Kinkstaah

This is how I figure it made no difference, closing the varex for example richens up the AFR significantly (12.9 to 11.0) as revs climb for obvious reasons, and about half a point at idle actually. (14.7 to like 14.3ish). Swapping the cats (plural, I have two) with 2x 3in straight pipes resulted in an 0.0 AFR change at the same road with same conditions, I made a day of it specifically testing this exact thing. And the cats fit better. I wish I had flex joins in my exhaust, vbands are great but... there is 0 compliance with them.

It is interesting how the tests are run, my car was well worse on idle instead of driving around, given the WA test is an idle test mileage may vary. My stupid V8 cam was a huge detriment though. (unburned fuel is bad for emissions...) I would have gone ceramic if I had've seen them prior though, because its probably better than steel ones, otherwise why would every OEM use ceramics instead of steel ones. But now that I'm passed I'm happy they're steel, so who knows, worked out in the end. Either one will remove the smell though!

Mine did... for the same year/motor combination that OP has 😛 through the IM240 in NSW which is far and beyond more stringent than the 5 gas test WA does. The kicker for me was it was the only one I could find that was a 3in 400 cell cat, and its worth mentioning I have two of them, one in each bank, as I have a 2x 3in exhaust into a 3.5in. ... and they are also behind 100 cell cats, which are further up the bank! Just sayin they do work for the make/model that this thread is relevant for, but I probably would have paid the extra for the racecraft ones, but trying to get information on them other than "Cell" and "Euro" spec was impossible at the time.

I was able to buy some 5in body 400 cell cats (x2) which had 3in pipe either side. I can confirm they work and may be cheaper, I want to say they were just under $200 each. Venom Exhaust Weld in high Flow stainless 3" 76mm 400 cell Cat Catalytic Converter (mrcperformance.com.au) They do remove smell, because I have 'cat delete pipes' that can be swapped in with vbands. These delete pipes sit in a box, because.. they do not seem to impact performance at all, and fix the smell, and .. well, the cats make the car sound better lol.

Excuse me your gearbox/transmission issue is supposed to take 6 months (and counting) like mine.

I say no, but something people don't really look into is what problems they are trying to fix by forging a motor. What are these problems? Were people getting stock motors, and melting pistons, or having pistons fail, and rods bend? (in 2021?) No? If they aren't - What good is stronger pistons and rods? Forged motors aren't failing because the forged pieces fail, and they aren't really upgrades for failing bits anyway. There's a enormous thread on oil control to keep bearings alive, but people much prefer to forge a motor and put the money there instead of an accusump or a drysump for some reason. Can't really do much about blocks cracking when IT becomes the weakest link. 320kw is the happy spot for a RB that gets used outside of Instagram, and other parts of the car work well there, clutches, diffs, subframes, the ability to grip the road, turbo lag etc. When your car is driving around daily, it is making about ~50rkw, so you can go and get 300,000km of driving at ~50kw from a 500kw motor if you never actually use the power, so km/chronological time since rebuild isn't even that accurate a factor if you don't consider how its being used. Keep in mind that GT3 engine manufacturers rate their 500hp (at the crank) engines for Mclaren, Mercedes, Nissan, Audi, Lambo etc for about 12,000km of race use. And these are VERY expensive, VERY modern, VERY engineered motors with HIGH displacement made specifically for continued high power use. In a category where lasting longer than your competition has a massive competitive edge. Instagram performance is not real world performance.

[old man hat on] You're potentially adding complication here for little benefit. Consider the piping in the bay and the convoluted path it needs to get back to the throttle. Consider the issues/cost going FFP and visual legalities too, you'll need to do one or the other but plenty of people do route piping to the stock throttle body location. It's really sensible to let the PCV continue doing what it was designed to do. There's two elements of it (by "fixing" it), venting excess crankcase pressure, and controlling oil from going back into the intake. Keep in mind you will be adding something to manage (i.e emptying the can) but it won't draw nearly as much oil if it's not connected to some kind of suction point. PCV and oil control are really track mods - What do you really plan on doing with the car, are you modifying systems that even need improvement? Have you identified where the stock PCV is holding you back, and how, and how it needs to be changed to suit your use? The simplest way is to put a can 'between' the PCV system hoses so it intercepts the intake, then proceed to worry if the amount of caught oil is normal Spoiler: It's been going into your motor the entire time with minimal issues 😛 Same story with the AFM. I've never heard anything other than "It kinda works most of the time" with AFM's post Z32 (the card style, and R35 style upgrades) Most people go a MAP based ECU at that the point that a Z32 is truly no longer usable.

