Kinkstaah

As a 34 sedan owner, they fit fine (at least the whiteline ones do). Keep in mind if you have a NA, you need to actually get the D brackets that the OEM swaybar uses, because they are not included with a kit, it is implied you have em (which you won't if you have a N/a originally as they have no rear sway bar stock)

For what its worth, it is an extremely easy fix: Just changing some numbers here and hitting save basically.

Thats really what you want man.. Idle shake is cool and all until you have anyone in the car that doesn't think its great and it quickly becomes shitty. That cam looks the goods. Was the dyno run locked?

Its less choppy than mine. That said it probably drives right, and doesn't shake you and your passengers at idle in the seat (is kinda cool tho) and is the right cam! Which one did you go in the end?

The only thing I found from it (other than "I heard it was bad") was that it had the same bias as a Z32 BM57, which holds 50/50 split much longer (double) than a GTR one which splits to 60/40 much earlier. In other words, expect more rear bias with the HFM/Z32 BM57. Doubt anyone would notice it unless you tried both back to back in different cars though.

BEWARE I read bad things about the HFM one. I also found out that Z32 BM57's are NOT the same. The knee point on the Z32 one will lock your rears much longer before they start to engage the fronts. The GTR ones are the ones you want. There's a R34 and R33 version. What's the difference between those? I have NFI. I got the R33 GTR version and the clip does work on a R34. My R34 had nothing labelled on it's BMC, only a L6... which isn't L4 or L5!

I went from GTT brakes to an 8 pot KSport/D2/Attakd/Clone kit. I had similar symptoms to OP. I noticed that people who had GTR's who upgraded to the brakes I bought said they had no brake feel issues. I noticed that people who had GTR's who upgraded to Evo brakes and they said they had no brake feel issues. The BM57 was a night and day difference, much firmer. I got annoyed at it for many years. Just buy a BM57.

So the next step was aircon. I was tempted to go get the car engineered before I got aircon, but I assumed that once I had it, could drive it around legally, I wouldn't want to take it off the road to go and get aircon done. So the time was now. When holding a flaming turd in your hand, knowing you're about to unleash it on some poor business, its time to hit up google and find the person least likely to throw it back in your face and tell you to f**k off. So I ended up calling these folks here: https://www.melwideautoradiators.com.au/ Mainly to put this to the test: Their gallery shows a lot of cars that did not come from the factory with AC, and left there with AC. All I had to do was really use a different compressor than what the car came with, and some lines. Easy, right? I made my appointment, and drove the car there with a few photos and some discussion. In the past I always got some sneering shade when going places with a custom car, very much a 2nd class citizen treatment vs going in there with a coupe, or a GTR. However in v8 land, the tables are turned and people think it's cool for absolutely no reason. Which I'm all for. I got told it could be made to work easily, but it'd be an absolute pain in the ass and that he would definitely hate me by the time it was done. Good enough! I left the car there a couple weeks and the first part was super smooth. Lines and a new/moved condensor/combined receiver-drier got installed for space reasons, also my old stuff pretty garbage being old. John really knows his shit and made things as far away from others as possible. It got complicated later when trying to actually activate the system. I always thought aircons would 'stay' on so activating the system with a switch was fine, which i was OK with. this isn't so, and if the compressor is constantly on, the whole thing freezes solid in a matter of minutes. There's computers and thermostats and sensors involved toggling that compressor being on or not. Stock, the aircon logic is handled by the Nissan Engine ECU and not a body control module. That f**king Nissan ECU I finally got rid of out of my car for the last 10 years of it generally existing and being annoying. So I dug up my old ECU for their Auto elec guy to wire back in, complete with the Nissan pinout diagram and manual for the Aircon section so they could re-add it into the mix. But for AC it would be worth it. Wait a bit longer and to my suprise, providing all of the information, they found they could emulate the logic by using 'a series of relays' and the ECU wasn't required anymore at all. This was massively good. Can you see the aircon compressor in the last photo? I'm sure using a 15 year old gm AC Compressor is fine. Why replace it when it's accessible, naaah. Lets just see how it goes. Tested, working, excellent cold air - Time to start legal proceedings.

