Kinkstaah

I should immediately state that I have (had?.. sort of have?) a GTT. This is probably different in some way. In my car the ECUs involved appear to be seperate. SURELY people have put aftermarket ECU's in GTR's and retained AWD and ABS though... Sometimes there's no results about specific problems because there are no problems

My car has a LS1 in it. It still has ABS. I didn't need to remove anything, pretty sure it cares very little about the car ECU, as I've also previously had a haltech ECU as well and not run into this.

You can put huge tyres on the back with custom wheels, there's a ton of room on the inside of the R34 rear to pick up some seriously large rubber. I think I measured I had something like 40mm extra room to play with when I stuck my head under there and measured. (and I have 275's back there already) Would need a rim with a custom offset to make use of this though. Fronts you can run 255 without scrubbing. I run 265's up the front (265/35/18) and didn't have any scrubbing until I took it to the race track. Even then if I got creative with a heat gun I could have moulded it further away/clippied it closer to the body if I had've cared a great deal. (I care a little deal) Funny enough if you have wide enough guards a 285/30/18 (or 295!) will avoid liners better than a 275/35/18. But that's future talk.

I wouldn't assume that either given other things about it. This is brave, but its also good that it's intended to be saved!

I looked into this for the LS! It looks like there's an adaptor plate for the LS, and the gearbox itself.... ... and nothing else. No easy to find dimensions/sizes of things, no electronics, Noone sells the rest of the 'kit' to make it actually 'work'. But I wish they did >.>

For real, I am currently shopping for a very expensive gearbox while my clutch is out. (???? cars...) Buy once, cry once, then enjoy the benefit. That said is there actually any benefit with a Samsonas for your intended use 😛

I sent a message to Daleo, but it seems he is now extinct. The BNK010 kit (front and rear+links for 33/34RWD) - Does anyone have any .... any photos of this overlaid with a stock bar? I know they fit a stock car. I used to own them, but for some reason I was ultra concerned with my LS swap. However after using the stock bars, they f**king suck. And I seem to have a LOT of clearance when I have the car up on the hoist. Way more than the ... 1? 2? mm of difference between the OEM bar and the 24mm bar. At least in terms of bar thickness. There's a lot of clearance now. I can't see why I was possibly concerned in the past. Does anyone know if these fit pretty much exactly the same 'bends' as the OEM one, but are XYZmm thicker? Can anyone define XYZ in regards to the 24mm bar on a R34 GTT front? (the rear has not changed at all, so is not of concern

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Aren't the CD009 ratios hyper short? They'd be really great with a 7th for cruising (in my application) Whats with the hardcore build then if it's not going to go to the track? Booooooo!

Can I interest you in a T56? Better ratios also I want to sell mine. Colour looks really good, and glad to see you didn't give up on it so fast!

Ahhh, technically the way in Victoria is you are supposed to Engage the engineer (VASS) before you register the car. This is why you can't engineer only a specific mod, the entire car as a whole must pass with all modifications done to it. You then have a VASS cert and a RWC and you can then register your modified car. I did my conversion and had the registered, but off the road while the V8 went into it. I did have to drive it to Sydney to get the Emissions test for Victoria (lol - IM240) so during that solitary drive if I got defected well, it'd be moved around on a trailer most likely after that. But that didn't happen, so here I am. I am very jealous of the more lax emission laws in WA, and as a bonus you can get it done inside your own state!

Sorry - What I meant to say by 'wrong' is how far your mods are outside of the guidelines as to what can be certified. Not sure what you mean about 'pre approval to modify'. Sounds different to here. But yes, it makes sense to have another runabout to at least own while the engineering is going on if the time it takes is paramount. Given you can get a cheap runaround cheaper than a Turbo kit, if you're serious about engineering a car it shouldn't be too bad.

Depends heavily on what you did 'wrong'. Usually these guidelines are fairly straightfoward to lay out. You may just need people to sign off things if you meet the criteria initially. I found it a pretty simple process in one of (the?) hardest state to get engineering done. BUT I knew what the guidelines/rules were before I started any work!

