Kinkstaah

Buy my Nismo one. It's turbo back though.

I would also say "600hp on stock internals I just want to get it running while I am saving up for XYZ" is a disaster waiting to happen. People absolutely have made 350-400kw on stock internals, for 'years' but lets be real here, you'd only want to be doing that if you already have a budget and ideally a second motor/rebuilt motor purchased, and ready to swap in the day it all goes bang. The old adage re: GTR's and "Buy a GTR, have budget for rebuild to happen" does also apply to the RB25's of all variants too.

There's also the waterless wash and wax stuff. Depending on how much you trust the science behind it it may be an option. Seeing people use it on Ferraris and Porsches for years has made me believe it works fine for my 34.. /prepares to be brutally murdered

This thread is a perfect example of "If you want information, go online and post the wrong answer" The rest of the answers from everyone except OP are pretty goldmine-esque.

In my case, either. It's almost* always worth going the larger housing. I would definitely go the larger housing especially moreso if you're going to have to get the welder out to make the smaller housing work.

I have an Auto 34 GTT ECU, which I can confirm works with a manual, as my car was manual. It still is manual, but it also was manual. NFI if the loom/plug pins are the same/work. If they do, this will work.

Also if the car is N/A I would wager the N/A pump could live with the N/A Wiring. This was really more of a mod for aftermarket pumps that really wanted (needed) a direct 14v.

If anything, someone who wants to keep the car to make sure they do a good job is the person you'd rather trust. In the grand scheme of things, the car is not extensively modified. You're more likely to blow the motor up driving the damn thing hard than in controlled situations like any decent dyno operator will have on a dyno. You did say overly paranoid. Try to be less of that, or at least recognize you are being overly paranoid. "Car is cold" Car shouldn't be on boost when "car is cold" Do you mean full boost when car is warm but it's 20C outside, vs same conditions but a 45C day when it's hot as f**k?

To get a tune right, like fully, fully, fully, OEM-Spec right, will take many days and many minor adjustments. Like Dose Pipe said, it's not that people are terrible tuners if they can't tune a car perfectly in 2-3 hours, it actually takes a lot of time to get all the niggles and weird shit behaviour out of cars when you tune them. Having it multiple days means they can experience (and tune/fix) many of the drivability things that occur while driving a car that is not 40-200kmh pulls at full throttle.

Also +1 for buy Nismo twinplate, job done, forever. Will obviously bolt up to the standard R34 configuration :p. You can buy a clutch rated for 309kw when you have 300kw, or you can get one rated for 450+kw when you have 300kw. The Nismo twinplate is easier to drive than everything else listed here. It is also more expensive. ?

You can put it there, but the lines would be much longer back to the oil block/filter, plus don't you have any intercooler pipes going through that region at all? Almost every FMIC still uses at least one of those holes for piping... There IS more room there though, I recently relocated mine for unrelated reasons and the washer bottle isn't in the way. Thermo fan shouldn't really be needed for an oil cooler, because usually when your oil is hot you would/should/will have a huge amount of airflow slamming into the cooler, way more than any fan as you're probably at 7000rpm at 150+kmh. Your oil won't be overheating sitting in traffic idling which is where a thermo fan would have an advantage. Unless of course your ducting/airflow path is really bad to the cooler and you need the extra help of a fan sucking/blowing accordingly but this really shouldn't be a problem when it comes to mounting an oil cooler to the front of a GTT. I used mesh to cover the holes in the grill for FMIC/Oil coolers and you can barely see anything. Also stops larger debris smashing into things directly.

There's actually a fairly reasonable argument that "Dangerous to the driver only" isn't a valid reason - Mainly because when you end up a vegetable from hitting a tree, this impacts and costs society to deal with you, and people like you that think it was good idea to do skids in an industrial lot and meet a light pole on intimate terms. Or replace an airbag steering wheel with a fully sick copy china item etc etc etc. Typically speaking though, modding cars never really hurt anyone, including the drivers.

Sorry, didn't specifically mean that GTSBoy was insinuating that water temp = oil temp, but it is seen enough doing a search that I thought I'd clarify. Doing normal driving or even moderately spirited driving it's pretty accurate though. Track is another story and 140+ happens within 2 laps which can be a little bit shit if you're really going after the track. If moving the oil cooler means your oil temp is 100 instead of 120, I would argue its well worth doing, even if 120C oil is really probably going to be quite OK given oil quality in 2019. But 100 is still better than 120 ?

