Kinkstaah

Centrifugal chargers also have the tendency for an engine to not feel 'boosted' at all, a positive displacement charger you mostly feel down low, turbos give a big turbo kick we're all familar with Centrifugal chargers just feel like a larger N/A engine, their power on a dyno is almost a completely straight 45 degree line. So you do get instant boost, but max boost is always at max engine RPM.

But... but Racepace did literally nothing to my car.. perhaps that isn't the best example

Serious responses only thanks

Anyone know a decent auto elec that is mobile in Vic? Not necessarily an "after hours cash only" style job, need a professional that can un-f**k a clusterf**k.

I wouldn't think the standard manifold is that much of a restriction, it was flowing my GTX3582 pretty damn well (over 420kw on an auto). I changed it 'just because'/overkill. I think if you're aiming at something sensible with a 7163 or a 7670 and don't intend to run either to within a mm of their life it will provide a pretty decent result. If someone was starting over in the skyline world I'd probably recommend a 7163 and aim at making 280kw or something like that and enjoy the thing. Or just immediately put a LS into the car and be done with it

There is a certainly an element of gleefully waiting for destruction and drama for that setup. He took it to the drags and broke both drive shafts and a rocker (ran 11.08 and 1.8 60ft at 136mph) Didn't seem to mind though I personally have an over-spun compressor wheel of a GTX3076R on my desk here at work too. In any case, I wouldn't expect to wind up a 7670 that far and have it last nearly as long. I would have been happy with the response of the thing under the foot if it made 280kw. All I was saying is that it highlights how much the other parts of the setup play a big part in making something work, and to me, it was a good example of it! My own turbo hasn't hit the dyno yet. I have done a fair amount of road tuning and timing is unchanged from the previous turbo, which is very conservative and I am running E85 now. Effectively running E85 on 98 timing numbers.. I do not intend to run mine hard and aim for something like ~300kw (through auto, manual time soon) at about 16psi. I chose the 7670 because I wanted less power than the GTX3582, and running a 500kw turbo at 270 is pretty inefficient. /life story My butt dyno seems to think it's about there (300kw) currently. I will find out on the 16th to actually put it on the dyno at Chequered. Yes I am aware everything involved (RB28, T4 TS EFR with EWG, E85) is massive overkill to make 300kw.

Meant kw, it is running 45psi

Sorry I should probably re-iterate. I have driven a S15 with a GTX3076R in Twin Scroll making 450RWKW on a 2L. On a dyno, it shows no power till like 5k. The owner said "its actually really responsive!!!" so I drove it thinking it would be a complete and utter pig, but it was actually really very tractable and pretty awesome. I immediately thought my car would be way too 'responsive' given I had a similar size turbo on a much larger engine going on. I previously had a GTX3582 on my setup. I went from the stock converter to the current converter when I was using that turbo so I was familar with the benefits of the converter and how it applied to drivability and performance. It made a big difference. It made the car feel MUCH more responsive. I just switched from a GTX3582 (gt35 wheel) to the EFR7670. I have also had a GTX3076r on my car in the past. That is what I had before I had a GTX3582. All of those were single scroll on the stock manifold. (gate off housing) I remember how much the TC made a difference. I remember driving the GTX3076R without the TC. I am remembering driving the GTX3076R on a much smaller engine I swapped because like you said, I 'needed' to go from a GTX3582 to "something smaller". It so turned out that a GTX3076R with a larger housing was about the same price as an EFR7670. Considering the cost was the same at that point I switched to the EFR to see how it'd all go. I don't regret the change, I'm not disappointed, it's pretty much what I had expected because my expectations weren't hoping for the second coming of Jesus himself and I'm aware of other limitations of my setup :p. I feel for 99.9% of us, "good enough" is literally any product from Garrett, Precision, or Borg Warner.

I am actually quite interested in Lith's result. I have my 7670 T4 TS on my RB28 (RB25det neo) and the biggest thing I have noticed is how the thing sounds. To be honest, I'm suprised there isn't more discussion on the sound, the things are so amazingly 'present' with various hooshes and wishes it feels like a 12 year old has got an iPhone app and is going crazy with turbo sounds from the passenger seat. My setup is different than most though being on a high stall built auto (3100ish). but truth be told it just reminds me of when I had a GTX3076R on the same setup back in the day. It breathes better up top because well, it is a T4 Twinscroll manifold and external gate as opposed to a stock manifold with a smaller housing. It's a little more responsive because I have a $2000+ stall converter instead of the stock one, etc. I was more impressed with the GTX3076R making 454rwkw on a 2L SR20 (Twinscroll) and its drivability than I am with the 7670 on a RB28. So I am curious to see how Lith's setup turns out, I expect some of the gains by "going EFR" are due to updating an entire setup, getting good manifolds, new dumps, having no leaks, having enough flow, and thinking the whole thing out and spending big. That, and coming from a setup in the past which wasn't as 'developed'. I'm sure the EFR is a better turbo than the equivalents, but I reckon some of the hype is due to updating the supporting mods to go with the turbo. It could also be my auto gearbox, the actual physical time it takes to start locking up could be having an effect, and equalizing both turbos. The EFR sound is a definite plus if you like turbo sounds though

I always thought the lights were good enough right up until you posted that picture. Thanks for that.

I deliberately buy silver wheels so I can rash them and it's not very visible.

2000 or so?

