Kinkstaah

It is worth mentioning that when people talk about OMG SO GOOD SO MUCH DIFFERENT it's rarely and apples to apples comparison. Either setup will do fine, and these are minor handling differences which can be preferential at best when comparing known 'good' options. I drove my car back to back with the same model car with BC BR's in it, and honestly other than some feel, I can see that it realistically would have performed the same or very very similar. it's not like we are all going to crack it cause we saved $1000 and did a 1:31.1 at the track instead of 1:31.0. Were the BC BR's harsher, did they have a little more roll? Sure. Was this due to other things like bushes in being in better or worse condition in either car? Possibly. Were they a hell of a lot less expensive? Absolutely. I say the differences in all forms of aftermarket suspension are subtle. You will like the MCA's.

I did not, though have heard great things about CTSV kits in general and had thought about converting to them one day, as the pad size in these things is massive, way, way, way, way bigger than the D2/Ksport/Attakd 356mm kit I currently have. Alpha Omega did a kit for the S15 but don't do it anymore..

I also have a similar kit and have had them for years - Though I went for a more uprated version with harder springs and received 5/4KG springs initially and later bought 8/6 springs and used those later. The car rode and drove really well relative to any other 34 I ever had a chance to drive in and Shockworks at the time's test car was also a R34 and they admitted defeat along the lines of not selling me their kit due to me unlikely to get any benefit at all from their product over what I have. Bilstein Australia (based in Sydney at Heasmans) will also rebuild/revalve the shock to suit if you like which is something I am going to do because one of them is weeping after a few years, and I have somewhat drastically changed the car to the point where revalving may be sensible... (i.e there is no RB in it anymore). plus the fact mine were originally done by SK to suit 5/4 springs to begin with. Bilstein AU were nice enough to communicate and ask me to get the car weighted so they can advise whether they even should valve to suit, and I tend to like companies that try to save you money when you ask them for a service. Other brands when approached with the same question were far less forthcoming.... i.e "Just buy our most expensive thing you'll be fine" etc. I have not tried MCA's myself, and was looking into them but after chatting to bilstein its far more cost effective to get them serviced and revalved then selling and changing brands considering I and everyone that ever drove the car really liked how the Bilstein/Eibach combo worked in real world and on the track. For reference the Eibach springs I got/have are: ERS Y/X ERS-H-200-60-0050 ERS Y/X ERS-H-200-60-0040 Replaced with: ERS Y/X ERS-H-200-60-0080 ERS Y/X ERS-H-200-60-0060 If you really want you can buy the 5/4 combo I have as they're sitting around unlikely to ever be used again, if you wanted something 'better' than King springs, Eibachs are also an option.

The rinseless wash stuff feels like magic when you use it though. Now I don't know about the chemicals but the claim is that it breaks the bonds down between the paint and the dirt itself. It "feels" like it dissolves it instead of wiping it off. So quite often you will spray something stubborn and it wipes right off, which is... skeptical. Things do exist for bug stuff though - Pretty much the hardest things that exist to clean off a car really is good ol dried up splatters after going for a drive in the country. That said, the rinseless wash stuff is often regarded to as "the wash between washes" so to speak. The bonus is if you do it once a week it literally takes ~5 minutes. Hasn't really been in use long enough yet for someone to say "I did this once a week for 10 years and this is what happened to my paint" yet.

Buy my Nismo one. It's turbo back though.

I would also say "600hp on stock internals I just want to get it running while I am saving up for XYZ" is a disaster waiting to happen. People absolutely have made 350-400kw on stock internals, for 'years' but lets be real here, you'd only want to be doing that if you already have a budget and ideally a second motor/rebuilt motor purchased, and ready to swap in the day it all goes bang. The old adage re: GTR's and "Buy a GTR, have budget for rebuild to happen" does also apply to the RB25's of all variants too.

There's also the waterless wash and wax stuff. Depending on how much you trust the science behind it it may be an option. Seeing people use it on Ferraris and Porsches for years has made me believe it works fine for my 34.. /prepares to be brutally murdered

This thread is a perfect example of "If you want information, go online and post the wrong answer" The rest of the answers from everyone except OP are pretty goldmine-esque.

In my case, either. It's almost* always worth going the larger housing. I would definitely go the larger housing especially moreso if you're going to have to get the welder out to make the smaller housing work.

I have an Auto 34 GTT ECU, which I can confirm works with a manual, as my car was manual. It still is manual, but it also was manual. NFI if the loom/plug pins are the same/work. If they do, this will work.

Also if the car is N/A I would wager the N/A pump could live with the N/A Wiring. This was really more of a mod for aftermarket pumps that really wanted (needed) a direct 14v.

If anything, someone who wants to keep the car to make sure they do a good job is the person you'd rather trust. In the grand scheme of things, the car is not extensively modified. You're more likely to blow the motor up driving the damn thing hard than in controlled situations like any decent dyno operator will have on a dyno. You did say overly paranoid. Try to be less of that, or at least recognize you are being overly paranoid. "Car is cold" Car shouldn't be on boost when "car is cold" Do you mean full boost when car is warm but it's 20C outside, vs same conditions but a 45C day when it's hot as f**k?

