Kinkstaah

Making her budge is easier, and it is BY FAR making it the easiest way make it not a complete slug. Or if you must absolutely have an auto and your partner is literally missing a leg, buy another car. Now that that's safely ignored, you need an ECU to provide proper fuelling for the turbo motor as opposed to the N/A one. 5psi is signifigant difference. You need to control differences in airflow and injectors will behave differently, and you need an ECU to be able to tell the motor what to do, it's not just about preventing detting. I don't know enough about R33 ECU's to know if you can just get a stock turbo auto ECU and plug the fkin thing in, or even better, buying a turbo auto car. Any steps down this path will, 100%, always, unavoidably cost considerably more than what you paid for the current car, OR flat out just buying a turbo auto R33.

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You will have to piggyback something (as above haltech ecu will work) or put in a custom auto transmission ECU (they do exist!). Putting in a manual is better in every aspect though, including labor and yes, teaching someone to drive manual is easier than doing this conversion and a lot less hassle.

Yep, this is running a (genuine) 50mm external gate. I can get the thing to hold boost fine for 20psi, similar to KiwiRS4T posted just above, the problem is I may not want to run 20psi, I may want to run 15psi or 12psi in the fashion that was posted above, or 17 psi etc. Or say pull 5psi boost per gear in 1st, none of which really has much effect if I'm spiking to 20psi semi-controllably. I just found it astounding that the spike happens when the device is plumbed in, even with the solenoid is unplugged. The logic that air has to do a 90deg vs not is the only real difference here but I just can't see that causing this oddity!

Here is a (blurry) picture of it plumbed in. The electrical connector was disconnected further up the chain. When I join the two hoses I've labelled together with a straight barbed connector, I get no more spikes. The BW provided hose to the compressor looked a little kinked, so I replaced it with exactly zero effect.... on either configuration (plumbed into solenoid or past it straight into the gate).

1000000000000000000000000000000000000% It's pretty easy to see, blow air in one side, see where it comes out. Attach hoses inline with that flow, considering it's unplugged and all... did check to see if its leaking using the same scientific test and doesn't appear to be.

Too much power. Stock cars may run it but Skylines sure don't like living that long up there. 12psi is more than enough, 10 is okay but I'd love a little more than that, but really what I want is electronic control to actually hold the line flat instead of it falling off which is what you'd expect from a MBC or just a line to the gate directly. (12psi is 330rwkw) Can't see how removing the plumb back would affect this? The plumb back is a 2inch piece of exhaust that is well over a meter long before it joins with the exhaust again, which would be unused when the gate is shut, I can't see how adding a solenoid in the line would affect it.

Hi Folks Has anyone ever seen anything like this before with boost spiking? Below is 4 small traces from 4 pulls. Run 1 was done with a vacuum line running from the compressor housing to the wastegate. Run 2, 3, and 4 were done running the line through the (Borg Warner) 3 port boost solenoid with it ENTIRELY UNPLUGGED ELECTRICALLY. I can only surmise that the boost solenoid itself acts as a restriction. In run 4 I stayed on the gas longer and you can see it does drop to wastegate pressure. Note: I've had issues similar to this with: a) 4 port boost solenoid (MAC, very old, replaced) b) 3 port boost solenoid (MAC, literally fell apart and returned) c) Borg Warner EFR boost solenoid If something else can cause this, what could it be? The gate was/is a 50MM Progate single. I am assuming the wastegate is fine, as a hose directly from pressure source to wastegate works as expected. I have had (briefly) a MBC which also works as expected sitting in the line in the past. I have replaced all hoses and shortened them to no effect. Is there anything else to check? I'd love to run between 10 and 20psi, but it really looks that if I hook up any boost solenoid I'm going to be dealing with at least a 20psi spike before settling down to whatever boost I specify (that part does in fact work).

Heasmans in Syd (Bilstein Australia) are the only people I could find who would rebuild and revalve shocks. Great to deal with, even to the point where I sent photos over the course of a few weeks to find out if they were leaking, for them to say yep, don't worry - save your money when they could have easily have done the job.

Nope. Noone has been able to identify this sound whatsoever. It got *quieter* after an exhaust stud was tightened up. However, the sound is there, so it's entirely possible it was just more audible due to a slight exhaust leak. It does not appear to be VCT, which is now actually (blissfully) finally wired in and working.

MCA's are the bees knees. Bilsteins can get reconditioned (I asked about mine recently) for something around ~500 for all 4. So still considerably cheaper than buying a set of $2500 coilovers from MCA.

Another vote for GTX3071 here. OP mentioned he was thinking about injectors and AFM etc, so this is a turbo that will make the most out of that. GTX3071 may be not THE_BEST_EVER for outright performance on stock RB25, but it is by far the simplest way to get 99% of the performance anyone is going to ever need given what you've said just now.

Drive one. Magical diff, pft I said. Then I drove it and I was like oh. Renault newish stuff is criminally underpriced and is as reliable as any other hot hatch. Drove it for 2 weeks, no regrets. Down to 12k but would gladly take one for a drive over an Evo X.

