Kinkstaah

I also put one of these on my RB28. (rb25neo) As above, super good easy to deal with, no fuss, no dramas, and pretty quick work. Is it as good as the other options out there? I couldn't tell you, I don't know a great deal about sumps and their design, which is why I got one made... but I didn't need EXTREME++++++ I just needed a slightly more robust setup as I have a JUN pump and want to go round corners. As far as I'm concerned, attitude means a lot. The fact they have the attitude that they want to help people with their project and freely share information means I'll be a customer there far far more frequently than other people in the business of making things for RBs.

There are obviously some scenarios (like above) where combination of being super tall and super upright will cause an issue. One probably fixed with a custom seat. There's just a LOT of people out there who are... 6ft or thereabouts saying "THERES JUST NO WAY I CAN FIT IN, ITS LITERALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO DO!!!!!" which isn't really true, one should probably try and sit in one of them first. I don't consider myself tall, but I get a ton of people who are literally amazed I can fit in one, results in me scratching my head a lot!

They look way, way, way, way better in person than they do in photos too. And of course sound nuts with a decent exhaust. Just add a bit of boost and job done. Maybe coils blablabla. As for ftting, seriously never understood that. I am 187cm, and I fit perfectly fine in a NB which is supposedly the worst to fit in. Can only attribute it to people not knowing how to adjust a seat or I have abnormally long legs. My 198cm friend fits in the same MX5 as well. Just have to lean the sit back a bit and boom, feels more sporty to boot.

I know a guy who has a 2.8 kit that will fit a 26.... known to be a very durable setup, considerably more durable than a block... or two... or three...

Anyone know anyone who's got a RB25/Neo block laying around? As I am now onto my 4th and sleeves don't seem to readily exist because "What exactly would you sleeve it with that's stronger?" (yes I shall turn down the powers)

A lot of those parts are very similar to my car Tony, I hope it serves you better

Going by the photos, it looks like it fits nicer than my GTX3582 (the borg warner is smaller, in those photos), so it can be used with engine bay piping without any major concern I'd wager, as my GTX does/did.

Given what I have just done to mine....don't go over 400KW with it...... damage report incoming.

I currently have a GTX3582 low mounted on the standard manifold, so if the B1 frame is smaller it should be fine. Depends a bit on how thick the spacer is, but generally people space out a GT3582 in any case. High mounting the thing on a RB25 whilst wanting to use a return flow intercooler, and the standard intake plenum starts making it look like fabrication hell, whereas keeping it low mount.... doesn't.... at all. The question really comes around sealing that adapter and whether you're negating all the benefits of Borg Warner by doing so. But from most reports it appears the tech is mostly in the turbo and turbo wheels/turbo wheel material and not so much the manifold it's connected to.

I have visions of a standard engine and a T4 7163. My query would be wether as mentioned before it's worth going a full high mount twin scroll manifold ala 6boost or Fullrace (or sinco, or hypertune..) or whether the adaptor/welding up stock manifold is a 'better' idea for 'sort of' Twin Scroll and low mounting it. Is it worth fathoming a guess as to what the performance impact of that would be?

As above ---^ assuming that was with the ARP2000's and Some kind of MLS head gasket? Or did you go OEM?

When I called them recently..ish (with the problem specified) they no longer do this. Infact mike himself said he "had no interest in ever doing it again" and the one he did do in 2008 or something was a one-off.. though apparently the answer is a VL flex plate with a RB25 ring gear and that will do the job, or something similar to that. I don't know the lingo or what really comprises of it as my desire was "yes I'd like there to be 100% less cracks in it"

The problems I found was that there's also no off the shelf option for a flex plate behind a R34. You will snap yours and the stock design is fkin awful. Here's a photo of mine: I've gone full retard with my setup as described before, standalone ECU (for shift maps, you can make shifts nice down low... and harsh up top), have dual maps for when the car is in "D" and when it is in manual mode, etc. Upgraded TC which is the last thing you want, because it has to match everything else. Twin coolers, fans controlled in the cabin etc, gauge for temp. There's quite a lot of things that you need to do... all essentially to match the performance of the manual box which comes with most of these cars for $0. Sure, it does bring a turbo on much faster and you can stall it up, great for drag, but on ANY road tyre it = smoke extreme, making some beg the question of how useful it all really is given that application. That said, on the track it was pretty nice to just twitch a thumb and shift up/down coming out/into corners. I also had it remarked on me that a car behind me running the same power really noticed the benefit of the auto box, because of the WIIIIIDE powerband up top vs the time lost by shifting manually, revving back up to peak power even though both cars were running ~320kw at the time. My dyno sheet looks like this now: The guys who built mine (DTM autos in Geelong) mentioned that the NA box that I got built up from MV Autos, supposedly the 1a box, with solenoids was a completely different beast internally to the 1b box. They pretty much spat all over the 1a box which had been reduced to bits of gunk that was clogging its own filter... at about 250kw, after being built. The one above has been taking abuse for years and years (and a LOT of abuse) and for all the things I've broken, it hasn't been the box, as much as I am OFTEN told how horrible an automatic gearbox is by everyone around me.

