Kinkstaah

This results in you doing this to every shop that exists, and having no car at the end of it. They will also charge you for the half done job that has completed, parts etc. The next place will just say "I do not want the job"

Your piping surely ain't worse than mine - It should not "blow off" the track and my piping is with a return flow and standard plenum, I mean, you saw it. Save your money. Get clamps, better joiners, etc. My stock piping was fine with a return flow cooler at 420kw in Auto land (which I calculated is 13-15% power loss over manual). If you are mmmming and ahhh'ing about an E92 M3 then budget is not an issue I still think that something sitting in a garage is sad. Best mod for speed isn't EFR or GTX, for most people it is Driver mod. Save yourself 7K and do 7K worth of track days in the thing!

I don't have this, but I do have a turbine housing with a gate on it, which worked as well as having the gate on the manifold. If for some reason you haven't finished the build yet, send PM

Yeah, for what you are asking there is no benefit, none at all, to even consider changing the stock cam. And ABSOLUTELY NEVER removing VCT. I mean, sure if you have a 5000RPM stall converter in the car, and you rev it to the point where VCT disengages naturally there may be no benefit of VCT... but if you spend any time below the disengage point, you will get benefit from it, and if you pick up 1 or 2 tenths anywhere I can't imagine a situation you'd want it more than in a drag application

The thing is, there is no "another shop" to go to All shops act this way, that would work on these motors.

It honestly depends on how happy you are and how much time/money you have. Anything can ultimately fit and one person's easy is another person's impossibly difficult. EFR's typically run about ~3000-3200. Manifold and coating + shipping is $1750 ish. It took 8 weeks to arrive correctly. External gate costs $600+ unless you find one second hand. Fabrication work I needed would cost $2000 at Havoc. You'll need to buy a pod filter, so that's another $100. You will need to buy lines, GCG sell a kit for $400. Heat beanie on turbo? $200-400 depending on brand. Heat shielding for the "heat proof" lines kit GCG gave me? Another $300-350. Vaccum lines, hose clamps, zip ties, random shit = $100 Tows to and from workshops/fabricator/AC place/To tuner = ???? 20 hours of Labor = ????? Tune = ????? (I DIY'ed mine and got it checked to be perfect in an hour, yay me) It can get expensive, even if you do all your stuff yourself. Other stuff: Aircon line fouled, had to remove it at friends place with hoist. Do not attempt to do this because while we de-gassed the system (and had to abandon the garage, which was large... for 30 minutes, it also snap froze the welding glove being used to do it. Then when it was de-pressurized, we removed the fitting to take the line off. An explosion happened, green "Stuff" went everywhere and we both held our breath and abandoned the garage again. It ended up costing $330 to get fixed later/re-fabbed and re-gassed. We had to trim the bolt from an engine mount to fit the manifold too. VS: GTX.. buy turbo. Shit, buy one second hand! 3071's are cheaper than 3582's and EFR's. Bolt on. Reuse everything you already have. This assume your setup is good and working fine. Given you've kept it multiple years I'm going with yes. Don't need to sell the 'extras' later. If you aren't DIY'ing the swap, you will save massively on labor. Keep in mind my car is a 2.8, with a 3076 sized turbo running 17psi with a high stall converter. All of these things amplify torque and response a lot. Most people go an 8374 with a 2.6 and say its possibly too small, let alone a smaller turbo with more motor. I would sell my engine bay if someone gave me half of what it cost to do it. There is a vicious curve of diminishing returns at life above 300-320kw, and I can't honestly 'recommend' it unless you have the funds where it doesn't matter much to you, in which case I am more often saying "Buy a golf R with an APR tune" instead nowadays.

Hey man if you want you can have my entire car and/or everything in the engine bay. You know how much it costs as you know the guy who built it

Its stories like mine that generate the opinions that smart people listen to and benefit from

