Kinkstaah

COVID Sure is fun. On the list of things as fun as COVID, I discovered I had an oil leak appearing from the bellhousing (or at least ending/dripping from there). I then googled "Common ls1 oil leaks" and oh yes wow that sure is a lot. I noticed there was oil at the top of the motor and oil always goes down. I checked both valve covers, and they looked to actually be fine and dry and nice and new. One of the more common leaks on a LS is the factory oil pressure sender, which i don't actually use in my scenario. So I thought well lets spend many hours learning how to take the top of the motor apart to get to it. The factory OEM Pressure sender looks like this. They are prone to leaking through the sensor. They look like this: Eventually I found this: So the sensor, into an adapter, into a banjo adapter (with the port plugged off) into the motor. All of which was not required. I replaced it with this: Because GM use a m16x1.5 thread in their oil pressure sender to seal it. So a sump plug should work in that space, which looked like this: Simple, easy fix! Well it would have been, if in doing so I didnt develop a new found rage and hatred for those braided lines going to the catch can. Space behind the manifold is at an absolute premium, and in pulling the line that went to the Driver side breather off, this happened: So then I thought you know what, I am going back to rubber lines as they are more flexible, slimmer, fit easier, and at MOST would hold 1 atmosphere of pressure at sea level, so unless they are exploding while sitting on a shelf at repco they absolutely don't need to be braided. So in doing so, I had to remove the braided hoses from other parts of the motor, like say the intake. Being used to Skyline intakes, I was happy to pull the rubber hose off. Then predictably, this happened. There's supposed to be a barb/nipple/whatever moulded into the intake there. So now the intake had to come off, either to replace with another intake manifold, or buy an upgraded manifold (for $2000) or to see if this can actually be repaired. So off came coolant lines, fuel rails, fuel injectors out of the manifold as well as moving aircon lines out of the way and hours and hours of labor and learning about how this all goes together again. This was the fix on a Saturday afternoon by a friend who owns a workshop and has a steady hand to actually tap and fit a fitting here. I also noticed this vac port at the back of the manifold was just ... sitting there open. Nice: When putting my injectors back in I noticed that some of them looked a little different to others, namely: Normal: However one looked like this.... And most alarmingly, one looked like this! In any case, I said a prayer, put it all back together (with suspect injectors being made VERY accessible) and went out for a test drive. Car felt pretty good, and I came back and found that I didn't fix anything at all, and that I would have to do it all over again and dig a little deeper and find out where the oil up top was really coming from.

I expected a jetski

The answer is actually yes, to all of them. (and probably has been, going back to 90's cars and people who enjoyed 70's cars thinking the same about 90's turbo cars) If you think about what it costs to build up an old car with oem style reliability and target performance, you will find that some cars are actually pretty great value. Safety comes with insulation from the road. This is arguably a good thing even if it's not as 'raw' Its a little easier when you get depreciation going on. Go have a look at a 2012 86 or a 370Z and see how much they sell for, compared to a stock, unrestored 180SX or R32 if they even exist. The comparisons there are pretty easy to draw, my friend recently got a 318ti notchback, coils, 2.8L conversion from the 328i, awesome car to drive, peppy, fun, all bushes and such fixed, good wheels, and comes out to about the price of a 2nd hand 86 from 2013. Now lets say you didn't particularily care about 1995 old school BMW things, "Just going out to buy" an 86 is a much simplier, easier, more sensible, better 'value' option if you add things like emotional and physical labor as a cost as opposed to a 'fun experience'. While cars are still NEW NEW it may be hard to justify 60k for a 2020 Mustang. But would you pay 27k for a Mustang when prices drop, and a stock R34 GTT is ~25k? One of these is massively better than the other in every category but 'old school raw'. Cars are improving, and mods (for power) are becoming less relevent given engine power from OEM is getting far far more accessible/usable/not requiring of boosting a great deal for the track, and double so for any amount of road fun that's semi sensible.

Cmon folks, surely someone wants to do a skid. Technically this is a 1.5 way, it's just everyone thinks 1-ways are actually 1.5 ways.

Reminds me of this! However in my case the car was still making 360rwkw ?