Okay okay, I stand corrected, they look pretty baloony on a 1979 E21 320i! They look fine as an OEM tyre on an OEM car designed for this (and not for stock 13's)!

Your maths and GTSBoy's maths is right. I just have PTSD about those tyres fitting on another car. Given we're talking about skylines and skyline stock rims on a skyline and stock skyline rolling diamater this is all hunky dory good to go. Still look like 4 drag tyres though 😛

The one I was using is the Blitz. There's sometimes a difference between academic gains and actual real world gains you can feel. Do a dyno before and after and see, but a larger core IS better and having less bends IS better, but what you have will suit what you need well enough too. It's up to you to determine if your $ is worth ... however much gain this truly is for however you truly use the car, and how truly stock you want it to look and so on

Yes, I've made 420+ through an auto with a stall converter, so close to 500 with a damn manual. I know the losses of the converter because I went back to the same dyno with a manual later and plotted the differences. My intake air temp on the track at a track day was something like 35C on a 28C day. My engine was not unopened and I was running 24psi on E85. Others have noted differences by changing the intercooler but reports are thin on the ground when someone only changes the intercooler. There's many many reasons 300kw is a good number to stop at for sanity reasons (grip, clutch drivability, lag, reliability in general). If you're near there already, then leave the car alone and enjoy driving the damn thing instead of pulling it apart and paying tens of thousands of dollars.

Just remember 225/50/R16 tyres have MASSIVE sidewalls. I have a mate with a BMW who ended up having to go to AD08R because they make a 225/45/R16 which was way more suitable. Good tyre though, have had them everywhere, and good for anything on the road and journeyman track days!

Sorry I had to re-google. Comp cams make one, not Crow, I knew it was some cam company.. There's also various copies out there, or other versions Billet Belt Tensioner for GM LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6 and LS7 (compcams.com) I bought this one on the advice of the VASS engineer who suggested I should get one, can confirm it installs easy, works perfect, seems good etc etc.

Is the no aircon dependent on the pulley for the charger? Or just because its a pain in the ass and not required. From what I read about the Capa kits they dont mention losing aircon for the commodores, so I assume their solution continues keeping stock AC... One of the things I got heavily recommended was the Crow solid tensioner kit, to avoid throwing belts when you back off throttle at high RPM, instead of the spring loaded one. Something to look into before it becomes a problem for dorifto!

Any idea which one you ended up going with? I've had that page open for several years, figured there would be some compromise (I need AC, psteer, street legality lol) I'm making the assumption you've got enough skills to put a LS in, adapting an intercooler kit to fit it would be no worries (at that point) Oh well, enjoy the road less travelled (relative to me!)

There is nothing new under the sun. Build threads have a fair bit of activity for general "This is my plan/this is what I am doing" sort of things. Gonna have to ask you - Is that the CAPA charger kit? Asking for a friend. A friend is me, who has a LS in a R34 and figured it 'should' fit. Clearly does.

Sorry no - It's been sold, I didn't close the thread off due to bumping it from oblivion seemed un-necessary. It has gone to a new home, namely a madman who is putting a E60 V10 into a R33.

The rear ratio for AT is 4.08 vs 4.111 in Manual. This is utterly un-noticable. (about 1kmh per gear shorter/longer). Do you really have a R34 GTT standard? If any of the setup is to suit a N/A in the rear end, you'll have different axles to suit. If it isn't that - For some reason Nismo have two different part numbers for the R34, one for series 1 (98-2000) and one for series 2 (2000-2001) The one you posted is series2. I am not sure what the differences actually are (or if it is even relevant.) But it is a different part number.