I have been a few times, I did 11.9 on my old setup with AD08R's and an intercooler pipe blowing off half track because of course something like that would happen to me. So it was a nice weird time of a 11.9 at 116mph with a 2.2s 60ft. I went weekend before last to test and tune with the BW EFR and MT drag radials and went slower because I had even less grip cause it turns out the tyres I bought are 10 years old because of course they are and my 60ft was 2.6. My car only makes 320kw atm If I was Toby, for simplicity's sake I would put the GTX3071 on. Simply because it bolts on. Saves time, saves money, will work 95% as well in all the scenarios that exist. The EFR can be "made" to fit, but who is making it fit? The one thing I learned fitting it is that it is NOT bolt on, even though everything "should be" things don't always line up, you have to move this, fabricate that, take 6 hours thinking "Where am I gonna run this line..." or "I dont like how this fits..." or "This is gonna get hot..." Enjoy car. Do skidz. Do track events. Don't overcomplicate things. Don't chase other's results. Someone just made 413 KW On a 7163 (!!!) on a Golf R, which will make everyone sad at the traffic light grand prix. Someone out there will buy a new Huracan. Aim for fun, and what you want first then think of the simplest way to get there. So hurr durr why didnt I just do that? Cause I had planned on changing the setup anyway, I wanted a much larger rear housing and a more flowy manifold which ruled out leaving things where they were. I had a GTX3076R on my car int he past, and it dropped/choked 150RWKW after 6k from peak power, so as I wanted less power, I needed to open up the rear end MASSIVELY and that's why I have the setup I have now. 2.8 and a flowed head is amazing for flow but it has to flow somewhere. Swapping to a GTX3076R was the same cost for me as going BW. I initially wanted to just go back to a GTX3076R with a larger rear housing, but doing it "properly" resulted in the BW being the same price once the GTX3582 was sold. Also someone please buy my GTX3582. TLDR: Do as I say, not as I did, never ever do what Greg did.

Could be worse, I had this issue due to a cracked block.... three times. But yes, coolant going into the wrong places can cause a misfire. Especially a misfire with white smoke.

I had heard rumours that the "stock" canister wasn't much good, and the borg warner "heavy duty" one was better and pretty much shipped with all turbos now. As The 7064 is "older" I guess it's got the older canister with it too, there you go, can see why they upgraded it The thing about torque converters is they can generate boost at 0 road speed, and if your RPM is derived from 0 road speed it'd be a bit misleading to show 15psi at apparently 500rpm :p. Combined with more losses in the drivetrain elsewhere you have to really only compare it to itself. I did see this on the dyno but I don't have a graph of it - Comparing a 270kw GTX3582 to a 320kw EFR 7670 with all else being the same the EFR was massively ahead everywhere, but I also have graphs to show the 3582 absolutely massacring the 7670. Point being, compare the dyno numbers to your own car if you can at any time. Ultimately the turbos don't "lie", you will get your result based on the rest of your setup. Noone is going to be unhappy with a GTX3071R gen2 or a 7163/7670 on a RB25, the question is how easy is it to fit. In Tony's case a GTX3071 will bolt directly to where his Hypergear is. Will the EFR IWG? (no idea) Either of them will make you a happy man.

I also had my tune on Friday, but because automatic with high stall the graphs as usual aren't really comparable. It made 324kw at 18psi at under 20 degrees of ignition timing running E85. The stock converter slips at about 7%, and I was told the new TC that I got at the time slips about "7% more than stock" as in you'll drop 7% of MPH after the upgrade, so your guess is as good as mine what it'd make with a manual in it. At some point I will post up the differences there too I have all the graphs, but the runs were done on 9s on the EFR and the GTX ones were 12s pulls which makes quite a big difference on how they display in terms of response when you have a torque converter at play, so they'd be misleading here.

After taking mine to the drags (I was slower than the garrett amagad) for test and tuning I found that at full noise the turbo is actually really not that loud at all - It's only loud when it's spooling up and being just under positive pressure/2-5psi. Seems your friend has the same issue, these things whistle all the time. Mine sounds like tinnitus or an old school TV when it's running, which is an interesting problem to have in the grand scheme of things. If I had a 25 I would aim for 300kw and a 7163 which would be fkin mint a setup to have. Enough power before everything stock starts to go kablam and the best way to make it.

I went to Heathcote on the weekend, with shiny new Borg Warner turbo and MT ET Streets on 16's ready to tear up the strip Was slower than before

Up you go. Would much prefer to sell this to someone who can use it as intended/use the dump pipe etc. Otherwise all the extra stuff will go into a bin and that would be a shame.

1 hour is absolutely worth it for a good anything but especially a tune, or a workshop!

You all know I can't say that on SAU.