I had my neo head hiflowed back in the day by a reputable person, and from that point on my neo beat the shit out of any 26/28 for power and response vs PSI going into it. I guess you'd cost up the head work ($1300-1400ish) to adding VCT to a 26/28 to really compare. I mean 11psi (10.9) to make 330kw on a 3076 size turbo. That's a lot of flow. If you're going to go single turbo anyway... yeah this isn't as dumb a swap as you may think. I'd gladly drop a NEO/Stagea Drivetrain into a GTR/GTS4 shell and sleep happy about it. As for the original issue - I don't know/I didn't have it with my neo, though I had a clutch/flywheel from a R33 GTST Gearbox. Someone here would probably know how close a 33 GTR/33GTST gearbox/flywheel etc relate to one another. But if the issue doesn't follow RPM, it's unlikely to be that set of spinny bits.

I did say 11.0 afr, but the actual trace from haltech is a lot closer than the dyno printout. Alternatively - How confident are you that either is right? Why do they differ? +5 for actually showing data though!

Memes aside, it looks actually OK now. Please do not ruin it to make it look good to people who really should be euthanized that we're all poking fun at. Sincerely, Earth.

The joke would be use the white ones obviously, but in all seriousness the car is handsome and neat and at the risk of you actually putting venetians on don't put venetians on.

Realistically 500hp (372kw) can be done without touching the engine. More if you want to consider that 500hp to be flywheel hp and assume it's about 320rwkw. To do that, all you need is the 'basics' i.e Fuel System (injectors, pumps) Intercooler (of any reasonable recommended sort) Some new turbo and/or manifold/lines to do it. Tbh at this goal you may be within the realm of a Hypergear direct bolt on minimal to-no fabrication turbo. Depends on goals and budget and such. The rest of the car (diff, gearbox, tailshaft) won't need to change to support that level of grunt. Will need a clutch but I doubt any RB25 is running a stock clutch, on planet earth at all in 2020.

Where's your venetians and whitewalls? up your game m8

If you ask for coke, and some recommends Pepsi as a far better option for your life enjoyment, and can back it up with facts, and maths, and other personal experiences and can demonstrate it is clearly better Then no, being annoyed isn't a correct response actually, it'd be better to take this advice in good stead. You may find that the people giving this advise have done the research behind doing said idea, and have gone a different path. They didn't just "not try hard enough" or "not have the idea", it is entirely possible they have thought about this, considered it, done the maths, done the research, then discarded the idea as 'not good for reason XYZ' There's usually pretty good reasons whey people don't do what seems to be an obvious cool thing. This forum really revolves around: "What do you want to do with your car? Decide this, then work backwards" A Barra R32 doesn't fit 99.9% of the "What do you want to do with your car" questions EXCEPT "I want to look cool by saying I have a Barra r32, I don't care if it actually isn't as good as many other options, i want to spend more time, effort, money, have more headaches just for the dopamine kick of saying I have a 4L Turbo" If this is your justification, do it - It's rare around these parts to have a justification like that. If your justification is performance, or especially performance/dollar ratio/life happiness for most it's not the best plan, which is why you get the replies like this.

cars.7z Also at some point I OCD-recreated all of the stats for Assetto Corsa for my car (in both forms), down to weight and dyno sheet and alignment and tyres/wheels. They do however, look like the R34 GTR. They definitely drive like I remember so I must have gotten it pretty close (especially if the TC is off).

Hahaha yeah, the video was terrible in terms of driving, especially T1, the spin was in the previous session over ATTEMPTING TO DOWNSHIFT while not knowing how braking was going to work, what rev matching was going to work, etc etc etc, so I was very much "fk this lets just make it around the corner" The telemetry app had an optimal lap (of all sectors) in the ~1:23 region. But I did notice I didn't have to let nearly as much air out of my tyres, relative to other tracks so I know there's way more lateral grip available as well as punching out of turns. I know I can carry more through turn 6 etc as well, can do it in 4th instead of 3rd etc.. But it was rough trying to set a brake marker when you don't actually know if the car is going to pull up at the brake marker I was thinking of! It was more to highlight the sound/garbling average/proof I went to a track day. I have Forza FR6 pads on the way (the non working ones were FP3, which were okay). I was thinking about trying Raybestos or Elig's next time, the price I got quoted for Elig's in my size given Forzas take forever to get here/probably won't buy again was around the $375 region for the DB1933 full swept pad size.

