Kinkstaah

I had my neo head hiflowed back in the day by a reputable person, and from that point on my neo beat the shit out of any 26/28 for power and response vs PSI going into it. I guess you'd cost up the head work ($1300-1400ish) to adding VCT to a 26/28 to really compare. I mean 11psi (10.9) to make 330kw on a 3076 size turbo. That's a lot of flow. If you're going to go single turbo anyway... yeah this isn't as dumb a swap as you may think. I'd gladly drop a NEO/Stagea Drivetrain into a GTR/GTS4 shell and sleep happy about it. As for the original issue - I don't know/I didn't have it with my neo, though I had a clutch/flywheel from a R33 GTST Gearbox. Someone here would probably know how close a 33 GTR/33GTST gearbox/flywheel etc relate to one another. But if the issue doesn't follow RPM, it's unlikely to be that set of spinny bits.

I did say 11.0 afr, but the actual trace from haltech is a lot closer than the dyno printout. Alternatively - How confident are you that either is right? Why do they differ? +5 for actually showing data though!

Memes aside, it looks actually OK now. Please do not ruin it to make it look good to people who really should be euthanized that we're all poking fun at. Sincerely, Earth.

The joke would be use the white ones obviously, but in all seriousness the car is handsome and neat and at the risk of you actually putting venetians on don't put venetians on.

Realistically 500hp (372kw) can be done without touching the engine. More if you want to consider that 500hp to be flywheel hp and assume it's about 320rwkw. To do that, all you need is the 'basics' i.e Fuel System (injectors, pumps) Intercooler (of any reasonable recommended sort) Some new turbo and/or manifold/lines to do it. Tbh at this goal you may be within the realm of a Hypergear direct bolt on minimal to-no fabrication turbo. Depends on goals and budget and such. The rest of the car (diff, gearbox, tailshaft) won't need to change to support that level of grunt. Will need a clutch but I doubt any RB25 is running a stock clutch, on planet earth at all in 2020.

Where's your venetians and whitewalls? up your game m8

If you ask for coke, and some recommends Pepsi as a far better option for your life enjoyment, and can back it up with facts, and maths, and other personal experiences and can demonstrate it is clearly better Then no, being annoyed isn't a correct response actually, it'd be better to take this advice in good stead. You may find that the people giving this advise have done the research behind doing said idea, and have gone a different path. They didn't just "not try hard enough" or "not have the idea", it is entirely possible they have thought about this, considered it, done the maths, done the research, then discarded the idea as 'not good for reason XYZ' There's usually pretty good reasons whey people don't do what seems to be an obvious cool thing. This forum really revolves around: "What do you want to do with your car? Decide this, then work backwards" A Barra R32 doesn't fit 99.9% of the "What do you want to do with your car" questions EXCEPT "I want to look cool by saying I have a Barra r32, I don't care if it actually isn't as good as many other options, i want to spend more time, effort, money, have more headaches just for the dopamine kick of saying I have a 4L Turbo" If this is your justification, do it - It's rare around these parts to have a justification like that. If your justification is performance, or especially performance/dollar ratio/life happiness for most it's not the best plan, which is why you get the replies like this.

cars.7z Also at some point I OCD-recreated all of the stats for Assetto Corsa for my car (in both forms), down to weight and dyno sheet and alignment and tyres/wheels. They do however, look like the R34 GTR. They definitely drive like I remember so I must have gotten it pretty close (especially if the TC is off).

Hahaha yeah, the video was terrible in terms of driving, especially T1, the spin was in the previous session over ATTEMPTING TO DOWNSHIFT while not knowing how braking was going to work, what rev matching was going to work, etc etc etc, so I was very much "fk this lets just make it around the corner" The telemetry app had an optimal lap (of all sectors) in the ~1:23 region. But I did notice I didn't have to let nearly as much air out of my tyres, relative to other tracks so I know there's way more lateral grip available as well as punching out of turns. I know I can carry more through turn 6 etc as well, can do it in 4th instead of 3rd etc.. But it was rough trying to set a brake marker when you don't actually know if the car is going to pull up at the brake marker I was thinking of! It was more to highlight the sound/garbling average/proof I went to a track day. I have Forza FR6 pads on the way (the non working ones were FP3, which were okay). I was thinking about trying Raybestos or Elig's next time, the price I got quoted for Elig's in my size given Forzas take forever to get here/probably won't buy again was around the $375 region for the DB1933 full swept pad size.

