Kinkstaah

I say buy the turbo next year, and get the ECU now. Either way, you won't be getting the benefits of "more power than now" without a tune or new ecu AND the turbo itself. May even be able to save money on the Turbo itself, get a Hiflow turbo instead and an ECU as a package. Assuming it currently has a well tuned stock turbo on it currently. What turbo is currently there and what is 'good power' in that context?

Dunno about laws in QLD, but that combo would be impossible to rego in Vic (older engine in newer car) without some hefty engineering costs. Generally (generally!) speaking the NA gear is good enough to handle the STOCK output of turbo motors. More generally speaking think longer term owning the car and ask yourself is this a can of worms you want to get into? It'd usually be smarter to save a little more and get something with less potential headaches going forward.

Everything is interconnected. Gratitude for things in life improves sleep. Sleep reduces pain. Reduced pain improves your mood. Improved mood reduces anxiety, which improves focus and planning. Focus and planning help with decision making. Decision making further reduces anxiety and improves enjoyment. Enjoyment gives you more to be grateful for, which keeps that loop of the upward spiral going. Men (and really, all people) beginning to talk openly about depression, anxiety, and realising it affects everyone in not-so-obvious ways is one of the best trends going around too. Probably beats out the fact that Women looking good is now a fitness question, instead of a 90's rail thin Kate Moss thing, which happened along the way too. The biggest takeaway I have found through my own ups and downs is - You don't know you're depressed. You just see the world through a lens that twists what you see, hear and feel. Even happy, stable people should talk about their mental state and get a checkup. Think of it like servicing a well running car.

If my car doesn't explode at Winton on Friday then oh hell yes. However: The link you posted redirects here When going to the link manually, the event is full and you have to join the waitlist (:() Also:

They are the same. Just remember the rear will poke 5mm more than the front due to the 10mm wider rear track, but that is also the same with the coupe. Only an issue if you run 4x of the same wheel.

I am tempted to get a gopro under there to get and figure out what is going on! I will adjust the pineapples to just see.. but it is good to know that that isn't the cause at least. I don't know If the run in procedure needs to run. Given I bought it 2nd hand, couldn't possibly still need a run in? I assumed simply driving on the damn thing for thousands and thousands of km would do that right? Did buy it used back in the day...

Appreciate the comments, I should add more info I get I shouldn't need additives for the OS Giken fluid, though its made for OS Giken riffs, not Nismo. Is there a difference that is relevant here? I surely don't know.. I haven't tried any other oil since the conversion and diff rebuild was done. Previously, all thinner oils worked amazingly (I.e normally) but would exit the diff within.. 300km of normal road driving. I don't know for sure if this behaviour persists post diff rebuild. The tailshaft is new, so recently balanced. From what I know the uni was fine (fine enough for driveljne shop to say 'nah its fine' when asked. The gearbox and engine mounts and diff mounts are all new. I mean I changed every piece of Nissan rubber in the car. Every bit! The only thing I can think of is my car has a set of pineapples in 'Max grip' configuration. Given the fact this doesn't feel like tyre skipping (it feels like the subframe is going to fall out levels of clunk) then perhaps this has something to do with it. None of the cars I've driven have had those pineapples installed. Or 'subframe alignment bushes' I think is the correct term. I did also replace the entire subframe with a non-hicas subframe, so can rule the subframe itself out as a cause. I think based on this info I will try removing the pineapples to see if this changes anything. With less power back there now I probably don't need the level of squat I've had in the past.

I'm bumping this because well, fkit I couldnt find anything on search and this thread is all about me and my diff. In the years since this started, the following things have happened. 1) Went manual. No difference. Still Clunky Clunky. 2) Drove three other Nismo 1.5 ways, one in a 32 GTST, one in a 34 GTT, and the one in the S15. All of these were acceptable in terms of clunkiness leading me to believe mine was toast somehow. 3) Got the entire diff pulled down and rebuilt for $800. No problem was found and they said it was pretty much as-new inside there. 4) I have found no posts ever to insinuate Nismo diffs get more worn and more loose over time. 5) Car now has a V8 infront of it and it is still clunky as ever, maybe more so, because dat torque is more noticable at 10kmh. Running OS 250R fluid. 1) Do people use LSD additive with the OS Giken fluid? Is it worth trying? I am going to try it anyway. Is there any other reason anyone can think of why my diff would be more clunky than others? I have replaced every bush in the rear end of the car, and the problem still exists. Backlash was adjusted when the diff was rebuilt, as it was entirely disassembled (I saw it all laid out on a table) at the time to "try and find the problem" of which there was no evidence... Can anyone think of a reason why it would overheat and vomit tons of standard viscosity fluid (80-140 etc) that works fine in every other 1.5 way?