We're saying much the same thing I think Did he do a bottom end by cracking the bores themselves? If so I was unaware. I would wager the amount of timing is was advanced I was basically compressing an explosion. It is possible that the 34 block is just weaker (somehow, it doesnt look to be any different), but there's plenty of people making much more than me out there humming along just fine. Should the tuner in this case have said "Dude the timing numbers here are way beyond literally any car Ive ever tuned?" instead of "Gee this engine really likes timing"? Yeah probably. I'd wager that won't be said again and the magic E85 envelope won't be pushed that hard again. I'm not saying E85 isn't safer than 98, it is. On the same turbo making the same power the E85 is much safer. Whether going a larger turbo making 300kw on 98 vs a smaller turbo on E85 I am on the fence about. It's really pretty hard/impossible to know. Being safe and sensible is the best idea. E85 can let you press way further on the same hardware and it is "Safe" in the sense it gives you no indication things are about to go south quickly. You can run 10+deg or more timing and get 70 "Free" KW! You simply can't push that hard on 98 because the fuel itself is going to stop you, so you can back off at that point (i.e dont run it on a knife edge) and enjoy the car. There is no such thing as a truly free lunch. Run a few degrees of timing over your 98 but don't look a gift horse in the mouth Your own car's performance at 270kw is a good testament to keeping it simple. If I could refund everything I'd ever done I'd want a LS in my car instead. Make the magic 270-300kw as lazily as possible!

Thats the thing, not many people are splitting blocks with 400kw, but if you run as much timing as I was running (which was really wild, looking back) the car will "run fine" and E85 will not give you any indication you are near a knife edge at all. It will continue to make power and continue to take timing and continue to respond "well" even though you're well into imminent death zone. Unlike 98 which will ping, E85 will give you no such warning. I now run E85 with basically the same timing (2 deg) as 98. That said my 98 tune is more conservative than most people's run in tunes, so E85 is essentially in there for safety only. You can do crazy things with E85 (like say, add 15 deg of timing!) but don't. It's best not to make your first point of failure the engine block. I since compared many maps with many other cars at the Dyno making similar power and ones making much much more. I now get unreasonably worried when I see -9 setups on GTRs making 320kw on 98 and 390kw on E85, people making 370kw on -5's and 450 on E85 and think oh damn there's gonna be some issues there soon.

Whaaaa? What happen? Everyone I was with that day was super happy they could lend the helmet you offered. You're the shining pinnacle of "Track day people are awesome!!" in their eyes. I did not know things went badly. Please tell me you didn't split a block due to aggressive timing due to magic E85

To be honest, the quote he has been given isn't really that bad. The cost would be similar to take a GTT and take it to what is essentially a GTX3071 -320kw style build. It is a very expensive exercise. You will almost certainly blow the NA engine at that point too. GTT engine would likely be ok. Put a V8 into it instead

Only problem with E85 is that it allows you to push so hard on the tune you will break the next thing up the chain as it will never ping. This ain't so good if you have metal head gaskets, head studs, stronger pistons, rods, crank because when they aren't the weakest point you end up Gregging it™ 98 isn't a bad idea as it stops you from going too insane, its a built in safety measure of sorts to make sure the rest of your setup is actually going well. E85 is like fuel-steroids. You can get the 'right' power on 98 in a Skyline at least to the point where everything else starts to become a limitation. You may not get forum and instagram #efame but you will be able to have fun with the vehicle and have a modicum of reliability and do more than hardpark it and fap over a dyno sheet if you go full retard with timing. (or full advance on timing, really)

I live right next to Glenny Kebabs and I hate this quite a bit at times (so many stanced golf R's holy shit) I originally wanted to buy a Supra and could have, back in the day. Would have done a lot more driving I assume, but wouldn't have (needed to) learn anything at all. There is an element of fun to learning stuff, and there's always more stuff to break learn from

There is more to performance than dyno charts I just said centrifugal chargers have their benefits which aren't immediately apparent. Midrange kick is pointless if you are breaking traction there. Seperating your stuff from being tied to your exhaust manifold is also nice. The smart answer if modding a RWD skyline for power is immediately LS convert it.

After installing turbos, my next car is going to be a supercharger setup. Heat management > ALL. A RB with a 300KW centrifugal charger instead of a Turbo would probably drive like a similarily powerful V8 N/A (like a LS1-2) Except way less problems with heat, lines, plumbing, etc. If I was adding F/I to a car which didn't ordinarily have F/I (like a S2000?) a centrifugal charger suddenly becomes really very viable.