So now that I had a legal car, with its wiring 'fixed' and nothing broke yet, I entered again for a day at the track, with Driver Dynamics at Sandown. Yay. Unfortunately it would appear having a mic on a 30cm piece of wood hanging out the end of the car is WAY too loud for a mic, so everything is distorted sounding. I will try next time with an external mic for the camera perhaps inside the car cabin. I also sadly found out that while I rebuilt the brakes, the rear really was locking up before the front, and pads quickly became squishy and not up to snuff giving me pretty bad confidence in stopping. This is kinda important at Sandown. I also found out all about that whole "Feels like it's rolling but isn't" characteristic of the shocks when attempting to actually push the car. So it was all pretty unfamiliar. I also found out that my arms were sore as hell from the stiff steering and shifter. My left hand, it was bruised from that damn T56. I went a bit quicker than I did the first time I went at Sandown, but that was one of my first ever track days so it was hard to compare. However the car didn't break! (other than some leaking AN fittings to the catch can) and um, I found out my rear pads looked like this at the end of the day. So in short, there's much more in it in both terms of driver and car. My front pads were pretty worn, so I bought a set of upgraded FR6's (as they never faded for me the first time I bought them) and finally took the plunge in having a road set of pads and a track set of pads and will swap them beforehand. This also makes me actually check my f**king pads so i don't end up driving home with the above and have no pads to put back into the car... again. But yes, rear braking was always a headache for me and my Sandown trip did not instill confidence. It was time to upgrade the BMC to a BM57 from... this? ???? In any case the BM57 did go in - And it was immediately noticable with a much stronger pedal feel, and although I've only tested on the street on my new street pads, the ABS kicks in far more friendly at the front and doesn't pull the car all over the road tempting death, so I am very keen for my track pads to show up and hit the track again! This was also where teh diff was changed, from my 1.5 way (which locks effectively like a 2 way)... and also had one of the superpro bushes do this hmm. To a helical for the R34, the rarest of beautiful unicorns. Will this act wildly different on the track because 2 ways are certain death? I don't know, I never thought it was that bad.... It certainly drives like a regular car on the street which was f**kin not bad at all if you ask me! And it locks up perfectly in a straight line, and works entirely fine with my traction control system. Definitely, 100%, Positively not-bad at all. Something that WAS that bad however, was wiring which I noticed had started to get worn through on the driver side front arch. This was unacceptable and as much as I was annoyed to have to do it twice, as I had half ass attempted this before, it had to be re-done. And after! Actually wasn't too bad and some bending of the lip enabled the wiring to go above it, and out of the way, and not being utterly destroyed if I say, hit a kerb at the track. While we're there, there was one more horrible, horrible, horrible, horrible thing to address. Cool. Various tools of the trade ready to go. Several, Several, Several, Several hours of this: And eventually a little bit of this: We ended up with a lot less sanity and this: Is it perfect? f**k no!. Is it a lot better than rusty metal lasagne that ran down the length of the entire car? yes, yes it is. Then COVID-19 happened and I've driven the car long enough to have a plastic bag melt on the exhaust making me think holy shit what the f**k has broken now: I'm still waiting on the track brake pads I ordered right after Sandown, but I'm planning on going to Broadford to see if I can do a reasonable back to back test of the car before and now. This thread is now up to date. Feel free to post whore to your hearts content!

