throttle, 3-5 psi, up hills, a little bit but no crazy WOT 30PSI "load" Then drop the oil again and tune. They however weren't really sure on 1) and 2) above. Thoughts? Surely someone has had to run in an engine which has more comp ratio after a rebuild and thought "hhmmmm..."

You'd think if TT say it can't fit... that's good advice. I've dealt with them a couple times with weird shit and they certainly went out of their way to "make it work", so if they say IMPOSSIBRU!!!! they are likely speaking from a good vantage point?

Friend I know literally walked into a guys house and bought the house from him directly. No agents, no sales people no nothing. Everyone wins.

I guess my point is "public opinion" has no real bearing on the ability for the Government to function, or for people to do their jobs. Given "public opinion" is what dictates whether people stay in their jobs, there's a massive disconnect between people's ability to do their job, and the function that gives them the job. That's the problem with the entire system.

I didn't think it was a major issue. People don't always know everything offhand. Also worth mentioning: people having a major sook about Abbott knighting people. Like, really, if this is an issue in the country, the country is doing just fine.

Yep, posting this now via pulse... on the PC Should have read this thread before changing it back from Deluxe to pulse, but it's now working on Pulse... on multiple PC's. Only difference is I now get a "warning" saying that I had marked emails from SAU as spam (I don't remember doing this) and that to change this behaviour I need to opt in again. That wasn't there before I had this issue though, and never changed any settings..

Yep... As soon as I set it back to pulse it uh... Died again....

Three different computers... One at a mates place, one at home... One at work The error is a standard error 500 thrown by IE. Other browser just throw a blank page. I can. Email them or post when uh, I have a PC. I am using the app on android ATM which works fine....

It's not really a bolt on turbo... Mine does NOT have a Garrett rear housing, it is a t3 with a vband rear on to a vband dump pipe. I imagine due to that different rear housings is why I do not need a spacer.

Do the highflow because everything will bolt in... Because all the bolts are in the same spot. That said I have a gtx3076r on the std manifold without a spacer, but as mentioned its not got a Garrett rear housing.

Nope... No amount of refreshing will get it to work... On any PC or browser, however the page will display fine (on any browser) if I am NOT logged in. Definitely follows the logon or cookie or something...