Pretty sure there is actually a Garrett S2 turbo, like all S2 stuff it is mind alteringly rare though. The TLDR is this isn't worth it, there is no easy fix, and the stock ECU is son of rajab and master of all. If you want to max out the stock setup to any real degree the ECU is the place to start, but unfortunately a combo of stock turbo, stock intercooler, stock injectors, stock fuel pump, stock exhaust, stock air intake, all of this is really not rated very much above stock power at all. And of course if you change it all, the sky is the limit. The GTR's can make more on stock gear because the stock [all of the above] is far more capable, but still behind any aftermarket offering in [all of the above] It's not worth doing basically - Car is worth more sold if there's a Viper in the garage lol.

*laughs in N/A V8* It is absolute bullshit though. My car has sat the entire quarantine period with half a tank of E85 in it though. I got dicked on Petrolspy where some asshole labelled it as $1.29. It was not $1.29 and in proper flex fuel fashion, I arrived with 0.05L left in the tank. Fkin pisses me off, if adding ethanol reduces the price of 91 when you add 10% of it, adding 85% of it apparently raises the price 200%. f**k.

I have read this, hello fellow 4 door person. It was nice to know my own foray into "I'll just do a few track days and just break everything, repeatedly" was not the only one, as I had many of the same problems until I said fk it, turbos can get f**ked, f**king flanges f**king manifolds f**king lines f**king heat f**king wiring f**king diffs f**king gearboxes f**king overheating f**king And then go do it all again

