Kinkstaah

by "i've seen" I mean USA results on Evo's and STI's etc. Given how the turbo behaves and looking at it on my car on the dyno I wouldn't find it that suprising if you want to really lean on it like the 'Muricans seem to do. I wouldn't be surprised if mine gets to 450, given it's getting very close to 400 at 17psi, which most would consider is very very lazy. It's certainly not a "350kw" turbo, nor is it out of legs and "400 is maxxing it out" region of turbo either, which to me is what you'd expect if you're dropping a size down from the 8374. Quite a few people have thought of putting a 7670 onto stock RB25's and to me it just doesn't seem like a great idea for both keeping the bottom end in one piece, and lag, considering 7k rev limit as opposed to the 26 with 8.

I did get my dyno and I found a few things about my setup. 1) VCT wasn't working. Grounded it manually on the dyno and got some response. After crawling around in the heat, found out that wiring was never completed, may not have been wired in for years since I re-shelled the car. Whoops. Was un-noticable with the auto box helping out in the past with spool. 2) My boost solenoid is definitely farked. Found out towards the end of the session that it'd work once or twice, and after getting hot it'd start doing WEIRD SHIT, so it was a mechanical issue and not my backyard tuning, which was nice. Has a good ol MBC in there now and that behaved over multiple runs but was sub-optimal. Picture is after VCT, 20psi @ 3765 rpm, (I added more fuel after...) though it could be improved a bit, it may be 3690rpm or what have you as thats just where my mouse cursor was at the trace. Is "coming on boost" 19.9psi or 20.5psi, etc etc. This is with a boost tee, so it could be improved with proper EBC holding the gate shut longer ETC. Given the turbo does not fall over at 7300rpm+ I am pretty convinced that it is a 'big turbo is big' and seeing results of people making 488kw with a 7670 makes me think this turbo in it's 1.05 trim really is just a big turbo. The turbine wheel is 2mm bigger than a GTX3582 and all the data backs it up. In short, I'd say that the 7670 1.05 is certainly a LOT closer to the 8374 than it is closer to the 7163, given my car made ~380-390kw at 17psi it shows all the signs of it being a big turbo. Just something to keep in mind for those who "Don't want 450kw like the 8374", the 7670 in 1.05 isn't that turbo as it'll definitely also do 450, making me think this thing really isn't suited for an unopened 2.5 for those who are looking in that market.

They will all 'fit' but some of the wiring is different. If the ONLY thing wrong is the lens being broken like that, you could throw them in the oven and replace the broken lens of your current headlight with the working lens of any R34 headlight, new or used. Then you don't need to worry about anything else. Having one Xenon light and one Halogen light is uh....

How did this compare to the events at DECA in the end? I.e skidpan size, track time and such? Amount of runs? Realise first time there's some kinks to work out but what was the vibe in regards to the venue?

There's so many times I wish hook turns were considered normal. I would MUCH, MUCH, MUCH, MUCH prefer to do a hook turn to turn right at every intersection, I hate that waiting in the middle of the intersection trying to turn right as everyone tries to beat the yellow across etc. Let me sit there and do a 90 degree when the light goes green. It's just a better way and I reckon it'd avoid accidents with people trying to beat their respecetive light. (whether turning right, or going straight)

As mentioned even in the last year their product range has about doubled and their naming has changed to boot. Makes sense that they're continually refining the product, I guess as they can now say "WTAC Winnars" you'd want to make sure your product is front line and catering to as many needs as you can

I want to say this is because MCA have always used 'different' sping rates and make the difference up with valving. Or something. Their numbers have always been signifigantly higher but it doesn't translate to 'more hardness/firmness' as such as if you ran around running 14/11 BC's or Bilsteins or Tein's or Shockworks or etc.

Argh, if only I could trust these fit my brakes. Someone apparently fitted a 380mm kit under these (in 17!) Any photos of the fitment at the car? Seems like it'd poke. Mainly the rear. Can you check the sizes for this - It doesn't look like these are the sizes going by your build thread photos, but maybe different rims.

I mean one of them... I think a (supposed) 660hp turbo is pretty perfect for a 2.5 or a 3L. Just need someone to be a guinea pig to see if the wild claims are true. 2 of them to go and make 1300hp is just going to end in tears, or running them very lazily making them less than effective. The correct answer is get RWC then go single and keep the old ones in a box.

.....then put one of them on.

The rear actually scrubs more than the front, just a FYI. Expect/Budget/Roll the rears before putting them on

Seems a little counter-inuitive. Bad tyres, uncomfortable shocks, but you seem to want a great road ride that's also great on the track? There's only so far that is even possible. MCA or Shockworks will do what you want however. Shockworks will be cheaper, but BC ER's aren't actually that bad and I'm not sure you'd notice some world of amazing difference, the changes are going to be subtle, there's no way around the fact that making it softer on the street will make it softer on the track. Everyone has rave reviews about physically calling MCA and talking to them (Josh gets a good rap) so it's probably worth just picking up the phone with an idea of what you really want out of this particular car. The cost is high but everyone seems to say its well worth it in the end.

Oh yeah, they are full "pro" things, but I just had no idea that boats were physically capable of turning like F1 cars, ever. Quite eye-opening!

Pictured - 9.5 +27 with 265's Bottom pic is *after* rolling/pulling guards.

Hey mate. They're basically perfect, as I have 9.5 and +27 all round. You WILL need to roll/lip the guards if you want to run chunky tyres. I run 265's all round and I do not get scrub and I mean that will barely fit. The 9.5 +38/+35 will hit at the front. Need a spacer. IMO, the +27 at the rear pokes more than the front does, I was suprised that when putting same wheel size on all 4 the fronts natrually are a little more in. I want a 10+38 on the rear so I can run a 285/295 for max tyre. So ultimately, you may need a spacer or two if you go for the +35/38 combination, the 27 will max it out. 35 with some spacers/extended studs will get it to sit in a little.

Until you see some of the fast modded boats go around, read something like 4-5G in cornering ability, in a boat. Was like um ok!

IWG versions of most EFR setups have proven to be a bit disappointing. Don't forget this turbo has a rear end wheel bigger than a gt35, it will always be 'laggy' its a pretty big turbo, not being able to spin it up due to gate issues (or 98) will take the wind out of it.

Because it was never needed for any other turbo and rough approximations by power seem to have done the job 100% of the time [emoji14]

Is it just a pair of the rp01s or a full set?

I have this turbo so a vested interest on how this turns out [emoji14]

I thought caltex stopped selling e85 many years ago now? Only Vic?

Get a 7163 - Have seen and driven it in action on a 2L. 0.8 or perhaps larger rear housing. Don't flirt with overspeed, this isn't overspeeding at 320kw, which is great for your target or 275-300.

Sold/Delete etc!

I don't even know what shocks I have, Only that they are pretty good. I wrote down B6, so I figure when I had them off the car in the past... I wrote this down then... Bilstein Aus said the leak is a bit normal as they tend to weep when used normally, as long as it's not leaving trails or actual drops of oil on the shock itself it's not blown. They also said a lot of shops diagnose them as blown when in reality they are working as expected. Kind of nice of them to not just take the money to fix things.

They were, and they are now closed/rebranded as "H&R". I went to them when they were still quadrant and they said that the place was for sale at the time. Bilstein Australia actually said they have no local dealers. (via FB).