Kinkstaah

"Wasn't perfect" is an understatement. I probably have another few hundred photos of various things broken and various stories interspersed between it all, but didn't think the website would handle such a post. There are reasons why my girlfriend painted a picture of this stupid cursed car.. and I haven't even gotten into the whole LS conversion yet.

I don't think it's a straw man argument at all.. The OP clearly posted it with a view to keep it stock looking as they intend to use it as a road car, so "Stock looking" is "Stock looking, Mr Policeman observing my road car" As many have said, there are 0 instances of this actually being done. As many have also said, 1000hp RB26's at all, have a limited lifespan on a racetrack, measured in hours in terms of reliability, and they don't look stock. So to answer the original question, how difficult is it to have a 1000hp, reliable, stock looking setup on the street? I'd say extremely. You and I both know that a 1000hp setup, cruising around town is only using 50kw or something like that at 100km, cruising around. So it could last 400,000km in such a scenario. But that isn't what people really care about when they talk about reliability. They care about how many seconds or hours of full throttle time. While 1000hp in 2020 is different to 1000hp in 1995, I still would say it's limited to drags or highway pulls and even then have limited reliability. WTAC GTR's don't have 1000hp. They certainly don't have 1000hp, and 300,000km of daily driving, and do a track day once a month for multiple years. If you asked the owners to do that, they would definitely insinuate that something would break before then.

I have actually had my car for over 10 years now, so this build thread is retrospective. It may or may not have been prompted by going through many old photos. There are many broken things in these photos, and over the years since getting my humble NA+T Auto sedan (without any knowledge of it being NA+t and not a GTT) It has, in somewhat sequential order. Replaced the NA+T with a GTT engine. Exploded that GTT engine on the dyno immediately. Replaced fuel pump 9 times, some dead pumps, some melty wiring. Also managed to somehow break a R34 fuel tank multiple times, in the red circled area! Thanks, Optima! Replaced the ECU that caused this (TLDR Emanage Blue's are shit, but it was 2008) Built a forged RB with a 2.9 Stroker kit, proceeding to break everything around the car minus the components of this kit. By this I mean 3x RB25 DET Neo blocks, and a head. Here's some nice engine building photos, and quite a bit of engine GORE. This kit seemed to be the most indestructable thing again, as the engine found itself apart more times than together. Each time every component was tested, retested, Xrayed, and it was ready for more. However it seems everything else around it wasn't! Along the way, Blown up the shift kitted MV auto gearbox, near instantly. Built a GTT Auto gearbox, complete with aftermarket TCU, which broke Trent's dyno @ Chequered, forcing him to upgrade it. Had Hypergear, Garrett, GTX3076, Turbos.. .....Drove the car into an enbankment and had to reshell entire car. Re-Wiring the Automatic gearbox into a different/new car was a seamless easy experience, with absolutely no problems whatsoever! GTX3582, and Borg Warner EFR7670's as Turbos after that.. Many dyno sheets of all these setups, over my approximately seventy million trips to chequered tuning. Looks great, doesn't it? Many in progress shots but these turbo setups had their own problems oh boy did they ever! There was also a 6boost manifold that had to be machined 2mm so it was actually flat... photos.... somewhere. 3-4 different sets of rims over this time. Complete with brake upgrade kit, with its own f****king issues!! Just after the Borg Warner EFR Turbo, the auto found its way exiting my vehicle,, and the car was manually converted, and to quote to the words of JMA's automotive: "Never bring this f**king car here ever again!" so I'm sure the install was smooth, and had absolutely no problems at all in any way. Somewhere along the line, seats were installed/upgraded/tested: Drove the car to Adelaide, all was well, all happy with the world, to find out I almost melted the car to the ground 7 different ways from sunday due to how lines, and wiring was packaged. Delicious. Hilarious, brief (oh god, so very brief) backstory complete, this all cumulated with ripping apart the entire car and starting again. I then, replaced every bush in the car, LS Converted the motor, and is now currently Legally engineered in Victoria (incl full EPA/IM240 test passing experience). Info continued. Previous info can be elaborated on if anyone cares first! Bonus installation photo of my friend helping me with my Bilsteins (which Bilstein revalved to suit the LS when I got the whole thing weighted when that was done).