So now I had cool audio, an engine that ran, and a car that could drive around. However I was still rolling around on stock suspension. Prior to the build I was using a set of Sydneykid Bilsteins with Eibach ERS springs (ooh fancy), after a lot of consultation and SK's patience back many years prior. I was always super happy with them and they always rode and performed (to me) better than Shockworks, BC's, and Tien, pretty much any 34 I had ever been in. However after looking at the springs, I realised they had a 5kg front and 4kg rear. I later replaced them with an 8kg front and 6kg rear, which means I now have a lot of spring options. However that meant from my reading that I needed to get these shocks revalved to suit the new springs. I also was mindful that I have changed the weight of the car by putting a v8 into the fking thing. If GTR's have different rates and dampers to a GTT, then surely a V8 GTT would need some kind of different suspension to a regular GTT. That was my logic anyway. Also, one of them was doing this: However back then, was the only shocks I had. Mildly annoying and must be destroyed. So I could either buy new coilovers, or I guess reach out to Bilstein to revalve these to suit? If they even offered that, which I assumed would be $$$$$$$$$$$$$$. I reached out to a couple of very highly regarded suspension places and outlined what I wanted/what they would suggest re: Damper rates, spring rates, given what i had done with the car and what I wanted to do with it, and what handling characteristics I wanted. I got a mixture of "I dunno lol" and "Please buy our top of the range item with no regard to any of the customization you requested" So I asked Bilstein Australia on FB of all places and they were massively f**king helpful to my suprise. Like REALLY helpful. The information I found on the net (which Bilstein agreed with) was that moving engine weight around wouldn't actually have much to do with regard to valving the shocks, but it couldn't hurt. Though they agreed that GTR and GTT would have different valving, so perhaps it is better to weigh them... etc. Perhaps noone really knows. So in any case I found an VASS engineer consultant who had vehicle weights and I drove the thing onto them to see just how much the car weighed. I also asked at that time as to the legality of coilovers. I already knew they were okay, but you never know. In any case, he definitely gave the OK for them as long as not too low, retains x% of original shock travel (30% from oem etc) This was full weight, full tank of fuel, with spare, with all the audio in it, with my heavy as f**k BMW E30 M3 wheels and CST Cast 18x9 rims with 265 tyres, and big brakes, with me not in the car. To get the car revalved super accurately I sent bilstein a version of these photos with me in the car (I weigh 86kg so you can do the maths, the cross weight was 49.75% with me in the car which to me seems pretty fkin great though!) Carfolio.com says the weight of a r34 GTT sedan is 1430kg. I really don't know how accurate that is. Either that, or the LS is heavier than people claim it to be, or the RB is lighter than people claim it to be, etc. Yes I should have gone on a weighbridge BEFORE, I know. I went to a weighbridge recently to confirm the numbers above and I got the same result. That said, there were some results in his book of R34 GTR's and r33 GTR's etc weighing up to 1690KG (!) in true road form, with some stripped out track boys being 1300ish too. In any case, data in hand I sent my shocks to Bilstein. They said it'd take 2 weeks but it took about 10 days. I got a call from Peter at Sydney Shocks to have a chat about what I wanted and how etc. My car was always nervous under heavy braking on the track, (Part of the reason i changed the spring rates), and I really, really wanted it to be as solid as possible and more or less get the valving right for the true weight of the car, and where the weight is. I want to be able to really nail the brake pedal and start turning in to a corner and just know what the car is going to actually fkin do. I also mentioned I had to use OEM front and rear sway/antiroll bars. They hmmmm'ed and took that on board, and a couple days later they said they had revalved them - and did I want helper springs on the front as well as the rear? I was like "Yep sure, you're the expert if you say so!" They sent me this shock dyno result when they sent the shocks back to me. I also can't really read a shock dyno. Peter said he added a LOT of rebound especially to the rear and the graph has lines that seem to insinuate that, but he also seemed really happy and enthusiastic so that was great too. Very different to other suspension companies who were less enthused. Obviously I had great fun throwing the shocks back in to the car and setting heights, (making VERY sure the lowest point of the exhaust was 101mm from the ground) and getting an alignment. Took it for a drive and it was apparent from leaving the driveway how much better the thing was, partly of course because it was no longer on Koni/OEM suspension, but the level of composure is crazy good. The helper springs on the front and the rear take a little getting used to, because on any kind of aggressive turn you get an initial amount of body roll, which feels like 'squat' but it's.. sideways squat. I understand the theory behind it but it is disconcerting when you're used to not having that. But once you trust it and know that it's really just loading up the outside tyres it definitely works. It then dawned on me.... it handles like a MX5! They have very similar characteristics as to how the weight of the body moves around, how you play with the movement and let it get settled, etc. It drives like a MX5 with much more everything, more weight, more power, more grip, more heavy duty...."ness". Obviously it's not as nimble as a MX5, I mean only the driving style is eerily similar. But ultimately, it was massively more predictable than it was before and a definite benefit to the V8 is how 'well packaged' the whole thing feels. There's absolutely no way some off the shelf solution would have been as well done. And it cost way less than a new set of shocks. So sometimes asking around is a bit more beneficial than going on FB and asking "hey m8 what shocks does everyone run on their [car]" Summer moving up fast, time to get AC sorted, and better to do that before the thing gets engineered, incase I have to change... something, and would not want to change things after they're legal..