The GTT has various under body braces that the GT does not. I can't be too more detailed (I swapped chassis about 5 years ago now) but I recall everything just looking more 'heavy duty' under the GTT. It was suprising. Technically the gt also has no rear sway bar The GT also has the ABS system from a S15 The diff by default is an open type diff with the same configuration and half shafts as a S15. The gearbox is a weak piece of shit which is generally weaker. This theme is also apparent on a lot of different things you wouldn't ordinarily realise (or even notice unless you had the cars side by side on two different hoists).

Nismo 2 ways are really a 1.5 way, and their 1.5 way is really a 1 way. In any case, remember you want S15 gear. Yes, everyone goes aftermarket with the odd exception. My "2/1.5" way Nismo was admittedly pretty amazing to slide around on like a dickhead when ... testing. I'd say buy it, but it fits a R34 Turbo and will not fit your car as you need a S15 'compatible' diff center.

This reminds me of a story I had that I forgot to mention in this thread. I am fully confident no-one will believe this occurred. I am glad that I was with someone when it happened (my old mate from before) because we both said when recounting this story to anyone else it would not be believed. Anywho, during this build I bought larger injectors than stock for E85. Also, Xspurt provide full injector data tables for my engine and my ecu that I could just copy and paste about ten different 10x10 tables directly in which was absolutely amazingly great. And they had these cool little solid adaptors to plug into the OEM loom. Fantastic. And they should drop right in, awesome. And as you all know, you get a new set of o-rings because noone re-uses old o-rings when you get new injectors. Step 1, remove fuel rail. All goes well, some fuel goes places, some paint gets ruined, but meh. Step 2, remove stock injectors All goes well, injectors put into box on the side for now Step 3, install new injectors They don't fit. Specifically it's the o-rings that do not fit. Now we all know you're supposed to have some resistance to putting an injector in, there's that element of 'this goes in without pinching or twisting but it does 'pop' in and it compresses and etc. Except these f**kers just don't. I noped out of this initially and asked friend if it felt right. He ended up putting full force into the injector port and even if it went in, we were almost certain it would end up inside the engine, or split, or god knows what because these f**kers just did not fit. Old photo, and old engine, but they were being forced in like this: And obviously smart us goes to install these at like 9pm. We eventually give up and decide to re-use an o-ring from an old injector for fitting purposes. It works perfectly. We take it out again and measure the two o-rings against one another, and they ARE slightly different, one is out by about ~1mm in diameter. (15.1 vs 13.7 or something like that). We try the first 4 new injectors and they all have the same problem. These injectors didn't have the o-rings pre-installed on them, so maybe we got the wrong box? (though it all came in one sealed box, just seperated inside) We install the first 4 injectors using the 4 least shitty re-used o-rings. So at this stage we have 4 new injectors in, and nothing on the passenger side bank. I jokingly say "Lets see if the other 4 injectors fit on the other side of the engine" and they fit perfectly. wtf intensifies, so we take one of the injectors out of the passenger side bank and put this mysteriously working injector onto the driver side and lo and behold, it fits perfectly. Quite confused at this point we're like "did we get 2 different sizes of o-rings?" and decide to put the 4 "working, new, o-ring new injectors" on the driver side as they're much harder to get to, and use the old o-ringed ones on the passenger side, so I can replace the o-rings later. Some of the O-rings were 'acceptableish' anyway. And now I only needed 4, instead of 8. When time comes to do the passenger side, I idly put the new o-rings back on to the new injectors, as to not get confused... and go to fit them, to replicate previous "these don't f**king fit"... ... and they fit perfectly.. They all fit perfectly. The new o-rings looked visually different to the old ones (old ones have a stripe and are 15y old) In complete disbelief we remove all 8 new injectors, all 8 new o-rings and measure them all and they are all 14.2ish mm. Perfect. Seal a little nicer than OEM. And all completely fit perfectly. Maximum Gregging it.

I don't know the characteristics of that wire, seems to be an issue with conversions (as an OEM RB25 car ostensibly has it wired to the dash). Plenty of "My alternator not charging, turns out it was the bulb in the dash that did it? weird" threads. Try the resistor and give it a go? I don't have a RB25 anymore so I can't comment further!