I posted in your other thread re: Developments (same box!) since I posted in this thread in 2014.

I have one, sort of, at least mine has held up behind 415rwkw here ( It's the R34 GTT box and the long and the short of it is you should just buy my setup and go enjoy it because I want to go manual. It probably cost close to 10K to get built, all things considered (custom valve body, aftermarket shifting ECU, wiring, tuning, Custom Torque converter, custom flex plate etc). Was done by the guys at DTM Auto in Geelong, Victoria. If you absolutely want to start from scratch, the Patrol auto box is the strongest, though I wouldn't be surprised if the RE401B (the GTT box) has some elements of that in its design, it may not but it's certainly held up for me over time after melting a MV shift kit initially.

Because it may be relevant, you are using a standard manifold are you Tony?

It was, because back then I had a GTX3076R then with a .82 rear, I took the recommendation and went with a much larger rear to open the whole thing up. Also opened up the intake which would have been contributing to that problem (and picked up 45rwkw lol). But it's possible that the damage had been done, but seeing an engine roll over up top, or an exhaust housing go slightly red doesn't usually result in a blown head gasket. I have never actually run the GTX3076R for longer than about an hour before I changed to a free flowing rear. And since then the head was lifting under boost (wrong head studs supplied way back then, and re-used by current builder because "ARP studs are reusable". This was discovered when I bought a new gasket and studs because I didn't trust the internet when they said you can re-use metal head gaskets and ARP studs. And what do you know, the old ones were about 25mm bigger. Then the block cracked literally 2 days after that was assembled, full rebuild since then, with all the recommendations made, followed. I directly followed recommendations of people around me... because when you have problems you start looking at people who do not have problems to see where the differences lie... As to what failed this time, no one is sure yet, other than it's exhaust gases in the coolant.

I have, every time which is why they were so confused when it arrived back on their doorstep yesterday.. Eliminating things that are "custom" is now my primary goal here. I wonder if things like Scotty's turbo housing/gate/manifold setup causes heat/backpressure/something (maybe it does at 400rwkw at 4000rpm....) Perhaps the traction control system doesn't work as cleanly as advertised.. Perhaps the metal head gasket didn't seal despite the block and head being super straight and super polished by the machine shop that did it (that also built the engine) Perhaps the 'custom pistons' that were ordered and sized up for the kit way way back when by someone who was grossly incompetent is causing these fun and games too.. But power was turned down to about 320kw. Given I was pretty happy with that, a standard Neo will be finding its way to that engine bay because I'm really not a fan of "perhaps" (even if something becomes immediately clear as the problem, like last time).

I think more like stock motor and never ever open the motor in any case at all. And some responsive Borg Warner thing on the side of it. Or who knows, maybe just put an OEM gasket back on what's currently there, unless the block is cracked or there's a portal to the underworld when they remove the head which is entirely likely.

My engine let go again. Congealed exhaust gas in coolant looks like poo. It's noticeably different from coolant and oil mixing, which I have also seen within the last 10,000kms.

The oil in there currently is Total 90w-140 apparently. If I ever change it and it makes a notable difference I'll update the thread. I hadn't even heard the brand before it made its way into the diff, but I agree that some oils seem to get "Brand power" from seemingly nowhere.

I did wonder if it was maybe over-filled, in the 34 (sedan at least?) the breather is directly connected to the inside of the chassis rail, so it's clearly 'supposed' to vent there. I'm happy to just keep cleaning it but thought it best to confirm. After sandown there was maybe a drip or two but nothing compared to what there initially was. So I am assuming it may have been initially over-filled an has now become... less over filled.. Is it worth changing the oil to something 'known' like the OS Giken or Nismo oil? If this is fairly typical then all good, it didn't affect anything under there functionally so I'm not so bothered if it's not going to cause something to go bang

Diff Breathing a ...lot of oil Hi Folks. Recently got a 1.5 Nismo diff (non pro). Seems to be breathing quite a lot of oil. Couldn't really find any information on whether this is normal or not. Haven't had it a long time so turning to the SAU brains trust to see if anyone's seen something similar here. Haven't beaten SUPER hard on the diff. Little bit of hill driving, little bit of track day, (but the picture was before the track day). Car is used as a daily. I believe the oil is "Total" and it's an 80-90W oil that was put in when the diff was put in. Is this getting too hot and causing it to essentially breathe everywhere? Worth changing to an 80-250w or 80-140 LSD oil like the Nismo one? Note: Diff IS in an auto, so you get a lot of torque down low with not a lot of speed thanks to stall converter. Unsure if that changes things, prematurely heats things, or anything. Any alternate solutions? The oil was bad enough for a suspension place to think it was a leaking shock when it was actually diff oil over everything.

With reviews and prices like that, time to hunt for some track day rims..

First VIP car I've seen that looks like actual VIP car.