So, all freshly tuned the next cab off the rank was a decent head unit. During this build I noticed a lot of these f**kers start appearing: And while texting while driving is yeah pretty f**ked up, I really don't care if people text while at a red light because who gives a shit, give them a beep and move on. Doing it while moving though is legit shit. Do I get annoyed at all these cameras appearing where cars are usually stopped anyway instead of on parts of roads where people are moving... yes. Anyway. This is pretty shit for a guy who doesn't text while driving, but uses music while driving and changes songs by reaching over and shaking a phone or holding volume up on said phone, not while looking at phone. And because 99% of the time in a track ready modded car is basically sitting staring at tail lights listening to music, I figured this problem was on the list of things that were mildly annoying and should be destroyed. This is my boot, with subwoofer and amp. The amp actually came with the car when I bought it, but no sub because it had been stolen out of the boot, but the amp hadn't because Westside Melbourne. Since then I have some nifty straps and plugs to remove it in about 15 seconds for track days. I also have Audison Prima APK 165 speakers and tweeters https://www.audison.eu/products/apk-165/ I do not know what any of this shit means, because i got the speakers when I went to a trusted audio place and said "Bang for buck but actually kinda good thanks" the result is nice and crisp and clear and honestly pretty great. The current fine in Victoria for touching your phone while doing anything is $455 and 4 demerit points. The following head unit is cheaper than $455 so I ended up purchasing it. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HIZPO-7-Android-8-0-2Din-Car-Stereo-8Core-RAM-4GB-Radio-GPS-DAB-Wifi-DVR-4G-Cam/231960266999 If you click the link you will see this thing comes with many options. It is basically a full android tablet that fits in a double DIN. I ended up getting the DAB box for digital radio (cause why not) the dashcam (cause why not), the reverse cam (cause why not), the USB/3G Modem (cause why not), the external mic for phone calls (cause why not), but not the TPMS module because I don't have those in a skyline and neither do you. All in all it cost me less than a $455 fine. Armed with one of these: And a lot of time reserved for dodgy wiring, it was time to get to work. Obligatory shot of where things plugged in at the back: And that was it. It all worked perfectly with no issues whatsoever, and every little addon worked entirely fine with literally no problems at all. The only thing to wire in was the reverse light. Seriously. It took like 20 minutes total and me and friends had a good 10 free hours spare right after that, all confused. We had to make a tiny cut in the surround, where it sits behind the AC controls (its not visible) I used FCC launcher to make the 'desktop'. With ODB2 from the LS, Torque pro is great, I can get any dash that the ECU even has on there at the track, or the keen eyes see I can do TrackAddict for laptimes and Telemetry right from the head unit. And of course, I can do all of this without copping a $455 fine. Pro tip for anyone in the future, get Neutralizer, which is an android app. In a car with a loud rumbly exhaust it is a lifesaver, think of it as an equalizer that removes unwanted background sound by tuning around it. It is remarkably effective and when I drove up to Sydney at 110kmh, turning up the music entirely cancels out the sound of the exhaust, and not in a "lol it is too loud to hear anything else" kind of thing. Now that the car is rolling around, it was time to touch base with Bilstein Australia who had previously agreed to revalve my shocks. But before I did that, I had to weigh this thing....

Luckily the T56 has near identical ratios to a R33 GTST Gearbox that it replaced. As far as speed per gear goes it is 1: 73.5 2: 110.0 3: 150.6 4: 195.8 5: 264.6 6: 391.1 (lol) Cruising at 100kmh is about ~1600rpm. So 1st gear is a bit longer than previously, which does help a bit with grip. I get TC interference really only on a launch, 0-20kmh ish. However if I turn it off and stand on the throttle at all, it will spin tyres up from a standstill (I,e not hook) even if I just go WOT from idle. The Racelogic manages however much slip I dial into it, 20% is a decent amount for having that lovely sorta wheel spin takeoff you see all the journos do when testing cars lol. However once the car is moving, no amount of aggressive throttle causes wheelspin, it is really tame compared to the turbo setup, it does the exact opposite of wanting to kill you, and this behaviour is actually the most surprising/welcoming thing about the whole conversion. You apply the torque directly with your foot and it never overpowers the tyres or does anything unexpected, just feels strong, and linear and repeatable. I have done a cheeky skid just to see what it is like and it is very obvious immediately even to a complete drift n00b why V8's end up in drift cars for the above reason. (and 2 way diffs).

The background looks very USA/Canadian. Hard to know for sure unless you see it in person. If I was looking would I go see that car in person to learn more? Yes

The Michelin 4s are a great tyre because they are 300tw. They actually supposedly have a different blend of rubber on the outside edge of the tyre, so the inside is a 300TW tyre and the outside is approaching R comp. Because you're never really on the outside edge of the tyre unless you are really pushing it, you get long life and good grip. However, they only really come in 19's and above. ;/

