Kinkstaah

Hi Folks. Wondering if anyone has heard anything like this before. Head is a RB25DETNeo and this tapping happens just for a minute or two after starting Hot OR Cold. There are no unusual sounds otherwise. It sounds to me that it's similar to a SR20DET VCT rattle, however while this sounds like it is in the same area, it happens if the VCT solenoid is unplugged. I don't know if this will actually affect things, if the issue is internally mechanical and not solenoid. There's not a lot of info on VCT rattle on RB25DET's. I have blocked off one oil feed to the head to combat blowby in the past. Note: This happens at about ~1500-2000 rpm. It will rattle once, or twice, and the car can rev past it fine. I.e, if you revved to 4k you may hear 1-2 taps while it revs through, but it always appears at that range. Note: If you rev the car slowly through the rev range after starting, this does not happen. You don't need a ton of throttle, but if you stab it or stand on it it'll happen, it will not happen if you say hold throttle at 10% and slowly rev through the range. The sound appears to be coming from the intake cam, from what seems to be just under the throttle body. Again, hot or cold, doesn't matter. Will hear it for about a minute of driving and it'll fade away pretty quick. Leaving the car idling does help if you leave it idle for ~2 minutes etc. No weird sounds under load at all. Car otherwise drives fine. From what I can tell, if you leave the car sitting for maybe 5? minutes, the sound will return on re-start. A little less than it would if the car is left overnight, but not much. Could be related (maybe not) but VCT has only just actually been switched on/wired in recently. Could be piston slap. Could be wrong oil, (5-40, was 10-60 in the past) could be something else entirely. Sound does not appear to be getting any worse since I noticed it (couple of weeks). May have always been there, because the car was previously auto and any throttle will go well over 3k RPM where there's no sound and no load. Any hints as to what this could actually be given the above info? Looking to know where to begin, or whether to begin at all if this is actually a common thing people don't talk about.

It's almost like it's an addictive drug

Nothing, and I mean no turbo in the world can spool up quite like an automatic gearbox will do it with a decent stall converter. Going manual has certainly taken the buzz out of my EFR as everything seems laggy comparatively. Until you want to take a corner and all is forgiven.

Nah no alignment. Wasn't my car either lol, dhf tyres in hallam if down that way. Wasn't 3+1 however, one day I'll go to Costco and actually ask them to price match on re71r or PS4 or pilot sport cups, while I get fat on hotdogs there.

Where were they from? Did think about going Bridgestone or Michelin for dat Costco discount. FYI though, RSRR in 255/40/17 are something like $700 fitted for 4.

FFP also isn't exactly needed, i.e save your money. GTX3582 and 8374 are gonna be too laggy for a motor that only revs to 7k. Unless you rev it to 8k, in which case see earlier comments re: "Stock motor compatibility". Think full boost at 4500RPM and see earlier comments re: "RWD" Excellent for GTR, especially ones already had a rebuild. If you're smart you can mount something that'll do 350+ every day to the stock manifold location and not need a FFP, not need external gates and their plumbing/exhaust and not need a rebuilt motor for much longer and also have such useful features as "having grip" and "boost well before 4k" FWIW I was told in a single gate setup you'd need a 50mm gate. I have one and it works quite well actually, can run as low as 10-11psi. Keep in mind you also have a R34 so clearance in that region for big exhausts and EWG's and screamer pipes may not be compatible with "Air conditioning" unless you have a fabricator with a lot of patience. All of that for 20kw you wont notice and lack of a million things you will

Precisions have mostly fallen out of favor recently. They haven't gone backwards or anything but it looks like they never really got adopted. Seem to be pretty popular with the drag crowd. "Too much lag" and "400kw" and "RWD" aren't compatible (imo) with "Stock engine". GTX3071 if you must go Garrett, but be creative and think G25-660 if you want your wallet to bleed the cost of buying a new setup.

Sell car, buy someone's finished project (i.e mine) etc etc. If you want to pay more money than you have to, I'd be saying go get a the new Garrett G25 range and make that work. If the claims are to be believed that's probably the best way forward. If it 'only' makes 350kw it's going to be a far better car than 400kw on a 2.5 for many, many, many reasons for 99% of street driving. I have a set of 1400cc delphi stainless steel injectors I got through scotty nm35 on here, which have served me well with no dramas whatsoever over many years. They will more than support the power you are after if the 2000-2200's as above are no good, they are definitely overkill in any case as I had no problems in the past pushing what must have been 460+kw

I have the above plus more, a 2.8 neo with a borg warner that made 390kw at 17psi lol. It'd cost about the same if you wanted everything. It would cost you about 1/4 of what you'd pay buying everything new. Send a PM if actually interested. Probably easier to just buy the car and re-shell everything in mine to the coupe you wanted. Save yourself 70k

These are listed as 2.5, the 7670 is 2.0. Will email them and see what they say.

Nothing beats the fury of ol mate in a v6 commo wagon doing 200kmh on opposite side of the road in Mt Waverley yesterday. Must have really needed to take a shit

Budget? (i.e multiple 10s of thousands)

Depends on how much you tyre you actually want to run and how much you want to get your guards rolled. Yes, depending on the above. I have a 9.5 +27. It needs a roll to run 265 tyres. Your answer to the first line of this post will determine whether you do as well.

