Jump to content
SAU Community

Kinkstaah

Members
  • Posts

    3,580
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    63
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Kinkstaah

  1. Unfortunately not really as I would certainly die attempting to use such a bike, and as I know zero about bikes I'd have to sell it like a complete n00b in any case.
  2. Looking for 10K in current state. As always, tests welcome!
  3. How exactly are you trying to tune it out? By "tune it out" do you mean you have a fully adjustable ECU that you are tuning with, or is this car running stock engine management?
  4. ^---- this was my experience at my first Driver Dynamics day at Sandown. The instructors attempted to drive my car and went 45 degree sideways on 3 different corners, got out and said "Good luck" yep
  5. This engine is still running strong for 25,000kms since I posted this. Do you want a reliable forged motor for less than half of what it would cost you, about fifteen times faster than doing it yourself? How much assurance do you reckon you will get from old mate building your motor over the course of two years, for 20K? Buy this instead. It works.
  6. I both appreciate and hate that the entries fill so close to the event date. I wouldn't book a track day any earlier than maybe 3-4 days in advance purely due to weather concerns (and never knowing if car is actually not going to imminently explode) Looks to be a good day though!
  7. I was in Dingley and unfortunately my 34 was not stolen Get insurance people, but breaking into a house to steal shit is another level of nightmare. Cars are cars, but people who break into other people's houses absolutely should get shafted hard by the law.
  8. History: 3076 auto result GTX3582 Auto result: BW EFR7670 Manual Result Manual now, and manual is way laggier than the auto ever was (and it shows in the dyno) 12psi and 18psi runs both on E85. 98 is only about ~10kw behind as the timing is pretty conservative on both runs and it's not knock limited on 98. Why so low boost? Misfire central at anything above 18, and the boost control isn't exactly steady as I have a 9psi spring in the gate. If I could spare about $2k it would get R35 GTR coils and 7psi more spring to see what it could do, but in all honesty being RWD on street tyres it is lively enough as it is, and best to show some mercy to the gearbox. Now someone just needs to buy it
  9. Well, after checking about seventy million things this was actually a badly warped 6boost manifold. It was 0.5mm out at the front, and 1mm out at the back, and quite twisted. I also had 3 broken studs, but as everything was tight I checked everything else under the sun first. No more ticky ticky now, and my wallet is much lighter given this also resulted in all the turbo lines being re-engineered as well as a lot of melted wiring from offensively hot exhaust gas going where it wasn't supposed to be. I only really twigged when I put 98 in the car instead of E85 and could immediately smell the fumes. Start at the simple stuff, future googlers!
  10. The building only truly begins once the "build" is completed.
  11. People forget that buying a finished project car isn't missing out of the fun of a project car. The "fun" of a project car is keeping it running and trying to use it. There's more work in keeping it running than there EVER is in building it. Buy Jussi's car and be happy /Thread
  12. Offset? How big brakes are we talking here? 356mm brakes?
  13. They look fine. Maybe the red line (high boost) could stand to be a little leaner Maybe the black line (low boost) could stand to be a little richer But in the real world, these are fine and go enjoy the car
  14. I personally would prefer wider rears over the wider front, start on that side of the car makes for a better looking car
  15. Just check it's flat before you put it on (i.e, machine it). I had "fun" with mine not being flat, and I had to drill out the holes for the manifold studs to get it to sit on. A few months later I had to replace three broken studs, the whole thing was twisted, and warped 0.5mm at the front and 1mm at the rear. Mine was a T4 TS variant. Check it or get it checked before you put it on (should check any manifold before putting it on really!)
  16. Yeah you'll only save in time. Ultimately unless you are DIY'ing yourself you have to trust someone external to you anyway. Whether thats the seller (who is usually another customer) you're still trusting *a* machine shopt or *a* builder whether you deal with them directly or indirectly. I'd personally prefer a motor that's done ~25,000kms and a few track days/many dyno runs and is still holding together just fine like mineeee... over one freshly built anyway. Reputation tends to matter a lot with these things. In 2018 it's really hard not to argue just ordering a RIPS RB30 bottom end as soon as you buy any R chassis and have it ready to go and it'll be all you need.
  17. lol I'll sell you my 2.8 with VCT for far far far far less than that one on FB. RB26 tax is absurd.
  18. Without changing turbo or intercooler? There is no way.
  19. Well there we go. This is what a 9.5 +27 looks at the front of a 34 with a pulled guard. This is wih a 265 tyre and is about 0.1mm from rubbing on everything on lock. I've lowered it a touch since then, but it's pretty easy to see that there's no way +15mm is going to fit in that guard. I always flirt with re-shelling the car (as opposed to painting). Looks like the R33 GTST got a few more points in that regard Sorry to hijack thread - There's a lot of info on SAU that suggest fitment for R33 GTST and R34 GTT is so identical it's almost "the same", clearly it isn't!
  20. Still doesn't really seem possible, I had a full roll, and pull, and semi-flare to get 18x9.5 +27 at the front. Those wheels are a full 15mm further out than what I have up the front of a 34. And mine sits like this: Guess I'm off to get a R33 then, the geometry isn't as close as people tend to say it is here!
  21. They also seem to be pretty crazy numbers, cause if real then it's time to re-shell into a R33 GTST instead of a R34, especially the front.
  22. Cheers, helps contextualize the times. My eyebrows were raised looking at the times if a AD08R was considered 'semi slick' which sometimes it does get categorized as!
  23. Change your diff settings. Most of the cars have default diff settings of full lock on decel, and partial lock on acceleration. This completely changes how the cars actually drive around, or put on the viscous diff option. The Skylines then drive like Skylines, though I can understand why you'd want locking on decel to overcome understeer on a race car on a road chassis if you're a skilled actual racing driver, I clearly am not
  24. What is considered a "Street Tyre" and "Semi Slick" for the classes there?
  25. +1 for SL Customs. I actually went out there to ask questions about front bumpers and honestly his pricing was pretty damn reasonable for the competency he was showing. Definitely worth a call/chat if you can book in advance.
×
×
  • Create New...