The CNC head ported options are a send your heads in, and receive ported heads back. Fully aftermarket bolt on heads are a setup and more expensive, and probably make... ~10kw more power. Though it looks like Lewisengines do offer a pre-built version even if you dont send them a set of heads to use. I used this option for my RB sump... they sent a baffled one, so then I sent my OEM sump to them $200 credit.... and never received it. so.... But yes, the fact you can go and buy prebuilt heads off the shelf, or a 6.3L bottom end with cam, ready to go at like 10 different places on the net is pretty gnarly. All for less than it costs to rebuild a RB tbh. EG: https://www.lsxperformanceparts.com.au/ls-383ci-ls1-stroker-engine-short-engine-n-a-11-5-1/ https://www.pavtek.com.au/index.php/vm-front-page/in-stock-long-engines/in-stock-ls-engines/l383l402hr-detail

So at this point I had a super illegal car sitting at home, with a few things still needed to be sorted out Namely: 1) Android head unit, I wanted something I could operate without touching my phone, and a head unit is less than a fine. 2) Air conditioning still needed to be plumbed in, I had the compressor bolted to the block, and the rest of the skyline system, but no lines attached, so started asking around for that. 3) I needed a tune. I was pretty confident road tuning the car as the car actually is pretty fkin basic compared to previous tunes with the turbo. The HPTuners software is great, VCM logger is awesome, and effectively having a 2D load map is really simple. I really got to know how different it is using an OEM ecu as a base vs something like a Haltech.. the OEM base has tables for EVERYTHING and is much more complex with tables referencing other tables referencing other tables referencing other tables vs the Haltech. But it was fun to learn. I had set conservative timing, pretty rich on the fuel side of things as V8's can run leaner and more or less just drove it around and had lots of fun loading it up in hills to uh, run that new engine in, and hey the stock suspension didn't even feel that bad!.... though the 2 way was still a bit of a clunky mess. Was I paranoid about every single car being a police vehicle oh you bet I was. But in the end, I was satisfied enough that I went to effectively run it up on the dyno to confirm my tuning efforts weren't entirely wrong and the engine wasn't pinging itself to death and of course, to see how much power it made and whether more could be eked out of it. Here's the dyno sheet. The grey line was the first run and the orange line was after the tune, which really was just leaning it out a little (from 12.0 to 12.8) Adding timing did nothing, removing timing also did nothing, no knock detected, no nothing, actually. It was all pretty much... pretty much the same. The issue really is that there is a restriction with the intake and heads, you can see the manifold pressure dropping after about 5000RPM. This cam is supposed to be power between "3000-6600rpm+" according to the spec sheet. You can see that power is certainly not peaking at 6600rpm. @mlr be aware! In my case I was losing about 7kpa which is basically 7% power. A FAST 102MM intake and TB cost around $2000 to maybe address this. A set of heads costs $5000ish. Would I spend $7000 for .. ~30? rwkw? I mean I have in the past but I'm not going to........ yet.... But yes a little short of the fabled 300kw/400whp, which Americans seem to get no problem whatsoever with a cam this size in a cam-only build. The thing gets up and boogies fine from low RPM at least compared to a turbo car, and traction is limited down low anyway so it didn't really seem like an issue - the 4.11 rear gears help a lot. However to make myself sad, I have roughly interposed the LS graph over my old Borg Warner graph. (the red line was 9psi) So no it's not as fast, but there's something about it that is immensely... satisfying about it. In short, ----^ Next steps Suspension Head unit Aircon Engineering

You are going to run into the exact same problem I did re: Cams and the rest of the system being able to supply the air the cam wants. Be aware! If you are going to keep stock heads (and not be super obsessive about checking springs, etc etc, want something that will be put in and forget) then the LSV is the smart choice. The "power" category of that chart does require additional mods to unlock the said power. Drivability is easier in an auto which you have on your side. Cam surge is just shit to live with. Power under the curve is still a thing in V8 land.

Right now that engine bay looks really clean, not much you can really remove from there ?