So now that I had a legal car, with its wiring 'fixed' and nothing broke yet, I entered again for a day at the track, with Driver Dynamics at Sandown. Yay. Unfortunately it would appear having a mic on a 30cm piece of wood hanging out the end of the car is WAY too loud for a mic, so everything is distorted sounding. I will try next time with an external mic for the camera perhaps inside the car cabin. I also sadly found out that while I rebuilt the brakes, the rear really was locking up before the front, and pads quickly became squishy and not up to snuff giving me pretty bad confidence in stopping. This is kinda important at Sandown. I also found out all about that whole "Feels like it's rolling but isn't" characteristic of the shocks when attempting to actually push the car. So it was all pretty unfamiliar. I also found out that my arms were sore as hell from the stiff steering and shifter. My left hand, it was bruised from that damn T56. I went a bit quicker than I did the first time I went at Sandown, but that was one of my first ever track days so it was hard to compare. However the car didn't break! (other than some leaking AN fittings to the catch can) and um, I found out my rear pads looked like this at the end of the day. So in short, there's much more in it in both terms of driver and car. My front pads were pretty worn, so I bought a set of upgraded FR6's (as they never faded for me the first time I bought them) and finally took the plunge in having a road set of pads and a track set of pads and will swap them beforehand. This also makes me actually check my f**king pads so i don't end up driving home with the above and have no pads to put back into the car... again. But yes, rear braking was always a headache for me and my Sandown trip did not instill confidence. It was time to upgrade the BMC to a BM57 from... this? ???? In any case the BM57 did go in - And it was immediately noticable with a much stronger pedal feel, and although I've only tested on the street on my new street pads, the ABS kicks in far more friendly at the front and doesn't pull the car all over the road tempting death, so I am very keen for my track pads to show up and hit the track again! This was also where teh diff was changed, from my 1.5 way (which locks effectively like a 2 way)... and also had one of the superpro bushes do this hmm. To a helical for the R34, the rarest of beautiful unicorns. Will this act wildly different on the track because 2 ways are certain death? I don't know, I never thought it was that bad.... It certainly drives like a regular car on the street which was f**kin not bad at all if you ask me! And it locks up perfectly in a straight line, and works entirely fine with my traction control system. Definitely, 100%, Positively not-bad at all. Something that WAS that bad however, was wiring which I noticed had started to get worn through on the driver side front arch. This was unacceptable and as much as I was annoyed to have to do it twice, as I had half ass attempted this before, it had to be re-done. And after! Actually wasn't too bad and some bending of the lip enabled the wiring to go above it, and out of the way, and not being utterly destroyed if I say, hit a kerb at the track. While we're there, there was one more horrible, horrible, horrible, horrible thing to address. Cool. Various tools of the trade ready to go. Several, Several, Several, Several hours of this: And eventually a little bit of this: We ended up with a lot less sanity and this: Is it perfect? f**k no!. Is it a lot better than rusty metal lasagne that ran down the length of the entire car? yes, yes it is. Then COVID-19 happened and I've driven the car long enough to have a plastic bag melt on the exhaust making me think holy shit what the f**k has broken now: I'm still waiting on the track brake pads I ordered right after Sandown, but I'm planning on going to Broadford to see if I can do a reasonable back to back test of the car before and now. This thread is now up to date. Feel free to post whore to your hearts content!

The GTT has various under body braces that the GT does not. I can't be too more detailed (I swapped chassis about 5 years ago now) but I recall everything just looking more 'heavy duty' under the GTT. It was suprising. Technically the gt also has no rear sway bar The GT also has the ABS system from a S15 The diff by default is an open type diff with the same configuration and half shafts as a S15. The gearbox is a weak piece of shit which is generally weaker. This theme is also apparent on a lot of different things you wouldn't ordinarily realise (or even notice unless you had the cars side by side on two different hoists).

Nismo 2 ways are really a 1.5 way, and their 1.5 way is really a 1 way. In any case, remember you want S15 gear. Yes, everyone goes aftermarket with the odd exception. My "2/1.5" way Nismo was admittedly pretty amazing to slide around on like a dickhead when ... testing. I'd say buy it, but it fits a R34 Turbo and will not fit your car as you need a S15 'compatible' diff center.