Oh I totally get this, and at the track there is very rarely "subtle" braking when you need to shift down multiple gears at the same time. It struck me as odd, because the pedal heights for other sporty cars (MX5's, RenaultSport Meganes etc) have far closer pedal heights and you can heel toe in them remarkably easily. To do it in my car at least you are almost going through the windshield while attempting to reach the accelerator pedal at all.... which made me wonder if this is a Manual conversion thing or not. By "Barely touching" I mean they actually are only level when the brake pedal is pushed to maximum travel down (i.e 100% braking force). That is the height of the accelerator pedal in my car in my application, which I found quite odd unless Nissan really did make the pedal box for group A racing lol

I get this, but what if you only have the motor? I.e there is no IACV, no manifolds, no coilpacks, no coilpack cover, and you can't pull a rocker cover off to confirm (i.e buying online or something). I do not have a RB anymore but I always was curious about this, if the timing cover is plastic on a Neo, is it metal on a RB25 from a R33 then?

Enkei Raijin is also this style, and in 18"

I think it's just the nature of these turbos and the people that buy them - They aren't a bolt on affair and the people who decide to research a cutting edge turbo are rarely cutting corners in other areas... which means a lot of fabrication, and time, and cost, usually on built motors, on cars that are rarely driven... and so on.

In this scenario it's clearly a Neo. I would love to see how this is done in a scenario where all you get is the block and head bolted together with no peripherals at all which is obviously a bit of a bigger concern when buying a 2nd hand motor...

I can confirm that the 33 GTST clutch pedal and brake pedal works just fine in my R34 sedan. However I don't love the R34 Auto accelerator pedal, it sits signifigantly lower than the brake pedal does by default. I suspect (dont know this for sure, maybe its all skylines?) that the auto accelerator pedal sits lower to be where the auto brake pedal is. With the mismatched height, heel-toe'ing is quite difficult unless you are REALLY hard on the brake to the point where you can blip the throttle. Any other time the accelerator pedal is out of reach. Thats about the only thing to consider. May not even be conversion specific but I've always wondered.

I say this here because to his credit he did search and found I encountered the same issue and solved it back in the day. I found that out by reverse engineering how my aftermarket transmission ECU had been setup and working. But really, the NA gearbox is a piece of garbage, and the GTT one while stronger when built (Mine is still going strong in the UK where I sold it....) pales in comparison. The answer is manual. And if you can't drive manual, have fun learning because it is fun and jesus the car is better manual than it ever was auto. The skyline gearboxes are not exactly lovely DCT's. But yes in theory it can be done.... but in reality, ANY time or money spent working it out should be deferred to putting a manual gearbox in.

