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Kinkstaah

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Everything posted by Kinkstaah

  1. Kinkstaah
    Coilpacks and Loom now sold!
  2. Kinkstaah
    I have had a 6boost and 45mm and 50mm gate in the past, with a 3076, 7670 etc. Never had creep, so not entirely sure what is going on there, but that setup should be able to hold a nice low boost if you want it to, it is certainly not 'normal'
  3. Kinkstaah
    Do it, film the results if you survive.
  4. Kinkstaah
    fuark. Thanks admins for merging all my intended to be seperate threads. Whether I forgot to put prices on them I am unsure as they were all copied and pasted from Gumtree. Prices: Injectors + Fuel Rail + Apexi FPR + Injector loom/plugs = 600 Coilpacks + Coilpack loom = $450 EFR Kit = $4999 Gearbox and Clutch = $3000
  5. Kinkstaah
    Good Ramen and Pho are awesome. Ichiran ramen in Tokyo is one of the best meals I've ever had, my god it was amazing. However bad ramen and pho are..... not so good, and its not like you can tell before you go into a new place unless someone trusted (like VWL) has recommended it ?
  6. Kinkstaah
    Splitfire Coilpacks for RB25DET Neo.Part (DIS-008)Comes with near-new coilpack loom purchased a recently.Coilpacks themselves are ~3 months old. Selling because sold the motor that they were in. Work perfectly, still have the box in good condition too if you're interested in that kind of thing.Located in Glen Waverley, Melbourne
  7. Kinkstaah
    So you want a high mount turbo and 400KW. Stop looking at turbos and buy this. You're going to need all of it to get going anyway. You're going to need to get shit fabricated. Buy this instead. Save your time and money.Kit includes:1x Borg Warner EFR 7670 1.05 T4 Twinscroll Turbo1x 6boost T4 Twinscroll manifold, ceramic coated black1x 50mm Genuine Turbosmart External wastegate1x Set of Braided lines from the boost solenoid (built in!) to the external gate. Already plumbed up correctly so you don't have to get confused.1x Dump pipe, front pipe, and Cat, with provisions for a Wideband O2 Sensor in a sensible location so it doesn't fkin die in 3 months.1x Screamer pipe, running well under the car. You could join these to plumb them back easily. I did.1x Set of Speedflow lines and fittings. Don't buy a cheap kit. Don't buy a cheap kit. Don't buy a cheap kit. DON'T BUY A CHEAP LINES KIT. I almost melted my car to the ground with a cheap lines kit. I then got this kit, which is all solidly mounted, away from things that melt or crack or will move under load. Don't buy a cheap lines kit.1x Pod filter, and metal intake.1x Pre-Loved Blitz SE Intercooler which requires no cutting and uses stock holes in the chassis for piping.1x Turbine outlet pipe to intercooler, and charge pipe to throttle with provisions for Air temp, stock power steering nippleComes with all the joiners and hose clamps and fkin bolts and random bits of crap you would otherwise be running to Autobarn for and trying to make fit.Remove OEM turbo side. Bolt everything here onto your RB25. Enjoy the best turbo money can buy. Just add fuel and ECU Smarts.Yes it all does work, no, the piping doesn't cause lag, no the intercooler flows this more than fine. No you don't need more power, you'll blow up your motor, or have too much lag, or have no grip.Do the math, then buy this and be happy with your life choices! No more thinking about how you'll make it work. This works. ps, yes the flex joint is beat up a bit. No, it doesn't leak, seriously ?
  8. Kinkstaah
    Set of 6 Delphi/Xspurt Ethanol injectors for a RB25DET Neo (originally purchased new from Scotty)Comes with Fuel rail!Comes with injector loom and plugs, pre-plugged and ready to go!Comes with Apexi adjustable fuel pressure regulator!Never had any issues, injectors are MADE for E85 as opposed to being "E85 Compatible". Injectors will still happily run 98 as well, and were doing so most recently.Located Glen Waverley, Melbourne.
  9. Kinkstaah
    R33 GTST Gearbox and Nismo Super Coppermix Twinplate clutch kit R33 GTST / RB25DET Gearbox from Nissan Skyline. Had in car ~6 months, had no issues whatsoever shifting, grinding, popping out of gear, exploding, etc etc etc but did only have few months. Removed as engine also removed from car.Drives and sounds like any R33 GTST gearbox that I have personally ever seen.Has new (nismo lol) pivot ball. New OEM slave cylinder too, and a non 18 year old dust boot and crossmember, and new gearbox mount.Nismo Twin plate super coppermix clutch kit with lightened flywheel. Also near new, driven about 10,000kms. These things last many many years of abuse, never received really any abuse as engine/gearbox now out of car. Will hold 450 rwkw, and drive like a clutch that won't make you hate life and can drive daily EASILY$3000 for both, will be $3200 if you make me seperate them. Located Glen Waverley, Melbourne.
  10. Kinkstaah
    You could do something like an EFR7163, but you'd be limited to running such low boost to stop it murdering itself up top that it'd really be hard to argue that it's a good idea..... Alternatively, buy my turbo setup! Note: nothing short of stupid is going to move it 1000rpm earlier though.
  11. Kinkstaah
    Both donuts are pretty Shitful, especially Daniels. Like for real, its the same Donut with slightly different toppings. Also unfortunately contract cancer every time I go near there due to the complete abominations in the parking lot, and their equally cancer-causing owners. f***
  12. Kinkstaah
    The GTR gives you an advantage for the first 4 seconds. For the rest of the lap or twisty mountain road then it's a heavy traction control system that may or may not be in use. And it costs you $50K extra. (in this specific example I tested) Yes if you are especially enjoying 1st gear then the GTR will be better. I find that this is approximately 0.00001% of my enthusiast driving in the real world or on the track though.