^-- looked into the above for my LS, but there's no real kits on the market yet, the info is pretty light on the ground sadly. I'm sure it'll become a thing soon, though.

So eventually I made it to the track day! Got my tyres rotated, my brakes on.. Went to setup the gopro and realised I forgot all of it, and spent 6 hours the night before attempting to remember which was fun Decide don't really need it all to have fun at the track day, and get going. I had recently supposedly fixed my PCV system, but I had the dipstick getting blown out now which was fun I did a few sessions, but was 5s slower a lap than last time, which was fun Then this happened! Then the tow truck broke down on the 10 minute drive home which was fun. After researching gearboxes between then and now, it finally came out yesterday. It appears the only way to pull this gearbox out is disconnect it from the bellhousing and take it out that way, with much swearing I am told. However this is what was found. fun.

I mean you have to be pretty specialized to build a car around *1* hot lap. 99.9% of people have a street/track hybrid that they would ideally like to belt the shit out of for the 'short' time of a 20 minute session, 5-6 times a day, once every month. That would be the ideal. I don't think any pads/stock hardware alone manage to do that. They weren't really designed to do that either, to be fair.

Thank you for posting a pic of Sparco R100's - I was thinking of putting those in. What rails did you use? There's an ebay mob selling a kit, but I never got that far. I wanted the black leather ones 😛 How do they work/fit/comfort wise? Looks like enough clearance.

Thankyou for that last update, I went measuring based off your previous post (cause it looks great) and I was thinking the differential between the fronts and rears was a bit weird for it to fit so nicely. Looks awesome dude

Pretty much all of them have thermostatic plates for above 80C or so (which is technically a bit low) If you actually get your oil on the street above 120C then a bigger concern is not dying/going to jail. LS yes RB no Get a gauge to find out how hot your oil is/how hot it gets before buying something to address an issue which may or may not exist. Generally speaking, if you want an oil cooler you want it for the track, so fit the biggest one you can physically fit and move everything else out the way to fit it. Any other use generally requires no oil cooling.

If you haven't already, def throw this on FB/Carsales. I suspect 25 is on the low side and if hype is real, could get much more. could

The thing is, the air temp sensor gets hot in traffic. Upwards of 70C. It took a good 15-20 minutes of highway cruising (!) to get it back down to about 35C. This is on a 25C day. The stock ECU absolutely will pull fuel, timing, and knock. The air actually entering the engine is not 70C. Map sensored cars really soak bad, at least they think they are soaking bad. v8 cars are way easier to manage traction that turbo cars. You won't need a throttle stop. I need way less traction control intervention with the v8 than I ever did in any of the turbo setups.

You are right though, the rear end of current mercs with its downward sloping general depresso is the most old man design element I've seen recently.

Another "Because I had issues" Do you have a means of logging your IAT after doing that? Heatsoak on the sensor is a big problem with OTR's, yet they also add power. In my application it wasn't really an option and I had to buy a faster reacting IAT sensor from the USA as the GM one takes minutes to cool down to the air temp it's actually sensing.

That is very nice indeed. I hope it doesn't need to be removed. That would be sucky.

Easier to just put a motor in? https://www.pavtek.com.au/index.php/ls1-gen-iii-packages-mainmenu-21/235-ls1-383-efi-long-engine-with-cnc-heads-562-hp 383 means less cam, but you have an auto anyway. Why not 6.3L? No intake problems. Save yourself a few thousand too. Not the only places that will build up a motor too. Quite a few joints around that will just supply you with a built ready to go LS1 with heads/cam/stroker that you can throw in and away you go. Def cheaper than doing it incrementally with cam, then heads, then intake, or boost etc. Boost is always going to be less reliable. And you have things like joiners, belt, IAT problems, fitment issues and casual illegal extra items in the engine bay. I've pretty much sworn off ever going boost for those reasons. That said... pretty different application!