Kinkstaah

You will also have bigger issues than merely this, your auto is going to be in a world of hurt unless you wired the standalone TCU into the loom of the GTT ECU that you have. To get this working you will need to teach yourself wiring and tuning if you haven't already, or be prepared to spend on hundreds of hours of someone else's labor as they figure it out while not wanting to 😛

I mean, while this is all true and all, I managed to get my V8 conversion fully engineered, and when doing so they must pass all elements of the car. It's like a super defect + RWC all in one. It has aftermarket seats (OEM from a different car) and home made adapters (to adapt the seat to the rails)... which were/are Recaro rails for a R34. This may not get the scrutiny you're worrying about, unless you've got bright blue/red seats or something that needs a HANS device or is a full fixed back style seat. I've used a harness with mine, and I wasn't going anywhere. All I can assume is that the engineers just figured they were stock seats. But yeah. Don't cheap out on seats, harnesses, hans, safety. You may feel like a pillock with all the gear but if you're going home to a family at the end of the day no-one can really say you're being silly about it.

Unfortunately (fortunately?) I sold the diff on the weekend. To a guy putting a BMW V10 into a R33. Ambitious but buyer is very cluey.. How about those Nismo stickers on those um Inovit wheels FWIW, I had 9.5 +27 in the past, I was able to get 265's at the front and back, but it requires some very aggressive rolling and the clearances are razor thin. But it can be done if you want more grip in the future!

I am just jealous of how nice the car actually looks. The OEM Plastic lip/skirt/pods really de-uglify the 34 sedan. (Without obliterating ground clearance either) What a neat setup overall. Keep doing what you're doing.

I have 265 on the front, but not on those rims. I can't imagine you will have a problem with 235/40 on front and 265/35 on the rear. Worst case guards may need a slight roll depending on height and camber settings for your car.

A mix of two different oils, 10-50 (Penrite racing) because I aim to give it a belting at the track and wasn't sure how hot it'd get with an oil cooler (just over 100C is the answer!). I put 10-40 racing from penrite in the accusump/topup area because LS and 'its probably fine'. The manual calls for 0-30 but I still get shaky actually putting that in. Blame the RB in me who likes 10-60 when things get hot!

So.... somethings have happened since August, Covid, and the likes for me down in melbourne. Also bought, and sold a house while not being able to leave the house, so that's fun. So here's some updates. In short, the car sat outside and had a lot of spiders. I cleaned it, then went into all the nooks and crannies with a can of RAID and found all the spiders I had missed. "Good" times when about 8-10 of the medium sinister looking crawlies came out of said nooks and crannies, quite upset. Sound deadening/heat insulation I sold my Renault recently, so immediately had to use this as the Daily, and while it's 'okay' as a daily, I also immediately contacted www.carbuilders.com.au and decided to spend quite a lot of money on their stuff to soundproof/heat insulate the interior of this car, including under the bonnet. This is booked in for Dec 7. I have always secretly enjoyed their stuff with their videos on how to make a car more livable, the fact they do infact offer to fit their stuff was really good! (I thought). So yay!. Stay tuned for my novel on the difference *that* makes if you're dumb enough to add a set of long headers directly infront of the driver, then directly under the drivers seat. Accusump I also finally got the Accusump fitted. Sometimes things just work out well. Good karma, and all that! Connected that up, pressurized the accusump, no leaks (that I know of... yet) and hunky dory! Just don't drive into anything, and we'll all be fine. Also noticed due to COVID the car liked to... overheat when driving around with Aircon on now. Joy. Given it didn't do this last summer, and it wasn't even that hot (30C), and literally nothing had changed, I was a bit stumped by this. The only variable was the fact my battery was 'white' instead of 'green' and I could only imagine that maybe the alternator isn't doing enough work at low RPM and the battery can't keep up or something? I don't know how thermos work, clearly. Anyway after a decent (1hr drive) this no longer happened, but I was unsatisfied with my 13.5V at idle. Alternator I went out and bought this -> One Wire Alternator #8242NB - TUFF STUFF Performance Accessories It is a 175 amp LS1 alternator. I buy it, guy is like "This is for a Camaro..." but I buy it anyway cause dumb. I find out shortly after that the Commodore Alternator I have has an entirely different 2 pin plug, instead of the new one which wants a 4 pin plug. I am dismayed and start the google process, to find that that "4 pin plug" can be setup with a variety of American cars with 1, 2, 3, or even 4 pins of that plug in use, which is different amongst the various cars this alternator plug comes with. I am dismayed more. I then find a mysterious loom plug that looks like it will fit directly into the alternator, with *2* wires in said plug. I find out the maker of the loom is a USA company, and it looks like this new loom was optioned for this style of alternator, and my loom in my car was modified/added to to work with the Australian alternator. Kudos to BP Performance for replying to me at 10PM USA time. Turns out you can get those looms with an option for the Bosch/Commodore alternator, but for some reason that wasn't chosen for my loom, not entirely sure why, at all. I even went back to the supplier of said loom and mentioned it, as they were helping me with 'what did you do to my loom exactly' questions. Turns out I could infact, just plug the alternator in, and now I have 14.4V at idle, and 175amps of juice, now that it is correctly being driven by the ECU. Turns out non ECU driven Alternators only put out ... 13.8v maximum in failsafe mode. OH WELL. Then driving the car home to my new house, I was seeing how close I could park to its new parking spot in the carport, as you do. Then when I was happy with it, I just took my foot off the clutch with the car running, in gear. I am god damned buffoon: I cannot have nice things. Please send F's in chat and/or sympathetic paint/dent fixers in Melbourne.

