Kinkstaah

As mentioned even in the last year their product range has about doubled and their naming has changed to boot. Makes sense that they're continually refining the product, I guess as they can now say "WTAC Winnars" you'd want to make sure your product is front line and catering to as many needs as you can

I want to say this is because MCA have always used 'different' sping rates and make the difference up with valving. Or something. Their numbers have always been signifigantly higher but it doesn't translate to 'more hardness/firmness' as such as if you ran around running 14/11 BC's or Bilsteins or Tein's or Shockworks or etc.

Argh, if only I could trust these fit my brakes. Someone apparently fitted a 380mm kit under these (in 17!) Any photos of the fitment at the car? Seems like it'd poke. Mainly the rear. Can you check the sizes for this - It doesn't look like these are the sizes going by your build thread photos, but maybe different rims.

I mean one of them... I think a (supposed) 660hp turbo is pretty perfect for a 2.5 or a 3L. Just need someone to be a guinea pig to see if the wild claims are true. 2 of them to go and make 1300hp is just going to end in tears, or running them very lazily making them less than effective. The correct answer is get RWC then go single and keep the old ones in a box.

.....then put one of them on.

The rear actually scrubs more than the front, just a FYI. Expect/Budget/Roll the rears before putting them on

Seems a little counter-inuitive. Bad tyres, uncomfortable shocks, but you seem to want a great road ride that's also great on the track? There's only so far that is even possible. MCA or Shockworks will do what you want however. Shockworks will be cheaper, but BC ER's aren't actually that bad and I'm not sure you'd notice some world of amazing difference, the changes are going to be subtle, there's no way around the fact that making it softer on the street will make it softer on the track. Everyone has rave reviews about physically calling MCA and talking to them (Josh gets a good rap) so it's probably worth just picking up the phone with an idea of what you really want out of this particular car. The cost is high but everyone seems to say its well worth it in the end.

Oh yeah, they are full "pro" things, but I just had no idea that boats were physically capable of turning like F1 cars, ever. Quite eye-opening!

Pictured - 9.5 +27 with 265's Bottom pic is *after* rolling/pulling guards.

Hey mate. They're basically perfect, as I have 9.5 and +27 all round. You WILL need to roll/lip the guards if you want to run chunky tyres. I run 265's all round and I do not get scrub and I mean that will barely fit. The 9.5 +38/+35 will hit at the front. Need a spacer. IMO, the +27 at the rear pokes more than the front does, I was suprised that when putting same wheel size on all 4 the fronts natrually are a little more in. I want a 10+38 on the rear so I can run a 285/295 for max tyre. So ultimately, you may need a spacer or two if you go for the +35/38 combination, the 27 will max it out. 35 with some spacers/extended studs will get it to sit in a little.

Until you see some of the fast modded boats go around, read something like 4-5G in cornering ability, in a boat. Was like um ok!

IWG versions of most EFR setups have proven to be a bit disappointing. Don't forget this turbo has a rear end wheel bigger than a gt35, it will always be 'laggy' its a pretty big turbo, not being able to spin it up due to gate issues (or 98) will take the wind out of it.

Because it was never needed for any other turbo and rough approximations by power seem to have done the job 100% of the time [emoji14]

Is it just a pair of the rp01s or a full set?

I have this turbo so a vested interest on how this turns out [emoji14]

I thought caltex stopped selling e85 many years ago now? Only Vic?

Get a 7163 - Have seen and driven it in action on a 2L. 0.8 or perhaps larger rear housing. Don't flirt with overspeed, this isn't overspeeding at 320kw, which is great for your target or 275-300.

Sold/Delete etc!

I don't even know what shocks I have, Only that they are pretty good. I wrote down B6, so I figure when I had them off the car in the past... I wrote this down then... Bilstein Aus said the leak is a bit normal as they tend to weep when used normally, as long as it's not leaving trails or actual drops of oil on the shock itself it's not blown. They also said a lot of shops diagnose them as blown when in reality they are working as expected. Kind of nice of them to not just take the money to fix things.

They were, and they are now closed/rebranded as "H&R". I went to them when they were still quadrant and they said that the place was for sale at the time. Bilstein Australia actually said they have no local dealers. (via FB).

Bilstein will rebuild them, but they're in Sydney and the turnaround time is ~3 weeks during which I have no car.. Therein lies my problem!

Anyone know a mob in Melbourne that will actually rebuild a shock?

But this is on the full race website, on a 2JZ Supra running 20psi. This is a 7670, 1.05. It's not rolling over at the top. I wager mine would actually be similar to this, but yes just guessing. Given when testing boost I was able to hit 32psi (oops!!) at the same RPM that the spike ordinarily would happen (i.e, comes on boost) Closing the gate, knowing its damn closed (hence 32psi) doesn't bring it on any earlier. It's also worth knowing that after this 32psi experiement I blew off the hose that runs between the plenum and the idle control. All the others were secure, clamped, don't appear to be leaking etc. Will obviously double check VCT and such on the dyno, but I really think it simply is working as-is.

Having a look at a 9174 (when they were all bought) the rear of the 7670 1.05 is actually basically the same damn size. I am sure at this point an 8374 would do what the 7670 does but with just more power tbh. The delivery of the thing belies its "lag" as it really does just get on boost and keep pulling in a very linear, very stable very unrelenting fashion. There's no power skids here (almost, though!) and personally I like that. If I did have monster midrange, I would have setup boost by gear to effectively create what I currently have. The target was always about 350kw running moderately lazy because I have melted manifolds and rear housings in the past at the track - so I suppose I have this and it fits the bill. It just feels a bit agricultural to be using open loop, but in the grand scheme of things I had to control the controller manually to get the result. Will have a dyno result in about 3 weeks when it goes there and shall test the accuracy of my butt dyno.

It's a full progate. As more testing unfolds (i.e line directly to gate) it's starting to really look like the boost threshold is something I have to live with. It will spike when running directly between compressor housing and bottom port of wastegate with nothing else attached. When it wants to spin up it really will spin up. Suppose it's just a compromise from choosing the setup I ended up choosing. Looking at the exhaust housings back to back is pretty telling, and I chose the turbo so it wouldn't be maxxed out/overheated/choked etc, so I ended having that at the expense of less power and more lag relative to the Garrett Option With 0% duty cycle it (boost) behaves the same as being connected directly to the turbo with nothing in the middle of it. This will cause boost to come on full at about 4500rpm (3rd) and peak at 15psi, I've then fed in duty cycle to continue it to climb up to about 19. I'd change the housing at the rear, but there is no housing to change to. Being RWD perhaps there's not much sense having 20psi at 3000RPM anyhow.. car feels pretty planted and on the edge of slip all the way through the rev range so I suppose that's also good. Still think the 7670 EWG (1.05) would be bad news on a 2.5 with that housing though. OFC if someone buys one and has wildly excellent results then I'll go hunting for fixes again