Kinkstaah

Hi Folks I'd really like a speedo, but the donor gearbox I put in was clearly cable driven in the past. I would love a second hand sensor if anyone has a gearbox kicking around gathering dust for some reason. These seem hard to find as understandably people rarely seperate them. But hey if thats you, please PM!

Nope, at least none that I can see. They only look slighly faded relative to the new ones! (And a bit dirty)..

Could bad/failing coilpacks cause the pictured problem with the plugs? Both sets of plugs did run with those coils after all.... I don't know how a coil could fail in a way that would cause cracking the 'upper' porcelain. Is that feasible?

I recently got this and was pretty amazed, it drives signifigantly better than PCars 1 and is far closer to iRacing or Assetto Corsa. I can only speak of driving with a wheel, I'm absolutely no pro, but in any car I always felt like it was me driving like a spaz if I had an off, not the game 'gaming' it.

Loom is actually a new OEM one Plugs however? The thing is, both sets look like this! I have since put in a new set of bcpr7es with the new coilpacks, and removed the coilpacks cover. Drove the car just now and all good. As to what the tips look like on all these plugs.... They look normal, it is only the insulator pictured that has any damage.

Bought a brand new set of splitfires, and went manual. Problem still occurs, on both sets of plugs! I am at a bit of a loss as to how this can occur, I'm using Johnny's timing map (15-18 deg of timing on e85) and running 12 psi of boost I can't see why else this could be occurring. What other parts are even involved? Other than orienting spark plugs so the ground strap faces the intake when done up I am out of ideas!

Immediately go buy Jussi's 34 sedan instead of building one.

Bump for easy to drive clutches and stock machined flywheels an enterprising person could resell if they so wished.

GF has the SE. Did the alpine road this weekend, made a 3 day-er of it. Seriously fun. Has AD08R's and coilovers on it now, it's just such an active car when you drive it hard. One day it'll have a tune and make ~180rkw and yeah I'll probably deliberately write my 34 off over a cliff and buy three of them.

The fiata 124 sounds great (!!) and yeah has a turbo. Same motor that the old Fiat 500 abarth has (which also sounds amazeballs and not too bad to get to 220kw) Which is more than enough in a 950kg car made for fun. Souce: Skyline owner who wishes he had his gf's MX5 all the time.

If the above is your car, then my auto is taking a BW EFR quite nicely. It also looks like those are UK (?) plates, which would make shipping astronomical, I'd wager! If there's no local knowledge on the gearbox (and there really isn't here either tbh, I got really lucky) it would almost be worth calling around your local performance/drag racing shop and seeing what they can do or whether they are receptive to it. There's TCU's around for sale that drive auto gearboxes that can (and do!) wire into the factory wheel paddles. EG: https://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/Performance_Aftermarket/Products/Transmission_Products/TCM-2000_Transmission_Controller/ (or the new 2800, I have the 2000, well I'm trying to sell the 2000). That option however is expensive, because it's what I did and I lucked out on someone who knew the gearboxes. Literally exhausted options and asked someone at work whos partner "is a mechanic and may know someone" just turned out to be an expert in that specific type of thing. It cost me about $10,000AUD once all was said and done, when you factor in the cost of torque converters, coolers, lines, hoses, sensors, labor of gearbox coming in out in out in out, flex plates (stock one does NOT handle the power), the TCU, the TCU tuning, and all the magic custom work that went into the actual gearbox, and I'm trying to sell it for $3500 so it goes to show that the money doesn't come back to you if you can find someone who will do the overhaul. I would almost say this is a scenario where selling car and buying something like an Evo X or a Golf R or something that comes with a DCT nowadays is going to be a better car for your needs.

^--- if you want to go completely mad, start shopping for a bottom end now so when you need to put it in in a year... you won't be waiting for a year for the engine build to arrive. Alternatively, buy a stock gtt motor now to have it ready for later, and be happy with 300kw and a fun car and save your wallet. (noone does this)

My work (yay govt) has two types of leave, has a certain amount of sick leave per year with no cert, and a second allotment of leave with a cert. The leave with a cert is very generous and generally used for people with sick kids/carers leave etc. Life quality is a thing and really should be everyone's primary aim, however the hell it suits people to achieve it.