Anyone here got a source on 90 deg compressor covers for the 7670? I thought this was the B2 frame, though it looks like the outlet of the 8374 is 2.5in, and the 7670 is 2in, can't seem to find an "OEM" style fix for this. Would appreciate something less agricultural than simply welding a 90 degree on literally in a backyard. Given the outlet is VERY close to the 6boost manifold runners Silcon is only going to last so long. So long in this case meaning it died yesterday and I doubt very much that the heat shielding aluminum stuff I put around it is going to keep it alive.

... it literally just sounds like the engine, with no mufflers

Oh I'm sure they are... but they're from a Yaris where as the other option is from a R35 GTR.....

As mentioned, R35 GTR kits for RB's are on the very near horizon. Seems Yaris coils have come and gone. Lots of people (SR20 land) are questioning how good they are long term, kind of underlying the whole "This is a Yaris part" worry that people had. People are much happier to put R35 GTR parts in for very similar cash.

I have 370rwkw Not TUFF enuf

Yes, everyone is a bunch of invite only elitist flogs who are scared to have their idea of "this is a nice car" challenged. I now have cancer from reading about "secret cruises" in Craigieburn for VIP cars.

Y'all bonkers. The only bad thing about screamer pipes is the sound is very jarring if you have an otherwise quiet exhaust system. So when you plumb it in, remove a muffler.

Realistically from an engineering and fun standpoint what you are doing is fine. If there's no issue, or "no issue" then man do it. The only reason people plumb them in is because we're worried what people think about the sound, and by 'people' we mean police. It's juvenile, but car people love loud cars and juvenile shit (when noone is watching)

I dug up the ol EFR vs Garrett Dyno I had at the time, looks like the EFR does in fact come on sooner, but "Worlds apart" it certainly wasn't. This was the EFR at 18psi, and the GTX at the time was ~24psi. VCT isn't working on either, but honestly looking at a graph like that the auto made anything come on HARD and it's really pretty hard to judge transient and response in that context. I haven't posted the dyno sheet of the car as it sits currently as there wasn't much point with a MBC, and VCT not working.

The only direct comparison I have between these two turbos was when the car was Auto with a (good) aftermarket stall converter in it. The 7670 had better transient response, though on an auto that is hard to judge. In terms of when the boost came on, there was no notable difference between the two. This could also be masked by the auto. I can't overstate how much more the auto made the car spool up compared to the manual. The car is manual now (and all my calculations about how much driveline loss between auto and manual were correct), and I never drove the GTX3582 in manual land. Without doubt the biggest lag-inducer in the setup was when I added the clutch!!!. But, I still prefer it. If we're talking boost threshold, no notable difference, for me, with my setup at the time. If we're talking transient, then yes, but the EFR is also on a T4, TS, 6boost setup while the GTX3582 was bolted to the stock manifold. So not exactly apples for apples either, part of that difference surely manifold based.

I actually think the 7670 (in 1.05) and the 8374 (in 1.05) are closer than most people realise. Certainly more than I realised. I never wanted 400kw, and I never wanted 450kw, but I'd be damn surprised if this DOESN'T make 450kw if I decide to run 24psi through it. I'm just relaying my experiences with this specific turbo as most of the people here have the 8374, Maybe BW shipped me the wrong model number (no, they didn't) I wanted to go a step smaller than the GTX3582 I had, but it looks like I actually went nowhere at all size-wise by going from GTX3582 to EFR 7670. Yes, I'm surprised by this as well. The EFR result from that evo is here -> https://www.full-race.com/store/borg-warner-efr/turbos-efr-series/borgwarner-efr-7670-turbo-2/ (sorry, 640hp is 477kw, not 488). My experiences suggest the turbo behaves exactly like a turbo of that size, that'd max out about that power... coincidentally.... a GTX3582 is also this size, and behaves similarily, which is exactly what I had on this motor before

I mean it's not a lot of boost for that much power (in my opinion) showing that it's either an efficient setup or a large turbo. I am not running a stock RB25, I have a RB28 neo with a fair amount of head work. It's a long long way from a stock RB25. Mat's car is a good example, I still think the 7670 is probably fine if you want 450kw lol. It (the 7670) behaves exactly as you would expect a 450kw turbo to behave. If someone had a stock R33 RB25DET and said "I want a 320kw setup" noone would/should recommend something 450kw capable and running at 320 to be "the best solution". If the 8374 is a GTX3582/3584RS competitor, then the 7670 is ... a GTX3582 competitor or a GTX3576 competitor which is also very very VERY close to a 3582 in real world. It is not a GTX3076/GTX3071 competitor. It's not in that category. Stepping down "one size" i.e (3582 -> 3076) is not the same in BW land (8374 -> 7670). I thought this, but maybe I should have looked/read a little more. That said, on my car, the 7670 is about perfect. I like the fact that peak power is pretty much 6800-7300rpm, feels extremely linear to me and with big rear housings it's not going to choke/overheat/explode manifolds or otherwise be a pain in the ass. But for me to run ~310-320kw to preserve my gearbox, I get to run a whopping 10.5psi. Which I'm OK with, but it's hardly the most responsive way to make that power, nor is it to make 350, and a GTX3076 won't be running that low boost to get there.