Going by google and SAU results, this is the wire that goes to the dash bulb. Your car says it is a 240SX. See this thread: http://forums.240sxone.com/showthread.php?t=8702

It may be the alternator trigger wire? Given you've already replaced the alternator... I only found out all about trigger wires (or the alternator exciter wire) when I was troubleshooting the exact opposite of this - My alternator always being on. When the car was off!

So all's well that ends well, yes? I had my VASS Cert and Eng Cert and had a legal V8 Skyline. I shall sum up the things that went wrong between then and, well, now. First of all, the aircon compressor shat itself and had to be fixed. The fix was quite simply a new AC compressor which set me back about $1800 all told given the labor to install, gas, etc. Turns out "Hey man that AC compressor could have absolutely blown its seals/dried out if it was sitting on a junkyard motor for years" is pretty sensible advice. So hey, maybe the power steering is next to go..... I also noticed that while tuning the car (and on the dyno) that my VE map seemed a little richer than most, but I wasn't exactly making more power than most, less actually but I couldn't find where I had got a correction wrong in order to figure out what was going on. I finally got my wideband to talk to HPTuners, and noticed what was recorded in HPTuners didn't agree with the gauge (the gauge showed a leaner value which is what I had been tuning against.) Innovate also have their own app which shows the AFR on a serial line, seperate to what the wideband controller sends to the gauge which is a 0-5v output based on the reading of it, where the Serial line is unfiltered or unconverted. The Innovate software agreed with HPTuners, which was also positive. I read online that people fixed this by putting a voltage offset in the software for the controller to fix the gauge, and it was caused by grounding the gauge to something different to the wideband generally. However in my case it was the same ground, because my gauge literally plugs into the wideband controller and has no seperate ground to even take... I asked Innovate about this because who wants to tune a car with the AFR values out? But go no reply once I told them it was literally plugged into the controller.... Anyway before: And after: (i.e running an offset to the gauge) Obviously then I had to retune the whole car, because it was too rich everywhere. But I enjoy that shit. Strangely, my original battery lasted 18 months on concrete but finally didn't seem to hold charge, so I replaced the battery. I then noticed this new battery also didn't seem to hold charge which made me forgive my original battery that I had since thrown away. Some sleuthing later I found this (with car off) Cool. I also found that an ODB2 Dongle (like say, my HPTuners MVPI2) is not intended to be left plugged in all the time because it will flatten your battery. However the above picture wasn't that. I eventually traced it to the... horn... fuse? After many days thinking and "Surely it can't be the horn, it's got to be something else" I took the car for a drive with the horn fuse taken out, only to notice (Thanks awesome head unit btw!) that my battery voltage was apparently 10.8 Volts. While driving around. Driving around fine, by the way, apparently LS's can just drive around and start at under 11 volts and you'd never know. I jumped out of the car and used my multimeter to check the battery and yep, 10.8 volts with the car running, so it wasn't just the head unit. I put the fuse back in to the horn and suddenly 13.9v. So my horn was wired into my Alternator. I then vaguely remembered something being said about VY vs VZ alternators and exciter wires and maybe the loom I had was for the type of alternator I did not have? or something along those lines... In any case, surgery happened this was wired into the ignition, and now no more flatto batto. So even though my accusump wasn't installed yet (I didn't want to have to explain it to the engineer) its TIME TO HIT THE TRACK. Accomodation booked, track day booked, Winton test and tune, today is finally the day, until the car cuts out. And it keeps cutting out, blowing the main ECU fuse, and taking all my gauges with it. The day before. After being entirely fine for thousands of kilometers and tests. I finish work for theday, run home, say "I have 3 hours to fix this/find this" because Winton is a 3 hour drive away and have to check in at the Airbnb at a non-insane hour. Rewire all the gauges in the car, center console entirely disassembled. No problems found. GF brings pizza to save time while I tinker with stuff. Eventually unable to find. Have to give up. f**k this stupid Skyline Take this car instead: It handles the drive to Winton fine. It does 76 hotlaps on the track day itself fine, over 5000rpm the entire day, hard braking every turn. It was 1s off the pace of the 34 (in my noobie hands) before the conversion. It drives for hours enjoying country victorian sights the day after fine, it drives home fine. (you should buy it) I realise later it was done on OEM suspension too. It sets the bar very high for "You must be pretty f**king good to drive, Skyline, or you're going in the f**king bin) I get home, look for wiring anywhere else it could possibly be and find this: Ahhhhh. My wideband was uh, a bit melty on the exhaust. Fixed the exposed wire, re-routed it behind heat shielding, and problem has not re-occurred, and checked a few times since. Ready for the (next?) Trackday!