This reminds me of a story I had that I forgot to mention in this thread. I am fully confident no-one will believe this occurred. I am glad that I was with someone when it happened (my old mate from before) because we both said when recounting this story to anyone else it would not be believed. Anywho, during this build I bought larger injectors than stock for E85. Also, Xspurt provide full injector data tables for my engine and my ecu that I could just copy and paste about ten different 10x10 tables directly in which was absolutely amazingly great. And they had these cool little solid adaptors to plug into the OEM loom. Fantastic. And they should drop right in, awesome. And as you all know, you get a new set of o-rings because noone re-uses old o-rings when you get new injectors. Step 1, remove fuel rail. All goes well, some fuel goes places, some paint gets ruined, but meh. Step 2, remove stock injectors All goes well, injectors put into box on the side for now Step 3, install new injectors They don't fit. Specifically it's the o-rings that do not fit. Now we all know you're supposed to have some resistance to putting an injector in, there's that element of 'this goes in without pinching or twisting but it does 'pop' in and it compresses and etc. Except these f**kers just don't. I noped out of this initially and asked friend if it felt right. He ended up putting full force into the injector port and even if it went in, we were almost certain it would end up inside the engine, or split, or god knows what because these f**kers just did not fit. Old photo, and old engine, but they were being forced in like this: And obviously smart us goes to install these at like 9pm. We eventually give up and decide to re-use an o-ring from an old injector for fitting purposes. It works perfectly. We take it out again and measure the two o-rings against one another, and they ARE slightly different, one is out by about ~1mm in diameter. (15.1 vs 13.7 or something like that). We try the first 4 new injectors and they all have the same problem. These injectors didn't have the o-rings pre-installed on them, so maybe we got the wrong box? (though it all came in one sealed box, just seperated inside) We install the first 4 injectors using the 4 least shitty re-used o-rings. So at this stage we have 4 new injectors in, and nothing on the passenger side bank. I jokingly say "Lets see if the other 4 injectors fit on the other side of the engine" and they fit perfectly. wtf intensifies, so we take one of the injectors out of the passenger side bank and put this mysteriously working injector onto the driver side and lo and behold, it fits perfectly. Quite confused at this point we're like "did we get 2 different sizes of o-rings?" and decide to put the 4 "working, new, o-ring new injectors" on the driver side as they're much harder to get to, and use the old o-ringed ones on the passenger side, so I can replace the o-rings later. Some of the O-rings were 'acceptableish' anyway. And now I only needed 4, instead of 8. When time comes to do the passenger side, I idly put the new o-rings back on to the new injectors, as to not get confused... and go to fit them, to replicate previous "these don't f**king fit"... ... and they fit perfectly.. They all fit perfectly. The new o-rings looked visually different to the old ones (old ones have a stripe and are 15y old) In complete disbelief we remove all 8 new injectors, all 8 new o-rings and measure them all and they are all 14.2ish mm. Perfect. Seal a little nicer than OEM. And all completely fit perfectly. Maximum Gregging it.

I don't know the characteristics of that wire, seems to be an issue with conversions (as an OEM RB25 car ostensibly has it wired to the dash). Plenty of "My alternator not charging, turns out it was the bulb in the dash that did it? weird" threads. Try the resistor and give it a go? I don't have a RB25 anymore so I can't comment further!

Going by google and SAU results, this is the wire that goes to the dash bulb. Your car says it is a 240SX. See this thread: http://forums.240sxone.com/showthread.php?t=8702

It may be the alternator trigger wire? Given you've already replaced the alternator... I only found out all about trigger wires (or the alternator exciter wire) when I was troubleshooting the exact opposite of this - My alternator always being on. When the car was off!