It is interesting and clearly OP has the skills (and confidence) to get the project done. The confusion will come from most people considering it a side-grade at best, given the amount of work thats been pumped into it which is un-reachable by most of the people here (self included) For a result which most would say... is at best.. different. You'd find some would prefer either a R32 OR a R34, but not necessarily a front 32 on a 34, or vice versa. The only universally accepted front body swap seems to be a GTR or R34 GTT front end onto a stagea ? But you know what - This is is what this section of the forum is for.. cosmetic styling and its some new content in here for once ?

Is your Skyline off the road? Do you want something to drive around and not hate life? Do you want to view your own car suspiciously and question why you even own it when your silly French car pretty much equals it for 99.95% of the things you do? If so, this is the car for you. I bought this Megane ~20,000kms ago after renting a few from Hertz and fell in love with them much to the annoyance of anyone near me with ears. I purchsed this one as a car to get around town with while other car projects were off the road and I will surely regret not having it in the future. Help me make a mistake by selling it. This IS a 225 Sport Cup, not a 225 Sport. The cup has different suspension and different steering and a host of other different things, more relaxed stability control etc, which were all introduced as fixes to the 225 Sport when it was originally released. The car is pretty much standard other than: RSTuner STG 1 tune (included tuner/ODB2 reader with car), so you'll need to run it on 98. A pretty okay looking wrap to cover Renault's amazing water based clear coat Mid Muffler Delete, which makes nearly no actual difference to sound. Ford Focus XR5 rims, which sit out a little more than the original Cup rims which were cracked when I got them. Hankook RS4 Tyres (235/40/18) KAM Fire extinguisher bracket. You'll also get 2 extra sets of brake pads, one OEM, and one DBA XP which I got for free from BrakesDirect. The car currently has Forza FP3 brake pads up the front, which are track suitable but entirely okay to drive around with on the road. The car does have some interior creaks which I believe ALL of them do after testing when looking to buy this one. I assure you if you are the kind of driver that is interested in a car like this, it won't bother you after taking one corner in a twisty road like this. If you want a comparison, all up they're about as bad as a coke can sitting in a drink holder. I bought this thinking it would be an excuse to bust out the tools and keep busy while a V8 conversion was going on. My tools gathered dust.

Lol. Guys, 1000hp engines may last a season on track. 50 laps is 150km. A year of track days at once a month (more than most) is 1800km. Sorry but if your 1000hp engine lasts 1800 hard km.. it's still an unreliable piece of crap. And I think someone getting 12 full track days out of a 1000 hp setup, with 50 hot laps per session is beyond what it would reasonably last. If you're measuring your engine life in hours, then.. yeah.

Again @Tobz I have a question, as I have a 34 and had to make my own seat "adapters" (i.e large steel plates with huge bolts) Do the ones from Crank Motorsport raise the seat up much/any? I found that after making some plates up the seats did sit a fair bit higher than they otherwise would have. An off the shelf adapter like the one you listed would have made my life a lot easier! In any case thanks for posting, people often have R34 problems with seats fitting and end up having to buy rails that do/don't/maybe fit, so getting the info out there is ???

No smart folks want 1000hp in any form of street car, because the reliability of such a setup, even on the best built engine will be comedy at best.

I took the entire engine out and replaced it with a better engine.

I have broken 2 R34 fuel tanks. When getting a new price for one from Kudosmotorsports I was told that the part number for S15, R33, R34, GTR etc was all the same part number. Rffectively all the non-metal R32 plastic tanks were the same. However I would definitely re-check that information before getting one shipped to the USA, because y'all get S14's over there and that MAY be the same part.