Above in the orange is one of my aborted run at ~22psi on the 7670. Splitfires called it quits and the Dyno got mostly reconfigured as it was dummied up in the past as a 4.36 ratio because of the slip of the auto converter. It's now 4.1 (my rear diff is 4.083 but it's 0.5% difference). VCT is now actually working and wired in. The car made 330kw at 12psi, and the best run before we gave up was 433kw at 5700rpm before spark breakdown (again at 23psi). (Not pictured in graph above) No, I didn't get printouts because spent more time actually tuning the car through various boost levels between 12 and 20psi as that whole section before VCT switched off (i.e 1100 to 5500rpm) was REALLY LEAN as VCT hadn't been running..... for years... In any case, big turbo is big. I still maintain this thing is a lot closer to the 8374 than most realise. It was still picking up more than 10kw per PSI on my motor going from 330 @ 12 to what would have been over 433kw at 22-23psi.

The "everything" is way more than you'd think, because its not just a case of replacing a few things. The kits from JSAI Aero are infinitely easier. You would be looking for Fibreglass front guards, front bumper, splitter, and bonnet (as well as all the nissan GTR hinges/latches for the bonnet mechanism). It all bolts onto the R34 GTT chassis, but none of it bolts to any of the GTT panels.

Megane Megane Megane Megane Megane Megane

It's actually fairly tricky to find. I had to change the sensor and the auto loom has two things labelled as "Speed sensor" The one you want ISNT the one that is grey and shielded. Checking the loom is the way to go. If you still have the gearbox I actually looked at the plugs on the auto to figure it out and then joined the R33 speed sensor into those. I want to say they were black and brown but man I wouldn't bet on this particular response.

Update (kind of) Changed oil, no diff there other than better oil pressure. (10-60 instead of 5-40) Nothing bearingish in the oil, so I mean that's good. Same amount came out that went in, also good. Took cam cover off and engine builder had a look, was able to rotate the cam, and have the VCT gear *not* rotate. Then if rotated the engine enough, it'd get to the end of it's 'play' then lock up and all rotate as one. After this, it was actually locked up again, moving the cam would move the gear. Until you gave a the cam a little more forceful tug and the cam/vct gear would unlock. Unsure if this is 'normal' or not. There's also oil (again lol) in the Solenoid plug. Strange. Had one in the past have an oil leak there, and it was able to be moved by hand, the one currently in the car was locked in place (when outside of the car) leading us to surmise the original one was fked as it was unlocked out of the car while the other wasn't. Changed both the solenoid AND the gear that day. Maybe issue has re-occurred? Engine builder friend is going to try with people who also own these cars to perform the same test to see if the gear performs the same way.

Possibly, because the stock IACV is broken as it died on the track and gave me 2500RPM idle. I got around this by actually installing a second IACV which actually controls air flow to the now permanently full open Nissan IACV. The part that broke, was the part that otherwise moves on heat (i.e the wax pellet). So I can see how heat would no longer affect the operation of that, but I also can't see how it'd change, given it is currently absolutely not functional at all and there's no wiring to the motor right now.

Hi Folks. Wondering if anyone has heard anything like this before. Head is a RB25DETNeo and this tapping happens just for a minute or two after starting Hot OR Cold. There are no unusual sounds otherwise. It sounds to me that it's similar to a SR20DET VCT rattle, however while this sounds like it is in the same area, it happens if the VCT solenoid is unplugged. I don't know if this will actually affect things, if the issue is internally mechanical and not solenoid. There's not a lot of info on VCT rattle on RB25DET's. I have blocked off one oil feed to the head to combat blowby in the past. Note: This happens at about ~1500-2000 rpm. It will rattle once, or twice, and the car can rev past it fine. I.e, if you revved to 4k you may hear 1-2 taps while it revs through, but it always appears at that range. Note: If you rev the car slowly through the rev range after starting, this does not happen. You don't need a ton of throttle, but if you stab it or stand on it it'll happen, it will not happen if you say hold throttle at 10% and slowly rev through the range. The sound appears to be coming from the intake cam, from what seems to be just under the throttle body. Again, hot or cold, doesn't matter. Will hear it for about a minute of driving and it'll fade away pretty quick. Leaving the car idling does help if you leave it idle for ~2 minutes etc. No weird sounds under load at all. Car otherwise drives fine. From what I can tell, if you leave the car sitting for maybe 5? minutes, the sound will return on re-start. A little less than it would if the car is left overnight, but not much. Could be related (maybe not) but VCT has only just actually been switched on/wired in recently. Could be piston slap. Could be wrong oil, (5-40, was 10-60 in the past) could be something else entirely. Sound does not appear to be getting any worse since I noticed it (couple of weeks). May have always been there, because the car was previously auto and any throttle will go well over 3k RPM where there's no sound and no load. Any hints as to what this could actually be given the above info? Looking to know where to begin, or whether to begin at all if this is actually a common thing people don't talk about.

It's almost like it's an addictive drug

Nothing, and I mean no turbo in the world can spool up quite like an automatic gearbox will do it with a decent stall converter. Going manual has certainly taken the buzz out of my EFR as everything seems laggy comparatively. Until you want to take a corner and all is forgiven.

Nah no alignment. Wasn't my car either lol, dhf tyres in hallam if down that way. Wasn't 3+1 however, one day I'll go to Costco and actually ask them to price match on re71r or PS4 or pilot sport cups, while I get fat on hotdogs there.

Where were they from? Did think about going Bridgestone or Michelin for dat Costco discount. FYI though, RSRR in 255/40/17 are something like $700 fitted for 4.