I was worried about it too, I didn't want it to feel like it was some kind of FULL RACE CAR STUPIDNESS when I was going out to get milk. But even at its most severe, it really wasn't. If anything it felt more 'positive' and wasn't too extreme. Fully manualizing it is the most cost effective option, if you can get clutch packs and having the thing lock for fuel economy (lol) that's probably the most important thing to do. If you're using a Nistune, you probably won't need the ECU, the OEM programming of the thing was actually close to what the TCM had programmed into it. If I had've read the wiring diagram to begin with instead of trusting the mechanics before DTM.. I would have got the Nistune actually working with the GTT ECU in the GT N/A car and never needed Haltechs and the PCS 😛

Mine was the B, the B is what is in the R34 GTT. I'm not 100% certain what the A is actually in. I've read the "A" is the non triptronic version, but I've also read the "A" version is also triptronic in the non turbo auto skylines. They have a triptronic auto but it is not the same internally. I sent a melted/destroyed to hell MV built auto which was originally the GT Non Turbo auto to DTM. I also sent a stock GTT auto to DTM and asked them to build it. They said the Turbo one was substantially different to the N/A variant, so not a fault of MV that it melted itself, it just had a lot less of a base to work with. There was also the option of fully manualizing it, which is simpler, and cheaper, and more direct - However I quite liked the idea of the steering wheel buttons working, and the ability to "Just put it in D" with a lazy, smooth mode, then an extremely aggressive mode in "Manual" mode with the wheel buttons. The latter setup requires the TCU to drive it - When they said it was doable I pulled the trigger on doing it that way, and retained the stock shifter, shifter buttons, etc which was nice. (none of this is better than being manual, though, if it's an option, do it) The shifts with the max line pressure the modified body could provide weren't actually that savage, more of a little firm bump than being kicked around etc. It took the power and lasted ages (and I sold it in the end, as a kit!) but keep in mind the total cost was in the 5-10k region all up, in a roll in, "hmmm how are we gonna do this", and drive out scenario. As always, decide what you want to do with the car, honestly before doing anything. The stock ECU running the gearbox actually does a pretty decent job in regard to requesting line pressure in a R34. The benefit of aftermaket control was/is a) Using a standalone ecu, you could consider changing your engine to run Nistune etc. b) The ability to shift less harsh than the OEM ECU would shift for you once you massively uprate the physical gearbox capacities.

The kit that I used specifically only mentioned the A too, but the B was no issue. Maybe contact DTM in Geelong (they're closer than MV) and they may be able to assist/recommend something.

Yeah I could not find ANYTHING, at ALL for the RE401B on anything, at all. It wasn't listed for the TCM PCS range either, but it didn't need a lot of smarts, and the TCU that we got was a universal, truly standalone one. In the end it just wanted speedo, tach, and the inputs on when to change gears (pretty much). You could set up the auto shifting and setup a full manual mode. You could change line pressures and such if you really wanted to, but it was hooked up with pretty much max pressure all the time. It had full control of the box and you could configure things like shift lockouts. However you did have to blip the throttle when shifting down - going from 2nd to 1st at 60+kmh would lock up the rears if you didn't blip it. Mine was originally installed by DTM Autos in Geelong - I only really got my hands dirty with it when we re-shelled the car, and I had a GTT to work with instead of the original GT N/A car, so all the wiring for the TCU had to be worked out again! That said, it was a lot simpler than we thought, and we had it going in a couple of hours actually, with just a friend and me on the nature strip of all places.

I used a TCM PCS 2000, which has since been superseded by other TCU's that that company makes. Honestly the gearbox itself (in R34 GTT form) has something like... 8? Wires going to it. It was remarkably not-that-complicated once you have it all out infront of you and a fair understanding of what wire goes where (i.e have the service manual handy). More modern engine ECU's can also control an automatic gearbox. These would actually be my pick because you can then have the engine ECU know about shifting and perform additional functions. I don't know off the top of my head which ECU's manage a motor AND an additional auto gearbox but I would wager the higher end known options do (i.e haltech, link etc)

This is just a really good example of how you don't necessarily need a billion hp on the internet to have fun with a car on road and track. See also: Noone really minds if someone is 2s slower because they don't quite have a billion hp, but you will also find that replacing a 330 engine is faster, easier, and much less frequent than old mate on insta with a billion hp.

Even if you do that, still bad ratios! (I have no idea what people were thinking here)