Kinkstaah

It would appear noone wants to do a skid. This is now a 1.5 way. It's always been a 1.5 way, because anything between a full 45 degree 2 way, and a 90 degree 1 way, is a "1.5" way though it could easily be referred to as a 1.2 way or 1.75way or 1.9way. If you have a 34 get a diff. Specifically this one.

I drove my car today for the first time since... May? March? Something like that. I cannot hear my exhaust. Opening or closing the Varex is a "Is this.. open or closed? I cannot tell" kind of deal. So at least you can enjoy your exhaust and not.. a myriad of other sounds I am yet to figure out how to resolve. Maybe the Commo design is good for something after all!

I think a regular 180/200 treadwear tyre is sufficient for a 330i. You can drive it around town or in Nasho without feeling you are wasting the tyres either. Hankook RS4, 4 for the price of 3 atm. Do it. /thread

How much would the BMW have cost you if it did what the R33 did? (Sorry for BMW bashing)

I'm sorry, Robert Kubica drove the car on these tyres, and I'll have you find that a regular track day user is significantly better than Kubica. /s

Combine the two! Everyone seems to pay big dollars for shitty cars their parents wanted when they were growing up. This is the cycle of life. The GTR is significantly bettererer than any GT-ho, and equally as good a use of the dollars. not a good use, mind you

GTSBoy, remember a R34 NA has a S15 rear end and an open diff. The R34 GTT stuff is not plug and play with R33 gear. Of any kind. Even R34 turbo to R33 Turbo. Different ABS, wheel speed sensors, stub axles etc. It'll probably bolt together, but there's stuff that won't work (ABS, TC). You can make a R34 non turbo rear end and a S15 helical work though, as those are the same thing.

I appreciate that! Of course, while I can't see any rust that I'm aware of... you never know.... whats lurking.... [ominous music]

Yep. BRZ if you want to placate Subaru people. There's a reason there's 7.7 million of them per square km.

I legitimately had a nightmare last night about rust in my car due to this thread. Thanks.

This. Even when stock engines fail, I can't recall a single post in the last 10+ years here of "A rod let go" "A piston melted"

New Supra is overdelivering on what it says on the box. Go get some tyres and a tune, go run a 10? Cheaper than what it'd cost to do that in a Skyline...... or an old Supra ?

You'll find that with a RB at 2.5L, better on paper doesn't necessarily mean faster car on planet earth. The 3076 (or something 3076 sized, G series probably better) with proper support and proper manifold and gate is pretty much the sweet spot. Should feel really good!

While I tend to agree - The reason we like Corvettes is why Americans like Skylines... they don't have them. I think a C6 Z06 with a 7 liter V8 and a manual is pretty peak car. But over there they're 'common', and a boosty boi R34 is more rare and appealing as a result.

Probably a good idea to read the laws before embarking on any kind of engine swap. I did it out of curiosity and it states that Mod plates for engine mods are not approved for P plate vehicles. Buy 86. Enjoy life. Come back to a Turbo car later if need be. (probably won't need be)

What state are you in that allows an engine conversion but not a Turbo? Swapping a NA motor in is just as illegal as having a turbo, and 500 times more work. Be a smart P plater, and buy an 86. You could have a nice daily/street car, and a turbo car for the track with your [engine of choice] if you're really super keen.

Certain LS's do have issues with oil starvation, notoriously in long G left handers (like Winton has one of!). As soon as you go R comp or better (say, slicks in the above example) this is something you just have to be aware of. Gen4 LS's are by far the most notorious for this problem. So much so that GM ship the cars with Drysumps from OEM.. If you go to the track.. really just have to be aware of this no matter what motor you run. Like posted above, feels like an Accumulator on a RB (or any older motor) should be mod #1 before anything power related even begins. The only motors that seem to be "immune" to it (realistically less prone, not immune) are Renaults and MX5's somehow. Easy to find reports of race series using stock oil control for these motors.. Yet... I want to drive the problem prone one...

Once, I replaced parts on my project car with better parts. Unholy, I know. Alas, I do not repent.

Have you considered a true boat? With a true boat anchor up front? Sorry man. I feel you.

This is because the new ECU is not driving the gearbox, and your NA gearbox is being driven by the NA gearbox ecu. (which is not the part you changed)

The NB SP is very different to a SE. Buy the SE, it came from the factory, is cheaper and generally OEM is best vs what an AU tuning company did to a non turbo car in 2002. Applying mods in 2020 will give better results lol.

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/mazda/mx-5/se-badge/ They seem closer to the 15-20k mark? MX5 motors are stout and the OEM turbo will do 190kw. That said, there's a lot at that price point. Namely 370z or 86's.

subscribed (this will either be super easy or near impossible). Would have been much better, cheaper, and easier to put a VQ35 in and/or build/forge/boost that motor methinks.

This is a Garrett thread, but were people aware Garrett have also mentioned maximum shaft speeds the entire time? It's just that BW were more open about it. Everything ultimately has a limit. The G25 also has a speed sensor option as well... and I think it was just BW pioneering putting a sensor in there for people to use that lead to people being mindful of it and then viewing it as a limitation.. I'd personally pick a G25 purely for packaging, seriously. Heat and lines and shit is also a thing! This is a 400+ rwkw SR20. I mean you'd have to have a pretty damn good reason to argue for anything else than a G Series in a modified road car right now where you have to consider space at all, for any reason.

Cmon. This is due to people on SAU (and all JDM people) picking appropriately sized turbos for a 5 second pull and the best results on a dyno or the street. Garretts have historically been a little bit happier to take that abuse. Turbos sized for track use are always bigger than the above quote. EFR's are used on Indycars. EFR literally stands for Engineered For Racing!