Kinkstaah

Yep, but your power came in way later. I have 4KG rears with helper springs, a Nismo 1.5way diff, running -1deg camber and AD08R's which were up to temp and running 30psi hot. Not saying it's the best setup in the world, but it's not like it's a slammed 15KG rear springed 2 way on stretched 195 nankangs that cost $4 each

Kind of what I was referring to before.. it depends on your definition of "traction" One man's "linear" is another man's "laggy" etc. I don't think it's realistic to expect to go WOT and have 0% traction loss when you make peak power at 4000rpm, I too turned down the boost as much as possible so I was running about ~300 and had to really feed it in. I would have loved to literally go 100% throttle as soon as exiting the last corner onto the straight and hold that all the way to turn 1 but that isn't happening. At least for me. If there is something to fix I'd love to know about it! Funnily enough, I seem to have to feed it in a lot less on the road which is also what I noticed when I went to Heathcote.

Yes? Everyone's idea of what 'traction' is varies though, and varies a lot on what they're trying to do really. I was referring to my own setup, not a 1000HP drag car on drag slicks with a solid rear axle on the drag strip.

Anyone else out there with a pair perhaps?

Watching some handheld video of my car at sandown (which is painful to watch) I noticed some oily looking smoke down the left side of the car.. where my catch can... wasn't... really catching anything. Funnily enough, the left rear was the culprit all day.... and this was after turning the boost down to about ~300rwkw, after almost faceplanting the LEFT barrier on the back straight getting onto the fun pedal with the wheels facing straight... hmmm.. Potential self-oil slicking my own tyres aside, WOT under 100 kmh isn't really possible in my car though. This is more of a "too much everything for 2WD" as opposed to anything else. I wasn't able to even go WOT comfortably until the start line at Sandown from the last corner, which I doubt most people have to deal with when they are making 300kw, so that lends a bit of suspicion on just what that oily looking smoke was doing down the left side of the car.

FWIW I found no real huge difference in NT05 and AD08R in terms of grip for the street. Housemate with RS3 and AD08R noticed no mega difference, maybe the AD08R lives a bit longer due to the higher cost so you aren't swapping as much. No back to back laptime data etc though, all by that seat feel.

It is, but past experience in my case has shown that something built is an even bigger gamble!

I had turned the boost down so I was running a fair bit less than 415, more like ~320ish but the delivery is still much the same and first time ever out on the track in the thing, I almost put it into a wall on the back straight coming on power too, so that was why I went home to get the laptop to turn that boost down before death. Obviously a stall converter not the easiest thing to feather but it's 'doable' with some restraint. It did feel rolly and sloppy as all hell, but maybe that's what everyone is dealing with and I should just learn to drive Sure was fun though.

I was thinking the same, how can you deliver a hit like that and drive off? I want to be in that car in an accident, lol

The worry is that the overheat initially can cause the head to warp as well. It would be worth mentioning that that had occurred to anyone you take the car to to ensure they check it because as mentioned, you don't want to replace head gasket then find out the problem is still there.

I found the AD08R to be absolute garbage in that last turn trying to get any power down (lowered the boost as much as possible and had big issues) That said, can confirm am noob driver. My suspension is possibly f**ked though, but 5kg front and 4kg springs at near stock ride height is pretty fkin boaty and non track optimal, like everything that I haven't near immediately changed after actually trying to use it. Birds, turns out that "Catch can" was actually pretty much venting to the engine bay as that's where it was disconnected (back to the intake, at the intake) and just pissing oil everywhere. Bought a replacement with actual baffling that will actually be setup actually correctly to actually catch oil (or at least put it it back into the intake and not into the engine bay), and actually get some actual tyres for the next time. (i.e, Nankang AR-1) Or just cheat and get a GTR for those slow corner exits Also that chaser was parked literally next to me. Was a nice guy!

