Kinkstaah

Tbh with a 6466 and proper tyres an 11 will be, well. Your setup is, well... VIOLENTLY overkill for that goal. 600RWKW and traction will end in tears, of happiness or otherwise with a 11s target

Similar to this, I have a suspect issue with my front shocks. Just really, really, crashy in situations where they really shouldn't be (smashing bump stops over speed bumps, for example). Is there anywhere decent that can take a look/diagnose/sort this out without giving the runaround/wild judgement/selling a new pair of shocks as a priority, etc? I know it's not an alignment question per se, but it's more of a "my suspension isn't really doing something right..." kind of thing.

99% 100%

6466 is certainly a huge turbo, but it's also about the most responsive way you'll make that kind of power right now. Either that or something EFR related. That said, getting a low 11 can be done in few ways, by brute force power as above or by spending the money elsewhere on tyres, suspension setup etc.

So what this is implying is that a Nismo 1.5way that fits a R33 center will fit a R34. Presumably viscous/viscous. Guess need to find out what that is. My worry is that I do infact need the code rings on the stub axles, both for traction control and ABS. I could never find out with complete confidence if the stub axles will or won't fit, but knowing that they are different at all (in the sense they HAVE abs code rings) made me think something else is probably different too, because.. just because they tend to be.

I am running the VLSD but I got SUPER lucky with the condition of the car I used as a donor car... so I expect with 400+ at the wheels it will only live so long. So much stuff is listed as compatible with R34 but I don't believe it, due to my TC setup I 'need' the two speed sensors on the half shafts. Like I am sure you can replace it with a R33 ABS system with R33 half shafts but what does ABS do in that scenario when it has 3 sensors instead of 4 all of a sudden? Noone seems to know this info, and having being burned enough times I can't even trust when websites say "suitable for R34" or "Suitable for all R200 diffs" cause there's differences, like always." The nismo part number is different for the 34 so it MUST be different which means something might be incompatible. It's enough to drive you crazy, and the amount of 2nd hand Kaaz and Nismo's going around just makes me outright sad when you can never be sure whether it will a) work b) can be made to work

If you find out what centers actually DO fit a GTT I'd love to know. I personally will be in this situation too sometime in the future, and I know Nismo have a different part number for the 1.5way vs all the other R200 diffs so I presume it must be different in some way.

delet pls ok

Just keep the -9's setup and swap when/if you get somehow EPA'ed up in Wodonga

Pat, if I get you on my insurance you're welcome to drive my car directly into anything extremely hard. Guaranteed to ruin all desire.

^--- Or you could just buy a 350Z and turbo it Much more room for wider tyres to grip to boot.

Are they confirmed to be exactly the same, internally though? As someone who is making above the general "safe" power for this gearbox and wanting to use it, the decisions as to what to actually do become a bit relevant vs going through the rigmarole of getting some other converted gearbox, i.e T56 or CD009 350/370Z box.

So... how does one organize what you did in Japan, Rekin? Did want to go to Japan and do something like that quite a bit, maybe even try and JDM road trip it but never really knew how to achieve it

It really depends on what is actually in the car. Are the injectors REALLY upgraded? If so, the stock NA Ecu will not run them. If they're really upgraded, well, then the e-manage has already had to have been tuned in some form to run with them. Has the engine really been built and forged? It seems very unlikely that someone would build and forge a NA engine and then put a turbo on that without a decent ECU or system to run it. Like super pants-on-head dumb. You'd just put a turbo engine in. If you're taking it back to stock, I'd be replacing as much as you can with actual stock bits. A stock NA exhaust would cost very little, as would a stock NA manifold. I'd be doing that as opposed to going to a fabricator shop to fab up a solution. If the exhaust is decent, dump is decent, turbo is decent then it may take some sleuthing to find out where it all went wrong or what limitation got hit. You may find that the guy put a forged turbo engine in but couldn't figure out the wiring to run the auto. Stranger things have happened.