It's not really the turbo, I recently changed to an EFR (on a 2.8) and the difference is not as crazy as people are saying. However, there is notable little differences that come from switching to a better manifold, better housings, simpler setup, etc. The "EFR is god" is only a part of this really. You will get similar results from going TS GTX3582 for example if happy to wind it up. Is it better than twins? Yeah. Twins honestly are only really good if the circumstance is "They are already on the car" If you are pushing for power, ever, or even wanting the "Best" setup for the power your twins are currently making, remove the twins and go single. It's a question of setup and technology. Don't polish the turd. Don't refine a setup for old turbos. Don't get 'the best cams' for -5's. Replace the setup. Use stock cams and a more modern turbo/manifold setup. This is the smart way forward. You could of course go for a nice new twin manifold for twin new tech turbos but there's nearly no point at all doing that unless you'd rather just burn money for no reason.

Note: on RB28 Note: also auto Note: those things also for sale if keen lol Note: link doesn't seem view able on phone app. Works on PC!

100%. Wasn't actually very close to the strut at all. Bigger issue was touching manifold with the housing rotated in a certain way. Fixed easily with a spacer though I just used more than 1 gasket as I had that on hand at the time. I even have 3 gaskets if you don't want to buy a spacer lol. Seemed dodgy as, but it worked for me, and never leaked. I assume it'll fit other cars, mainly cause the R34 has less room than the other 2 there with ABS and heater hoses etc. Which this also clears fine.

I had it on a R34, with a gtt manifold [emoji14]

The easiest way is to do a run without the filter. This is how I tested it when I was on the dyno. Prior to that, I changed injectors, fuel pump, and FPR, so you can do all of that too and then change the filter if you would prefer to burn money It took a FPR gauge on the dyno to actually determine why it was leaning out, which lead to me dropping the filter. It seems 34 specific though, I do wonder if it is the same part for the Ryco filter or whether 34's have another restriction in the system somewhere that 33's and 32's don't. Is it the same? I have honestly never looked. The other option is just make 360kw on -9's which is certainly enough for those turbos.

I don't think it's the case of the filter being clogged so much, as much as what GTSBoy said, the actual filter itself is restrictive and it can't flow that much fuel in it. I was also using a ryco filter. I now use an Earls filter, but as I've backed down my power goal I now run two filters because the Earls filter I have is 30 micron and apparently 20 is what you want (the ryco one is 20 I read somewhere). This is likely why the best option is to run them in parallel when chasing that much power. Earls have a 10 micron filter for their big filter, but I found any time I swapped between E85 and 98, in either direction, the filter would near-instantly get clogged with a 10.

I have a 34 with this pump. You are running into issues on E85 like every other 34 owner I presume. Now, everyone I've seen this issue with has a GTT, but I wouldnt be super suprised if its the same thing at play here. The fuel filter is your restriction. It always seems to happen at about 350-375kw on E85. Also, there's two types of the Walbro 460. One has a 70psi internal relief valve, the newer one has 120psi internal relief valve. This means that at certain amounts of boost the earlier one is going to pump back into the tank as opposed to into the rail. When you consider 45psi is base pressure, 70psi gives you 25psi of boost before you start to run into issues. Change the filter and the pump (if need be, do filter first) and problem will be magically solved. You can try running without the filter on the dyno to confirm.

Garrett GTX3582 + Turbosmart 45mm Gate + Dump pipe + Bolt on + Buy please GTX3582, pretty low kms (less than 10K), working fine, boosting well, no shaft play. Has a Turbosmart 45MM Hypergate welded into the housing (T3 0.82) by Scotty Fisher (www.scottyscustoms.com.au) which holds boost like nothing else. Have been able to really just choose any amount of boost and it'll just hold it, I've ran between 4PSI to and including 28psi on the same spring. Have extra springs for the Wastegate if you want to be super hardcore. Also included is the dump pipe, but you'll need a flange to fit it to your exhaust (at the cat end) as it was custom made. I do *not* have the screamer as I have re-used it for my current setup. Dump is a really nice 45deg angle pipe, fits a skyline no issues whatsoever. Suspect it'd fit most things. Seems to flow really well, made of stainless. This will bolt directly to a RB25/20/30 stock manifold and it will fit. I would recommend a spacer to be 200% sure, as I just used 3 gaskets which is quite a bit ghetto but never leaked. Comes with the second hand lines I was using if you want them. $2000. Would prefer local pickup/delivery but I can ship it at buyer's expense etc. Would prefer not to seperate as it's a good little package as is for a RB30 or RB28 or RB25 if you really are all about that lag and unsafe levels of power for a stock engine. Yes it looks a little used, because it was used and actually works entirely fine as opposed to sitting around being hard parked.

I 100% would buy them if they can be shipped. Just fyi

"Centre hole size" ? Also the idea is to buy a replacement before I take the current near-dead one off the car

If I could have my time again and wanted a 7670 I would get the internal gate one. Mainly for piping reasons. I stupidly wanted EWG because the housing was bigger and wanted everything to be less hot, and I thought I could re-use my 45mm as a single. The IWG is probably just fine for 99% of people, I don't know if there's enough results to compare same turbo, same engine, IWG vs Single Gate vs Twin gate yet Maybe if more people buy the turbos we shall see

I should add, the AC hard line fouls on the manifold. At least, it fouls on the T4 Twinscroll manifold if you fit it to a R34 GTT. Some posts have said you can "Bend it out of the way" but mine is hitting pretty solidly right on what is ordinarily a 90 degree bend up and out of the compressor. I don't have the car right now so I can't take photos of the setup. I expect a new hard line would need to be made up from scratch and put well, well, well away from the manifold itself. 50mm was in reference to single gate manifold, but again looking at where lines have to go and all of that I'm not entirely sure I'd want twin gates there either, it's all pretty tight and I'm a fair bit poorer from heatshielding heatshielding heatshielding.

Sorry, I should say this is from a perspective of a 34 owner, Dunno if others are different!