Nope, I actually asked them to do a checkup and they did. They found faults in their eyes, and reported them to me in great detail which I am appreciative for and I shall get a 2nd opinion on. Because some of the things mentioned are so severe that they necessitate a 2nd opinion. They have found things I've never noticed/didn't know where there and things like "your two rear bearings are utterly f**ked" seems like it would show up when you shake the entire car by the wheel and notice no movement. I'm well aware that they may not have had time/resources to take on such a job and that's fair enough when you're working in an industry like that. It isn't somewhat shit of them, it is just somewhat shit in life to go for something simple and find out a lot else is on the plate that you didn't know about and now you do. I asked them for a check and I got a check. What I did not do was ask for a check then demand they fix it all in the time allotted for a check, dude. I'm not that kind of customer, or human being really.

Nope, I never had that problem, was juat bubbling for me but I never abused it on the track. Was just sprited driving in the hills for me that did it

I had that problem (lets not be scary) but there were no combustion gases in the coolant because E85. (nto enough to register) The head WAS lifting under boost and ended up being wrong head studs was the culprit, and a blasted bottom end and all sorts of nightmare scenarios. If I drove casually, would never bubble. If I gave it a hammering it would bubble in overflow. If the problem is linked to boost then it could very well be that. I'd wager you would find out pretty quick on Saturday in either scenario..

Just read the website. It makes sense and I should have read the website and utilize their business. Thank you for your informative post. I am appropriately admonished for not reading.

I'm yet to go to Sandown in the dry with HICAS still enabled with busted rear wheel bearings and HICAS tie rod ends apparently. So it should be any day now.

I was happy to go there, but I'm really looking for a place that will repair/replace suspension geometry as opposed to just fixing the issue by selling coilovers. Seems like the actual springs and struts are the least of my worries now. That said I always thought the tail being a bit slidey was due to this torque spike as per here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_09/57eb13251b249_DynoGTX3582RPower.thumb.jpg.3d244a1923896738611d6b0dd20f2308.jpg.pagespeed.ce.mloANxsVLK.jpg

Can anyone actually recommend a suspension place that won't go "Oh it's a sedan, I see your money and your questions are beneath me and please stop lowering the property value of my amazing shop"? as this happens quite a lot

To be fair if I do go the whole hog and replace shocks and springs I would consider Shockworks or MCA really as the only two options to choose from. I may get away with a new set of coils, hicas lock bars and toe arms to suit, and two rear wheel bearings. Still somewhat shit when my initial complaint to get checked out was "hm, the front seems to be pretty happy to hit bump stops and isn't low"..

I thought about this but I was under the impression the setup I had was great. Certainly felt fine, though wanted to see what the Shockworks R34 felt like. I suspected nothing was even wrong with the rear end actually. Just thought the front was hitting the stops a bit too eagerly and was a little low. But nope, apparently the rear is so bad it'd be 'suicidal' to drive it. I'd really rather not pay $5k to get it into an approved setup lol.

Took car to suspension place, for front suspension being abit crashy. Advise is to replace entire coilover system, entire rear subframe, both rear wheel bearings and lockout bars galore - None of which they are willing to take on for any amount of money. Good times.

Updated my result from awhile back with: 1x 3in to 3.5in exhaust, with gate plumbed back now as opposing to going to Atmo, through two mufflers. Walbro 460 pump, with the 120psi relief valve over the 70psi one. Fuel tank lid actually sealed now too. Different stall converter to fit the situation, which results in more slip. Added a fair amount of restrictions to the system but got a better result because of other messing around. To avoid killing the dyno this pull was WOT at 3000 RPM as opposed to stalling the converter up. So it's actually more responsive than this shows, but the dyno didn't like it. Still have a Blitz return FMIC, so that really isn't a restriction people. 413rwkw at.. 24-25ish psi, with about 10% slip in the converter up top. Couldn't go higher due to Splitfires starting to really call it a day at that power level, which would be higher if it had a clutch, so for anyone reading you can probably do 460kw with ~25psi of boost before they start to miss, at least in my application. It's pretty torquey. GTX3582R on standard manifold, Picture of engine bay attached for dat boringness.

I quite like the D1R's on that falcon. Better than the BBS LM. Not even kidding. I expect Birds to like this post.

A haltech will solve the issue, a Nistune will solve the issue, even a PowerFC will solve the issue for less features. What you need is an ECU so you know wtf your car is actually doing

If these work well, wtb