Yep usually a decent dyno operator will key in the diff ratio of the car on the dyno, the screenshot you've used.... doesn't... for reasons unknown. 1600 would/should be 6576rpm if that car had a diff ratio of 4.11. Reading the output of either dyno should be very similar once that's taken into account.

I had a R34 GT NA+T initially and went through this. You have the same rear end (stub axles included) as a S15. Your suspension for a R34 GT Non-Turbo is the same as a R33 GTST

Keep in mind the GT has a S15 rear end, so if you do get a diff, you want one that suits a S15. In regards to Nismo, I kept digging - It seems the one I have is a 1.5 way, but acts like a 2 way. This is because when people say "1.5 way" Nismo diffs they actually mean the Nismo 1 way diff. Or you could get a S15 Helical. General consensus is stay away from Viscous, and you'd have a hard time finding one for a S15 anyway.

They also do a 400 cell one. I can smell fuel with 2x100 cells. I can still smell fuel with 2x100 cells and 2x400 cells. But the 400's make a noticable difference. Most people seem to be pretty happy with the 100's though!

It was really really helpful that I had the actual car on the dyno which shows a real time output of pollution (which is kinda cool, and tbh critical for this kind of thing). I ended up raising the idle and playing with ignition timing to effectively make the car idle smoother. Smoother, less choppy, more complete burn, more better-er. The initial result was something like 0.72g/km (triple the limit) and watching the data showed it was only the portions of the test spent idling that was causing any issue at all.