The G25's are vband aren't they? Is it feasible to have a vband welded onto a stock manifold? EFR would be great in a T3 internal gated option. Given you have confirmation they fit, its well worth it if you are taking aim at 280kw. I would wager the 7670 is a bit big for that, but it gives you plenty of headroom and there's really nothing wrong with running a turbo at 80% instead of 99.99999%. If the 7064 makes the power then really thats another option. Having owned an EFR then I can't say you'll be disappointed moving up to that from a older 2530. You'll be very very happy indeed.

I had/have a 25 row oil cooler in a 34 that is mounted in the driver side but now moved to passenger side (as I have no piping on passenger side anymore). My oil temps were under 100C (99, 98 etc) after 10 hot laps in a full session. Prior to that like you have seen, 130-150 in 2-3 hot laps was pretty common. Unlike the above I'd wager if the oil gauge has gone from 150C to showing 120C then it's probably (somewhat?) accurate. I however had two oil temp sensors and a standalone water temp sensor. The water temp and oil temp do NOT coincide with one another even remotely before you have an oil cooler. Pre oil cooler I would have water at 95-100 and oil at 150C. After the cooler they were much closer together. Having aftermarket gauges made me realise that "Eh if the water temp is OK then oil temp is OK too" is not accurate, at least for my car.

7163 would be a goer. All the efr series need a t3->t4 adapter of some kind. Perhaps that can be done with the G series, they are physically much smaller too.

Honestly can't think of a better turbo I'd be bolting into the stock location for those goals.

... do they not start with RB25, RB20, RB30? That was why I stuck around with a 2.8 for years as opposed to just going 3L. Maybe it is a SA thing but here in VIC the full number is registered.

18x9.5 won't fit in +30, you will run VERY close to hitting the inner suspension. I had 18x9.5 +27 and man I needed those extra 3 mm. 18x9 +35 will fit, will be further in and may not need a guard roll. 18x9 +30 is probably the benchmark in terms of wheel orientation with "flush with the guards". Would need rolling to fit depending on your width of tyre on said 9in rim.

I would prefer a 7670 with 1.05 vs a 8374 with a .92. You very rarely regret going the larger rear, the harder you drive the car the more you will appreciate having some extra breathing room with the turbine housing. Note: Either turbo is well into the category of "driven hard". Get the 1.05, go EWG. It will be a healthier result even if the boost comes on 100rpm later, it will be a better thing to drive.

If you contact Tao ask him if he can source a RB20 turbo for you (for the additional cost). He may give you a rebate when you return your turbo to him. He also may choose to not do those things. I realise we are in a thread by him, about his products where he posted 3 posts ago, but send him a PM as he is very responsive to them.

These cars are just dreadful for a P plater for many reasons. a) Slow if N/A b) Slow stock as turbo nowdays c) Old d) Prob not the safest thing e) Illegal to drive f) Expensive g) Unreliable Everyone involved will be disappointed going down this path.

The thing is, ultimately if "I have to get a dump pipe/exhaust fabricated" removes the thing from being a viable choice... then sad to say it/budget is not ready. The rest of it requires far far more time, money and thought than the dump pipe fitting up. "Just get a dump made up" is about as much as anyone thinks about this particular issue because it is a 1 second throwaway, obvious answer at no/minimal cost. I get that it may be harder to obtain in the USA or find a fabricator where you are, but that just means all the more expensive, more complicated stuff is going to be equally hard or harder to find.

You almost never get better results (or results that are worth it) from cutting any corner ever in a turbo setup. If making a dump pipe up is too expensive/hard/unfeasible due to cost the best answer is wait, or get a highflow turbo made up and shipped by Hypergear (though I am not sure what he suggests for a RB20DET).

If 98 is a restriction than that kind of power with "no worse than current" response is impossible. That said, something 8374 sized is going to be a minimum requirement if 98 is a must have. With an 8k rev limit the 8374 is going to be my vote too. I had a 7670 on a 2.8 and it was nosing over up top at about 6800rpm. This was OK for me as mine was a RB25 based 2.8, not a RB26 based motor. This may or may not be perfect if you prefer revving to 7500 instead of 8500 depending on the kind of RB26 owner you are ? To be on the safe side of everything I would be thinking something 8374 sized is likely the best compromise of running things with safe overheads.