Kinkstaah

That one (the barb, near the blue joiner) is stock on a R34 neo, it does indeed go to the power steering. It's used for speed sensitive power steering (somehow) and disconnecting it does result in some VERY heavy steering.. as well as a boost leak). It runs from the PS to the charge pipe. It doesn't run to the plenum, so it'll go back to somewhere on your intercooler piping. If this doesn't exist, well you can block the hose if you like heavy steering all the time, or get a fitting put on your charge pipes.

Ah yes, but I have a top mount neo and do not need this manifold That said, you're in it, and it's on the car, so may as well finish it now.

The most important thing is don't worry too much about the state of your car or being slow. Anyone who has done a track day has been in your shoes before and remembers it well. It's really the most non-judgmental car experience I've seen before. I spent many years modding and upgrading and then found when I went there the car was WAY over kill for a beginner. (still very much a beginner!!) However the nerves only last .,.. maybe the first couple of sessions, and any apprehension you had will be obliterated near instantly. +1 for getting out there!

Scottys Customs or Havoc Fabrication are your two go-to places that will say "Ah yep I know exactly what you need" and NOT: ^--- that

The thing is, all the injectors, afm, wiring, tune, etc will be setup for the neo head. (or at least they should be). The bottom end is "dumb" in that aspect. Which is why I was saying keep the neo as it'd be simpler. I am not entirely sure what exactly is required, or what exactly was done, considering your actual swap was uh, done badly by someone in the past. May not be possible to know what is right and what is wrong! Assuming the only issue is the comp ratio, and eveyrthing "Neo" was setup and running fine I would put a Neo in. GTSBoy has a Neo in his R32, he knows things.

Definitely a valid concern, though I'd still want to put a full Neo back in in that case. It's minor, but may as well do that as the 'conversion' has already taken place, and its considered a better motor, if only slightly.

Neo bottom end is what I'd be doing. Would save you having to reconvert the car back to a R33 setup by putting stock R33. Finding a working neo bottom end though could be tricky. I would be putting a neo in over a R33 RB25. It's a better engine and it's already setup and working in the car. 3L Bottom end can be done cheap. And usually everyone would recommend a "dirty 3L cheap" bottom end but if your goal is 250kw or less, well, it'd be really right up your alley.

Starting to think I may have been a bit too conservative on a 2.8 Neo with VCT and a 7670 Buraz's result would be bonkers with AWD and 8k rpm to play with!

Up - $390 neg!

Voltage doesn't drop on boost, the autologging on the Haltech at the track shows it holding steady. Isn't stock dwell something like 1.5ms on the stock coilpacks? I'm at almost double that so I figured adding more would only result in finishing off a dying set of coils (if its that)

Just for the record, battery is new Optima Yellowtop (well, maybe 2500kms old). Voltage when on boost and hot is ~14.1V.

I did try and drop the dwell when I put the BCPR7ES's in. However that was down to 2.5ms, they have previously been running all this while at 2.9ms constant. The misfires were worse at 2.5 than they were at 2.9 so I changed it back. All of this is making me think these Splitfires have done well and had a good innings so far but may be due for retirement.

Given how the iridiums look, it seems they would be better at not being blown out, but I wouldn't think spark blowout is a thing with such a well known sparkplug and well known/'standard' power, and 18psi is not exactly extreme. They have run 2.9ms dwell for a while - but I never had this issue before, so I am inexperienced when coilpacks start to go. Can't think of what else it would be, the difference is monstrous in power. Just curious if others had seen this, before I spend another $600 testing. Or $900 if I want new OEM packs, or somewhere in between for a Yaris kit.

Coilpack (??) problem? Hi folks. So it looks like I have misfires in some odd scenarios. I have a RB28 with Splitfires (it is a RB25det neo stroker) It seems anywhere over about 12psi I get wild spark breakdown, as in car is undrivable, feels like hitting a rev limiter breakdown. Under 12psi, was fine. Did a track day on it at 12psi, had fun. My other spark plugs, below: I can run 18.5 psi on them, which is what I've run on the Dyno. I wanted to try and run 20 on the dyno but the car was not happy (breaking down, misfires) I got around the problem in the past by adding more timing... but that ended up quite poorly... So I thought I'd try the ever faithful BCPR7ES, with the aim of running over 20psi!.... but this resulted in no fun times over 12psi. I would think by this that my coils (which run quite a lot of dwell!) are beginning to fail/get old. I have had splitfires for almost 10 years now. I'm well aware of OEM coils only lasting a similar amount of time before they need to be replaced. Car does not have "a" bad misfire, it's not one cylinder, it very much feels like almost all of them when it happens. It doesn't happen under idle, and driving the car hard on 12psi with the BCPR7ES's is fine. Am I on the right track here or are there other things I am missing/could check? The car makes about 360 (?) KW or so at the moment, running 18psi with the plugs pictured above.