Warning: Much Text So at this stage my engine bay looked like this! Stock as, officer! Way back when I started this adventure, I looked into all the VSI 14 documentation as well as what was advised on the Vicroads's website in regards to engine changes. I attached the PDF from the website on the 25th of July 2019, EngineChange 25-07-2019.pdf but the relevant snip is below. A signed declaration from the registered operator you say... OR a VASS instead, and VASS Certified vehicles need no inspection... I actually called Vicroads to confirm this prior to starting, and took the name of the person (and their supervisor) that this was indeed the state of things. So I went to vicroads with my signed declaration, a printout of the website, the records of the calls I made (prior to starting, like a good citizen) as well as VSI information to prove that my modifications were less than the requirements of that document (i.e less severe) and should therefore be a good candidate for 'equivalent in power, mass and emissions standard' and can be installed without any structural modifications. I also had the emissions standards printed out, and lo and behold the LS1 is more EPA friendly than the RB, RB engines were never sold in Australia, so paying $4000 for a standard RB25Neo for a very cheap sedan is not practical when there's commodores everywhere, right? It should be noted that these terms used in the document on the vicroads website were not defined anywhere, at all, in any form. I went to Vicroads with this information and oh boy did I ruin someone's day showing up with this, because they were utterly caught out by this loophole and had no ground to stand on to reject it. In the end after talking to maybe 3-4 supervisors I had them all agree that while I met all the requirements for having the engine change pass, according to their website, they just flat out refused to do it "just because". I got all of their names down and for the sake of "All Vicroads should be the same" I went to another Vicroads, with the same information. However my experience at the 2nd Vicroads was very different, whereas they actually took the information they provided and effectively passed the car. Their attitude was "Well this doesn't seem like its normal, but all the numbers and documentation match up, make sense, and have been provided, so OK" Except when he went to hit "save" on the record, he found that the car's information had been locked by the first Vicroads Supervisor on Supervisor on Supervisor on Supervisor. I got names and details of everyone involved a second time, and decided to 'enquire' as to this discrepancy and all the time and effort I went through following their rules, attempting to do the right thing, given I also had records of calling before I started anything, and asked for a definition, again. The long and short of it from there, was again through many emails, the tone changed from "You're right, but no" to start talking about different rules all of a sudden and it would need a VASS. I went to take another screenshot of the Vicroads website, which had been updated as a direct result of my attempt to get this change through and the car registered. EngineChange 26-07-2019.pdf Again, snip below: TLDR: They changed the rules from 3 ways to swap an engine, to 2. Consolidating what used to be Option 1 and 2, and making a new "Change of engine scenario two" which basically says if its not OEM it needs VASS. I noticed this when they started referring to "Option 3" initially then started exclusively referring to "Option 2" in the same chain of emails. I thought about taking it to the Ombudsman because it was so very clear they changed the rules specifically due to me, who was following their rules prior to it and just didn't want to pass it to close a loophole they clearly didn't like because... performance car? Who knows... But then thought technically this would just be for the engine details anyway. There's kinda other things that would be covered by VASS codes I wanted to pass (Suspension, Gearbox, Brakes, etc) Luckily, before I turned a tool I also looked into what the VASS Engineers have to sign against, in my case NCOP3, 4, 5 attached as below (Engine, Transmission, Brakes) NCOP3_Section_LA_Engine_01jan2011_v3.pdf NCOP4_Section_LB_Tranmission_V2.0_01Jan_2011.pdf NCOP5_Section_LG_Brakes_V2_01Jan2011.pdf I was curious about suspension but it never applied. My Suspension passed a general RWC and the requirements for it which always boggled me when people never got RWC's for coilovers. The rules are obvious and easy to verify/test against. All of the NCOP for suspension is way beyond the scope of a set of coils. However given my car was now literally flagged by Vicroads I didn't want to take the risk of driving it anywhere. I consulted my new friend who did the weighing of the car for me as he is also a VASS engineering consultant. Effectively you bring the car to him, and he will Liase with the VASS people for you, or make changes to your car to make it pass. Luckily for me as I knew what the requirements were, the only thing he actually had to change was the mounting of 1 coilpack by bending a bracket 3mm. The dodgy speedo WOULD pass (it read from 40kmh.. and the test was at 40kmh but he knew the VASS certifier would definitely 'not like it') so this is where I got the Dakota box instead of the Jaycar literal piece of shit. There was however, one problem. Emissions. In code LA1 you have to prove that the emissions of the car have to be the same as the car the engine originally came out of. ECU's are outright banned. Not a problem, factory ECU. All emissions equipment (evap canisters etc must work) No