To get a tune right, like fully, fully, fully, OEM-Spec right, will take many days and many minor adjustments. Like Dose Pipe said, it's not that people are terrible tuners if they can't tune a car perfectly in 2-3 hours, it actually takes a lot of time to get all the niggles and weird shit behaviour out of cars when you tune them. Having it multiple days means they can experience (and tune/fix) many of the drivability things that occur while driving a car that is not 40-200kmh pulls at full throttle.

Also +1 for buy Nismo twinplate, job done, forever. Will obviously bolt up to the standard R34 configuration :p. You can buy a clutch rated for 309kw when you have 300kw, or you can get one rated for 450+kw when you have 300kw. The Nismo twinplate is easier to drive than everything else listed here. It is also more expensive. ?

You can put it there, but the lines would be much longer back to the oil block/filter, plus don't you have any intercooler pipes going through that region at all? Almost every FMIC still uses at least one of those holes for piping... There IS more room there though, I recently relocated mine for unrelated reasons and the washer bottle isn't in the way. Thermo fan shouldn't really be needed for an oil cooler, because usually when your oil is hot you would/should/will have a huge amount of airflow slamming into the cooler, way more than any fan as you're probably at 7000rpm at 150+kmh. Your oil won't be overheating sitting in traffic idling which is where a thermo fan would have an advantage. Unless of course your ducting/airflow path is really bad to the cooler and you need the extra help of a fan sucking/blowing accordingly but this really shouldn't be a problem when it comes to mounting an oil cooler to the front of a GTT. I used mesh to cover the holes in the grill for FMIC/Oil coolers and you can barely see anything. Also stops larger debris smashing into things directly.

There's actually a fairly reasonable argument that "Dangerous to the driver only" isn't a valid reason - Mainly because when you end up a vegetable from hitting a tree, this impacts and costs society to deal with you, and people like you that think it was good idea to do skids in an industrial lot and meet a light pole on intimate terms. Or replace an airbag steering wheel with a fully sick copy china item etc etc etc. Typically speaking though, modding cars never really hurt anyone, including the drivers.

Sorry, didn't specifically mean that GTSBoy was insinuating that water temp = oil temp, but it is seen enough doing a search that I thought I'd clarify. Doing normal driving or even moderately spirited driving it's pretty accurate though. Track is another story and 140+ happens within 2 laps which can be a little bit shit if you're really going after the track. If moving the oil cooler means your oil temp is 100 instead of 120, I would argue its well worth doing, even if 120C oil is really probably going to be quite OK given oil quality in 2019. But 100 is still better than 120 ?

The G25's are vband aren't they? Is it feasible to have a vband welded onto a stock manifold? EFR would be great in a T3 internal gated option. Given you have confirmation they fit, its well worth it if you are taking aim at 280kw. I would wager the 7670 is a bit big for that, but it gives you plenty of headroom and there's really nothing wrong with running a turbo at 80% instead of 99.99999%. If the 7064 makes the power then really thats another option. Having owned an EFR then I can't say you'll be disappointed moving up to that from a older 2530. You'll be very very happy indeed.

I had/have a 25 row oil cooler in a 34 that is mounted in the driver side but now moved to passenger side (as I have no piping on passenger side anymore). My oil temps were under 100C (99, 98 etc) after 10 hot laps in a full session. Prior to that like you have seen, 130-150 in 2-3 hot laps was pretty common. Unlike the above I'd wager if the oil gauge has gone from 150C to showing 120C then it's probably (somewhat?) accurate. I however had two oil temp sensors and a standalone water temp sensor. The water temp and oil temp do NOT coincide with one another even remotely before you have an oil cooler. Pre oil cooler I would have water at 95-100 and oil at 150C. After the cooler they were much closer together. Having aftermarket gauges made me realise that "Eh if the water temp is OK then oil temp is OK too" is not accurate, at least for my car.

7163 would be a goer. All the efr series need a t3->t4 adapter of some kind. Perhaps that can be done with the G series, they are physically much smaller too.

Honestly can't think of a better turbo I'd be bolting into the stock location for those goals.

... do they not start with RB25, RB20, RB30? That was why I stuck around with a 2.8 for years as opposed to just going 3L. Maybe it is a SA thing but here in VIC the full number is registered.

18x9.5 won't fit in +30, you will run VERY close to hitting the inner suspension. I had 18x9.5 +27 and man I needed those extra 3 mm. 18x9 +35 will fit, will be further in and may not need a guard roll. 18x9 +30 is probably the benchmark in terms of wheel orientation with "flush with the guards". Would need rolling to fit depending on your width of tyre on said 9in rim.

I would prefer a 7670 with 1.05 vs a 8374 with a .92. You very rarely regret going the larger rear, the harder you drive the car the more you will appreciate having some extra breathing room with the turbine housing. Note: Either turbo is well into the category of "driven hard". Get the 1.05, go EWG. It will be a healthier result even if the boost comes on 100rpm later, it will be a better thing to drive.

If you contact Tao ask him if he can source a RB20 turbo for you (for the additional cost). He may give you a rebate when you return your turbo to him. He also may choose to not do those things. I realise we are in a thread by him, about his products where he posted 3 posts ago, but send him a PM as he is very responsive to them.