Kinkstaah

I'm yet to go to Sandown in the dry with HICAS still enabled with busted rear wheel bearings and HICAS tie rod ends apparently. So it should be any day now.

I was happy to go there, but I'm really looking for a place that will repair/replace suspension geometry as opposed to just fixing the issue by selling coilovers. Seems like the actual springs and struts are the least of my worries now. That said I always thought the tail being a bit slidey was due to this torque spike as per here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_09/57eb13251b249_DynoGTX3582RPower.thumb.jpg.3d244a1923896738611d6b0dd20f2308.jpg.pagespeed.ce.mloANxsVLK.jpg

Can anyone actually recommend a suspension place that won't go "Oh it's a sedan, I see your money and your questions are beneath me and please stop lowering the property value of my amazing shop"? as this happens quite a lot

To be fair if I do go the whole hog and replace shocks and springs I would consider Shockworks or MCA really as the only two options to choose from. I may get away with a new set of coils, hicas lock bars and toe arms to suit, and two rear wheel bearings. Still somewhat shit when my initial complaint to get checked out was "hm, the front seems to be pretty happy to hit bump stops and isn't low"..

I thought about this but I was under the impression the setup I had was great. Certainly felt fine, though wanted to see what the Shockworks R34 felt like. I suspected nothing was even wrong with the rear end actually. Just thought the front was hitting the stops a bit too eagerly and was a little low. But nope, apparently the rear is so bad it'd be 'suicidal' to drive it. I'd really rather not pay $5k to get it into an approved setup lol.

Took car to suspension place, for front suspension being abit crashy. Advise is to replace entire coilover system, entire rear subframe, both rear wheel bearings and lockout bars galore - None of which they are willing to take on for any amount of money. Good times.

Updated my result from awhile back with: 1x 3in to 3.5in exhaust, with gate plumbed back now as opposing to going to Atmo, through two mufflers. Walbro 460 pump, with the 120psi relief valve over the 70psi one. Fuel tank lid actually sealed now too. Different stall converter to fit the situation, which results in more slip. Added a fair amount of restrictions to the system but got a better result because of other messing around. To avoid killing the dyno this pull was WOT at 3000 RPM as opposed to stalling the converter up. So it's actually more responsive than this shows, but the dyno didn't like it. Still have a Blitz return FMIC, so that really isn't a restriction people. 413rwkw at.. 24-25ish psi, with about 10% slip in the converter up top. Couldn't go higher due to Splitfires starting to really call it a day at that power level, which would be higher if it had a clutch, so for anyone reading you can probably do 460kw with ~25psi of boost before they start to miss, at least in my application. It's pretty torquey. GTX3582R on standard manifold, Picture of engine bay attached for dat boringness.

I quite like the D1R's on that falcon. Better than the BBS LM. Not even kidding. I expect Birds to like this post.

A haltech will solve the issue, a Nistune will solve the issue, even a PowerFC will solve the issue for less features. What you need is an ECU so you know wtf your car is actually doing

If these work well, wtb

For what its worth I have 18x9.5 +27 at the front of mine and it needed roll and a lip to fit with 265's and it looks great, now, barely fitting. I don't know what a R32 fits relative to a R34 (which is what I have) but I know that what I have is about as much as you can possibly ever fking get at the front of a stock guarded R34. As soon as I read +20 I was like NOPE, and then 265 tyre NOPE x2 and then R32 NOPE x3 If you can find the differential between the two cars (or have a look at what others fit) it's good. Measure measure measure and the website will be 100% right, as it's the method I used to get the maximum tyre up front that I could.

I want to say "is that legal?" but it appears that it is. Seems like a fine you'd be wanting to contest if it happened to you..

I hear you on that one

Not sure that constitutes 'better'...

I actually drive very much like a grandpa, so much so that it typically infuriates any passengers I have in the car.

I can confirm there's no way of making it better given my setup. I know this due to the AFRs that the car runs that I have easy access to, on an O2 sensor that I know is accurate.

What made you think anything is wrong?

I had the same problem with the seats on the 34 when I had stock seats. You do so much as rest a cold can of coke there for half a second and suddenly you have that ugly mark. I was able to remove it with just your common autobarn-esque type of interior seat cleaner, it actually responded pretty well. As for the scratches I have similar problem and the surround and gearbox is like $80 but I am interested in the heat gun method too if it can be better explained. One of those things that makes the car look awful during the day but looks fine at night

+1 actually following up with results .63 rears just are kind of shit in the real world, you nearly never get a better result or a more responsive result from going that way. See also: Cheap manifolds. Use the stocker (its really not that bad) or go full retard and twin scroll high mount things.

Got 31L/100km last tank. Fixing tank lid did not help economy

Mine with Famous for 35k was something like $100 per annum for laid up cover. Effectively nothing. They are probably on VWL and know that no one is ever going to steal it.

so many people have ummed and ahhed and committed to buy then never showed. So... bump.

I also saw that dyno graph, and well, the difference in minimal, and you can screw in more boost on the GTX to the point where it may nose over where the 8374 was. It comes down a bit to what you need, and realistically, budget. I can't low mount an 8374 on a stock manifold, (I have a 25) I can with a Garrett. Garretts are well known and extremely available and god damned durable for the most part relative to others, historically. They also always seem to perform the same no matter what car they go on. They're dependable. The thing about the BW though, is all things considered, no one regrets having chosen it once they've paid the money. Not one person has said "Well, it's a little better, but it's not really worth the extra coin" It can be argued that you can drive around a little more lag especially with AWD, or in my case more midrange = more smoke. That may be so, but the truth is no one is complaining once they do it.

If you're starting out with a build and that's the target, the BW 8374 is probably where you'd aim as you would have a healthy budget to do so. I also thought the GTX3582 was a size down from the 6266 and 6466, benefits of being a size down apply as the GTX is generally a good unit once you crank up the boost which is what the GTX compressor is good for over the GT. But if you don't crank the boost it's going to look "laggy" for its power, but it's just because you can (have to?) really lean on the GTX to make the power, Similar to the Precision - Less so for the 8374. But on a 2.6 that wants 500AWKW (.. why... what gearbox do you plan to use?) the answer is 8374.

Unfortunately it was the turbo heat blanket..... Somehow...