Kinkstaah

I had spitballed about this (as I have built the auto to take the power, which... was more expensive than a gearset) as I wanted to go manual and was thinking about a conversion to a 370Z gearbox (CD009). Supposedly a fair bit stronger and 'doable' Finding information on it is difficult though. I know a company named Eleven-Ten engineering in SA have completed it though. Unless you want to go auto

Don't do any of this. If you have a RB26, sell the RB26 and go buy a RB25DET Neo And if you have a RB25DET Neo, sell that, and the GT, and buy the GTT. Source: Had GT with Turbo engine, now have GTT. No amount of modifications done to the GT is harder to move to the GTT than transplanting the engine.

I can, and do. See also: Comfortable heterosexual man enjoying driving MX5 with no power. Cars as status symbols? Embarrassing no matter how you explain it away.

Driving a less enjoyable toy car because worried about what anonymous people may think instead of being comfortable and saying "I enjoy driving enjoyable cars" k

Actually the MX5 engines (at least the 1.8) is known to hold a good 200rwkw, there's plenty of people out there with a turbo, some guy has gone full John Richardson at 191 rwkw and has done something like 60 track days on it. Seems about 180rwkw in a MX5 is similar to the "300 is safe" kw in a RB25. And then you go to a corner or brake and instantly lose 400KG of weight. But no, the S13 with a modest power setup and sorted handling is a very good option as well. You only really get problems in any car if you decide HOLY SHIT POWAAAAAAR or decide you want slicks and then you get oil control fun. I mean shit the S13 gets blame for being a bad chassis, but someone won WTAC with one. Not a very stock one albeit, but it can't be that bad for fun and games!

I just never take off the end that was stretchy, but I have two hose clamps on the 'looser' end. The crossover pipe does come off all the time, but not a big issue as you only ever really need to remove one of the ends of the pipe. I kept my stock one just in case, as I was replacing all of the joiners in one hit, due to them, well, starting to die and figured the other currently working ones would not last forever.

Have to admit did seem a little odd when you're talking about buying a new M5 yet a sensor or paying for a dump pipe is a hassle. In any case if you want stress free motoring and you have access to a M anything, well, just get in, turn the key and have fun.

After a few days you get used to the smell in Rotorua though (really) Fkin weird when going there first time though.

I've had that setup on a RB28. Yes it can make 400 at that boost. Just leave it as it is, man. It won't really make the car any faster in 97.7% of scenarios. Why tempt fate? I'd go as far to say as leave it on 19psi with a stock gasket. Twin scroll housings and manifold should make it a pretty potent setup. Source: Tempted fate.

I still have my stock one.... Kudos do have the correct joiner as that is who I called about it... the 2.5 will work, but yeah it was offensively difficult at the time. I never tried with a reducer (didnt get that far?) as none of them were of a size that I needed, I couldn't find a 70 to 60, as everything was imperial and was a few mm off either end in presumably every way. Mind you I didn't try a joiner, we just had a 2.75 and a 2.5 handy, and one would work on one side, and one wouldn't work on the other side etc. We just found the downside of joiners that resist a lot of initial pressure really really don't like stretching!

Its almost like cars and car communities are actually about people, and connecting, and all of that, and have very little to do with the piece of machinery

THE VERY FIRST SECOND I COME BACK FOR THE YEAR I MUST PRINT HOLY SHIT DONT YOU REALISE HOW MUCH I NEED TO PRINT I NEED TO BE PRINTING THINGS ALL THE TIME TO LIVE

Back to work AAGGGHHHH f**kin people like to report IT problems the second they come back holy shit.

Hahahahahahhahaha. I only laugh because holy shit that one was a nightmare to fit on. Making one stretch over it was pretty damn hard if you use a decent joiner. I distinctly recall Scottynm35 and myself trying for quite some time with Lubricant and a heat gun and swearing to never, ever, ever, ever remove it for any reason. It'll need to be the 2.5 though, because the 2.75 won't seal on the smaller of the two in any way that will leave you thinking "this is an optimal solution" I said to myself that buying another OEM joiner is the way to go. Think from memory they were/are about ~$50. Figured if it lasted 20 years it can last 20 more.

I used to have a pretty blowy motor, then I read this thread and hory shet the difference was extreme. What I had previously (even with the stock 1.2mm restrictors in the 34) was in the photo. Would get this kind of stuff after any real kind of RPM's happening. Blocked one of the feeds, and had the drains enlarged as the head was off at the time. Prolonged revving later (as in.. probably hours of it) and maybe 20ml in the catch can. Enough that it wasn't so much oil as Oil + water vapour, greeny sludge at best. (I got a fitting for my sump but looking at whats IN the catch can... wouldn't want that going back down there) In any case, just sharing my experiences with this thread and the help it provided!

Yeah marvelling and contemplating have entirely different meanings.... In any case, yeah, OP6 is the better housing to use if you ever really want to lean on the thing. Not often that people have both to choose from, and typically not really worth "upgrading" to if you already have a hiflow with the 21U housing. That said, the Turbo is pretty much the most important part of the car for performance, so unless for some reason you must have stock turbine housings, or are aiming for 220kw don't use one.

I stupidly suggested to my gf that a MX5 would be a perfect car for her to get a head start in, learn on, use, etc. Now I want one, with a small turbo albeit. LS Swapped FD would be great, but if you want a ~1250-1350kg car with an easy to use 250-270kw then you start looking into options like, oh I dunno, a RX7.. or a jap turbo import made by Nissan... I have this discussion with my housemate who got an E36 328i with plans to put a LS1 in.