So all's well that ends well, yes? I had my VASS Cert and Eng Cert and had a legal V8 Skyline. I shall sum up the things that went wrong between then and, well, now. First of all, the aircon compressor shat itself and had to be fixed. The fix was quite simply a new AC compressor which set me back about $1800 all told given the labor to install, gas, etc. Turns out "Hey man that AC compressor could have absolutely blown its seals/dried out if it was sitting on a junkyard motor for years" is pretty sensible advice. So hey, maybe the power steering is next to go..... I also noticed that while tuning the car (and on the dyno) that my VE map seemed a little richer than most, but I wasn't exactly making more power than most, less actually but I couldn't find where I had got a correction wrong in order to figure out what was going on. I finally got my wideband to talk to HPTuners, and noticed what was recorded in HPTuners didn't agree with the gauge (the gauge showed a leaner value which is what I had been tuning against.) Innovate also have their own app which shows the AFR on a serial line, seperate to what the wideband controller sends to the gauge which is a 0-5v output based on the reading of it, where the Serial line is unfiltered or unconverted. The Innovate software agreed with HPTuners, which was also positive. I read online that people fixed this by putting a voltage offset in the software for the controller to fix the gauge, and it was caused by grounding the gauge to something different to the wideband generally. However in my case it was the same ground, because my gauge literally plugs into the wideband controller and has no seperate ground to even take... I asked Innovate about this because who wants to tune a car with the AFR values out? But go no reply once I told them it was literally plugged into the controller.... Anyway before: And after: (i.e running an offset to the gauge) Obviously then I had to retune the whole car, because it was too rich everywhere. But I enjoy that shit. Strangely, my original battery lasted 18 months on concrete but finally didn't seem to hold charge, so I replaced the battery. I then noticed this new battery also didn't seem to hold charge which made me forgive my original battery that I had since thrown away. Some sleuthing later I found this (with car off) Cool. I also found that an ODB2 Dongle (like say, my HPTuners MVPI2) is not intended to be left plugged in all the time because it will flatten your battery. However the above picture wasn't that. I eventually traced it to the... horn... fuse? After many days thinking and "Surely it can't be the horn, it's got to be something else" I took the car for a drive with the horn fuse taken out, only to notice (Thanks awesome head unit btw!) that my battery voltage was apparently 10.8 Volts. While driving around. Driving around fine, by the way, apparently LS's can just drive around and start at under 11 volts and you'd never know. I jumped out of the car and used my multimeter to check the battery and yep, 10.8 volts with the car running, so it wasn't just the head unit. I put the fuse back in to the horn and suddenly 13.9v. So my horn was wired into my Alternator. I then vaguely remembered something being said about VY vs VZ alternators and exciter wires and maybe the loom I had was for the type of alternator I did not have? or something along those lines... In any case, surgery happened this was wired into the ignition, and now no more flatto batto. So even though my accusump wasn't installed yet (I didn't want to have to explain it to the engineer) its TIME TO HIT THE TRACK. Accomodation booked, track day booked, Winton test and tune, today is finally the day, until the car cuts out. And it keeps cutting out, blowing the main ECU fuse, and taking all my gauges with it. The day before. After being entirely fine for thousands of kilometers and tests. I finish work for theday, run home, say "I have 3 hours to fix this/find this" because Winton is a 3 hour drive away and have to check in at the Airbnb at a non-insane hour. Rewire all the gauges in the car, center console entirely disassembled. No problems found. GF brings pizza to save time while I tinker with stuff. Eventually unable to find. Have to give up. f**k this stupid Skyline Take this car instead: It handles the drive to Winton fine. It does 76 hotlaps on the track day itself fine, over 5000rpm the entire day, hard braking every turn. It was 1s off the pace of the 34 (in my noobie hands) before the conversion. It drives for hours enjoying country victorian sights the day after fine, it drives home fine. (you should buy it) I realise later it was done on OEM suspension too. It sets the bar very high for "You must be pretty f**king good to drive, Skyline, or you're going in the f**king bin) I get home, look for wiring anywhere else it could possibly be and find this: Ahhhhh. My wideband was uh, a bit melty on the exhaust. Fixed the exposed wire, re-routed it behind heat shielding, and problem has not re-occurred, and checked a few times since. Ready for the (next?) Trackday!

Yep usually a decent dyno operator will key in the diff ratio of the car on the dyno, the screenshot you've used.... doesn't... for reasons unknown. 1600 would/should be 6576rpm if that car had a diff ratio of 4.11. Reading the output of either dyno should be very similar once that's taken into account.

I had a R34 GT NA+T initially and went through this. You have the same rear end (stub axles included) as a S15. Your suspension for a R34 GT Non-Turbo is the same as a R33 GTST

Keep in mind the GT has a S15 rear end, so if you do get a diff, you want one that suits a S15. In regards to Nismo, I kept digging - It seems the one I have is a 1.5 way, but acts like a 2 way. This is because when people say "1.5 way" Nismo diffs they actually mean the Nismo 1 way diff. Or you could get a S15 Helical. General consensus is stay away from Viscous, and you'd have a hard time finding one for a S15 anyway.