Wouldn't the actual restriction be the actual turbine housing itself? By my understanding of pressure, the pressure inside the manifold would not be altered depending on where the gate was, as long as it's between the head and the turbine wheel. I had 1 gate in both setups, and a 45mm gate off the housing vs a 50mm gate off the 6boost. You can tell just by looking at it which gate is in the better spot for flow. I agree with you, going external gate does free up power, once you start to really get the most out of any specific turbo. IWG's of any kinds (Even on EFR's!) seem to just not cut it once you really, really want to get the most out of a rear housing. In this example though, the engine is likely to let go before the turbo or gate really even gets involved as a point of discussion

Well not so much worn down as worn completely through and past where they would normally stop.. other rotor looked much the same. Only noticed due to the sound of grinding on the drive home lol. Would recommend, mainly because you know they won't fall apart under normal circumstances!

The 465's will mangle the stock wiring, almost need to just direct wire it and bypass all the nissan stuff. Used about 185L of fuel to get to Winton and do a track day and get back. The auto is not 'that bad' at cruising, maybe 400L for a tank but driving around town with my 5 minute commute to work just annihilates fuel. I drive like a grandpa so I am almost always in the converter (i.e under 3k rpm) Couldn't run more than 10psi of boost due to wild breakdown of spark, and rotors ended up looking like the below, (yeah the vanes are supposed to go much further...) but had a great time for first time out at Winton

Gate off housing for me was WAY, WAY, WAY, WAY, WAY better at boost control than a 6boost is. I could run anywhere from 4psi to 35psi with gate off housing, min boost on the 6boost is like 15psi with a 50MM gate whereas the previous gate was 45mm. Realistically what you're doing with gate on housing is having the gate happen after the Turbo flange, where all the air is being forced anyway and is the restriction in any manifold. Making it all fit is always the issue, but it's about as equally as fitting as modifying the stock manifold to do it. Really depends on what you feel like getting cut up. China rear housings for GT35/GT30's are readily available for $200 new from Kinugawa etc. Stock manifolds are cheap too, though. Either works for what you're looking for.

I pretty much consider a full tank of gas for any kind of spirited drive - I.e going to Healseville, Mt Donna Buang, Buxton, etc are all $80 affairs for the round trip. 98 gets me maybe 20-30 more kms from the tank. It isn't so bad as my drive to work is 5km, if I had to commute an hour each way every day then oh boy. $

I get under 200kms a tank on E85. Yay me. #autolyf

Or just buy my setup. Its what you need when you mangle a MV auto setup

It needs more fuel to crank over and 'start' but near immediately (at least on my car) it stalls if you give it any throttle. Looking at the AFR's in this state when you can, it isn't lean, nor too rich and stalling, but adding air makes the whole thing lean out and stall for that first ... ~5 seconds of running the motor. Exact same scenario 20 seconds later results in everything being fine, and it'll happen overnight on first start, but it's never a problem say, leaving car outside in winter between 7am and 5pm etc. Only overnight :p. Yes you can see why an OEM wouldn't want this and understand why Caltex would put 70% Ethanol in Eflex in winter, as this problem absolutely doesn't happen with 98.

You can cold start on E85 fine. You just have to define, fine. It was never really actually a problem to get going. At its absolute worst, expect a stall when you first fire it up (near instantly), and then you're good to go for the rest of the day. It needs *some* heat to create vapor. 98 is absolutely always happier to start and run when your car has been running for 30 seconds, but any enthusiast doesn't really give a shit if they have to crank it 5 times instead of 3, or lets it stall once in the morning if it was 5C overnight.

You would spend sooooooooo much more than 20K to reproduce this.

Oh I'm sure it will show up for sale, just like Gymhkana said lol