Here's an example on my old rims, and yes in this photo the front is clearly higher than the rear as it's on a slope too. That said, if the front was lower, it'd tuck further in, but I can't really find anything more conclusive. Clearly the above photos are gonna work if you're a coupe, and everything on the internet I have found says the front track is 10mm wider than the rear track on a 34 GTT. So I could just be fkin wrong lol. However, I definitely don't need a spacer on the rear with a 9+30, so perhaps the coupe does have a little more space in the guards.

Nope, my car is higher than yours too, and I have only -1.5 deg camber at the back - It could be tyres in my case. Its worth mentioning that the rear pokes a good 10mm more than the front, for the same fitment which I found suprising! I could take pictures of how it sits, mind you its been out in the weather for a month now ?

That is bizarre. I have 18x9 +30 and I need rolls to clear.. Also the rear on the 34 pokes out more than the front. At least it does with the Sedan, perhaps the coupe IS different! (I have 265 tyres on all 4)

You said this. Then someone posted up literal picture of the differences and how to cut them out with a die grinder to the same size if you've got epic confidence and a forklift workbench. Yes it will still work, yes people still use the DE head with DET intakes to get some results, as people have said. But what I've quoted up here from you is factually incorrect, was proven incorrect with pictures, and people saying "Hey whoa, that information isn't correct" is exactly what you'd want on a forum. "The head intakes are smaller, but some people have got reasonable results in any case until it becomes a restriction" is all accurate, and noone has actually disagreed on any of it, from any posts here.

Hey @Tobz, good to know the 34 was "meant" (sort of) to have a battery in the boot. Also: What airbox is that? How well does it fit on the underside to the chassis of the car? Looks like the hi octane one. I was considering buying one and modifying it so it fits my intake pipes. Nice to see an actual shot of it inside a real car.

Sway.. at the front.. only? Any photos of it at the track mid-corner? That is how you know if you truly have sway going on ?

The fuel tank in a R34 GTT has the light coming on at 50L (or near, think 48-50L). So half the tank indicated (which ALSO isnt linear) is 25L for your 200km. Which while not great, isn't too far from the realm of possibility for city driving. I remember in the day I could get 600km from a tank, in a GTT, in an Auto... if that entire tank was used at 100-110kmh on a highway (i.e driving to Sydney).

If you have a widebody, sure. Both will sit out about 15-20mm from the guard.

@jrm They sure are! Shoot me a PM with details if keen. Still have everything listed, all boxed up away from the elements etc ?

Yes. The front will tuck 1mm more than a 9+30, rear will be +1mm pokey vs a 9+30, but people run 10+38 on the rear all the time (with is +4mm of poke in the same example vs 9+30) They will fit. You will likely need to roll guards in order to fit them depending on how much tyre you want on said rims.

18x9 +30 can fit without issues. I have them on my car. I have rolled guards and 265's all round. It is very tight. However, they definitely will, absolutely, fit. I would say a 18x9 +38 on the front would be pushing it to the point where it will both look worse and also not fit. So fk that off.

Yep, the only way around this is front flares and a spacer. Sadly you've done all you can do, the wheels simply don't fit at the front.

Nissans are generally really good to take a beating and you can definitely daily them for pretty much every component except the engine, but I fixed that in a different way myself.. That said I recall a R33 GTR being sold with 550,000km on it as it was used as a daily, and you can bet that 500,000 of that km was driving on a highway making 22kw, not 550,000 track miles making 400awkw. As others have noticed I definitely see more R32 GTR's out and about on the street than 33's and 34's which do appear on weekends pretty much.

Above post is good, but just to confirm, actually confirm that you have fuel, air, spark. Just because the ECU is attempting to fire the injector doesn't always mean the injector is being fired. As above, you may need to see what IAT is used when the sensor is unplugged, it will have a fail condition. The link forum may be of more help here. At this point (and the joys of standalone ecus) your link could be running any engine.

Woooosh. It is the button that notifies you that the buttons on the wheel to change gear are activated. The button that controls this function is next to the shifter.