If it instantly appeared with no stress, and cost $0, you'd be 3k ahead. But I've been down this path and it doesn't cost $0, and doesn't create 0 stress. Realistically is a stock R34 GTT worth 20K? No not really, you can buy plenty of better (stock) cars for that money. At some point "sensible" is not applicable to these things and its all $ -> Personal, subjective enjoyment

The difference between the (very very few) on carsales looks to be about 10K. Will 10K cover a gearbox/ECU/Engine swap/tune? I reckon not, not really, and there's other issues (diff, sensors, also the hassle of doing this). I say buy that cleanish 20K R34 GTT https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1999-nissan-skyline-25gt-t-r34-manual/SSE-AD-6532178/?Cr=2 Then sell R34 GT off to a P plater. Future you would be happier.

So the most impatient wait for any car part went on here, for a Varex muffler that came from Sparesbox honestly pretty cheap and pretty fast. I previously had 2x Magnaflow 3.5in mufflers, one as a mid and one as a rear. This was quiet enough for a Turbo setup but clearly not anymore. Because I am a 5 year old, I asked that we made the rear muffler detachable so I could swap the Varex out with the Magnaflow one for the track because.... 5 year old.... Also, the tip isn't stock. The guys there made a new one and welded it onto the varex to make it neat and sit flush with the rear bumper. I never asked them to do this, they just..... did it out of the kindness of their hearts. You may remember from page 1 (probably) that once upon a time my wiring looked like this: ….when setting up my Auto transmission ECU to work correctly, and use the wheel and shifters to manually change gears. The good news is I learned that the switches on both sides of the wheel are shared (one up, one down) and that they are momentary switches. These buttons remained unused for years, things like antilag etc could have been done other ways. Boost up/down I never used, cause I did boost by gear and had racelogic for traction control. I considered replacing the steering wheel for a manual one for awhile, but NO, finally there was a use again, and this occurred! video-1560494721.mp4 Jesus christ what a shit quality video, but it was revolutionary at the time! At this point in the story I had something resembling an actual car that I could drive, and was monumentally happy, and 90% worried something would break, even though it was left idling for quite some time, AFR's seemed fine, ECU was talking to Laptop and ODB2, nothing was leaking, but always concerned as to how good a quality map was actually loaded in there to begin with. So lets just say the drive home was part really awesome and part extremely stressful, paying wild attention to every gauge, as well as any light whatsoever as I was pretty confident I was driving the most illegal car in Victoria home... but combined with the unknown tune (seemed pretty decent actually) and stock suspension in the car it wasn't really able to be pushed, but I was glad to get it home in the end. Next step, run in the engine, tune it properly/learn how the fkin ECU works and start plans to get the suspension back in/swapped and start the path of talking to Engineers and hopefully finding out that all that work done wasn't just a complete waste of time and money... And because the above video is so shit, I recorded another one today because Coronavirus. One thing I have learned about the V8 is how loud the engine is, as opposed to the exhaust, but it still makes a pretty decent difference, and can see/feel the restriction it has as the AFR's go from 12.8 to about 10.8 under full load. The biggest difference was going to the Varex muffler itself, as far as Mufflers go, even when fully open it does a decent job of muffling compared to the Magnaflow one.

My only fear is that if the engine is REALLY being pushed, as in 130-150+C oil temps, it may be better off having 10-60 in there than 10-40. There is sorta some logic in going with a thicker oil if you do know it's gonna get hot. That said, there's not a lot of in between where someone will take that as an option before they actually get an oil cooler and get oil temps under control. You should find that with enough cooling it'll be hard to really get up into the 130-150C range anymore, and thus the oil choice tends to be 10-40 or 50 if you really want to go ham/rebuilt engine with more clearances. Realistically though, still don't think there's been a engine failure on this forum that someone can actually claim was bad oil/wrong oil, at least not in the realm of "10-40 or 10-60"?

^--- a very good point. A while ago I updated to an 8 pot/356mm kit. I could never get the fronts to feel like they engaged right, or fully, it felt very squirrelly on hard brakes... especially at the track, where I wanted the brake upgrade for. My rear brake pad usage was considerably more than others, who reported a ratio of 1:3 and I got at best 1:1 front/rear pad changes. I then changed from the R34 GTT BMC to a BM57 BMC from a R33 GTR. The front feel is dramatically different and the car is definitely no longer rear braking. You can do the maths on piston size but it is another thing to consider in regards to a braking system.