Interior Bits All Parts in silver, in pretty decent condition. Only changed as I wanted to change the lot to black to match other interior bits. Stereo Surround - $20 Dash Vents - $30 Climate Control unit (works perfectly): $200 OEM DIN Pocket slot: $50 Auto Shifter Surround: $25 (DOES fit with a manual conversion without fouling). Triple Gauges (aftermarket Oil Temp, Water Temp, Boost). The text here lights up blue and pink/red as in the terrible photo from a video on this ad. Comes with stock gauges as well if you prefer: $250 for all gauges/surround. Oil/Water Heater and Thermostatic (80C)Sandwich plate for R34 Skyline, or any RB25DET - No Leaks, working perfectly. Works perfectly for an oil cooler, or the OEM part works perfectly if you have an old/corroded item! $50 Stock Intercooler pipes (engine side), intake, bov, and heater hoses (R34 GTT) $50 for everything in that photo R34 Fuel pump and hangar. Working fine, removed from stock car. $50 Sony Single DIN Head Unit with Nissan Plug (R34 GTT). Useful if you want to replace the standard stock unit it you for some reason have one. Does not have BT - Has an awesome authentic AUX port and CD option. $25. R34 Nissan Skyline AC Aircon Compressor. Working fine, only removed because of an Engine conversion and wouldn't bolt to the new engine. $100 R34 GTT Starter Motor. Starts. Has started for awhile. What else could you want a starter motor to do? $70 Nissan Skyline R34 GT/GTT R34 Indicator Stalk - Works fine, bought just for testing and turns out it wasn't the indicator stalk that was the problem. $30. Bosch IACVBosch IACV / Idle air control valve. Worked great, incl plugs and resistor. Had this retrofitted to a Nissan Skyline RB25DETNEO motor to take over from the crap stock one that fails and costs $700 to buy. No longer have said motor, so this is up for sale. Works great. Way better than the OEM item if you go anywhere near a track and get things hot. $60 RB25DET Clutch Fan and Hub Near new (i.e not 20 years old, something like 2000ish km) fan and fan hub for RB25DET/RB25DET Neo. Still has Nissan stickers on it. Bought it a few months ago and then sold the motor it was attached to. Works perfectly, kept engine nice and cool under 20+ minute track abuse sessions. $250 Whiteline 24mm Front and Rear Sway BarWorks entirely OK. Trimmed one side of the softest setting to actually fit on a R34 though it's supposed to fit them from Whiteline. This thing is strong and stiff as hell and like me you will probably ignore the "Suitable only for race track warning. I hit a kerb once at the track and it broke the knuckle and the bar was entirely fine. Could use a lick of paint. Comes with spare bushes that I bought but never needed. Front and Rear included. Removed as didn't fit after an engine swap. $300 for both. R34 GTT RB25DET NEO Engine Cover (Series 2) Comes with the coilpack cover $50 Happy to post if need be or pick up.

It IS possible to use an GTT ECU's 'TCM' I.e the inbuilt pins on the ECU) to drive the n/a gearbox. Yes you can just bypass the n/a TCM and wire it to the GTT ECU. The inputs of the n/a TCM DO translate to the extra pins of the R34 GTT auto ECU. If you have a manual engine ECU tho then GL to you. Aftermarket auto ECU's do exist and DO work, but its utterly dumb when 'use anything other than the n/a auto gearbox' is by FAR the best solution.

Hey mate - Keen on the Accusump. Sent you a PM.

I was going to say the same, you really can see how small the turbos are for their flow in a listing like that (same with G25 too).

The thing about old school setups with old school fuel and old school items is... ... they're tried and tested, and work. Even if they aren't the worlds greatest result, they work, and will continue to do so. 320kw bolt on package in a GTR is plenty to have fun with, day in, day out, enjoy car etc.

Pretty huge. If you had Non-neo forged Pistons in a Neo motor, I.e R33 RB25DET pistons in a R34 RB25DET Neo which the S2 Stagea has, your compression would be massively high. High enough that whoever assembled the motor would surely notice...... surely.... It might be the other way around, I can't quite remember. But you'd definitely have compression ratio issues if the wrong pistons end up in the wrong block/head combination. (neo vs non neo)

As an owner of a sedan, I confidently say they will end up all rusting before they are really worth anything at all. Even though functionally they're probably better than the coupe, people buy things based on their eyes and hearts which means coupe all the way. Nowadays you'd try and just manual convert an auto sedan, and enjoy driving the thing as opposed to it being a collector item.

The BMW mentioned also wasn't bad on fuel, but it did have a mysterious issue of always fouling two spark plugs, due to the location of the runners this made a whole lot of sense when we looked at the FPR. It could simply be something like the wrong pistons used, sky high compression ratio etc too. E85 will help with the pinging, but obviously better to find the source ?

This is possibly monumentally off topic, but I recently was made aware of a similar issue where a Boosted 1979 BMW 320i was pinging its brains out on like 3deg of timing. After years of living with it we tested the FPR (Which was a well known australian brand) and it was dumping a good liter a minute of fuel into the intake at idle through the vac line. It's probably not that. But if you've checked everything else..... (it could also be as mentioned, something done when engine was rebuilt. If your car behaves differently, look for all the things that are done differently to others)

Either that or.... People into Skylines in 2006 weren't into Skylines because they were Skylines, but because Skylines were the current cream of the crop, bang for buck, pretty stout car. Now in 2019 they look for the same requirements, and are also 13 years older than they were in 2006, so their requirements change a little, and unsuprisingly, look for cars that meet those same requirements. It's the things the car does that people were attracted to, not the car or badge itself. No real car enthusiast is only an enthusiast for one specific car, make, etc. It's always been about how well the car matches the activity the driver finds fun that makes something good.