Buy my LSD if you have a GTT. Buy a S15 Diff if you have a N/A. Don't do anything else.

But um, the lockdown late was *last* weekend (the 14-15th!) In any case, this road actually gets better/worth driving on from Gembrook through to Launching Place, then through the Reefton Spur or Mt Donna Buang. C'mon, get amungst it!

There is no hooking with any road tyre. This is what drag radials are for. Don't stress. ANY road tyre will spin up with a launch of anything over ... 1800rpm...

Anything in Australia is a copy of something from Japan. subscribed for any information myself, lol. Especially if anyone makes a lip kit/side skirt extensions for this thing. I've never found any.

The important thing is you had fun. You may not know it yet but the fun may have been 99% of the fun you would have had in a much faster car. Tyres and brakes that give up well before you even get going are NOT fun. Over heating is NOT fun. It sounds like you avoided those problems which is a great day in any book!

A lot of nismo "1.5" ways are actually 1 ways. My 1.5 way is decidedly closer to a 2 way, in perception and practice. There's no such thing as a 1.5 way anyway, just differing ramp angles of 2 way, but noone is advertising any diffs as "45/45, 45/67.75 or 45/90" diffs or anything like that.

---double post

Adding ethanol to 91 reduces the price. Thus, Ethanol is cheaper than ULP 91 fuel. by a significant margin too. Add more than 10% of it though, and it is somehow massively more expensive. For that reason alone they can get f**ked. I am glad I'm on 98.

Consider a transmission cooler (and fan, when idling.. especially as a daily!) and/or transmission cooler gauge. I was surprised as to how warm it all got when idling away.

Should have just bought my R34 Nismo 1.5 way.

That is a great way to empty a catch can. A really good way. Now I want a tap on mine as I too have a fitting on the bottom... lol

Yes but your PCV system is ... the LS1 system. It should have the LS6 system. That's the thing, provided that VXII's really do have the LS6 system from the factory. VY onwards obviously do. I'm suprised you have the LS1 system as it was suppppooosssed to be VT only, but then again the internet can be wrong!

Yeah, the info I have is that ONLY the VT and VX Series 1 had the LS1 style. Yours is a VXII yeah? (mine has the LS6 system)

.... is that can hooked up right? The later LS have a PCV that come from just behind throttle blade, and one from the valley cover. This is literally the PCV hose system stock. Catch can is somewhere in the middle. I was under the impression the 'earlier' LS1 is VT only. Source: Pulled my intake apart many times chasing oil leaks. Trust me when I say your catch can WILL have oil in it when hooked up correctly

Tyres provide a generally static force against the ground. They will hold X nm of torque. You'll probably find that the M5 has much more than X torque in more locations in the rev range (probably earlier on).

It is 4.111 (or 4.083 if it originally came for an auto) which has.. 0.5kmh difference between the two in any one gear.

Yep, can also confirm this now does stuff! (with a warning things are being indexed)

I tend to browse the forum using this feature, now it shows that there is no unread content. There is of course, unread content, and the "Mark site read" marks the unread content as read - But the 'unread content' never brings up any results when I use it initially. This has only happened since the update.