But he never said that though, he is saying that he was under the impression he could rev it to 11,000 RPM, and being told afterwards that the limit is 8500. If he knew it was 8500, he would not have selected it. Yes boost and flow aren't the same thing but they can be closely correlated on the same motor. Usmair is saying "more boost" but he really means more power and he's basically saying the 8374 may not provide enough grunt for what he needs. Maybe he wants 750awkw and that is 52psi given the rest of his current setup and a 8374 is not going to get there. I found it interesting that the numbers you can see from Garrett and BW are the same/really similar. If Garret think the Garrett wheel is stronger, why is the "limit" not higher than the BW item? For what its worth, I have overspun a garrett compressor wheel, as it's on my desk at work! As to the RPM of that at the time, I have no idea. I just knew the gate wouldn't open.... ever.... at 28.9psi.

The thing is, the OP has done exactly what anyone with a modified Skyline has done? It's only making 181kw because it's on low boost. If there was a DET in there the thing would be pushing 300KW at 22psi like everyone has been doing since 2005, and spending about the same amount of money that everyone has done since 2005. The only kicker is the gearbox (maybe thats why its 181kw and not 300) because it'll have the NA gearbox. NA Brakes, but R34 has 5 stud hubs etc. The takeaway from this is how much more it costs to mod your own car vs buying someone else's modded car. If OP hadve sold his original car he would have got "some" money back. Lets say 5K for the entire car. He could then take that 5K, and the 13K he spent now and buy this: And had a MUCH better result sitting in his driveway.

It isnt even that bad, all of that is trasnferrable to a DET motor being swapped in place later on if the DE+T does give up. This just highlights how expensive modding a car turns out to be over time, most people don't do 'everything' all in one hit like that, doing it piece by piece is going to result in much the same cost, minus the Labor charge depending on how much you can DIY.

Good way to find out whether the overspin problem is instant death or not. Garrett rate their wheels to near-similar maximum RPM too and people don't really seem to care much about spinning them way past it Please post results

I would, but admittedly I wouldn't want to be expecting a rebuild on a C63 just yet. Maybe if it was 15-20+ years old and had done 250,000+kms.

The singles people are referring to (from NPC, or even the nismo single) are about 300kw. The Nismo twinplate is more expensive, but pretty much everyone says it's the best clutch ever for the 300-400kw region. Being at 345kw you can see how you're in a bit of no-mans land in regards to easy single plate vs twinplate

Depends a lot on how well the 34 build was done... If done well, its the better, faster, more fun car. I.e don't buy it unless you absolutely can vouch for it. OEM is often the best builder

That one (the barb, near the blue joiner) is stock on a R34 neo, it does indeed go to the power steering. It's used for speed sensitive power steering (somehow) and disconnecting it does result in some VERY heavy steering.. as well as a boost leak). It runs from the PS to the charge pipe. It doesn't run to the plenum, so it'll go back to somewhere on your intercooler piping. If this doesn't exist, well you can block the hose if you like heavy steering all the time, or get a fitting put on your charge pipes.

Ah yes, but I have a top mount neo and do not need this manifold That said, you're in it, and it's on the car, so may as well finish it now.

The most important thing is don't worry too much about the state of your car or being slow. Anyone who has done a track day has been in your shoes before and remembers it well. It's really the most non-judgmental car experience I've seen before. I spent many years modding and upgrading and then found when I went there the car was WAY over kill for a beginner. (still very much a beginner!!) However the nerves only last .,.. maybe the first couple of sessions, and any apprehension you had will be obliterated near instantly. +1 for getting out there!

Scottys Customs or Havoc Fabrication are your two go-to places that will say "Ah yep I know exactly what you need" and NOT: ^--- that

The thing is, all the injectors, afm, wiring, tune, etc will be setup for the neo head. (or at least they should be). The bottom end is "dumb" in that aspect. Which is why I was saying keep the neo as it'd be simpler. I am not entirely sure what exactly is required, or what exactly was done, considering your actual swap was uh, done badly by someone in the past. May not be possible to know what is right and what is wrong! Assuming the only issue is the comp ratio, and eveyrthing "Neo" was setup and running fine I would put a Neo in. GTSBoy has a Neo in his R32, he knows things.