problem, factory ECU/Factory devices. Fuel injectors must be OEM. No problem, factory injectors. Extractors/Manifolds are considered an emissions device. My stock airbox is stock for a RB25, not a LS1. f**k. Victoria (and NSW) mandate an IM240 emissions test in a scenario like this where things can still pass (i.e ECU no, Injectors also no, etc). Other, sensible states use an equivalency law (i.e a VASS engineer saying 'yeah she'll be right) OR the five gas test/idle test which is MUCH more relaxed. VIC and NSW require an IM240 which is what OEM Manufacturers must pass to sell cars in Australia. To boot, there were no IM240 testers in victoria since McLeod closed. A company called ABMARC have a contract with Deakin University to rent out their Vehicle test lab to do an IM240 test. This costs ~$2000. There are no refunds if you fail. You have to book 3 months in advance. Which is why no-one in VIC is getting full EPA's - The government cannot reasonably supply a test to confirm it. NSW however, do have a testing lab. I called them, and their IM240 testing facility meets the requirements for VASS - which are outlined. The test in NSW also costs $0. They needed to know a day in advance. I called and booked 2 appointments back to back, incase I got very close and could maybe change something? They were more than happy and awesome on the phone to deal with. So... off I went to satisfy the requirements for Vic law, I ended up doing to do a test.... outside of Victoria... to the "NSWroads" facility in Botany, Sydney. Armed with 4 cat converters and a laptop you best believe I f**king did a lot of road tuning up there for stop start conditions! Also, my car managed to get pretty reasonable fuel economy (better than a VY SS claimed figure..) This was also when I found out that my Aircon compressor absolutely shit itself so I had a nice 20 hour drive ahead of me with no Aircon. This later cost me about ~1500 to fix with a new compressor, new gas, and all that labor to get to the fking thing. But car drives great, I arrive in Syd with no other issues whatsoever. A few Sydney people notice the idle in traffic and point fingers and thumbs up - something I hadn't experienced in Vic. So the IM240 test itself is done on a low speed dyno, to some VERY stringent testing which lasts 240 seconds, hence the name. This is the trace they have to follow, and there are markers on the test which show shift to X gear here, etc. Because they were super nice, they let me inside .. with a laptop! to have a look and watch the test but asked I not take video or photos (other than the photos outside). I read from most that they usually shut the doors and you have to wait outside, but they invited me in and I got to see the whole thing. Here are the emissions standards that need to be satisfied: The eagle eyes would note that for NON R34's (i.e R33 and R32) the standards are actually a lot easier than a R34 is, at least Pre-97. So almost 4-7x less in terms of "easier!" depending on what is being measured. So the car goes on, and I have a heartbeat of approximately 300BPM for 240 seconds straight. And the car... fails. Specifically it fails the HC3 part which is for effectively raw/unburned fuel. The others are more than fine. What could possibly be causing that, unburned fuel? Oh I dunno, how about that aftermarket choppy cam when a lot of the test is spent idling or driving super slow? It should be noted that if it was a R33, it would have passed. The guys there graciously gave me a chance to hook up a laptop and tweak the tune to see if I could fix it on the fly, which took about 45 minutes of my 30 minute bookings (its 15 min per booking slot), and the result is as below: When he turned around and gave me the thumbs up following the above test I legit teared up a bit. Right on the limit is OK. Every year after my specific limits have a 'less than' element added to it, so that's how close it was! Pro tip for those at home: A cat converter can only convert gas... not unburnt fuel. As you can see from my results the actual GAS part was well under. The drive home was a lot of relief. Even if I didn't have aircon working. I took this to my VASS consultant friend and the whole thing got signed off on by the director of Abmarc, who didn't seem upset that I chose not to do the emissions testing through them after all.. Note to self, coilovers ARE legal in Victoria. Also note: So are Varex as they pass under the 90db limit. They can't be controllable by the driver, but they can be controlled by an ECU. Did I mention Varex have an ODB2 controller as well so you can program that? They just have to open in the last 33% of the rev range as the test is done at 2/3rd of maximum RPM. And this is how all those luxury bimodal exhausts pass the test, you can officially be at 200DB if you want, 1rpm higher than the specified test RPM for that engine. The more you know.. The actual testers (especially in NSW!) are pretty keen to get things passed. They know the laws right and know when they see things that pass them. Then, armed with my VASS Cert and Plate I went back to the original Vicroads and was oh so very, very satisfied to have the same inspectors have to re-inspect the car with 0 visible changes since the first time and pass it.

As a 34 sedan owner, they fit fine (at least the whiteline ones do). Keep in mind if you have a NA, you need to actually get the D brackets that the OEM swaybar uses, because they are not included with a kit, it is implied you have em (which you won't if you have a N/a originally as they have no rear sway bar stock)

For what its worth, it is an extremely easy fix: Just changing some numbers here and hitting save basically.