When I looked under it was a real head-scratcher, but the assessor agreed with what the mechanic agreed. I should also say when Shannons offered me to buy back the wreck the price was .. uh.. $3500. So it's now back in another R34 sedan shell as you'd expect lol (and insured for more ) Point being is damage in OP's pic + insured for 10K, I would wager is absolutely written off, no doubt, no negotiation no thought, instantly.

Seems half my post got cut off or I forgot to finish it, lol. My piggyback (an emanage blue) did weird shit on the dyno and decided it wanted to advance timing 50 degrees after about 6000RPM. Why? Noone ever knew, but it ended up destructing an engine, after putting a GTT engine in. Sadness. The haltech PS2000 did work as a piggyback, however, the NA box did not live very long even though it was built up from MV autos, it got absolutely melted behind something like 250? kw at the time. You may not want massive power but most people do eventually want at least 250 and the autobox, even built, will create sadness if it is still the one from the NA, in my experience. Your options really are: a) Find a tuner that will tune it and maybe it won't randomly explode or do weird shit. Even then, you will be getting only comparable performance to a stock GTT turbo, I'd wager. Depends a bit on whats actually installed etc. Maybe more, maybe less. b) Get it back to stock as much as you can and buy the car you were after. Can sell bits. If turbo is good, well, hang onto it and keep it for GTT land. c) Strongly suggest buy Manual GTT over the auto one. If you can't drive manual, learn, it's a lot of fun and not nearly as hard as you'd think and you'll be really happy you did, guaranteed. (or you can just buy my car with 10 years of headaches solved now )

My car took a hit in the rear quarter panel, needed an arm and probably the rear quarter. Was insured for 30k and it was written off with Shannons. I would say you are absolutely written off there.

I had Sophos in a previous workplace and OH SHIT GOD NO f**k. But as is the case with all corporate AV, you only ever notice it when it does not work. Still, they all seem to be an utter complete waste of time, but clearly they can't be completely useless but oh man it feels like it.

I'll have you know my errors are comedic and cute, bringing endearment to my wacky ways. His was obviously a serious security breach which ruins families. I do not do such things. But it does go to show you the best AV is common sense and knowing how to computer.

I work in IT. Colleague next to me cryptolockered his own machine. Lols were had.

Unfortunately you can't do that, I have been in this exact situation in the past. The GTT Ecu will not run the GT gearbox unless you do some wiring. It's not actually that hard (think 20 wires that run from the separate gearbox controller need to be wired into the GTT ECU) but finding someone that will know this and do this took me literal years. The piggyback in this situation is the 'best' idea but in ALL SERIOUSNESS I would be doing EITHER: a) Aftermarket ECU for the Engine AND aftermarket ECU for the gearbox - no. Just... no. (this is what I did, the auto NA box is just shit.. b) GTT Engine, Manual Gearbox c) GTT Engine, TURBO Auto Gearbox (and wiring!) c) Un-turbo the current car and sell stock and buy b). It may not seem like any of these options are fun. They aren't. But they are going to be the least-painful options available. If it were me, I would be absolutely un-turboing the car and starting again. But you are about to run headlong into a massive

Skylines are not great P plater cars. Go a Honda. Something type R or S2000 or Clio RS or MX5 (or MX5 turbo if power/weight is your thing, but who looks under a MX5 anyway). Way more fun to be had there.

Thus SAU equilibrium is maintained, otherwise me dealing directly with Moh would result in luck and bad decisions dividing themselves by zero

The above fitment is something I am also interested in.. maybe with a 265 or suitable on it though. Please do advise. I'm quite a way off buying rims just yet.

Hamish or other knowledgable people. Lot of talk here regarding 18x9+30 in the front of a R34 GTT or GTST. GTR Rims, sizing etc. Lot of people run thin tyres on them, which 'fit' Can you fit a 265 tyre on a 18x9+30 rim at the front of a 34 GTT? Does it need guard work? Does it scrub? Etc etc. Basically want the most tyre I can fit in there. For bonus query, I plan to run about -3deg camber at the front, and have about 355mm center of wheel to guard. /shake fist at all you tyre stretching people skewering results.