Kinkstaah

Nah no alignment. Wasn't my car either lol, dhf tyres in hallam if down that way. Wasn't 3+1 however, one day I'll go to Costco and actually ask them to price match on re71r or PS4 or pilot sport cups, while I get fat on hotdogs there.

Where were they from? Did think about going Bridgestone or Michelin for dat Costco discount. FYI though, RSRR in 255/40/17 are something like $700 fitted for 4.

FFP also isn't exactly needed, i.e save your money. GTX3582 and 8374 are gonna be too laggy for a motor that only revs to 7k. Unless you rev it to 8k, in which case see earlier comments re: "Stock motor compatibility". Think full boost at 4500RPM and see earlier comments re: "RWD" Excellent for GTR, especially ones already had a rebuild. If you're smart you can mount something that'll do 350+ every day to the stock manifold location and not need a FFP, not need external gates and their plumbing/exhaust and not need a rebuilt motor for much longer and also have such useful features as "having grip" and "boost well before 4k" FWIW I was told in a single gate setup you'd need a 50mm gate. I have one and it works quite well actually, can run as low as 10-11psi. Keep in mind you also have a R34 so clearance in that region for big exhausts and EWG's and screamer pipes may not be compatible with "Air conditioning" unless you have a fabricator with a lot of patience. All of that for 20kw you wont notice and lack of a million things you will

Precisions have mostly fallen out of favor recently. They haven't gone backwards or anything but it looks like they never really got adopted. Seem to be pretty popular with the drag crowd. "Too much lag" and "400kw" and "RWD" aren't compatible (imo) with "Stock engine". GTX3071 if you must go Garrett, but be creative and think G25-660 if you want your wallet to bleed the cost of buying a new setup.

Sell car, buy someone's finished project (i.e mine) etc etc. If you want to pay more money than you have to, I'd be saying go get a the new Garrett G25 range and make that work. If the claims are to be believed that's probably the best way forward. If it 'only' makes 350kw it's going to be a far better car than 400kw on a 2.5 for many, many, many reasons for 99% of street driving. I have a set of 1400cc delphi stainless steel injectors I got through scotty nm35 on here, which have served me well with no dramas whatsoever over many years. They will more than support the power you are after if the 2000-2200's as above are no good, they are definitely overkill in any case as I had no problems in the past pushing what must have been 460+kw

I have the above plus more, a 2.8 neo with a borg warner that made 390kw at 17psi lol. It'd cost about the same if you wanted everything. It would cost you about 1/4 of what you'd pay buying everything new. Send a PM if actually interested. Probably easier to just buy the car and re-shell everything in mine to the coupe you wanted. Save yourself 70k

These are listed as 2.5, the 7670 is 2.0. Will email them and see what they say.

Nothing beats the fury of ol mate in a v6 commo wagon doing 200kmh on opposite side of the road in Mt Waverley yesterday. Must have really needed to take a shit

Budget? (i.e multiple 10s of thousands)

Depends on how much you tyre you actually want to run and how much you want to get your guards rolled. Yes, depending on the above. I have a 9.5 +27. It needs a roll to run 265 tyres. Your answer to the first line of this post will determine whether you do as well.

Anyone here got a source on 90 deg compressor covers for the 7670? I thought this was the B2 frame, though it looks like the outlet of the 8374 is 2.5in, and the 7670 is 2in, can't seem to find an "OEM" style fix for this. Would appreciate something less agricultural than simply welding a 90 degree on literally in a backyard. Given the outlet is VERY close to the 6boost manifold runners Silcon is only going to last so long. So long in this case meaning it died yesterday and I doubt very much that the heat shielding aluminum stuff I put around it is going to keep it alive.

... it literally just sounds like the engine, with no mufflers

Oh I'm sure they are... but they're from a Yaris where as the other option is from a R35 GTR.....

As mentioned, R35 GTR kits for RB's are on the very near horizon. Seems Yaris coils have come and gone. Lots of people (SR20 land) are questioning how good they are long term, kind of underlying the whole "This is a Yaris part" worry that people had. People are much happier to put R35 GTR parts in for very similar cash.

I have 370rwkw Not TUFF enuf

Yes, everyone is a bunch of invite only elitist flogs who are scared to have their idea of "this is a nice car" challenged. I now have cancer from reading about "secret cruises" in Craigieburn for VIP cars.

Y'all bonkers. The only bad thing about screamer pipes is the sound is very jarring if you have an otherwise quiet exhaust system. So when you plumb it in, remove a muffler.

Realistically from an engineering and fun standpoint what you are doing is fine. If there's no issue, or "no issue" then man do it. The only reason people plumb them in is because we're worried what people think about the sound, and by 'people' we mean police. It's juvenile, but car people love loud cars and juvenile shit (when noone is watching)

I dug up the ol EFR vs Garrett Dyno I had at the time, looks like the EFR does in fact come on sooner, but "Worlds apart" it certainly wasn't. This was the EFR at 18psi, and the GTX at the time was ~24psi. VCT isn't working on either, but honestly looking at a graph like that the auto made anything come on HARD and it's really pretty hard to judge transient and response in that context. I haven't posted the dyno sheet of the car as it sits currently as there wasn't much point with a MBC, and VCT not working.