  13. Kinkstaah
    You don't need the GTR. A setup GTT/GTST will do what you want before lag becomes too big of an obstacle. GTR is only worth having if you have 600kw and that's entirely different animal when it comes to keeping it running and paying for it to get going to begin with. IMO. Source: Drove a Racepace 2.8 R33 gtr with 400kw, Legitimately preferred mine. You do notice the difference back to back, not to mention the likely 100K cost of this particular car. The only thing you can't really do is 8k launches. Birds is known to do this to beat Merc A45's so his mileage may vary.
  14. Kinkstaah
    Would you consider selling 2? I need 2. How about shipping?
  15. Kinkstaah
    Has this ever been done as an example as to when to turn it on? I had always heard it comes "on" at loads just above idle, i.e ~1200rpm with 'some' load. But above posts insinuate it actually can/should come on at about 3000rpm and off at 5400rpm? Anyone done a dyno with it on/off between 1000rpm and 3000rpm?
  16. Kinkstaah
    The difference in my case (i.e I'm the only one who went smaller and has no desire to go bigger) 1) Need to go from a 1 pump fuel system to a 2 pump system at 450kw+ 2) Blowing up gearboxes is a risk 3) Blowing up motors is a risk "Safe 350kw' is a long way from 'Safe 500kw' 4) Grip (RWD) 5) Lag (RWD) 6) Daily driven Clutches start becoming painful 7) Don't have 1000 more RPM to play with like a 26. Maybe I do because solid head, but I'll stay close to factory rev limit which is still 1000rpm lower. The most effiecient max power on BW Matchbot is a 9174 or 9180 to run 30psi through a motor like yours or mine. These according to BW, make in the region of 850hp. Do you want to make 630kw once, or do you want to make 630kw through 150 hot laps every other weekend? IMO that is the decision process regarding selecting any turbo really.
  17. Kinkstaah
    For your setup I would recommend the 8374. Mine is a RB25 based RB28 from the neo. I still have a redline of 7000RPM and RWD. I have the 1.05 twin scroll rear. You have a RB26 based motor, which I would assume you plan on revving to 8000rpm. Most RB26 people don't have VCT so the 8374 is great. They and you also have AWD. I don't personally think there's a huge difference in spool (or power) between them. That said, mine may be getting close to the limit on the upper end of 430kw. I don't have a speed sensor to test, but absolutely would if I was going to spin it that far. I run about 18psi and make 395rwkw, 12psi will get me 329kw, but that info is in the dyno sheet. The BW Matchbot shows me very bad things if I put 25psi into it, hence not going to push my luck without a speed sensor. Is the 7670 and a 2.8 and VCT a transient response monster? I'm happy enough with it that I want to pull the motor and turbo out and put something else in there. Still feels like a full second between WOT and boost coming back in a scenario where you'd otherwise be off throttle. I'd be keen to see those numbers side by side running that test actually. It is however pretty nice from part throttle. But on a 26 in a GTR, make use of the AWD and the 8000rpm redline. The 7670 will nose over anyway if you plan to push it, which everyone does. Obviously it won't if you run 10psi and aim at 300kw with it, but I doubt that is the plan.
  18. Kinkstaah
    All of that will have tiny, marginal gains. Want response? Change the turbo or change displacement. (i.e 3L but availability could be hard there!) They are by far the best, easiest ways of getting response and in the real world also the most cost effective.
  19. Kinkstaah
    See above. I don't personally give it any more than 25% throttle until oil temp is 70C and Water temp is at thermostat temp, which in my car is 78-80C. On the track I've not had oil temp go much over 100-103 after/during a full session with 400kw, but this is with a 25row oil cooler. I would back off at 130C prior to getting an oil cooler, and obviously decided to get an oil cooler. At the same track, Water temp will get up to/around 95 or so. I now start getting nervous if any temperature gauge has a number in three figures. I have warnings/cutoffs/engine protection set at a) Any AFR above 12.5 with boost above 3psi for more than 100ms. b) Oil or Water temp over 120C. That is a (very rough) set of examples for you.
  20. Kinkstaah
    If that is a full WOT pull, from the entirety of the video (i.e not backing off) and boost is dropping into massive vaccum like that, I'd be putting my money on that stock silicon hose sucking shut. Especially given you said it runs fine on stock boost...
  21. Kinkstaah
    Unfortunately not really as I would certainly die attempting to use such a bike, and as I know zero about bikes I'd have to sell it like a complete n00b in any case.
  22. Kinkstaah
    Looking for 10K in current state. As always, tests welcome!
  23. Kinkstaah
    How exactly are you trying to tune it out? By "tune it out" do you mean you have a fully adjustable ECU that you are tuning with, or is this car running stock engine management?
  24. Kinkstaah
    ^---- this was my experience at my first Driver Dynamics day at Sandown. The instructors attempted to drive my car and went 45 degree sideways on 3 different corners, got out and said "Good luck" yep
  25. Kinkstaah
    This engine is still running strong for 25,000kms since I posted this. Do you want a reliable forged motor for less than half of what it would cost you, about fifteen times faster than doing it yourself? How much assurance do you reckon you will get from old mate building your motor over the course of two years, for 20K? Buy this instead. It works.
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