Blueprinted RB28 Neo I don't expect to sell this, especially not quickly, but here we go, it's up for sale, and I await burny flames, because "Greg Car™" What I have is a fully blueprinted, literally built yesterday RB28/29 RB25DET Neo with juicy VCT, unlike you dirty RB26 people. It's also in a car, running, and available for any test you would like to do. In fact, I'd encourage it. The blueprints are obviously included with the same and to have a look at beforehand and all that. The pertinent info: Compression is 9.01:1 It has a Brian Crower stroker kit from the USA in it (http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0238) 86.5mm pistons that were custom made by JE and Nitto to fit the Neo head (the kit was for RB25DET and RB26) I say JE and Nitto as they are actually badged with both brand names. JUN Oil pump Lewis Engines baffled/gated and extended sump. R34 has 1.27mm restrictor in it standard, one feed has been blocked off. The oil returns in the head and the block have been enlarged. ARP2000 Head Studs ARP Main Studs ACL Race Bearings Tomei Metal HG, 1.2mm. Tomei Type B 260deg Cams Tomei Exhaust Cam Gear which does nothing but is installed.. Supertech Valve Springs The head was ported and polished and unlike most ports and polish actually helped performance a pretty big amount. And by "helped performance" I mean along the lines of the same power at about 10psi less boost. Being built yesterday, it has a full OEM Nissan Gasket set for everything minus the HG, and new belts. If it's so amazing, why do I want to sell it? I only aim to make 300kw going forward. A stock engine would be better for me. I'd love 12k for it, and I'm sure you'll offer lower, the price may sound insane but keep in mind.. a) The BC kit alone costs $6000USD before shipping. b) It's a legally registerable engine for those who are worried about RB30's engine numbers in engine bays. c) It's already built, so no waiting for you d) It's already running, come test it, drive the car, be sure about it without those post build worries and niggles that do appear at times. So if this is something you wanted to build, well there's no way it's going to happen cheaper, faster and simpler than just taking this one out. I could include photos of the build if really needed, but it looks like an assembled engine, unlike most, I went out of my way to not make it look interesting. No flashy rocker cover paint here. Come drive the thing, test the thing, etc instead! If interested, send a PM! Negotiations, swaps, etc all welcome.

Especially in a country like Australia, where we're pretty damn vehemently opposed to anyone we consider to be a tall poppy. Most people care literally less than nothing about the people in that industry.

My car never actually drove badly in any state of the tune, which is why I post about it, because it can take you by surprise and break in unexpected ways with no warning. you may not have turned it up to 375kw if you could have, but it is becoming easier and easier for people out there to buy 'new' stuff where the difference between 252 being knock limited and 375kw driving perfectly fine on the same hardware is the difference between using united or not. My plan is actually to do pretty much what you've said though. I want a T4 EFR7163 or 7670 for better manifold and heat flow and all of those good things to aim for more reliableness and eliminate more problem factors. Pretty much the goal is have a setup that some forum junkie would say MATE GOOD FOR 600KW then go and make 300kw on it. Its also worth noting that my 98 tune which made 320kw through the auto (way less boost, way less timing) had literal 0 problems with WOT grip in any gear, but the auto may have had something to do with it, but that said the auto resulted in more torque earlier so who knows. It may not be directly comparable.

You *can* My point was what if you said "We added timing and I made 375rwkw". The fuel will allow this but most likely something else would have stopped you, run out of injectors, fuel pump, AFM maxes out, fear of blowing gearbox, clutch slip, etc. Its far easier nowadays to have none of the above stop you, and you can go right ahead and make 252kw on 98 due to pinging, and make 375RWKW on E85 because of the fuel, but 'something else' will be the thing that stops you and it won't be pretty.

This is actually the plan and what I have recommended to many people in the many years I've had problems actually. I would wager the difference in the tune you (and Hamish) had on 98 and E85 wasn't too major (i.e it probably was not running 12 degrees more timing and 10psi more boost) because the E85 can take it but something else, unknown to you yet can't. Like say, the block in my case, or cylinder pressure, or heat, or all of the above. I feel if you picked up 80rwkw and 120kw in your top end from just running E85 then more people would run into problems, especially when it looks perfect on a dyno, etc. It may be a bigger issue for people in the future as there's turbos out there in the wild that can handle high pressure (GTX) and big injectors and fuel pumps are easily available. They weren't in the past, there was always some restriction (Z32, PFC, 555's, 040, Highflow) looks different to (MAP, Haltech, 2000's, Walbro 416, GTX) But like you said, and even I've said that about 320kw is where you want to stay in a RWD Skyline, mainly because after that: 1) Engine rebuild become more likely 2) Grip starts becoming an issue for any kind of road tyre 3) Gearboxes start exploding 4) Clutches and such start becoming scarce, hard to drive, find, etc I don't think I've really been overly unlucky, I've just done things based on info here, and what should "be fine"... and freely share the info so hopefully others can not have sadness with their own car adventures

I'd argue that there's little point for E85 on a RB other than making a 98 tune safer through less pinging. I guess I've learned for everyone that no matter what you can throw nearly anything at the cylinder and it will take it like a champ, until the next weakest part is the block crying for mercy over cylinder pressure+heat+mixture of both, or something like that. Note: Turbo has gate on housing, not on the manifold. But yeah, safe to say it's planning on being dialled back a significant amount, and any unique "Greg things" are pretty much going in the bin in favour of tried and true solutions. Always was looking out for the common problem just would be nice if it wasn't the block cracking. Guess that's what happens if everything else has been somewhat sorted. +1 for the whole "Get an EGT gauge" crowd I suppose.

Also when researching timing and E85, I found a post where someone stated "This thread explains why I killed my engine" The post was from me, in 2015. Clearly I did not remember this. I want to get off E85's wild ride.

I'd like to stop cracking RB blocks. Seems there is a limit after all. What 'works' is not the same as what works it looks like in the end. I want to get off E85's wild ride