The only direct comparison I have between these two turbos was when the car was Auto with a (good) aftermarket stall converter in it. The 7670 had better transient response, though on an auto that is hard to judge. In terms of when the boost came on, there was no notable difference between the two. This could also be masked by the auto. I can't overstate how much more the auto made the car spool up compared to the manual. The car is manual now (and all my calculations about how much driveline loss between auto and manual were correct), and I never drove the GTX3582 in manual land. Without doubt the biggest lag-inducer in the setup was when I added the clutch!!!. But, I still prefer it. If we're talking boost threshold, no notable difference, for me, with my setup at the time. If we're talking transient, then yes, but the EFR is also on a T4, TS, 6boost setup while the GTX3582 was bolted to the stock manifold. So not exactly apples for apples either, part of that difference surely manifold based.

I actually think the 7670 (in 1.05) and the 8374 (in 1.05) are closer than most people realise. Certainly more than I realised. I never wanted 400kw, and I never wanted 450kw, but I'd be damn surprised if this DOESN'T make 450kw if I decide to run 24psi through it. I'm just relaying my experiences with this specific turbo as most of the people here have the 8374, Maybe BW shipped me the wrong model number (no, they didn't) I wanted to go a step smaller than the GTX3582 I had, but it looks like I actually went nowhere at all size-wise by going from GTX3582 to EFR 7670. Yes, I'm surprised by this as well. The EFR result from that evo is here -> https://www.full-race.com/store/borg-warner-efr/turbos-efr-series/borgwarner-efr-7670-turbo-2/ (sorry, 640hp is 477kw, not 488). My experiences suggest the turbo behaves exactly like a turbo of that size, that'd max out about that power... coincidentally.... a GTX3582 is also this size, and behaves similarily, which is exactly what I had on this motor before

I mean it's not a lot of boost for that much power (in my opinion) showing that it's either an efficient setup or a large turbo. I am not running a stock RB25, I have a RB28 neo with a fair amount of head work. It's a long long way from a stock RB25. Mat's car is a good example, I still think the 7670 is probably fine if you want 450kw lol. It (the 7670) behaves exactly as you would expect a 450kw turbo to behave. If someone had a stock R33 RB25DET and said "I want a 320kw setup" noone would/should recommend something 450kw capable and running at 320 to be "the best solution". If the 8374 is a GTX3582/3584RS competitor, then the 7670 is ... a GTX3582 competitor or a GTX3576 competitor which is also very very VERY close to a 3582 in real world. It is not a GTX3076/GTX3071 competitor. It's not in that category. Stepping down "one size" i.e (3582 -> 3076) is not the same in BW land (8374 -> 7670). I thought this, but maybe I should have looked/read a little more. That said, on my car, the 7670 is about perfect. I like the fact that peak power is pretty much 6800-7300rpm, feels extremely linear to me and with big rear housings it's not going to choke/overheat/explode manifolds or otherwise be a pain in the ass. But for me to run ~310-320kw to preserve my gearbox, I get to run a whopping 10.5psi. Which I'm OK with, but it's hardly the most responsive way to make that power, nor is it to make 350, and a GTX3076 won't be running that low boost to get there.

by "i've seen" I mean USA results on Evo's and STI's etc. Given how the turbo behaves and looking at it on my car on the dyno I wouldn't find it that suprising if you want to really lean on it like the 'Muricans seem to do. I wouldn't be surprised if mine gets to 450, given it's getting very close to 400 at 17psi, which most would consider is very very lazy. It's certainly not a "350kw" turbo, nor is it out of legs and "400 is maxxing it out" region of turbo either, which to me is what you'd expect if you're dropping a size down from the 8374. Quite a few people have thought of putting a 7670 onto stock RB25's and to me it just doesn't seem like a great idea for both keeping the bottom end in one piece, and lag, considering 7k rev limit as opposed to the 26 with 8.

I did get my dyno and I found a few things about my setup. 1) VCT wasn't working. Grounded it manually on the dyno and got some response. After crawling around in the heat, found out that wiring was never completed, may not have been wired in for years since I re-shelled the car. Whoops. Was un-noticable with the auto box helping out in the past with spool. 2) My boost solenoid is definitely farked. Found out towards the end of the session that it'd work once or twice, and after getting hot it'd start doing WEIRD SHIT, so it was a mechanical issue and not my backyard tuning, which was nice. Has a good ol MBC in there now and that behaved over multiple runs but was sub-optimal. Picture is after VCT, 20psi @ 3765 rpm, (I added more fuel after...) though it could be improved a bit, it may be 3690rpm or what have you as thats just where my mouse cursor was at the trace. Is "coming on boost" 19.9psi or 20.5psi, etc etc. This is with a boost tee, so it could be improved with proper EBC holding the gate shut longer ETC. Given the turbo does not fall over at 7300rpm+ I am pretty convinced that it is a 'big turbo is big' and seeing results of people making 488kw with a 7670 makes me think this turbo in it's 1.05 trim really is just a big turbo. The turbine wheel is 2mm bigger than a GTX3582 and all the data backs it up. In short, I'd say that the 7670 1.05 is certainly a LOT closer to the 8374 than it is closer to the 7163, given my car made ~380-390kw at 17psi it shows all the signs of it being a big turbo. Just something to keep in mind for those who "Don't want 450kw like the 8374", the 7670 in 1.05 isn't that turbo as it'll definitely also do 450, making me think this thing really isn't suited for an unopened 2.5 for those who are looking in that market.

They will all 'fit' but some of the wiring is different. If the ONLY thing wrong is the lens being broken like that, you could throw them in the oven and replace the broken lens of your current headlight with the working lens of any R34 headlight, new or used. Then you don't need to worry about anything else. Having one Xenon light and one Halogen light is uh....